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1200 home built trike project  Rating:  Rating  
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 Posted: Tue Nov 17th, 2009 04:48 pm 41st Post
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JBz
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I guess what im trying to say is Im not sure if all the suspension travel  of the driveline goes through the rear part of the front u joint  or if some of it actually takes place in the final drive housing where the rear part of  the driveshaft  rides. lets say your rear shocks as on a bike has 3 inches of travel.  If you put it in a 1 1/2  of the driveshaft in the rear part of the front u joint and load the bike it will travel forward in the rear part of the front u joint on a 1200 or 1500.. Now with a longer rear pivot point after a severe  bump and rebound will the 1 1/2 stay  in  the front u joint or bind  as now your rear shocks though still at 3 inches of travel like before but your pivoting point is  back further  and the rear part of the stock driveshaft is no longer encapsulated into the tube of the original final drive. Certainly not trying to confuse you but just a thought as i really dont know how much the splines travel through the rear part of the front u joint  as compared to actual swingarm and shock  travel. The splines might even travel less with the longer pivot point . I  imagine  if it worked fine on the other one you  are alright .Seeing as how you have to add to the stock driveshaft anyway and if you had room a splined coupler with a grease zerk might be something to consider if you needed more travel.  When you get it done id be interested in knowing how far the splines  travel through the front u joint  in comparison to  full shock travel. Thanks   JB



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2003 yamaha vstar 1100 classic 2004 honda rebel 250 {2}1983 aspencades + 83 Interstate 82 Aspencade <2>77 gl 1000 1981 Interstate <2> 75gl1000s 76 Gl1000
 Posted: Tue Nov 17th, 2009 04:55 pm 42nd Post
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skoto1
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me too. i'll take the rubber cover back some and load it with a couple people and see. only way i'll know and then go from there.



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just do it and ask questions later. if you never start you'll never finish.

PGR # 190570
cc permit
gl 1988 1500 trike sold
2003 flhtuci
gl 1986 1200 trike sold
gl 1984 1200 trike sold
first bike cb 160 honda
to many to list in between
 Posted: Tue Nov 17th, 2009 06:26 pm 43rd Post
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JBz
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I imagine you could just mark your driveline a few inches back from the new opening and put the suspenion through its travels  by deflating and inflating your shocks and a little weight and maybe a floorjack for full up. More curious than anything as to how busy the front u joint actually is . Of course your shock pressure will change that quite a bit Lookin Good Skoto. JB

Last edited on Tue Nov 17th, 2009 06:36 pm by JBz



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2003 yamaha vstar 1100 classic 2004 honda rebel 250 {2}1983 aspencades + 83 Interstate 82 Aspencade <2>77 gl 1000 1981 Interstate <2> 75gl1000s 76 Gl1000
 Posted: Tue Nov 17th, 2009 11:00 pm 44th Post
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skoto1
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didn't get my shaft today i did get one but it was wrong. will have to go again in the morning.  :(

Last edited on Wed Nov 18th, 2009 03:02 am by skoto1



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just do it and ask questions later. if you never start you'll never finish.

PGR # 190570
cc permit
gl 1988 1500 trike sold
2003 flhtuci
gl 1986 1200 trike sold
gl 1984 1200 trike sold
first bike cb 160 honda
to many to list in between
 Posted: Wed Nov 18th, 2009 08:20 pm 45th Post
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skoto1
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 new drive shaft this time.

 while looking through the local scrap yard i found the perfect driveshaft for the 1200 trike conversion. you don't need the adapters anymore as this one will except the honda shaft perfectly. i believe it's the front shaft from a ford f150 4x4.

Attachment: driveshafts.jpg (Downloaded 573 times)

Last edited on Wed Nov 18th, 2009 08:23 pm by skoto1



____________________
just do it and ask questions later. if you never start you'll never finish.

PGR # 190570
cc permit
gl 1988 1500 trike sold
2003 flhtuci
gl 1986 1200 trike sold
gl 1984 1200 trike sold
first bike cb 160 honda
to many to list in between
 Posted: Wed Nov 18th, 2009 08:26 pm 46th Post
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skoto1
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really tight fit. used a flat piece of steel and a pair of vice grips to hold the steel. vibration really hurt the first time i hit it. tube in a vise and pounded it in.

measured from the same place from around the yoke end of the ford shaft to the end of the honda shaft. perfect and i didn't even have to try.
ready to weld.

