| Changing GL1000 timing belts tutorial |
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| Posted: Thu Oct 19th, 2006 07:13 pm | 1st Post |
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Hi folks. I was contacted by my friend Whiskerfish, who I know from NakedGoldWings He mentioned that you could do with a 'how-to' change timing belts. I'd be more than happy to help a bunch of fellow Wingers so here it comes: --------------------------------------------------- Update by wingnut; Whiskerfish also kindly gave us the following tutorial in PDF format for anyone who wants to download it. It's 700kbs file size and you can CLICK HERE to download it. --------------------------------------------------- This thread is for a 77 GL1000 NOTE: Any reference to Right means 'right' as seen from sitting on the bike NOT as you see it on the pictures Any reference to Left means 'left' as seen from sitting on the bike NOT as you see it on the pictures The [T-1] mark means the T mark on the crank under witch you'll find a [F] and the number [1 ] What you need: ..a set of timing belts part #14400-371-04/14400-371-14 for the early models (later models 78-79 have different number ...mmmm???) or alternatively Randakk suggests: Gates #T274 NAPA #250274 Goodyear Gatorback #40274 (available at AutoZone and others) ..a 12 mm ring spanner with a decent 'offset' (more on that later)  ...and maybe a set of 'tension rollers' part # 14510-371-008 (they are about 60$ a piece (!!!)) Oh yeah; you need to remove the radiator...well not strictly, but I wouldn't want to do this job without removing it...no way! Remove front covers:  ...remove spark plugs (you don't wonna turn the engine with the plugs in position.-) ...remove generator bolt cap  so you can get in there with your offset 12mm rings spanner.(This is where it needs to be offset) This is the way the engine/crank will be turned during this procedure. ...remove timing mark cap  turn engine as described above until the T-1 mark aligns with engine block marks (it looks a little 'out' on the photo. It's the angle) AND (this is important) the pulley marks aligns with the marks on the engine cover like here on LEFT side (seen from sitting on bike..remember)  and RIGHT side 
Last edited on Wed Oct 15th, 2008 11:59 pm by |
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| Posted: Thu Oct 19th, 2006 07:14 pm | 2nd Post |
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....mark this position on the central pulley and engine block ...now release the tentioner bolts (*)  and remove the belt(*)  ..when you do that(*) the right pulley (photo-left) will 'wander/turn' out of position when you remove the belt, as it is 'riding' on cam 'slope' (witch is under the influence of the valve springs). Don't worry: one thing you can do to calm your nerves and keep it in position: put the new belt loosely over the pulley and ...holding the pulley in the CORRECT POSITION (marks aligned) 'strip' a spanner to the frame,  ...do not use the spanner to turn the pulley. Use your hands ...then 'lock' it with the spanner. (make absolutely sure you did not turn (release) the bolt)
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| Posted: Thu Oct 19th, 2006 07:15 pm | 3rd Post |
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...release left tensioner bolts  ..remove belt ..put on new belt Check the tensioners or 'tension roller'. You may think they are 'fine' : they 'roll' and don't make funny sounds? You wont know until you've had a set of new rollers in your hands: They should be real 'tight' as a set of new roller bearings...witch I think they are, in fact. If they appear 'dry' or make any sounds; re-new and get rid of that high pitched whining sound associated with 'dry' rollers. ..this is how they go in left side (photo-right)  and the spring attaches  ...pulleys in correct position (both crank pulley and cam pulley) ...belt tight at the bottom ...tension roller loosely attached (let the spring do the tension. On photo it is not on yet...ooops)  ..check crank marks again  and check cam pulley marks again 
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| Posted: Thu Oct 19th, 2006 07:17 pm | 4th Post |
