| GL1100 Cooling fan thermal switch | Rate Topic |
| Moderators: redbaron, MDKramer, Flyone, AZgl1500 | Page:   1 2 3 4 5 6 7   |
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| Posted: Wed Aug 6th, 2008 07:15 pm | 61st Post |
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Cool! I Like it. NightRider1
____________________ You meet the BEST people who ride a Goldwing |
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| Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 03:31 am | 62nd Post |
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I also have a bad thermo switch on my 82 interstate. until recently, I thought the fan was always suppose to run. Question: Does it hurt anything if the fan is always running? This looks like something I can pull off it needs to be fixed.
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| Posted: Mon Sep 15th, 2008 05:37 am | 63rd Post |
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The only issue I would have with allowing the fan to run all the time is that the charging system is not the best on the 1100's so if you leave it running all the time you could run your battery down. My fan usually only runs after I have been in stop and go traffic for more than 20 min. Peter
____________________ 75 GL1000 81 GL1100 85 GL1200A 75 550F |
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| Posted: Thu Oct 2nd, 2008 02:13 am | 64th Post |
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Hey There; Mine also has been running since i bought it, I thought the former owner had rigged it that way, will a thermostat fix it or do I have to change the them sensor deal has well? also can you or someone tell me is the dang horn & turn switch on same fuse, befor I changed starter relay, starter & batt plus did the valve adj. I hooke up my horns since the four wires were disconnected, when i tried to use um, the turns no longer beeped they do now , but then they blew the fuse! so I diconnected the horns I want t o add an air or just yank one off my Van, still have both horns they look fairly new, could it be they just were'nt grounded well? kinda stumped! Thank's Bigrick
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| Posted: Thu Oct 2nd, 2008 02:17 am | 65th Post |
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remeber I said i did get my valves done, I did but still have a tiny tick, sometimes it drops off has oil pressure is up, should i still has a rookie go back in and try to fine tune evn more, and will a older wing ever be super quiet like the new one's? I wish there was someone up here in Saint Paul who did this and could give me some help lol. Peace!
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| Posted: Thu Oct 2nd, 2008 10:51 pm | 66th Post |
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mrbigrick wrote: Hey There; The Thermo switch is on the right front side of the thermostat housing. See the very first posting in this thread for a picture. Pull the connector off of the Thermo switch if this stops the fan then the Thermo switch needs to be replaced. If the fan keeps running then it has been hard wired some place and you will have to trace it down. I would start with the connector where the fan motor connects to the wiring harness right near the coils. Peter Last edited on Thu Oct 2nd, 2008 10:52 pm by Peterbylt ____________________ 75 GL1000 81 GL1100 85 GL1200A 75 550F |
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| Posted: Fri Nov 14th, 2008 02:11 pm | 67th Post |
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Advanced auto carry`s this one pretty cheap http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=BAR&MfrPartNumber=2011614&PartType=889&PTSet=A Gave 94 geo metro & part says suzuki ??? They don`t carry Borg warner , i`ll try someone else OK pepboys carry`s BWD http://c2c.activant.com/ctoc/index.jsp?ID=aEz1rACw.Pnx6LFN9CU4Ke2dHGzIAZFEAUT0A $43.99 Last edited on Fri Nov 14th, 2008 02:34 pm by confish86 ____________________ 76 Goldwing (naked) 83 CX650C 07 Yamaha FJR ABS! (rocket) ?? next goldwing |
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| Posted: Thu Jan 29th, 2009 07:28 am | 68th Post |
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Nice! Nightrider1
____________________ You meet the BEST people who ride a Goldwing |
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| Posted: Mon Feb 9th, 2009 05:05 pm | 69th Post |
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I've installed the Geo switch but I also cut the pigtail out of the Geo's wiring harness and adapted it into the wings system. The diameter of the wire is smaller on the Geo switch verses the diameter of the wire on the wing. The difference in wire diameter may have something to do with question of load ( ie: relay/no relay ) or maybe not, but I don't have the answer. Nor do I know how this switch functions in the Geo's system with or without a relay. On checking the 77 wiring diagram, when this thermo switch closes ( motor heats up )it completes the circuit to ground on one side of the fan and the fan starts. That's all it does. The wiring doesn't go through any relays. I don't know if this has any bearing on the situation but the orginal wing thermo switch has variable resistance whereas the Geo is just an on/off type. When I was testing the Geo switch ( out of the engine) I got about the same amount of resistance at the contacts as you are supposed to get at the wing thermo switch in the same temperature range.( when fan starts ) My wing switch quit working over the winter so I wasn't able to compare their readings. Any more ideas out there. My neighbour is an excellent auto/skidoo/drag racer and you name it mechanic so I'm going to ask him about this and get his thoughts.