Attachment: driveshaft closeup ready to weld.jpg (Downloaded 568 times)

Last edited on Wed Nov 18th, 2009 09:01 pm by skoto1



____________________
just do it and ask questions later. if you never start you'll never finish.

PGR # 190570
cc permit
gl 1988 1500 trike sold
2003 flhtuci
gl 1986 1200 trike sold
gl 1984 1200 trike sold
first bike cb 160 honda
to many to list in between
 Posted: Wed Nov 18th, 2009 08:28 pm 47th Post
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skoto1
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welded and painted and ready to install. pretty quick job. 20 mins.

Attachment: ds closeup ready to install.jpg (Downloaded 567 times)

Last edited on Wed Nov 18th, 2009 08:29 pm by skoto1



____________________
just do it and ask questions later. if you never start you'll never finish.

PGR # 190570
cc permit
gl 1988 1500 trike sold
2003 flhtuci
gl 1986 1200 trike sold
gl 1984 1200 trike sold
first bike cb 160 honda
to many to list in between
 Posted: Wed Nov 18th, 2009 08:29 pm 48th Post
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skoto1
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alrighty then. lets ride this pig.

like i said before the only problem i can see on this install is that you have to unbolt the rearend and back it up some to remove the drive shaft. but again if you grease it reg it should last as long as the hondas.

i could have left the whole honda driveshaft tube on it if i knew i was going to find this driveshaft it will slip up in the tube nice.

jb i could see no in or out movement at all when i loaded and unloaded the bike. up and down only. no in and out movement none that i could see anyway.


how about i leave the centerstand on it. what do you think??:D maybe not.

 

got to get the brakes all hooked up and then on to the hard stuff. the body. has anybody on here drilled your rotors. just think it looks cool.


Attachment: driveshaft in.jpg (Downloaded 568 times)

Last edited on Wed Nov 18th, 2009 08:46 pm by skoto1



____________________
just do it and ask questions later. if you never start you'll never finish.

PGR # 190570
cc permit
gl 1988 1500 trike sold
2003 flhtuci
gl 1986 1200 trike sold
gl 1984 1200 trike sold
first bike cb 160 honda
to many to list in between
 Posted: Thu Nov 19th, 2009 05:13 am 49th Post
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skoto1
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i actually got it to rock up on the centerstand and either the front tire will be off the ground or the rear will clear if you put a little pressure on the handel bars. may just leave it on.



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just do it and ask questions later. if you never start you'll never finish.

PGR # 190570
cc permit
gl 1988 1500 trike sold
2003 flhtuci
gl 1986 1200 trike sold
gl 1984 1200 trike sold
first bike cb 160 honda
to many to list in between
 Posted: Fri Nov 20th, 2009 01:55 pm 50th Post
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lionelgo50
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It looks like the Driveshaft was perfect. Great job, now for the bodywork.



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Dave
Ride Safe and Ride Often, Keep the Shiny Side up and Many Happy Miles and Smiles.

"In God We Trust" All Others Must pay Cash!!!

Current Goldwing 2010 Gl1800 Trike

Other Rides

1985 Goldwing Aspencade Blue - Sold
2006 Harley Davidson Sportster - Sold
2006 Goldwing Navi - Sold
2007 Honda Rebel 250cc
2007 Honda 110cc
1985 1200cc Goldwing Aspencade Beige
1994 1500cc Goldwing Interstate Black
2010 1800cc Goldwing Trike Red

 Posted: Fri Nov 20th, 2009 11:55 pm 51st Post
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skoto1
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rear brakes pretty much done just need to tie them down. want get to start the body until next week.

Attachment: rear brakes done.jpg (Downloaded 535 times)

Last edited on Sat Nov 21st, 2009 02:44 am by skoto1



____________________
just do it and ask questions later. if you never start you'll never finish.

PGR # 190570
cc permit
gl 1988 1500 trike sold
2003 flhtuci
gl 1986 1200 trike sold
gl 1984 1200 trike sold
first bike cb 160 honda
to many to list in between
 Posted: Sat Nov 21st, 2009 02:23 am 52nd Post
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ridersteve
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just do it and ask questions later. if you never start you'll never finish.

Yeap.