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...attach right tension roller (goes on like this)  and put on new belt ...check marks again  and re-re check crank marks Now the new belts are on and tensioner roller bolts are not yet tightened. Now for 'adjusting' the belt tension: LEFT side: (right photo-side) check what mother Honda says:  NOTE: the spring pressure automatically positions the tensioner ...so no 'extra' pressure' on the tensioner before tightening the tensioner back plate bolts!!! ..easy! But how about the RIGHT side with that cam pulley being forced into a roll by the cam lobe. Mothership Honda is not telling! There's been much talk in the forum about how to get the same tension on the right belt, and now I've finally found the perfect procedure/explanation in "Motorcycle Mechanics" magazine from February 1978 (!!!) I that nerdy....or what?! ho ha "To tension the right hand..[snip]..the engine should be turned through 360 degrees and the little arrows on the cam-wheels should then face inwards...   ...this is by the way, with the engine once more positioned at "T1".(*) You then do the same trick with the tensioner (and the spanner as per Honda) locking it up after the spring has done its job" Voila! (*) this might sound a bit confusing but remember: it takes 2 revolutions of the crank shaft for each revolution of the cam shaft. Now: re-check everything..all marks Turn the engine by hand a few times just to make sure the valves and pistons don't hit each other in case a mistake was made. ..and re-check Do yourself (or future owners) a favor and mark down the time and km/miles for the belt replacement  Check/re-adjust valve clearance and check/re-adjust ignition timing New belts CAN move the ignition timing a much as a few degrees according to Randakk. Live happily ever after! Best regards Octane
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| Posted: Thu Oct 19th, 2006 08:10 pm | 5th Post |
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Thanks a lot Octane, excellent posting. That should help a lot of first timers. The only thing I could add would be a warning to turn the engine over twice with the plugs out once the job was finished just to make sure the valves and pistons didn't hit each other in case a mistake was made. Hey Wingnut or Axe can we get this fine posting stuck into the Biker's Workshop page? Last edited on Thu Oct 19th, 2006 08:13 pm by exavid ____________________ If you can't ride, fly or sail it, why bother? 2001 Goldwing 1800 Paul W. |
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| Posted: Thu Oct 19th, 2006 08:36 pm | 6th Post |
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exavid wrote: Thanks a lot Octane, excellent posting. That should help a lot of first timers. The only thing I could add would be a warning to turn the engine over twice with the plugs out once the job was finished just to make sure the valves and pistons didn't hit each other in case a mistake was made. You're welcome Exavid. I've added/highlighted the warning. Regards Octane
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| Posted: Thu Oct 19th, 2006 09:07 pm | 7th Post |
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I agree with Exavid--an excellent write up with outstanding pics. Would be hard to improve on that.
____________________ Hawker22(Ken) Per Ardua Ad Astra 1997 GL1500SE--White Cloud 2001 GL1800----Blue Yonder |
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| Posted: Thu Oct 19th, 2006 11:40 pm | 8th Post |
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Ya he's pretty good for a foreigner All kidding aside Octane is one of the best we have on the Naked Forum and many of us rely on him to help solve our most baffling issues.  And when it comes to 4 Cylinder Gold Wing Trivia I challenge you all to stump him!! He may not have written the books but he has everyone memorized! 
____________________ Whiskerfish 1978/9 Dressed daily rider 45k miles 1975 Nekid Noisy and Nasty 1975 Nekid in pieces parts |
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| Posted: Fri Oct 20th, 2006 12:50 am | 9th Post |
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Excellent post indeed!! Is it similar when doing it on a 81 GL1100? 