____________________ 1977 GL1000 Restoration - Now up & running. Previous bikes - 1980 XJ650, XT500, GS550, 77 GL1000 & a few more. |
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| Posted: Mon Feb 9th, 2009 05:51 pm | 70th Post |
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cycleman wrote: I don't know if this has any bearing on the situation but the orginal wing thermo switch has variable resistance whereas the Geo is just an on/off type. When I was testing the Geo switch ( out of the engine) I got about the same amount of resistance at the contacts as you are supposed to get at the wing thermo switch in the same temperature range.( when fan starts ) My wing switch quit working over the winter so I wasn't able to compare their readings. Disregard the above portion of my previous post. This applies to the temperature gauge sensor. l
____________________ 1977 GL1000 Restoration - Now up & running. Previous bikes - 1980 XJ650, XT500, GS550, 77 GL1000 & a few more. |
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| Posted: Mon Feb 9th, 2009 07:12 pm | 71st Post |
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Hey Peterbylt...how about an update on that switch??
____________________ P.G.R. Member ID: 88374 http://www.patriotguard.org Our Soldiers are what make us strong. Without them there would be no USA. |
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| Posted: Tue Feb 10th, 2009 03:56 am | 72nd Post |
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Broke Winger wrote: Hey Peterbylt...how about an update on that switch?? Its been over 15,000 miles and the switch is still functioning perfectly. If I get stuck in traffic for a while it will kick on the fan when the temp gauge gets a little over a third of the way up, I am not sure exactly when it shuts off because its after I get rolling again. On a side note when it actually got cold down here last week (45F) I flipped on the manual bypass switch for the first time since putting the thermoswitch in, Just so the fan would blow hot air on my legs while sitting at a traffic light. Peter
____________________ 75 GL1000 81 GL1100 85 GL1200A 75 550F |
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| Posted: Tue Feb 10th, 2009 11:36 pm | 73rd Post |
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Sounds good to me!
____________________ P.G.R. Member ID: 88374 http://www.patriotguard.org Our Soldiers are what make us strong. Without them there would be no USA. |
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| Posted: Fri Feb 13th, 2009 11:28 pm | 74th Post |
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I am replacing my switch and found a few things. Autozone has a switch for a Geo metro for $28.00, has to order. Not for sure it's the one I need. CarQuest, $40.00, and they can't find one. Napa, for a Geo Metro was $22 and they could get today, went to get it and it was the smaller size, clearly would not fit, they can get the Echlin FS-130 and it looks to be the right one, I will have it tomorrow, $42.00 Local Honda Dealer says the part is discontinued and is looking nation wide, no price yet. Honda online, $64.00 they do not stock and will ship from a honda dealer, but no promise. I don't want to put in a toggle switch so I hope the Napa part works.
____________________ It's not what you buy, it's what you build. Victory Riders CMA Road Captain: http://www.cmausa.org/default.asp http://stronger.startlogic.com/index.html Illinios Chapter Wild Rinos Member |
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| Posted: Sat Feb 14th, 2009 01:35 am | 75th Post |
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I found a switch on ebay with the thermostat housing and thermo sensor for $20, it came off a 82 with 21k miles and garage kept. I bought it and it should be here next week.
____________________ It's not what you buy, it's what you build. Victory Riders CMA Road Captain: http://www.cmausa.org/default.asp http://stronger.startlogic.com/index.html Illinios Chapter Wild Rinos Member |
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| Posted: Tue Feb 24th, 2009 07:48 am | 76th Post |
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I have had about 8 Metros/Fireflys from 1989-2007, still have the 2007. the wiring has not changed much at all. The cooling fan motors on these cars is controled by a relay, which is controled but the switch in question. Thus the switch is designed to handle a small currant load. It will work directly controling the motor. The $64 question is for how long before it fails? For my money and piece of mind I would install a simple Boshe, Hela, or any other 4 or 5 pin relay that is rated for a minimun of 15 amps, 20 would be even better and would most likly last a life time. The weather pack conectors are avalible from GM dealers for the switch and would make a nice clean fix. (A auto wrecker could supply as well, along with the switch) I will try to get the GM# and post it. The sevice manual shows two options for switchs, one stamped "A", the other "B". "A" closes (turns on) at 208F (98C) and opens (turns off) at 199F (93C). "B" closes at 215F (102C) and opens at 206F (97C). NOTE reguarding any circuit. Currant draw will be constant through out the circuit while it is complete or on. The main voltage drop will occure through the motor or device. Currant is the flow of electrons so the ground side of the circuit has to handle the same amount of currant as the positive side. check out your car battery, you will find that for the most part both the positive and negitive cables are the same size. The exception is when the lenth of the cable comes into play, longer cables have more resitance (resistance to the flow of electrons) than shorter cables, so there for the shorter cable can be of a smaller size and have the same over all resistance as the longer larger cable. Great site, Hope this helps. Shimmy 
____________________ SHIMMY, CHILLIWACK B.C. CANADA GRAND MASTER GM TECH. LOVE PLAYING WITH BIKES CT90&YAMAHA BIG BEAR, NOW 81 GL11OO |
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| Posted: Tue Feb 24th, 2009 07:23 pm | 77th Post |
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cycleman wrote: I've installed the Geo switch but I also cut the pigtail out of the Geo's wiring harness and adapted it into the wings system. The diameter of the wire is smaller on the Geo switch verses the diameter of the wire on the wing. I've given this some more thought & done a little more research into the lack of or need for a relay. Lots of good info in the car aftermarket world. The diameter of the wire on the Geo pigtail is noticably smaller which to me screams for a relay. The original wing wiring is of a heavier gauge and no doubt will carry more amps. The reason to put a relay in is to protect the thermo switch ( which is more expensive than a relay ) from self distructing as well as protecting the electrical system. It seems to me that a high percentage of these bikes have fan not running problems due to the failure of the thermo switch not the fan itself. To me that means the weak link is the thermo switch. Installing a relay will drastically reduce the amps that are being drawn through the thermo switch. I've been convinced and I'm going wire a relay into my system which will remove the fan & thermo switch from the existing wiring.
