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Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums > Forums > General Motorcycle Discussion Forum > What can you tell me about this bike from the pics?

What can you tell me about this bike from the pics?  Rate Topic  
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 Posted: Tue Mar 9th, 2010 06:53 pm 101st Post
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MDKramer



Joined: Fri Jul 11th, 2008
Location: Kearney, Nebraska USA
Posts: 6593
Goldwing: GL1100 Interstate, GL1200 Aspencade
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Yep!

BTDT

Try standing on the left side of the bike, hold the left handlebar with your left hand, hold the right rear crash guard, or the seat rail, in your right, dig your heels in and pull the bike forward.

Remember that you'll have to balance it when it comes off the stand.

I usually throw the kickstand down before pulling so it just has to stop moving forward, and I lean it onto the stand slick as can be.



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Mike Kramer

"Learn from the past, set vivid, detailed goals for the future, and live in the only moment of time over which you have any control: Now."

Denis Waitley
 Posted: Tue Mar 9th, 2010 07:03 pm 102nd Post
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twopeanuts



Joined: Mon Mar 1st, 2010
Location: Forsyth, Georgia USA
Posts: 31
Goldwing: GL1200 Interstate, None at present
Mileage: 91k
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Hey - that sounds like it will work!

I'll give that a try tomorrow morning (stuck at work now).

The decline isn't that steep - I just couldn't get it to budge when sitting on it:


Attachment: stuck1.jpg (Downloaded 92 times)



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84 GL1200 Interstate 91k
07 Fatboy 15k
 Posted: Tue Mar 9th, 2010 07:50 pm 103rd Post
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MDKramer



Joined: Fri Jul 11th, 2008
Location: Kearney, Nebraska USA
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I know I said right crash guard or seat rail...I meant left. DOH!



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Mike Kramer

"Learn from the past, set vivid, detailed goals for the future, and live in the only moment of time over which you have any control: Now."

Denis Waitley
 Posted: Tue Mar 9th, 2010 10:09 pm 104th Post
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norton



Joined: Fri Aug 4th, 2006
Location: Rocky Mountain High, Colorado USA
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HAHAHAHAHAHAHA!
I've done the center stand thing too!

 Posted: Tue Mar 9th, 2010 10:48 pm 105th Post
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picasso



Joined: Wed Oct 29th, 2008
Location: St. Clair Co., Alabama USA
Posts: 7460
Goldwing: GL1000
Mileage:  29,000
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I'd most likely just roll off , but beware it is going to want to go down with you , so look out!!



____________________
If you don't like the way I'm living, ...then just leave this long haired country boy alone.............. 1976 GL 1000

Previous old loves-
19?? Zundapp with 6hp Briggs and Stratton engine. Chrome tank.
1971 Kawasaki H1 500 Blue/ white stripe
1975 Honda 750 Yellow
1980 GL 1100 Goldwing Interstate.Black
1982 GL 1100 Goldwing Standard. Black
1983 GL 1100 Goldwing Aspencade Black
1981 GL 1100 Goldwing Interstate Black
1981 GL 500 Silverwing Candy muse red.
1986 VT 500c red
 Posted: Tue Mar 23rd, 2010 06:31 pm 106th Post
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twopeanuts



Joined: Mon Mar 1st, 2010
Location: Forsyth, Georgia USA
Posts: 31
Goldwing: GL1200 Interstate, None at present
Mileage: 91k
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When I bought my 84 gl1200 from the trike shop in Rome - I saw an SEI there I fell in love with - that thing is cool!  Tried to talk the guy into selling it to me instead of the one I bought but he wouldn't do it.  Just happened to notice on craigslist that he listed that bike about a week later when he ran into issues with it.  He thinks it needs injectors.
Its an 86 SE-i up here if interested for $2500.
And you could get working injectors for it on ebay here for $200
If that's what the problem is - it looked like a really nice bike when I saw it in person - and if I had the cash now or he would have sold it to me when I was up there the week before he listed it - I would be all over it.


Quick update on my 84 GL1200 project bike and some new challenges:

* Rear brake problem was not enough travel because of the floor boards - changed how the brake lever was mounted so it was up higher and had more travel before reaching the floor boards and now have plenty of back brakes (and front as its linked)

* Fuel pump still clicks but I read other gl1200s having the same sound and continuing to work without problems so picked up a spare used one - tested it (no clicking) and put it in my saddle bags to carry as a spare - I want to see how many miles I can get on the clicking pump before it fails :)

* Changed the fuel filter, lines, spark plugs, oil and filter, and now sounds much better running.

* Found some docs in the trunks on work done, recent (2yrs) timing belt (so waiting on that a bit) and front fork seals - had a new stator 45k miles ago - lots of service records for misc. work over the years - made me feel good reading through it.

Current problems:

* Stuck in traffic engine gets hot - let it get up to almost touching redline one day and checked and fan is not kicking on.  Thinking about skipping the switch/stat replacement and just wiring the lines to an unused switch on the right fairing that used to control fog lights... thoughts?