 Posted: Sat Nov 21st, 2009 06:46 am 53rd Post
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skoto1
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since i have so much extra space where the single rear tire was i'm thinking of using  a car battery in the place of the smaller motorcycle battery. i'm thinking it will hold up better and can get some more amps out of it and more storage. what does everyone think on the car battery idea?:?

Last edited on Sat Nov 21st, 2009 06:47 am by skoto1



____________________
just do it and ask questions later. if you never start you'll never finish.

PGR # 190570
cc permit
gl 1988 1500 trike sold
2003 flhtuci
gl 1986 1200 trike sold
gl 1984 1200 trike sold
first bike cb 160 honda
to many to list in between
 Posted: Sat Nov 21st, 2009 11:32 pm 54th Post
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AZgl1500
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I don't think you want that much extra weight. Just go with an Odyssey PC-680

PC 680 Specs:
  • 680 cranking amps for 5 seconds
  • 595 cranking amps for 10 seconds
  • 525 cranking amps for 20 seconds
  • 17 amp hours
  • Short circuit current over 1800A
  • 25 minute reserve capacity with 25amp load

More than enough.

Odyssey PC680





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John
 Posted: Sun Nov 22nd, 2009 01:11 am 55th Post
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skoto1
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wow now that's a hot battery. may just do that.:waving:.

Last edited on Sun Nov 22nd, 2009 01:12 am by skoto1



____________________
just do it and ask questions later. if you never start you'll never finish.

PGR # 190570
cc permit
gl 1988 1500 trike sold
2003 flhtuci
gl 1986 1200 trike sold
gl 1984 1200 trike sold
first bike cb 160 honda
to many to list in between
 Posted: Sun Nov 22nd, 2009 09:34 pm 56th Post
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jims_retired
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Hello Skoto1,

I am in the process of triking my Gl1200 interstate.. I couldn't believe it when I ran across your article, how close some of our design choices are. I presently have a 1996 mustang rear axle, mine is the 7.5 2.73.. I am at present getting ready to purchase rims and tires to get started as soon as I finish the carb overhaul. (not as luck as you).. I am thinking about 25" dia. tires..

Thanks for blazing the trail,

 



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 Posted: Sun Nov 22nd, 2009 10:08 pm 57th Post
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skoto1
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that should work good. bring yours close to stock gear. my first trike was a 2.73 but i couldn't find one this time. and i was ready to get started. you going to use the stock swing arm as i did or make your own? good luck. it is fun i have really enjoyed these conversions and i'm looking forward to more unless the lord sees fit to do something else with me. go for it.



____________________
just do it and ask questions later. if you never start you'll never finish.

PGR # 190570
cc permit
gl 1988 1500 trike sold
2003 flhtuci
gl 1986 1200 trike sold
gl 1984 1200 trike sold
first bike cb 160 honda
to many to list in between
 Posted: Sun Nov 22nd, 2009 10:40 pm 58th Post
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jims_retired
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I will probably mod the exsisting swing arm, a lot less steel to buy and a lot less welding... I will leave more of the original drive shaft tube  and bring the right square swingarm tube farther down toward the rear axle.. How does it handle, cornering and etc? I really like the drive shaft mod. How was that for vibration?

Thanks for the responce;)



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 Posted: Mon Nov 23rd, 2009 02:38 am 59th Post
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skoto1
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the last one handeled great but like a trike. i dropped the back end down to compensate for not having the easy steer and it worked good.

i have thought about cutting the neck loose and kicking it forward some to have the same effect only more so.

the shaft didn't vibrate at all on the last one should be ok on this one also will do a longer road test on it tomorrrow if it doesn't rain.

oh and by the way weclome aboard this is a great sight.

Last edited on Mon Nov 23rd, 2009 02:39 am by skoto1



____________________
just do it and ask questions later. if you never start you'll never finish.

PGR # 190570
cc permit
gl 1988 1500 trike sold
2003 flhtuci
gl 1986 1200 trike sold
gl 1984 1200 trike sold
first bike cb 160 honda
to many to list in between
 Posted: Tue Nov 24th, 2009 01:24 am 60th Post
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jims_retired
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Thanks for the reply,

I drive bus part time and just got home... Was your rear axle a 7.5, because I am going to need my axle shafts shortened and sounds like moser does a good job and a decent price..

Does running the stock air shocks provide enough dampening? I have seen some run an extra shock in the center over the pumpkin..

Thanks again...



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