____________________ Don Please help keep the Cancer Candle burning!!! |
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| Posted: Fri Oct 20th, 2006 02:36 am | 10th Post |
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Very well done Octane. The only thing that I could possibly add is a measurement for belt slack for guys like me that don't always trust the spring tension. 1/8" to 3/16" belt slack is just about right with the crank is at T1 and the left pulley at the UP position. After the left belt is adjusted you then spin the engine 360 degrees to get the UP mark on the right pulley facing downward then adjust the belt tension to the above mentioned slack. That measurement is taken at the center point between the two pulleys and you just use two fingers to lightly flex the belt up and down. Vic
____________________ http://www.gl1200goldwings.com/ A place for GL1200's to gather. |
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| Posted: Fri Oct 20th, 2006 03:41 am | 11th Post |
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Hey Octane, I got my wing this August. First thing I did was put new belts on her. With the aid of this forum I found the belts at NAPA and with the aid of Clymers and a Haynes manual I did it. I felt a sense of accomplishment. I changed my belts!! Now you come along and show everyone how to do it! Thanks to your post, any moron should be able to change their own timing belts!! Seriously, an excellent post! Thanks for sharing. I wish I had read your post before I changed mine. The notion of manually turning the engine over to make sure nothing hits - brilliant! Much better than pushing the starter button with crossed fingers. Fortunately this alternate technique worked for me and all is OK. Thanks again
____________________ Scepticism is the chastity of the intellect, and it is shameful to surrender it too soon or to the first comer. George Santayana. |
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| Posted: Fri Oct 20th, 2006 09:53 am | 12th Post |
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Whiskerfish wrote: Ya he's pretty good for a foreigner Foreigner????...who?...not me. I'm Danish...everybody else are foreigners.-) Thanks WF! ..and thanks y'all! As to how this will work on later models, somebody else will have to chip in, as I know very very little about them. Regards Octane Last edited on Fri Oct 20th, 2006 09:54 am by Octane |
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| Posted: Fri Oct 20th, 2006 02:16 pm | 13th Post |
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puttitin wrote: Excellent post indeed!! It is the same for GL1000 and GL1100. I used Octanes how to when I did my GL1100 a year ago and thanks to that success, I did my GL1000 when I bought it this summer. Octane - Glad you posted your how-to here for the Steve Saunders gang. I know it took considerable time to create your post here and the effort is appreciated. ThanX Last edited on Fri Oct 20th, 2006 02:17 pm by BobbyW ____________________ -2007 GL1800, Audio, Blue -1981 GL1100 Standard FOR SALE Hondaline Luggage/Vetter Fairing -1978 GL1000, Nekid, Black List your Wings Model and year in your profile !!! |
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| Posted: Fri Oct 20th, 2006 06:56 pm | 14th Post |
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No Goldwinger is a foreigner!
____________________ If you can't ride, fly or sail it, why bother? 2001 Goldwing 1800 Paul W. |
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| Posted: Fri Oct 20th, 2006 08:26 pm | 15th Post |
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Which Goldwinger is a foreigner? 1984 or another? If you're talking about me Exavid I'm on the same North American continent that you live on. Vic
____________________ http://www.gl1200goldwings.com/ A place for GL1200's to gather. |
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| Posted: Sat Oct 21st, 2006 01:48 am | 16th Post |
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I think this started with me making a joke about my friend Octane?? He is a Dane. No offense meant to any "Other" Foreigners Just him
____________________ Whiskerfish 1978/9 Dressed daily rider 45k miles 1975 Nekid Noisy and Nasty 1975 Nekid in pieces parts |
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| Posted: Sat Oct 21st, 2006 03:48 am | 17th Post |
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I'm a '57 transplant from SoCal so I "really" am a foreigner to the rest of the planet.
____________________ Ken S. - Old and one legged... But then again the 84 Interstate ain't what it used to be either. Previous Bikes: 1983 Interstate 1975 GL1000 WJ III, Bates Bags, ARE Boot (115K) 2 1972 Yamaha Enduros |
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| Posted: Sat Oct 21st, 2006 10:17 pm | 18th Post |
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hi and thanks for your [how to] on the changing of timing belts. i noticed that the thread referred to the gw1000. since i have a 1984 standard i was wondering if these instructions pertained also to the 1200 standards. thanx scot.
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| Posted: Sat Oct 21st, 2006 10:25 pm | 19th Post |
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Scot, the process is essentially the very same as above for the GL1200. The only difference being that the belts for the GL1000 and GL1100 are different than the belts for the GL1200. Vic
____________________ http://www.gl1200goldwings.com/ A place for GL1200's to gather. |
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| Posted: Sat Oct 21st, 2006 11:35 pm | 20th Post |
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hey vi, thx for your speedy reply. do you know if the napa belts 250070 can be used for the belt/belts changing as i am about to plunge into that project. changing oil can you use castrol synthetic 5-50 wt oil on the gw [wet clutch and all] you hear so much pro and con on the oil subject. thx scot
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