* New AGM batter drains down to where it won't crank after 2 days of 5-6 hrs per day riding (saturday/sundays).  Not a huge problem right now as I'm only riding it on weekends now as I work through issues and learn to trust it - and have a charger to recharge the AGM during the week so its ready to go again for another weekend of riding.  And I've gotten good at telling when its only got a few more cranks left by the sound - and can then park on a hill if needed to coast and clutch jump it to get home on Sunday afternoons.  I'm thinking its a bad stator or voltage regulator but not sure how to check which is the problem... I did find the wire covering starting to melt at the plug next to the starter switch with the dogbone main and used the info on here to do the twistie fix replacing the dogbone with a 30amp car fuse and cutting out the bad wiring and using new connectors to connect to the two left over prongs on the starter solenoid (skipped using the other two and ran main fuse to battery).  Another weekend of riding and still had the battery going dead problem late on day 2 - so I'm thinking when that got hot and melted it might have messed up the voltage regulator or stator.   Which is more probable?   I'm not good with electrical stuff so I'll probably just buy and replace the regulator first and hope I don't waste a 100 bucks.  It looks like a new on it now so I dunno.   I'm eventually going to have to do a poor boy conversion anyway so maybe I should start there instead?



Last edited on Tue Mar 23rd, 2010 06:40 pm by twopeanuts



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84 GL1200 Interstate 91k
07 Fatboy 15k
 Posted: Tue Mar 23rd, 2010 07:22 pm 107th Post
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jwhitmore44



Joined: Wed Apr 12th, 2006
Location: St. Francis, Kansas USA
Posts: 2476
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I got this off the forum someplace.

GL 1000/1100/1200 Stator Testing Procedures:

For the purpose of testing the Stator assembly, use the following procedure:

1. check the ACG coupler for discoloration, which indicates overheating and it is faulty. This is the connector to the immediate left of the battery and consists of 3 yellow wires. If the connector is found to be discolored and/or brittle from overheating, an ACG Coupler Repair Kit (Part # 31105-ML8-305) is available from your local HONDA dealer. Ensure that the coupler is well packed with dielectric grease. An alternative is to remove the coupler altogether and ?hardwire/solder? the yellow wires together. This method is also acceptable but does make future testing somewhat difficult and would require cutting of the wiring.

2. unplug the ACG coupler and start the engine.
WARNING: Unplugging the ACG coupler while the engine is running can cause sparks which can ignite flammable fuel vapors. You could be burned. Do not unplug the ACG coupler while the engine is running.

3. with a Voltmeter, measure the A.C. voltage between each pair of the three (3) yellow wires in the ACG coupler that leads to the rear of the engine and enters through the rubber grommet leading to the Stator. Conduct the voltage tests between wires A and B, A and C and finally between B and C. With the engine at a steady 3,000 RPM, the voltage should be at least 50 Volts of A.C. voltage from each pair (or phase).

4. if the test indicates 50 Volts A.C. voltage or more from each pair (or phase), the Stator does not require replacement. However, if either pair of wires does show less than 50 Volts of A.C. voltage, replace the Stator.

5. Continuity tests must also be performed to determine if the Stator has developed an electrical short within itself or if it has shorted to "ground". With your tester set on the Ohmeter @ R X 1, check for continuity between each pair (or phase) of yellow wires, A and B, A and C and B and C. You should have continuity at all three pairs (or phases). If you find any one pair with no continuity, then this indicates an open circuit in the windings of the Stator and it requires replacement. Then check for continuity between each yellow wire to a source of ?ground?. You should NOT have continuity and if you do find continuity at any wire, this indicates a short within the Stator windings and requires replacement.

** for your Stator to be healthy, it must pass all of the above tests.



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03 Honda XR650L
84 GL1200 Aspencade

 Posted: Tue Mar 23rd, 2010 07:31 pm 108th Post
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twopeanuts



Joined: Mon Mar 1st, 2010
Location: Forsyth, Georgia USA
Posts: 31
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The wires coming out of my stator do not go to an ACG coupler - I can tell where there used to be one looking at the Haynes manual - but my yellow wires from the stator go into crimp connectors that connect to black wires. Sounds like they need to be soldered instead... I guess I'll have to do some cutting to test anyway - then solder back after if the tests are good and see if that helps any.



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84 GL1200 Interstate 91k
07 Fatboy 15k
 Posted: Tue Mar 23rd, 2010 07:37 pm 109th Post
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jwhitmore44



Joined: Wed Apr 12th, 2006
Location: St. Francis, Kansas USA
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Couldn't hurt as those crimp on connectors can get corroded also. You should also be able to check the voltage at the battery with the engine revved you should be seeing some where about 13 to 13.5 volts. If your voltage is under 13 with the engine revved you probably are not charging it.

I finally got rid of the ACG coupler on my 84 this weekend. The connector always looked good and I kept it full of grease, but the connectors were looking discolored.



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03 Honda XR650L
84 GL1200 Aspencade

 Posted: Wed Mar 24th, 2010 01:20 am 110th Post
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lionelgo50



Joined: Tue Sep 1st, 2009
Location: Oklahoma City, Oklahoma USA
Posts: 5187
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I just read this entire thread, and it looks like you got a good deal on a nice 1200. I wouldn't be surpeised if just soldering the 3 yellow wires fixes the charging system since the stator was replaced once and it takes 2 days to lose the charge. If the crimp connectors have any corrosion the charging will not be complete. There is no replacement for a good solder job. Don't forget the heat shrink.

 

Enjoy your Wing!



____________________
Dave
Ride Safe and Ride Often, Keep the Shiny Side up and Many Happy Miles and Smiles.

"In God We Trust" All Others Must pay Cash!!!

Current Goldwing 2010 Gl1800 Trike

Other Rides

1985 Goldwing Aspencade Blue - Sold
2006 Harley Davidson Sportster - Sold
2006 Goldwing Navi - Sold
2007 Honda Rebel 250cc
2007 Honda 110cc
1985 1200cc Goldwing Aspencade Beige
1994 1500cc Goldwing Interstate Black
2010 1800cc Goldwing Trike Red

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