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Wendell
Guru
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Posted: Thu Jul 19th, 2007 02:13 am | 1st Post |
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After buying a 1985 Honda Rebel for my better half, I decided to try a restoration. The seller claims it had only sat outside for the past few months. It started (only after I had to step in and drain the carb bowl and show her that it had to be set at reserve since she only put about 1/4 gallon of gas in it) and ran without a knock, engine has only 9k on it. Anyway, we have cleaned and repainted the frame and tackled the rims. The front was pretty bad, the rear was minimal. Here is how we did the work.
Using a wire brush on a drill, we removed as much of the rust as possible.
Next, we used an oven cleaner to remove grease from the spindles, sprocket, etc, and washed down with soap and water, using rags stuffed into the bearings to keep water out. I ended up using a pressure washer to get the areas cleaned of anything loose that was out of reach of the brush.
Next, we used good old navel jelly and a small paste brush to apply it directly onto the rusty area only. After a few minutes, we washed it off and washed the areas again with soap and water.
After everything is thoroughly dry, I sprayed a product called Kleen Strip Rust Converter (found at the local body shop supply house). It actually changed the rust into a paintable primer (through a chemical reaction). The rust actually changed into a black color. I decided against the product by LocTite called Extend since it stated that it would cause rust on bare metal. The product says that rust must be present to work. That did not appeal to me. When this was done, it has to dry for 24 hours before painting.
The next evening, I applied an enamal spray, Chromed Aluminum, over the hubs and spokes. I opted not to mask over the chrome rims, instead, I used Xylene to clean the oversray and touch up where the paint was removed by the cleaner, using a small paint brush. I also opted not to clearcoat the spokes or hubs as it would make it hard to remove any rust and repaint without needing to remove the clearcoat. This paint should do well over time.
Here are some before and after photos. We forgot to get a before photo of the rear rim. They look fantastic!
Before:
After
Rear Rim After:
Hope this is of some help to those with the same problem!
 Wendell
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exavid
Top Poster
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Posted: Thu Jul 19th, 2007 03:44 am | 2nd Post |
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Lookin' good Wendell!
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Wendell
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Posted: Thu Jul 19th, 2007 10:38 am | 3rd Post |
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| Thanks exavid, we are both very pleased as how they turned out. I also forgot to mention that this took three days to complete. If we had hurried it, chances are, the rust would return with a vengence! Wendell
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IRAQI RAM
Senior Member
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Posted: Thu Jul 19th, 2007 02:46 pm | 4th Post |
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Really nice job. I have some plastic trim pieces that I've been holding off on taking to the plater. But first I wanted to try that chrome enamal spray at Pep Boys before I spend mucho dinero the plater probably wants. My whole dilemma was I didn't want to ruin them with the spray can chrome and then have the plater charge extra for cleaning them up. Glad to see someone here tried that stuff before I did. It looks good, I guess I'll give it a try.
Any idea if spraying clear afterwards will make it shinier?
Thanks.
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Wendell
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Posted: Thu Jul 19th, 2007 09:49 pm | 5th Post |
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The paint I used looks more like aluminum. Clear coating would probably be okay, but if you use, say, bumper chrome paint, then tyhe clear coat would definitely cause the chrome appearance to dull quite a bit. How do I know?  What I would recommend is to take your paint and apply it to something plastic (such as a cheap plastic toy, let it dry, then clearcoat it, and see what it does. Good luck! Wendell
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wingnut
Admin
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Posted: Fri Mar 14th, 2008 07:25 pm | 6th Post |
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Nice work Wendell. I'm moving this to the Reference forum now. 
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Steve Saunders,
Admin and Founder Member.
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