| HERE'S ONE FOR THE SMART GUYS | Rate Topic |
| Moderators: redbaron, MDKramer, Flyone, AZgl1500 | Page: 1 2   |
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| Posted: Tue Aug 31st, 2010 08:12 pm | 1st Post |
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Following the wiring, I think the cylindrical thing on the end of the stick is the sender for the low fuel warning light. Which, on this unit is no longer doing it's job. Is there a resistor inside that unit that reacts when dry? Is that whole thing a sensor? Could it be plugged with gunk so the inside sensor never detects dry conditions? And most importantly...can it be fixed? Last edited on Thu Sep 2nd, 2010 05:32 am by Bike...and Dennis ____________________ Why ain't we ridin'? http://members.toast.net/BikesPage/ |
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| Posted: Tue Aug 31st, 2010 08:40 pm | 2nd Post |
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Dennis, Take a look at this post... http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/view_topic.php?id=3409&forum_id=1&highlight=thermister Post #17 is the most relevant to your question. Looks like it is a thermister that is what causes the Low Fuel light to come on.
____________________ Larry "Only two things are infinite... the universe and human stupidity; and I am not sure about the former" -- Albert Einstein I'm sure you believe you understand what you think I said but I'm not sure you realize that what you think you heard is not what I meant. 
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| Posted: Tue Aug 31st, 2010 08:45 pm | 3rd Post |
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Yep ! The OEM p/n the 1200 and 1500 low fuel sensor is 37810-MN5-008. you can use the same thermistor in the GL1200 and the GL1500. The guys at http://www.newark.com carries a replacement as a NTC THERMISTOR, p/n 20F735 TYPE RL2004-582-97-T10 for something near $3 USD
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| Posted: Tue Aug 31st, 2010 08:54 pm | 4th Post |
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Dennis, here is some more information about your trouble. From the GL1200 service manual. LOW FUEL WARNING LIGHT Place the motorcycle on its center stand. Ground the white/Blue wire terminal of the fuel level sensor coupler to the ground. Check that the low fuel warning light comes on within 30 seconds after the ignition switch has been turned ON. NOTE: The light will not come on immediately after the ignition switch is turned ON. If the light does not come on within 30 seconds, check for a blown fuse or bulb, loose connector or open circuit in the wire harness. Replace the sensor if the above procedure does not indicate that anything is wrong. Check that the low fuel warning light will not light when the ignition switch is turned ON with disconnected the coupler from the fuel level sensor. If the warning light comes on, check for a short circuit in the wire harness or coupler. Replace the sensor if nothing wrong is indicated.
____________________ Larry "Only two things are infinite... the universe and human stupidity; and I am not sure about the former" -- Albert Einstein I'm sure you believe you understand what you think I said but I'm not sure you realize that what you think you heard is not what I meant.
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| Posted: Thu Sep 2nd, 2010 12:17 am | 5th Post |
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I thought I posted a pic of this. I thought senility would bring peace of mind...  Anyway, Satan, that Newark site didn't show a pic of their product. Is it the goody on the end of the stick in this pic? Attachment: sender.jpg (Downloaded 270 times)
____________________ Why ain't we ridin'? http://members.toast.net/BikesPage/ |
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| Posted: Thu Sep 2nd, 2010 01:23 am | 6th Post |
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yea......... thats it Dennis. I always thought there was a plunger that goes up and down in there. Don't go by me though......... lord knows I've been wrong before.
____________________ Don't want a deal with alot of flibiddy-flab or mumbo-jumbo........... |
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| Posted: Thu Sep 2nd, 2010 03:16 am | 7th Post |
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Hey Dennis, go read this link. Lots of good stuff about how the Low Fuel sensor works. Looks like the V65 Magna, St1100 and the Goldwings all work in a similiar manner. http://www.stocrallies.com/st-riders/index.php?topic=976.0;wap2
____________________ Larry "Only two things are infinite... the universe and human stupidity; and I am not sure about the former" -- Albert Einstein I'm sure you believe you understand what you think I said but I'm not sure you realize that what you think you heard is not what I meant.
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| Posted: Thu Sep 2nd, 2010 05:37 am | 8th Post |
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So what actually is happening? Does that thing sense liquid? Could it be plugged up? Do I replace the whole canister or something inside it? I resent Ben Franklin and his damn kite.
____________________ Why ain't we ridin'? http://members.toast.net/BikesPage/ |
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| Posted: Thu Sep 2nd, 2010 01:29 pm | 9th Post |
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http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/90971.html is a pretty good thread and has links and "how to" and such -- the "net efect is to replace a small componant that's inside that can... The "can" actually holds a little thermistor (looks like a resistor or a small capacitor)... The "How it works" part is pretty easy: The "NTC" in the part number is for Negative Temperature Coefficient -- which identifies that the resistance across the thermistor leads decreases as temperature increases... This "thermistor" is really only measuring temperature. (same thing the air intake temp sensor and the Coolant Temp sensors are doing)... The difference here is that the way the thing is "hooked-up" -- it's set to monitor it's own temperature. Seems odd, but stay with me for just a bit more... There's a small voltage coming into that thermistor (in the can) from that one wire; the circuit is one this yellowed wire into one thermistor lead, and the other thermistor lead is grounded to the can. The voltage coming into that lead actually runs through the dash's low-fuel lamp (something to rememebr if you go with LEDs.) So ... this thermistor acts as a resistor that's value (resistance) gets lower as it gets hotter. The small current passing through the dassh-bulb and thermistor causes the thermistor to heat slightly at all times (yeah, great I know I wanted a heater in my fuel  ) -- The "heat" (realy, a small amount) is sucked-away into the fuel which keeps the thermistor cooled (and at a high resistance -- about 1000-ohms)... the 1000 ohms keeps the current low enough to not "light" the low-fuel dash-lamp. When the fuel level drops-off, the thermistor is no longer bathed in the fuel... The small amount of current is still passing through the thermistor causing it to heat, but now the fuel is NOT drawing heat off of the device ... so the therrmistor gets hotter. As the thermistor gets hotter its resistance decreases allowing more and more current to flow through the "Low Fuel" dash-lamp -- eventually, the current flow will increase to a point where the bulb is bright enough for you to see it  Kinda sloppy writing, sorry 'bout that - I can offer additional input or whatever, if needed ... Couple of interesting things on these sensors: * Since the sensor does get pretty warm (ever touch a lighted dash-bulb -- about that hot), it's best to fill your tank after letting the thermistor cool a while (Shut the ignition off and give it a minute if the low-fuel lamp was on) -- filling while the thermistor is hot can cause a serious temperature shock to the thermistor, which can cause it to fail completely ! * Note on LEDs... LEDs require less current to light - so having a 1000-ohm (cool=fuel) thermistor in the tank may not be enough to keep the LED dark -- I'd recommend NOT changing the low-fuel lamp to LED without some experimentation to ensure that the lamp's function is not impaired. That thread I listed up-top has a link to Moser electronics in one of my posts there... Their data sheet may have a picture of the part.
