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Changing timing belts tutorial
 Moderated by: wexman, tanygaer, redbaron, Patch, wingnut  
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Goldwinger1984
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 Posted: Tue Oct 24th, 2006 08:28 pm41st Post
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I believe that long one goes on the extreme left side, but it's easy enough to check.  Just put them back in place and see if there's a gap under the bolt head when you gently tighten it.

To separate the covers you may need to smack them with a rubber hammer or use a hook at the bolt holes to pry them off and the last recourse is to gently push a screwdriver into the gap between the iner and outer covers at the bottom of the cover and gently pry the covers off.  Hopefully you won't damage the gasket but if you do you can always touch it up with RTV silicone.  This is not a high pressure gasket it just basically keeps out dust and water.

Vic



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scot
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 Posted: Tue Oct 24th, 2006 09:53 pm42nd Post
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hi vic, this might be added to the "how to" for the goldwing owners. on the bottom

of the covers there are slots that you easily access to gently pry out the covers.

the bolt belongs on the extreme left side [drivers] facing forward i pulled the covers

and the belts

are very loose approx 1 inch of play [no good] i think what happens is 1 side is tight

when the firing time is reached [in phase] and the other loose until you come around

180deg to fire the other that is why you tighten left and right at different engine

times i.e. valves high valves low. so when i get my new ordered belts will replace

again thanks for your time and help..

scot

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 Posted: Tue Oct 24th, 2006 11:08 pm43rd Post
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hi, sometimes the timing covers can be very stubborn to remove, but on the bottom

of  each

 there is a slot and gentle tapping with a rubber mallet and voila off they come. no

pain.

thx scot.

Goldwinger1984
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 Posted: Wed Oct 25th, 2006 12:15 am44th Post
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Sounds like you got to it just in time Scot.  Much longer and you might have been replacing valves also if the timing belts broke.

Sounds like you found a good use for those ventilation slots at the bottom. 

Hoping all goes well for you at the belt change.

Vic 



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 Posted: Thu Nov 2nd, 2006 01:08 am45th Post
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hi vic, replaced my belts the other day. on the tension. i made them both about 1/8 in
[left right] order. spun the engine by hand 12 or more times [coward] no
hitting of metal fired her up and voila zoom zoom.. had to re-adjust the the idle since
it needed more gas when cold. so do you think 1/8 inch up and down is too tight for
the belt tension??

thx scot

Goldwinger1984
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 Posted: Thu Nov 2nd, 2006 03:44 am46th Post
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1/8" to 3/16" slack is exactly what the Honda manual calls for.  Sounds like you did a good job scot. 

Enjoy the ride.

Vic



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 Posted: Thu Nov 2nd, 2006 12:07 pm47th Post
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thx vic.

 

scot

Goldwinger1984
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 Posted: Thu Nov 2nd, 2006 02:12 pm48th Post
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u r welcome Scot

Vic



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 Posted: Thu Nov 2nd, 2006 04:49 pm49th Post
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Octane, AWSOME pics, I also assume this is the same for a 1985 1200. ??:baffled:

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 Posted: Fri Nov 3rd, 2006 12:15 am50th Post
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It should be about the same, but toss out the part numbers that Octane gave. The 1200 uses different belts, posibly different idler pully's, but Mother Honda should have the right part numbers.

Might I ask, where is the bolt that shows the timing marks in the engine? I'm slowly stripping my wing down to find all the good stuff. I guess all I have to do is find the hole, find the parts, and find my head and this job is done!



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 Posted: Fri Dec 15th, 2006 10:32 pm51st Post
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Thanks a Million!!!!! This is exactly what I need . Will be tackling  GL 1100 belts pretty soon. I,m %100 sure I can do this now. I,m pretty sure I would  of overtightened them or not made them the same on both sides.  Happy Holidays Dieseltu.



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 Posted: Sat Feb 10th, 2007 08:17 pm52nd Post
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JUST a bump for the guy doing his timimg belts.



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 Posted: Tue Mar 13th, 2007 10:47 pm53rd Post
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Another question. Should the gasket on the timing belt covers be replaced? Or, can you just seal it up with some type of sealer if it needs it?



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 Posted: Tue Mar 13th, 2007 10:51 pm54th Post
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The gasket is used mostly for dust control. If it is damaged, perhaps a dab of super glue can help.



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 Posted: Tue Mar 13th, 2007 10:52 pm55th Post
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I cleaned mine with soap and water and then laid a bead of silicone seal in the trough just before pressing the rubber back in place to hold it.

Then I put a thin film of silicone lubricant on the rubber facing out.



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 Posted: Thu Mar 22nd, 2007 08:53 pm56th Post
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I just did the 83 belts this weekend read through the forum. This is a great place to be..lots of stuff I would never have thought of.

If only we'd get some warm weather here in Massachusetts....

Thanks

Glenn



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 Posted: Tue Mar 27th, 2007 02:44 pm57th Post
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oops

Last edited on Tue Mar 27th, 2007 02:50 pm by RB



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QuienSabe
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 Posted: Sat Apr 14th, 2007 09:28 pm58th Post
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Where have the images in this thread gone? Nevermind, after a refresh they showed up dadgum computers. :)

Last edited on Sat Apr 14th, 2007 09:35 pm by QuienSabe



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 Posted: Sat Apr 14th, 2007 11:10 pm59th Post
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My belts are done. Thank you, thank you ,thank you. On to bigger and better things. Gas tank, rear shocks, trailer hitch.



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 Posted: Sun Apr 15th, 2007 02:26 am60th Post
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My belts are done too. And the beer really tastes good since all the marks finally lined up, and all the tensions look good. Now if this beer will calm my nerves. Tommorrow, I put the cover back on and start looking for a local radiator shop to test the radiator while she is off. Then I'll wait impatiently for the brake pads, fork seals and new tires to arrive.

Great thread and pictures, kudos, kudos, kudos.



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