____________________ 1977 GL1000 Restoration - Now up & running. Previous bikes - 1980 XJ650, XT500, GS550, 77 GL1000 & a few more. |
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| Posted: Wed Feb 25th, 2009 01:51 pm | 78th Post |
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cycleman wrote: cycleman wrote:I've installed the Geo switch but I also cut the pigtail out of the Geo's wiring harness and adapted it into the wings system. The diameter of the wire is smaller on the Geo switch verses the diameter of the wire on the wing. Now that would be a great how too, & pics & diagram would help & what size relay you will be using .
____________________ 76 Goldwing (naked) 83 CX650C 07 Yamaha FJR ABS! (rocket) ?? next goldwing |
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| Posted: Thu Mar 5th, 2009 07:24 pm | 79th Post |
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Further to all the other posts on the fan switch with respect to the GEO switch. Well another part number this one from a Honda Car. It's a BWD TFS600. It fits a lot of Honda Cars, has the same thread as on the GL1000 and switches at 199 F. Go to BWD's site & query the part number for list of vehicles. The GEO switch mentioned throughout all these various articles switches at 208 F. On my bike's temp gauge it turns the fan on at about 5/8 to 3/4 of the way into the operating range. A little too hot for my liking. I'm going to put the TFS600 in my wing & take the GEO one out. I've been to a wrecker & got a pigtail from a Honda that I will wire through a relay. The diameter of the wire on the Honda pigtail makes it clear to me that it was designed for a relay. The relay I'm going to use is rated for 30 amp. The way the relay works the thermo switch will only draw 1 amp when switched on/closed. The fan will draw whatever it needs. If you wire it directly as the old one was, the switch would have 6-7 amps going through it. There are various ways to wire relays and I would suggest that you just follow the example given with the relay you buy. The one I have also has a non switched 12 volt output lead that you could use for another purpose.
____________________ 1977 GL1000 Restoration - Now up & running. Previous bikes - 1980 XJ650, XT500, GS550, 77 GL1000 & a few more. |
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| Posted: Mon Mar 9th, 2009 03:28 pm | 80th Post |
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Further update. I put the TFS600 fan switch into the bike and then wired it through a 30 amp relay. When you go the relay route you have to bypass all the old wiring for the fan/thermo switch combination. Take the main power lead from the battery through a 10 amp fuse. You can put a bigger fuse in but seeing as fan is only supposed to draw max of 4 amps, a 10 amp should work fine. You can use the blue wire that goes to the fan for your 1 amp switched circuit to the thermo switch side of the relay. Just unplug the fan & use a connector and run it through a 1 amp fuse to the relay. That way the fan won't come on with key off. You'll also have to come up with a couple of ground wires, one each for thermo switch & fan. Now for the results. I'm running a Stant 180 degree thermostat that is designed for Honda cars. ( This was the same thermostat for both the Geo & Honda car thermo switch project. ) With the NFS600 switch when I started the bike & let it warm up the fan will now come on at a point at about two or three needle widths into the operating temp range of the gauge. When the fan comes on it drops the gauge down to about 1 needle width into the temp range. I let the fan cycle off and on a few times then shut the bike off. It stayed in this temp range throughout. I watched the overflow tank to see how much the antifreeze expanded as the bike came to operating temp. The expansion was half of what it was with the Geo thermo switch. ( In otherwords engine didn't get as hot. ) In conclusion. 1. There is a lot of messing around once you go away from the stock set up. I think if you like to tinker than doing what I did is fine. Like most things I don't know that it is better, however the bike does run cooler than it did with the old thermostat & Honda GL1000 thermo switch, also with new thermostat & Geo switch. I never liked having the engine run in the upper/top of the operating temp range of the gauge when in parade mode or around town. I'm pretty sure the fan will run more with this set up but the operating temp should stay in a narrower range. 2. If you don't like to tinker, put the orginal thermo switch back in. I couldn't find one up here so that's why I did what I did. 3. On a cost basis both set ups end up costing about the same, by the time you buy all the pieces for the aftermarket setup. I will post another update once I can ride outside in the real world. It was minus -25 C this morning. As a sidebar note the TFS600 fan switch is the same one that is in my 2006 Honda CRV. So should work fine in the bike.
____________________ 1977 GL1000 Restoration - Now up & running. Previous bikes - 1980 XJ650, XT500, GS550, 77 GL1000 & a few more. |
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