| GL1100 Driveshaft & Engine Removal | Rate Topic |
| Moderated by: redbaron, MDKramer, Flyone, AZgl1500 |
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| Posted: Mon Feb 8th, 2010 05:15 pm | 1st Post |
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I was hoping for a little help here. I have an '82 1100I and I am pulling the engine to replace the stator. Everything has gone smooth with the exception of actually getting the engine out. The Honda shop manual says to remove the snap ring, which was no problem. Then, after everything else is disconnected, to remove the engine from the LH side. The manual says that the driveshaft will disconnect from the engine as the engine is pulled. However, I can't get it to disconnect completely off the engine-side shaft. I can press it backwards about 1" or so, but not off the shaft. Has anyone had any luck with this or any tricks that I should try? Thanks!
____________________ Josh Traverse City, MI |
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| Posted: Mon Feb 8th, 2010 10:05 pm | 2nd Post |
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Where the shaft connects to the final drive maybe full of grease and preventing the shaft from sliding away from the engine enough. Try removing the final drive. I hope this guess helps as on the engines I removed the shaft slid rearwards far enough to disconnect the joint from the output shaft. Good luck.
____________________ Tim CMA Faith Riders Chapter 732 Don't steal, the government hates competition. http://www.goldwingdocs.com/ |
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| Posted: Mon Feb 8th, 2010 11:17 pm | 3rd Post |
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same here on my mine and a couple others ive done.try prying (gently on the part that slides) maybe stuck or dirty splines on eithe end. both ends are splined and have "C" clips. Last edited on Mon Feb 8th, 2010 11:18 pm by wda-83wing ____________________ 1979 gl1000 dressed --back to naked 1980 gl1100 interstate --side lined 1983 gl1100 interstate the fastest color--RED retired trucker---going to see it again ----on 2 wheels---love it--love it http://serrasj.com/ |
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| Posted: Tue Feb 9th, 2010 01:03 am | 4th Post |
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I think I'd pull the final drive anyway, just to see what you've got in there, and then you can lube it correctly upon reassembly.
____________________ Why ain't we ridin'? http://members.toast.net/BikesPage/ |
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| Posted: Tue Feb 9th, 2010 02:40 am | 5th Post |
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have you considered a "Poor boy" kit for a charging system?It bolts on without pulling your motor, gives you way more power & road side repairs are easy! what have you done to confirm that your stator is bad? They are usually very good on that bike! keep us posted!!! wayne
____________________ Proud new owner of another 82 1100 Aspy! hatchetman@goldwingfacts.com |
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| Posted: Tue Feb 9th, 2010 02:47 am | 6th Post |
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The Poorboy is a good addition if you need more power but not as common on 1100s as it is on 1200s which have more stator failures. For some reason 1100s don't seem to have very many stator failures. I've never had a problem getting the shaft to come loose from the engine when pulling a 1100 engine from the frame. I've always put the bike on the center stand and supported the engine with a bike jack. That way you can wiggle the engine up and down and sideways to help loosen up the mounting bolts and slip the engine out of the frame. Sure makes it easier. It might be that you have some weight on the shaft which is binding the U-joint to the splines. Try a pry bar on the rear of the engine just to wiggle it up and down a bit while pushing the u-joint rearward.
____________________ If you can't ride, fly or sail it, why bother? 2001 Goldwing 1800 2004 Silverwing 600 Paul W. |
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| Posted: Tue Feb 9th, 2010 11:39 am | 7th Post |
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As far as verifying that the stator was bad, that is where the Hodna Shop Manual comes in really handy. I have looked at doing a poorboy setup or something similar, but like was stated earlier, there are more kits readily availble for the 1200's and not the 1100's, though I have seen a few out there. I also wanted a good excuse to pull the engine and go through eveything else that I haven't been able to before. Also a good time to do some good cleaning on the motor and freshen it up a bit. I think I'll try removing the final drive as that seems to be the smartest thing to do, also another chance to clean that up real good as well. i always change the oils in my bike religiously, so needing to pull it to fill it properly isn't needed. Also, a trick that I use when I change the fluid in the final drive is after I drain the fluid in it and replace the plug is to spin the wheel in reverse by hand while I'm filling the final drive. That way, one can fill the final drive with more fluid, allowing the drive to run a little cooler. My 2 cents.....
____________________ Josh Traverse City, MI |
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| Posted: Tue Feb 9th, 2010 12:22 pm | 8th Post |
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I agree with Paul.Ive never removed the final drive on a engine change.. Just a shot of some silicone spray and a prybar should do it. JB
____________________ 2003 yamaha vstar 1100 classic 2004 honda rebel 250 {2}1983 aspencades + 83 Interstate 82 Aspencade <2>77 gl 1000 1981 Interstate <2> 75gl1000s 76 Gl1000 |
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| Posted: Tue Feb 9th, 2010 03:00 pm | 9th Post |
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I've never removed the drive to clear the driveshaft either, but I usually remove the timing belt cover on the right side to make more wiggle room.
____________________ Alan Fitzpatrick. |
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| Posted: Wed Feb 10th, 2010 05:20 pm | 10th Post |
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I removed both timing covers to make sure that I wasn't going to run across that problem. I haven't had time to try some of the suggestions that have been posted yet, but I'll let you know how it goes. This is the only thing keeping the engine in the bike still. Thanks!
____________________ Josh Traverse City, MI |
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