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Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums > Forums > Reference and FAQ Forum > Changing GL1000 timing belts tutorial |
| Changing GL1000 timing belts tutorial |
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| Posted: Wed Apr 27th, 2011 09:44 pm | 161st Post |
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Look on the battery side on the top of the engine...There is a air hose that comes from the air box to the engine, look on the other side of that hose about 3" or maybe 4" on the top of the engine there will be cap that you put a large screwdriver to turn it....17mm for the crank cover cap on the rear of engine, 12mm for the crank and turn it clockwise only..Up..Not down..I always pull the plugs before I turn my crank.. Last edited on Wed Apr 27th, 2011 09:45 pm by littlebeaver |
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| Posted: Wed Apr 27th, 2011 10:14 pm | 162nd Post |
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thank you
____________________ i have no idea what the h#ll i am doing with this bike __________________________________________________ 1981 honda goldwing gl1100 |
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| Posted: Sun May 1st, 2011 10:47 pm | 163rd Post |
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Great detail. I noted the issue 20+ years ago when I pulled the stock belt covers off my first wing when I was installing chromes. Looked at the book and knew something was not right. There were a few others I have seen with one loose belt including a friends 88 when I was doing his belts. The case was worn into from the belt. Glad to see that this is well known now. Bill
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| Posted: Fri Jun 10th, 2011 10:12 am | 164th Post |
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Hi, thanks for this "how to" - worked just fine for me - excellent.
____________________ -------------------------- '83 GL1100 Aspencade '90 CBR1000F-L -------------------------- The definition of major trauma; "when the patient is transported in more than 1 ambulance" |
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| Posted: Tue Jun 21st, 2011 12:17 am | 165th Post |
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Hi, I found this tutorial really helpful, especially the tip about putting a spanner(wrench) on the right hand pulley and zip-tying it to the frame to keep the camshaft in position. Having fitted the belts, I started turning the crankshaft by hand to check that all was OK when I heard a metallic clank - it wasn't a valve hitting a piston, I'd forgotten to take the zip tie off
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| Posted: Sun Jul 17th, 2011 03:50 pm | 166th Post |
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Ok, I have a big question... I just followed this tutorial on an 82 GL1100. Worked perfectly except on the right side. When I lined up the arrows exactly, the belt was about a half tooth off from meshing correctly. I had to move the gear slightly to get the belt on. Is this normal? When the gear is in line with the mark on the left side and the timing is at TDC, the right gear is NOT perfectly lined up wi the arrow. Off just a hair. Like half tooth. If so, and it's normal, should I put the arrow above or below the mark?
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| Posted: Sun Jul 17th, 2011 10:39 pm | 167th Post |
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A half tooth off is no biggie, a lot of us get the same result.
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| Posted: Sun Jul 24th, 2011 10:54 pm | 168th Post |
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I temporarily removed the wire tie(On the wrench) put the belt on then replaced the wire tie to keep the gear in Position until I got it on and the tensioner loosely installed.
____________________ Never argue with an idiot. They will only bring you down to their level and beat you with experience every time. |
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| Posted: Sun Sep 11th, 2011 12:47 am | 169th Post |
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long bolt goes on left belt cover on the outside.hope this helps.hoghideman
____________________ hoghideman |
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| Posted: Sun Nov 6th, 2011 02:02 pm | 170th Post |
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Just a quick bump for a great topic. I may try this myself over the winter.
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| Posted: Sun Nov 6th, 2011 02:37 pm | 171st Post |
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Thylanes wrote:Just a quick bump for a great topic. I may try this myself over the winter. And no better time for it either. Turn the heater on, take your time and have the old bird ready for Spring.
____________________ Dave Heffernan. |
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| Posted: Fri Dec 2nd, 2011 10:14 pm | 172nd Post |
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Thanks so much for the detailed tutorial. While I started the task with some trepidation, the actual belt changing on my '83 Interstate proceeded with no surprises. This is a great forum and I look forward to future projects, thanks to you guys.
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| Posted: Sun Jan 22nd, 2012 09:28 pm | 173rd Post |
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I haven't read all the posts so please don't mind if someone already mentioned this. First I want to join to the others who thank Octane for this tutorial, it's really great. There is just one thing I would like to point out (actually it's been said in the workshop manual and Octane just copied it). It's about tensioning the belts. Manual says to use the wrench on the camshaft pulley bolt for this purpose (to pull the pulley counter-clockwise thus obtaining the force to stretch the belt and letting the tensioner spring to do its job). Pay attention that this way you are turning the bolt COUNTER-clockwise, so you are actually on a good way to loosen the bolt! OK, there is no much force used and it will normally not crack the bolt loosened, however,....you can never be 100% sure. We all know about the warnings not to turn the alternator bolt counterclockwise when turning the engine and this is not much different. I think that it is much safer option to use a flat screwdriver for this purpose. You put it through one of the holes in the camshaft pulley, rest the top of the screwdriver against a rib on the heat shield and use it as a lever to pull the pulley counterclockwise to stretch the belt. It's dead easy and you don't have to watch out not to loosen the bolt.
____________________ "There is no replacement for displacement" |
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| Posted: Mon Jan 30th, 2012 05:56 pm | 174th Post |
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I just did this swap thanks to the instructions provided here. Was really easy. I haven't read through all the thread, but I'll mention that my water pump housing cover had a stretched out o-ring. By that, I mean that it would not fit in the groove. It was a Saturday afternoon and I had to scrounge to find a used one. After I realized how close I was to the thermostat housing, I would have changed the thermostat as well. So, when getting ready to do this, I would recommend changing out the radiator hoses, water pump housing cover o-ring, thermostat (and whatever sealer it needs). Maybe figure on flushing the cooling system, too. When I drained my coolant, it looked great, so I didn't bother with a flush.
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| Posted: Sun Apr 8th, 2012 04:13 am | 175th Post |
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so i posted about changing my belts about a year ago, and still havnt changed them yet, ( just really scared to do it myself) and it is still running very well, but, i was told that i wouldnt have to do all of this taking the tesioner off and moving diffrent bolts to diffrent places, but that all i had to do was take off the cover, remove the belt check to see the marking are correct and them put back on the new belt, is this true?
____________________ i have no idea what the h#ll i am doing with this bike __________________________________________________ 1981 honda goldwing gl1100 |
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| Posted: Sun Apr 8th, 2012 04:14 am | 176th Post |
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i also kinda think this posting is great for somebody who has alot of money to replace the radiator hoses and thermostats and all the partain to the radiator, but i dont so i would rather go for the easiest way possible to get my belts done, without ruining my radiator and parts.
____________________ i have no idea what the h#ll i am doing with this bike __________________________________________________ 1981 honda goldwing gl1100 |
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| Posted: Sun Apr 8th, 2012 04:14 am | 177th Post |
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i also kinda think this posting is great for somebody who has alot of money to replace the radiator hoses and thermostats and all the partain to the radiator, but i dont so i would rather go for the easiest way possible to get my belts done, without ruining my radiator and parts.
____________________ i have no idea what the h#ll i am doing with this bike __________________________________________________ 1981 honda goldwing gl1100 |
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