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| Oil | Rate Topic |
| Moderators: redbaron, MDKramer, Flyone, AZgl1500 | Page: 1 2 |
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| Posted: Wed Nov 5th, 2008 11:38 pm | 1st Post |
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Hey guys; Is it ok to run synthetic oil in the bike? Also I would like to know what oil weight I should use. I am getting ready to change my oil and have it ready for next spring and would like to know what is the best way to go. Also, what about spark plugs? Is there only one type to get, or do I have a choice? Thanks Jay
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| Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2008 12:36 am | 2nd Post |
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ah young grasshopper you seek the wisdom of the ancients! To be safe in your journey refer to the manual. Nobody (well mostly nobody) argues with Mother Honda. But you should be getting some replies shortly. Last edited on Thu Nov 6th, 2008 12:45 am by Keno |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2008 12:58 am | 3rd Post |
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woodworks wrote: Hey guys; as far as oil i run 15w40 shell rotella-t in the LTD.smoother shifts, quieter gearbox, and lower oil temps. it does not break down like some other oils can. or use mobil 1 . either of these oils are good to go.
____________________ c-17 mechanic gl1200LTD pilot 99 gl1500 valkyrie tourer moderator http://www.bulltear.com vollunteer old west gunfighter past wing and other bikes 1970 honda SL70 1979 gl1000 vetter gear 1980 gl1100 vetter gear 1984 gl1200 interstate 1984 honda v-45 sabre us army veteran 1981-1984 corrupting people since 1962 |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2008 01:31 am | 4th Post |
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Hey Jay. I asked the shop where I bought my Wing the same question just a week or so ago. They told me "not" to run a full synthetic oil in my 1500. They did say that Honda made a partial synthetic oil especially for the 1500, but I don't recall what they said the name of it was. I asked them what the problem with running a full synthetic was and they said something about causing a clutch problem. I am sure that there are some on here that are running a full synthetic oil without any problems, but this is what the shop foreman at the Honda shop told me. According to the Shop manual for the 1500, there are 3 plugs that Honda recommends. Standard heat range NGK DPR7EA-9or ND X22EPR-U9: Cold weather below 41 degrees NGK DPR6EA-9 or ND X20EPR-U9: Extended high-speed riding NGK DPR5EA-9 or ND X24EPR-U9 plug gag 0.031 to 0.035 Cobra
____________________ Galen Proud member of the Wild Rhinos! Life member of the MRCA (Motorcycle Riders Club of America) '99 1500SE '96 VS1400 Intruder 49,000 miles (Sold) '83 GS850GL 23,000 miles (Sold) '82 CM450E 4,500 miles (Gizmo's) Ride safe and enjoy all that you do. If you have to ride it like you stole it, chances are you did!!! |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2008 01:35 am | 5th Post |
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I run Chevron's Delo 400 15w40 in mine. Made the gear box a lot quieter and the shifts smoother. Probably my imagination, but I'm happier with it.
____________________ ~John |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2008 01:42 am | 6th Post |
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Where oil is concerned you have a motorcycle that will run 200000+ miles using honda mc oil or the rottela-t or delo, how many more miles would you expect to get using the more expensive synthetic oil? And oh yea 10w40 for now or early spring 15w40 in the summer should be good for the weather in ohio Another point is if you are storing it for the winter you should change the oil now and then again in the spring before you start to ride it again. As far as plugs go, how many miles are on the plugs? They last a long time. But i have seen a lot of talk about the iridium but they are costly, don't know if they are worth it. But check out http://cyclemaxohio.com/inc/sdetail/750 this they are fast, good and cheap.
