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Kendas
Active Member
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Posted: Sat Oct 21st, 2006 10:49 pm | 21st Post |
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That depends on where you live (subtle hint to put your location in your profile). In any place that stays above 50 degrees most of the year I wouldn't use 5 weight anything.
You realize you've opened up a can of worms oil what oil to use.
About the only thing everyone can agree on is to stay away from any oil that says it can extend your mileage or has teflon in it. Wet clutches have a real hard time gripping the plates with some of the additives they put in those types of oil.
Ken
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Ken S. - Old and one legged... But then again the 84 Interstate isn't what it used to be either.
Previous Bikes:
1983 Interstate (Bought 2002 only had it 3 months and got T-boned)
1975 GL1000 WJ III, Bates Bags, ARE Boot (115K)
1972 2 Yamaha Enduros
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Goldwinger1984
Senior Guru
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Posted: Sat Oct 21st, 2006 11:26 pm | 22nd Post |
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scot wrote: hey vic, thx for your speedy reply. do you know if the napa belts 250070 can be used
for the belt/belts changing as i am about to plunge into that project.
changing oil can you use castrol synthetic 5-50 wt oil on the gw [wet clutch and all]
you hear so much pro and con on the oil subject.
thx scot
Napa 250070 is the correct number for the two belts you need Scot.
Regarding the oil, I haven't had good luck with synthetics in the older Wings so I stick with my favorite, Castol GTX 10W40 or 20W50 for motorcycles. I found that under severe high performance usage there was clutch slippage, but I will shift at 7500 RPM. Not many guys spin their Wings up that high so they would never notice any slippage like I would. With the Castrol GTX for motorcycles I have never noticed any clutch slippage. The other thing I had happen with synthetic oil was a blown seal on the first cold start after installing the synthetic oil. After I did some research on synthetic oil I discovered that synthetic oil can build flow and velocity at a more rapid pace than regular oil because the molecular composition causes the molecules of the oil to cling tighter together therefore the oil impacts much harder against seals and gaskets upon first start when cold. Regular oil apparently has a built in cushion because the molecules are not so closely bound. There are advantages and disadvantages to each type of oil.
Comments about oils are a real can of worms. Some guys swear by the synthetic oils with the red caps and gold caps and purple caps and if that oil works for them that's great, but it sure didn't work for me.
So, you decide for yourself which oil you're going to use because it seems like no matter which oil is discussed one is bad and the other is a miracle then the next day the very same oil is junk because another is supposed to be better.
Just use a quality oil that meets or exceeds the API standards recommended (SF or better) for your bike and remember the oil standards for your bike have been exceeded many time over since your bike was new.
Vic
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A place for GL1200's to gather.
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mustasz
Member
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Posted: Sat Oct 21st, 2006 11:50 pm | 23rd Post |
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I completely agree with you Guru,there is as many opinions about oil as guys disscusing it. I use 10w40 motorcycle castrol, no problems at all. But I dont crank my wing to 7500 rpm. Mathew
____________________
What ride to choose?
81 GL1100
96 Low Rider FXDL
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scot
Member
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Posted: Sun Oct 22nd, 2006 12:15 am | 24th Post |
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| thx for the 100% answer will get the belts and the castrol..
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john424
Very Active Member
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Posted: Sun Oct 22nd, 2006 12:38 am | 25th Post |
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Does it matter which way I turn the engine over?? That is , do I push down on the box end wrench or pull up on it?? Or clockwise or counter clockwise???
Goin to change belt's next week.
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Goldwinger1984
Senior Guru
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Posted: Sun Oct 22nd, 2006 02:58 am | 26th Post |
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Counter clockwise to loosen the crank bolt.
Clockwise is the direction you will need to rotate the right side camshaft pulley to get the belt back into its correct place.
Make certain that you line everything up at T1 on the crank indicator as the earlier instructions denote.
Vic
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A place for GL1200's to gather.
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Goldwinger1984
Senior Guru
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Posted: Sun Oct 22nd, 2006 03:01 am | 27th Post |
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Forgot to mention that you may need to have someone step on the rear brake pedal while the transmission is in a high gear. That will lock the engine while you loosen the crank bolt.
Vic
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john424
Very Active Member
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Posted: Sun Oct 22nd, 2006 03:37 am | 28th Post |
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Goldwinger:
I don't think I have to loosen the crank bolt!! Am I missing something here???
Your right about the Gen. bolt!! Counter clockwise would loosen it!!! DAH??
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Goldwinger1984
Senior Guru
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Posted: Sun Oct 22nd, 2006 03:43 am | 29th Post |
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Just in case you wanted to check the crank seal or remove the crank pulley to clean it but, no, you are correct it does not need to be removed.