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| Posted: Thu Sep 2nd, 2010 02:26 pm | 10th Post |
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Satan, that was excellent. An explanation of an electric widgit that I can understand. That's so rare. Thank you, sir.
____________________ Why ain't we ridin'? http://members.toast.net/BikesPage/ |
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| Posted: Tue Sep 7th, 2010 08:14 pm | 11th Post |
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Well, after trying to find the part in town I know 2 things. 1: The guys who work at RadioShack know less about electronics than I do. (I didn't think that was possible) 2: Nobody here stocks thermistors. So I went on line and ordered 2 of the little devils from Newark. I sort of regret that too as they don't seem to know how much it's going to cost me until the parts are shipped.  Can't make this stuff up folks... So, they have my credit card # and will surprize me when I get the part. They can't even say when it will be shipped or even if it is in stock... Next time you go to your Honda dealer, remember...it could be worse.
____________________ Why ain't we ridin'? http://members.toast.net/BikesPage/ |
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| Posted: Tue Sep 7th, 2010 09:52 pm | 12th Post |
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If you get dinged for over $20 you've been ripped off. I checked Digi-Key and here's their price for two, add $8.00 for shipping and remember this in Canadian dollars.
____________________ Advise given here is free and comes with no warranty "Caveat emptor". Ken |
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| Posted: Sat Sep 11th, 2010 06:49 pm | 13th Post |
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Now I'm confused again. These aren't what I expected. I thought I would get a little resistor. (cylindrical with a wire coming out of each end) Anybody know how this is supposed to go in that little canister? Attachment: DSCF3695.jpg (Downloaded 150 times)
____________________ Why ain't we ridin'? http://members.toast.net/BikesPage/ |
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| Posted: Sat Sep 11th, 2010 07:25 pm | 14th Post |
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You got the old resistor out yet?
____________________ 84 GL1200 Interstate ____________________ If you're not on the road, you're in a rut. |
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| Posted: Sat Sep 11th, 2010 09:26 pm | 15th Post |
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escogold wrote: You got the old resistor out yet? No. Attempting to get it out broke the housing. This is going south in a hurry. Even if I could get it apart, I don't think this part can be used. It would be a real tight fit and I don't know how you could insure the thermistor wouldn't touch the side of the holder and short out the system. Can it be wired up outside that little tank? Last edited on Sat Sep 11th, 2010 09:28 pm by Bike...and Dennis ____________________ Why ain't we ridin'? http://members.toast.net/BikesPage/ |
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| Posted: Sat Sep 11th, 2010 10:25 pm | 16th Post |
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I was thinking you could extract it, post a jpg of it and give the gang a look at it. Might be time to think about finding another sending unit. Your's year specific? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1985-Honda-GL-1200-Goldwing-Aspencade-Gas-Sending-Unit-/200485489961?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eadddcd29 Last edited on Sun Sep 12th, 2010 02:26 am by escogold ____________________ 84 GL1200 Interstate ____________________ If you're not on the road, you're in a rut. |
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| Posted: Mon Sep 13th, 2010 03:09 am | 17th Post |
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Well, I pushed one lead down into the can, beside the wire, and grounded the other lead to the outside of the can. Turned the ignition on and that little puppy got hot and the light started to glow. Not as bright as normal but it glowed. So I could actually use it outside the canister. Would that cause a problem?
____________________ Why ain't we ridin'? http://members.toast.net/BikesPage/ |
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| Posted: Mon Sep 13th, 2010 04:00 am | 18th Post |
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Only one way to find out.
____________________ 84 GL1200 Interstate ____________________ If you're not on the road, you're in a rut. |
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| Posted: Mon Sep 13th, 2010 04:05 am | 19th Post |
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I mean please don't try that and please get another sending unit. I thought I erased that URL above. Realized it was for an Aspencade.
____________________ 84 GL1200 Interstate ____________________ If you're not on the road, you're in a rut. |
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| Posted: Mon Sep 13th, 2010 03:32 pm | 20th Post |
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What Bike said about Radio Shack. I use to laugh when their commercials said, "You got questions, we've got answers." I was in a store when a customer had a hum in his guitar amp. He asked if a bad fuse could cause a hum. The clerk said, "Yes." That would be a real stretch but anything is possible. It's the last place I's look for a cause of hum.
____________________ Lyle, President of the Use Punctuation, Paragraphs, Capitals and Non Use of Acronyms Club. |
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