____________________ 2006 GL1800 titanium 19k 90 GL 1500 CAMEL BLUE Totaled 88 gl 1500 gray ghost sold 78 gl 1000 naked parted out GONE 79 gl 1000 SOLD 76 gl 1000 LTD SOLD |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2008 02:32 am | 7th Post |
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the 84 gl1200 interstate i owned had 365,000 on the clock and i ran rotella-t. i bought it with 20,000 miles on it and never overhauled the beast. just the routine stuff like every 50,000 miles change the cam belts and tensioners, oil at 3500 miles, valve cover gaskets every 2 years, and tires as needed.
____________________ c-17 mechanic gl1200LTD pilot 99 gl1500 valkyrie tourer moderator http://www.bulltear.com vollunteer old west gunfighter past wing and other bikes 1970 honda SL70 1979 gl1000 vetter gear 1980 gl1100 vetter gear 1984 gl1200 interstate 1984 honda v-45 sabre us army veteran 1981-1984 corrupting people since 1962 |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2008 03:03 am | 8th Post |
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Woodworks, I do not see a reason not to use synthetic if you want too. The Rotella T 5W40 will pass the JASO MA clutch friction tests as will the 15W40 convention oil. These "universal" diesel oils will meet API Categories for gasoline engines - API SM also and are sold for fleets containing diesel and gasoline engines. They pass the JASO MA because they generally do not contain friction modifiers, at least for now. One benefit for synthetics is easier cranking and oil flow when the engine is cold.
____________________ Keith |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2008 06:41 am | 9th Post |
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The synthetics will run great in your wing and give you a smoother quieter shifting, but it is still important to change the oil by the manual recommendations. Go ahead and give it a try; the worse thing that can happen is that you don't like how the oil works in your bike and change it back to a dino oil!
____________________ [/url] |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2008 09:43 am | 10th Post |
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I was told by my dealer, just last week, that once you go to synthetic oil you can not go back. (2008/1800) Anyone have comments on that?
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| Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2008 11:20 am | 11th Post |
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wilkoi wrote: I was told by my dealer, just last week, that once you go to synthetic oil you can not go back. (2008/1800) Anyone have comments on that?Yea only one comment, he is an Idjuit.
____________________ The 1800 is my bike. The very best motorcycle ever made. I was enthralled with my first test ride on this machine. It is a great bike. A crotch rocket with storage bags.............As for oil I use the slick kind, and I like round tires, but as of late I have found square ones work best on the rear. Pirelli Eufori 195/55/16 @ 32 PSI Kit |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2008 12:28 pm | 12th Post |
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My Honda manual states it is much more important to change oil every 90 days as it becomes corrosive during combustion. I just changed oil/filter on Oct 15, so next change is Jan 15, then April 15, then July 15.... I use a good 15-40 in the Warm months & 15w40 in the colder months. I keep a list of interchangable oil filters in the trunk, and use any, except Fram. I usually get 4- one gallon jugs of oil + 4 filters every Spring to keep myself from procrastinating....which I would do if the oil & filter weren't 'right there'. Then there is the SUV, F-150, the 500 Shadow & the Lawn Tractor...on the same schedule. I'll be picking up eight 5 quart & eight 4 quart jugs of oil tomorrow, while the price is down. It's also time for plugs, wiper blades, washer fluids, etc. There goes a Sunday afternoon.
____________________ KANWINGS / Wild Rhinos Kansas Patriot Guard Μολὼν λαβέ Oath Keepers NRA Life Member GOA 97 1500SE Black/Chrome |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2008 04:38 pm | 13th Post |
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Kit Carson wrote: wilkoi wrote:I was told by my dealer, just last week, that once you go to synthetic oil you can not go back. (2008/1800) Anyone have comments on that?Yea only one comment, he is an Idjuit. Ok, we have one vote for Idjuit. Do we have two???