Vic
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A place for GL1200's to gather.
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john424
Very Active Member
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Posted: Sun Oct 22nd, 2006 12:56 pm | 30th Post |
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Goldwinger:
Thank's.
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Goldwinger1984
Senior Guru
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Posted: Sun Oct 22nd, 2006 01:10 pm | 31st Post |
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You're welcome.
Vic
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A place for GL1200's to gather.
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scot
Member
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Posted: Sun Oct 22nd, 2006 02:27 pm | 32nd Post |
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i was awake thinking, the crank bolt? the transmission the brake.. in the manual it
shows turning the middle bolt to move the engine to the timing marks at 3 and 9
o'clock. o'well will try again thanks for your help..
scot
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Goldwinger1984
Senior Guru
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Posted: Sun Oct 22nd, 2006 05:28 pm | 33rd Post |
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Scot, if you don't clearly understand all of the above instructions fully then DO NOT even attempt to change the belts yourself. Guessing can be extremely costly. It could end up being much cheaper to have a shop change the belts for you.
From item one go over all of the posts in this thread and learn what each step means before you start. Understanding the relationship of the timing of the pistons to the valves is absolutely critical to the life of your engine. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ and heartbreak if done wrong.
Vic
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scot
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Posted: Sun Oct 22nd, 2006 05:40 pm | 34th Post |
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seems simple to do. [belts] i have a delorean 1981 auto and have rebuilt intake
manifold etc.
so this hopefully should not be too difficult. seems like a 1hr job minus removal of
radiator etc thx for your concern.
scot
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Goldwinger1984
Senior Guru
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Posted: Sun Oct 22nd, 2006 08:08 pm | 35th Post |
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Years ago, a friend loaned me his Delorean while he went on vacation and I distinctly recall getting locked inside the car on several occasions because the electric part of the gullwing doors would not work and I couldn't even climb out the windows because they were too small. Funniest thing of all was my son constantly telling me to make it go 88 miles per hour so we could go off into another time like Back to the Future.
I just mentioned the caution because I have seen too many guys install their belts with the cam and crank out of time and it resulted in complete replacement of the expensive valves and some guides along with all the work of R+R on the heads and associated components.
Good luck with it and one hour sounds about right if you don't break any bolts.
Vic
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scot
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Posted: Sun Oct 22nd, 2006 08:49 pm | 36th Post |
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hi vic i don't plan on replacing any crank bolts or the like. just a straight belt replacement looks easy in the photo. will pull the cover and if "push comes to shove"and the damm things looks to complicated i'll bolt it all back and take it my local honda dealer. try rebulding a delorean intake system that is truly scary..
scot
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Goldwinger1984
Senior Guru
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Posted: Sun Oct 22nd, 2006 09:52 pm | 37th Post |
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I seriously doubt that you would break a crank bolt Scot. It's the bolts in the covers that I'm concerned about. What happens is that folks overtighten those cover bolts then they bottom and seize in the aluminum. Best thing to use is a 3/8" drive impact gun and let it hammer gently until the bolt comes out, if it's seized. Twisting on a seized 6mm bolt with a long handle will almost always snap it off at the threads. Just feel carefully for any seizing before you start spinning those belt cover bolts off.
If you're talking about the Renault/Delorean intake you should be able to easily handle the timing belt change.
Vic
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scot
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Posted: Mon Oct 23rd, 2006 12:06 am | 38th Post |
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the renault/volvo intake is truly a nitemare. i broke off 2 studs [rust] they have pipes on the bottom of the manifold that you must feel aroung for when you re-install the manifold plus removing the gas lines water pump distributor and the like is nerve racking so i can't imagine the timing belts would be much too difficult a project.. is there any way to readjust the timing on the wing?
p.s. a policy of mine. i never buy anything i can't fix myself.. within reason of course.
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Goldwinger1984
Senior Guru
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Posted: Mon Oct 23rd, 2006 01:14 am | 39th Post |
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If you're talking ignition timing there is no adjustment. If you're talking about camshaft timing there is much room for adjustment but you don't want to go there because of that valve/piston relationship thing.
I don't expect that you'll have any problems with the belt change. Just check, doublecheck and triplecheck all of the alignment marks before you spin the engine.
Vic
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scot
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Posted: Tue Oct 24th, 2006 04:23 pm | 40th Post |
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hi vic, 2 questions. i have removed the timing bolts [holding the covers in place] i noticed i screw/bolt is much longer than the other 3 [total 4] do you know where this longer bolt goes? i was not paying attention the the sizes.left right inner outer ? also the covers are stuck on there really good is there a way to seperate these gracefully
or are there any more hidden bolts that i haven't found??
thx for your help
scot
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