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nobbie
Very Active Member
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Posted: Mon May 19th, 2008 01:51 pm | 21st Post |
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| There were some good suggestions about using rubber washers as they avoid pressure points. Also keep in mind that the thermal coefficient of expansion is much higher for plastic than metal so I would drill the holes a little oversized to allow for the movement.
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Matt G
Very Active Member
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Posted: Tue Aug 19th, 2008 08:57 pm | 22nd Post |
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easy fix or for prevention,
remove the lid and then remove the inner liners, scuff up the inside of the lid, and line inside of the lid with fiberglass cloth using ABS pipe cement for the resin, a couple layers of glass and you will never crack that lid.
____________________
Owner and originator, http://WWW.U-FIX-IT-AZ.COM
Current Goldwings:
1984 GL1200 "fugly one"
1988 GL1500 "Wings of Freedom"
2001 GL1800 "Red 18"
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Dusty Boots
Very Active Member
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Posted: Wed Aug 20th, 2008 02:01 pm | 23rd Post |
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dqsdad2001 wrote: I have installed a trunk rack on mine and used these washers with the Rack risers. They risers give you a larger footprint to spread out the weight better.
http://www.hondadirectlineusa.com/stores/product.asp?pid=7659&str=4&ID=457800110
http://www.hondadirectlineusa.com/stores/product.asp?pid=6605&str=4&ID=457800110
They work great no cracks here but I almost screwed up when installing the rack with the risers. I made all the marks for the holes with out the risers on. When when the risers are in place the mounting holes are different. Just be careful measure over and over and if you don't feel comfortable doing it then take to the dealer. If they screw it up they will have to buy you a new lid...lol
That's what I did with mine, except I also added a rubber tap washer inside the 'risers', for the rack to rest on as well. I also added oversize rubber washers on the underside of the lid and then a fender washer over that, for the head of the bolt to snug up on.
I had to ream out the risers, which are made for the 1800, in order for the 6mm trunk rack bolt to fit through. So far, no cracks after 20,00kms.
Larger shot: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3282/2781362148_c4dd685d1b_o.jpg
Dusty
____________________
Ken
Current Ride; 1992 GL1500 Aspencade.
" no man is completely useless, ..... they can always be used as a horrible example!"
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=KeninPen&view=videos
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SpiderBob
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Posted: Thu Sep 18th, 2008 09:54 pm | 24th Post |
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So reading all this it is pretty evident that one must not use the rack to close the lid, dont' let it drop, and perhaps don't use a rack. However, most of us have one and probably will not give it up. So again, after all the posts, it seems to be the best to use the 3mm alloy plate (I assume aluminum or stainless) and mend it to the lid structure. I have the round rack and I have cracks, I have a new lid ordered and am waiting for it. I did have full length plates on the underside but still it cracked. But I did not mend it to the underside. Perhaps a really good glue or even the ABS patch kit using additional ABS material would work good?? what do ya think? Also, what about the flat racks as opposed to the round racks, any difference? Beside price.
Hope my spelling is not to far off, could not find a spell checker.
I like this idea the best - I'll try it.
"easy fix or for prevention,
remove the lid and then remove the inner liners, scuff up the inside of the lid, and line inside of the lid with fiberglass cloth using ABS pipe cement for the resin, a couple layers of glass and you will never crack that lid."
Last edited on Thu Sep 18th, 2008 09:58 pm by SpiderBob
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