____________________ [/url] |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2008 04:41 pm | 14th Post |
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AZgl1500 wrote: I run Chevron's Delo 400 15w40 in mine. Me too! Changed about 500 miles ago from Castrol 4T 20-50 and quite a noticable improvement. Chuck
____________________ Walk on Water http://www.coldwater.me ----------------------- Current Bikes: 1983 Goldwing Interstate Past Bikes: 1978 Honda CX 500 (great bike) 1980 Honda XL80S 1970 Honda Trail 70 Current Toy: 1968 Correct Craft Ski Nautique (318 Chrysler) |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2008 04:43 pm | 15th Post |
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rollen dean montoya wrote: the 84 gl1200 interstate i owned had 365,000 on the clock and i ran rotella-t. i bought it with 20,000 miles on it and never overhauled the beast. just the routine stuff like every 50,000 miles change the cam belts and tensioners, oil at 3500 miles, valve cover gaskets every 2 years, and tires as needed. Valve cover gaskets . . . is this a neccessary maintanence item? Chuck
____________________ Walk on Water http://www.coldwater.me ----------------------- Current Bikes: 1983 Goldwing Interstate Past Bikes: 1978 Honda CX 500 (great bike) 1980 Honda XL80S 1970 Honda Trail 70 Current Toy: 1968 Correct Craft Ski Nautique (318 Chrysler) |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2008 04:46 pm | 16th Post |
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I agree if you can't go back why can you start? Thats a myth started by the synthetic oil manufacturers, or just urban bs. There is no proof or logical reason for this just someone starts saying it and everybody starts believing it. Its like i have heard people say at the begining of the season they run a tank of premium or some high octane fuel through the bike because it cleans it real good.
____________________ 2006 GL1800 titanium 19k 90 GL 1500 CAMEL BLUE Totaled 88 gl 1500 gray ghost sold 78 gl 1000 naked parted out GONE 79 gl 1000 SOLD 76 gl 1000 LTD SOLD |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2008 05:26 pm | 17th Post |
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rhughes wrote: I agree if you can't go back why can you start? Thats a myth started by the synthetic oil manufacturers, or just urban bs. There is no proof or logical reason for this just someone starts saying it and everybody starts believing it. What it cleans out real good, is the wallet of the believer
____________________ ~John |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2008 07:56 pm | 18th Post |
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I thought that myth about not being able to run dino oil after sythetic had died a timely death. The man may not be a total idjuit but he is not saying the same thing that lubricant Chemists say. Fact is, that synthetic oil IS dino oil that has been dimantled and put back together with longer molecule chains, if I may over simplify it. You will notice perhaps that the oil recyclers do not have any dificulty with fully synthetic oil. Synthetic oil is a little more slippery than conventional oil, and if a clutch is on it's last legs it could cause it to start to slip but does not seem to bother a healthy clutch. More important than what kind of oil is the frequency that you change it. use the best oil you can afford, but change it often. Don't forget that the Honda recomendation for oil change intervals is to get you off warantee, not to make the bike last forever. That would be counter productive for them. My bike gives me so much that I feel good giving a little back.
____________________ Tim Johnson '84 GL1200I '75 GL1000 '02 GASGAS Trials |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 6th, 2008 10:01 pm | 19th Post |
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it is when you live in the desert where the temps hit 100+ degrees for 4months. the other reason is i ride 50,000 to 80,000 miles a year so you can see i wear out things.
____________________ c-17 mechanic gl1200LTD pilot 99 gl1500 valkyrie tourer moderator http://www.bulltear.com vollunteer old west gunfighter past wing and other bikes 1970 honda SL70 1979 gl1000 vetter gear 1980 gl1100 vetter gear 1984 gl1200 interstate 1984 honda v-45 sabre us army veteran 1981-1984 corrupting people since 1962 |
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| Posted: Fri Nov 7th, 2008 12:53 am | 20th Post |
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heres another opinion on oils i own a 1999 gl1500 se with 158000 kliks on it and have never used anything except AMSOIL 10/40 motorcycle oil in it and never had a problem with the bike i also had a 1991 gl 1500 se and ran AMSOIL in it for 185000 kliks with no problem it seem to shift better and quieter but thats all and it also ran cooler in hot weather
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