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Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums > Forums > Reference and FAQ Forum > GL1100 Cooling fan thermal switch

GL1100 Cooling fan thermal switch  Rate Topic  
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 Posted: Mon Mar 9th, 2009 04:16 pm 81st Post
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tricky
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I have an aftermarket fan on my 85 which draws 4.0 amp but becuase of the initial startup of the motor the manufacturer recommends installing a 30 amp fuse.
Sounds like over kill but thats what they recommend.



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 Posted: Mon Mar 9th, 2009 04:16 pm 82nd Post
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tricky
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edited.

Last edited on Mon Mar 9th, 2009 04:17 pm by tricky



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 Posted: Mon Mar 9th, 2009 06:08 pm 83rd Post
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terry_208
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You guys are talking over my head. Please correct me if I'm wrong. The purpose of a relay is to lessen the load (current flow) through the switch. i.e. If a size 6 wire is required to energize something by using a relay a size 18 wire is used from/to switch to activate the relay which is a larger switch capable of handling the higher voltage. How far off base am I? I'm just trying to learn. Thanks Terry

 Posted: Mon Mar 9th, 2009 06:17 pm 84th Post
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cycleman
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The 10 amp fuse I have in the system works fine so far. The relay is capable of taking a 30 amp load and I used #12 wire from relay to battery so it will take more load if I need it. I used a 10 amp fuse as a good starting point.

The original thermo fan switch in the 1000 was rated for 7 amps and the fan motor has a max draw of about 4 amps. Therefore the 10 amp fuse allows more leway than the original thermo switch did. I don't imagine there was much difference in these numbers between the 1000,1100,1200.

I've kind of theorized that part of the alternator problems in these older bikes was due to the fact that the fan load was handled off the main 30 amp fuse by the battery. The fan system had no separate fuses. When one hears tails of the connectors melting, that indicates to me that there is a pretty good amp draw going on to allow this to happen. The fan could potentially have contributed to this problem.

If the bike is blowing the 10 amp fuse I've put in than I'll have to check the fan motor as something is out of wack. Being as the original thermo switch was rated for 7 amps and lasted for in access of 30 yrs., my guess is that the fan doesn't draw any more than the 4 amps. I understand what you are talking about on the fan's startup but it must be below the 7 amps or it never would have lasted. My problem is that I've not been able to find any info on how much current the newer style switches will take as all these newer thermo fan switches are run through relays. The relay takes the high load off the switch.

Last edited on Tue Mar 10th, 2009 02:46 pm by cycleman



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 Posted: Mon Mar 9th, 2009 06:20 pm 85th Post
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cycleman
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terry_208 wrote: You guys are talking over my head. Please correct me if I'm wrong. The purpose of a relay is to lessen the load (current flow) through the switch. i.e. If a size 6 wire is required to energize something by using a relay a size 18 wire is used from/to switch to activate the relay which is a larger switch capable of handling the higher voltage. How far off base am I? I'm just trying to learn. Thanks Terry
Give yourself some credit. You are 100 % correct. The relay limits the amps through the switch.



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 Posted: Mon Mar 9th, 2009 06:31 pm 86th Post
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terry_208
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Cycleman,
Thank-you. I wasn't sure I was understanding. Terry

 Posted: Tue Mar 10th, 2009 12:58 pm 87th Post
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plainmech
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just bought after market switch off ebay 43.00 hope it's good i'll let yous know:action:



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 Posted: Tue Apr 7th, 2009 06:39 pm 88th Post
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plainmech
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600 miles works as advertised, so far so good:action::waving:



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 Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 04:19 am 89th Post
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confish86
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plainmech wrote: just bought after market switch off ebay 43.00 hope it's good i'll let yous know:action:

Can you tell us what company sells them. (i hope not sabercycle)



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 Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 01:51 pm 90th Post
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plainmech
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jerry's cycles shipped fast switch works as advertised. he mentioned he's leaving ebay but his web site is http://www.jerryscycles.com wasn't sure about posting a seller but he did right by me. hope this helps:waving:



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 Posted: Wed Apr 15th, 2009 04:42 pm 91st Post
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cycleman
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Update on TFS600 thermo switch.

Was able to go for a ride yesterday. It was pretty cool so when running down the highway the temp gauge needle stayed right at the beginning of the wide white line. When in the city running slow the temp would come up about 2 widths of the needle & then the fan would come on.

This switch may be set to come on too low, as there is no doubt the bike will run cooler, but the fan will run a lot more once we get to the hot weather.



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 Posted: Wed Apr 15th, 2009 04:48 pm 92nd Post
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dan filipi
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It's coming on too soon, the fan will no doubt run almost continuos in hot weather which is going to rob power for the rest of the electrical system.



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 Posted: Thu Apr 16th, 2009 11:03 pm 93rd Post
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cycleman
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Yes I agree.

I only have the stock equipment the bike came with, nothing else so it will be manageable. I believe the operation range of the switch is similar to the ones designed for hotter climates. I know there is one that comes on earlier than stock.



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 Posted: Tue Apr 21st, 2009 04:13 am 94th Post
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cycleman
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Further update.

I finally located a BW TFS596 switch that comes on at 95-100 or about 208 F. I picked up the cross reference to this one as the BW one wasn't available. Installed in bike this afternoon. This one works much better fan comes on just above the half way mark on big white line in gauge.

You need a 24 mm deep socket to put this one in. It's designed for the Suziki Swift 92-94 but uses the same pigtail as the Geo ( which I had ). I'm pretty sure this one is for the turbo version as it comes on earlier than the stock Geo unit does. Run this one through a relay as well as the wires are very small diameter. I run mine through a relay with a 1 amp fuse.

Plan on trying it on the road tommorrow.



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 Posted: Sun Apr 26th, 2009 10:19 am 95th Post
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Wayne Dutton
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Which manufacturer makes the BW TFS596 you cross referenced?



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 Posted: Sun Apr 26th, 2009 02:21 pm 96th Post
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Isn`t the Geo metro & the swift made by the same company. Kind of like years ago the Mitsubishi & the Hyndia were the same car just different name tags. When i looked the part up at Pep boys it came up for the suzuki. (is it Beck/Arnley part #201-1614) or (Stewert Werner 648 from autozone)

Last edited on Sun Apr 26th, 2009 02:33 pm by confish86



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 Posted: Tue Apr 28th, 2009 02:52 am 97th Post
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Wayne Dutton wrote: Which manufacturer makes the BW TFS596 you cross referenced?
I believe it was Blue Streak. They are owned by Borg Warner.



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 Posted: Wed May 27th, 2009 04:14 am 98th Post
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peterbilt
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why dont you buy the oem plug adapter and make a weather pack plug only costs a few dollars and it would probably help take away some of the current draw from connecting to sensor, wire jumper, and gold wing oem adapter a few extra minutes and you could have a tight plug in that will not vibrate or fall off it would suck at 75mph and look down and your temp is at max...... somethin to think about



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 Posted: Wed May 27th, 2009 04:16 am 99th Post
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peterbilt
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i think i'll run to a salvage yard and pick up the sensor in wire loom adapter for free



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 Posted: Mon Jun 15th, 2009 07:34 pm 100th Post
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BenMC
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peterbilt wrote: i think i'll run to a salvage yard and pick up the sensor in wire loom adapter for free
How did that work out for you?



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