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shock rebuild, gl1200
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Gambler
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 Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2006 08:25 am1st Post
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I rebuilt the shocks this weekend on the 1200, after a short ride, worth the work. I will post some pics, I think I see more shock questions then anything else. Maybe help someone doing the same thing. The fluid that came out was brown and smelled burnt. Also there was less than the recommened 10.5 oz's in there.  I used a hand pump to pop the seal after removing the circlip.

Attachment: shock rebuild 010 (Small).jpg (Downloaded 1062 times)

Last edited on Mon Jul 31st, 2006 08:26 am by Gambler



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 Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2006 08:29 am2nd Post
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this is a shot of the stock springs and the progressive springs(progressive springs are the gold ones)

Attachment: shock rebuild 013 (Small).jpg (Downloaded 1049 times)



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 Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2006 08:42 am3rd Post
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this is the tool I made to compress the springs. it consists of 2  1&1/2 inch floor flanges, the top flange is bored out to 2.125(approx. 2&1/8 inch diameter). the bottom flange has a standard plug screwed in to hold the shock end. the threaded rods are 3/8 by 16 allthread, 2 foot long. I double bolted the top flange with grade 8 nuts and hardened washers. The drive nuts are grade 8 with 2 greased hardened washers to reduce galling and friction. use at your own risk, but it worked for me.

Attachment: shock rebuild 001 (Small).jpg (Downloaded 1053 times)



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 Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2006 08:43 am4th Post
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another shot of the tool. bottom of the tool.

Attachment: shock rebuild 002 (Small).jpg (Downloaded 1041 times)



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 Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2006 08:47 am5th Post
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this is the top.oh just in case anyone is still using that old outdated metric system, the top plate hole is 54 mm. ;)

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 Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2006 08:49 am6th Post
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better view of the top plate hole. I stuck the tool into two holes in my workcenter, the holes were just a little too close together and this helped to hold the tool upright.

Attachment: shock rebuild 034 (Small).jpg (Downloaded 1026 times)

Last edited on Mon Jul 31st, 2006 08:50 am by Gambler



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 Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2006 08:53 am7th Post
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this is how it works, you have to compress the shock about 2 inches, then pop the top mounting off the shock body.

Attachment: shock rebuild 022 (Small).jpg (Downloaded 1026 times)



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 Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2006 08:55 am8th Post
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this is how I popped the top after compressing the shock about 2 inches.

Attachment: shock rebuild 051 (Small).jpg (Downloaded 1015 times)



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 Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2006 08:56 am9th Post
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and this is what you should get

Attachment: shock rebuild 049 (Small).jpg (Downloaded 1019 times)



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 Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2006 08:56 am10th Post
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and this, yes a posed shot. :dude:

Attachment: shock rebuild 053 (Small).jpg (Downloaded 1006 times)

Last edited on Mon Jul 31st, 2006 08:57 am by Gambler



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 Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2006 08:59 am11th Post
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then you have to unscrew the top from the lock nut. you need a 23mm wrench to hold the locknut, and a several sixteenths wrench(aka, adjustable) to loosen and remove the top mount.

Attachment: shock rebuild 020 (Small).jpg (Downloaded 1005 times)

Last edited on Mon Jul 31st, 2006 09:01 am by Gambler



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 Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2006 09:04 am12th Post
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then you back off the nuts on the tool and releive tension to remove the springs. then wash everything. this is what you will have

Attachment: shock rebuild 015 (Small).jpg (Downloaded 999 times)



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 Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2006 09:05 am13th Post
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you will need a 11mm by 1.25 thread pitch tap to clean the old locktight from the top mount or it won't thread back on properly.

Attachment: shock rebuild 035 (Small).jpg (Downloaded 979 times)



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 Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2006 09:07 am14th Post
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I reused the o-rings on the top mount, they were still supple. you will also need a bolt, 8mm by 1.00 thread pitch to plug the airline hole when you refill the shock.

Attachment: shock rebuild 037 (Small).jpg (Downloaded 982 times)



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 Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2006 09:11 am15th Post
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make sure you pump the damper and turn it horizonal to drain the old oil, I washed everything but the damper in simple green. I just wiped down the damper. this area is where I think some people make a mistake. if you scratch the area where you pry out the lower circlip, it will damage the outside of the seal, resulting in a leak when you reinstall it, so clean this area up with crocus cloth or fine emery paper.

Attachment: shock rebuild 038 (Small).jpg (Downloaded 987 times)



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 Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2006 09:14 am16th Post
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ok, so you put the spring seat back on the damper and it should seat on the small circlip on the damper body, then load the springs with the plastic seperator on the large spring. small spring inside.

Attachment: shock rebuild 016 (Small).jpg (Downloaded 977 times)

Last edited on Mon Jul 31st, 2006 09:14 am by Gambler



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 Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2006 09:16 am17th Post
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next the body goes on, slide the black rubber bumper down and extend the damper so it sticks up. this was shot after compressing the spring untill the locknut was above the body.

Attachment: shock rebuild 017 (Small).jpg (Downloaded 974 times)



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 Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2006 09:18 am18th Post
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almost forgot, install the plastic guide bushing from the bottom before compressing the springs, it helps to keep the body from tilting. thats the gray ring right above my hand, push it up into the body.

Attachment: shock rebuild 047 (Small).jpg (Downloaded 976 times)

Last edited on Mon Jul 31st, 2006 09:19 am by Gambler



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 Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2006 09:21 am19th Post
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next, put grease on the 2 o-rings and locktight into the threaded hole for the damper shaft

Attachment: shock rebuild 019 (Small).jpg (Downloaded 961 times)



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 Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2006 09:22 am20th Post
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screw it on, notice that the body and the top mount are keyed by 2 flats, they must align. don't worry it's easy.

Attachment: shock rebuild 043 (Small).jpg (Downloaded 965 times)



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