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GL1100 Cooling fan thermal switch  Rate Topic  
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 Posted: Sat Sep 19th, 2009 04:08 am 101st Post
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littlebeaver
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I found out something interesting, the TFS596 from Advance auto was in stock and I tried it on my 81 gl, I found that it came on too soon, it kicked the fan on about 3/8 the way up the gauge or just under halfway and then wouldn't kick off, so I tried the xfi  engine model fan switch for the 94 Geo metro and it kicked on about 5/8 the way up or between half and 3/4 and does kick off after about a minute after the fan runs on, this is the one I found at advance auto BWD TFS591 I think it's closer to the oem switch in temp range... So far so good with No relays, I'm happy with it...I plugged it in like Peterbilt,..I just put some silicone on a long screwdriver and covered the wires in place to seal the plug, it should hold the wires in place and weather proof it too...If we are going to rig stuff might as well rig it up good...Use long needlenose to fasten wires in place...just like a surgeon..

Last edited on Sat Sep 19th, 2009 08:25 am by littlebeaver

 Posted: Sat Sep 19th, 2009 04:08 am 102nd Post
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littlebeaver
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I'm new here and I want to thank everyone on this site for all of this information...We all will learn from each other...cool stuff I love it...

Last edited on Sat Sep 19th, 2009 08:20 am by littlebeaver

 Posted: Sat Sep 19th, 2009 07:58 am 103rd Post
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littlebeaver
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I would go to advance auto's web site and look up 94 geo metro fan switch for the XFi engine, part# BWD TFS591  I just got one and it's $35 with tax and works just right.  You will probably have to order it,  the TFS596 is too cool for me ...the fan goes on and stays on and won't kick off,  the TFS591 will kick off...It's a higher temp... 

Last edited on Sat Sep 19th, 2009 08:12 am by littlebeaver

 Posted: Sat Sep 19th, 2009 04:13 pm 104th Post
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dan filipi
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Has anyone tried one of these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HDA-3653/?image=large

I just put one on mine. Havent been out for a ride yet but it works great in the garage



(I'm a think outside the box kinda guy)




Last edited on Sat Sep 19th, 2009 04:14 pm by dan filipi



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 Posted: Sun Sep 20th, 2009 03:15 am 105th Post
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littlebeaver
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Dan,  that sounds and looks pretty wild,  I would love to know how it works.  Please let us know...

 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 07:07 am 106th Post
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littlebeaver
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Peter or anyone else, if you still have the oem switch you might be able to fix it,  put it in a vise and unscrew that little section under that probe[that end probe thing] with a pair of small vise grips, yep it unscrews,  the problem is deposits form in that nail shaft area and the deposits keep the shaft from moving free as it should,,  clean it up put everything back  together and test it[should work now].. good luck and let me know if it works for you.. this problem happens because of time,  the deposits in there are the same as the ones in the radiator...clean with vinagar or what ever, I brought mine back to life this weekend doing this and it works good, now I have a good aftermarket and oem fan switch..Oh and they kick the fan on at the same temp on the gauge, just over half mark      .. littlebeaver   never throw stuff away you might figure out how to fix it...

Last edited on Mon Sep 28th, 2009 06:45 pm by littlebeaver

 Posted: Mon Sep 28th, 2009 01:49 pm 107th Post
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dan filipi
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littlebeaver wrote: Dan,  that sounds and looks pretty wild,  I would love to know how it works.  Please let us know...
Just a followup, it works very good.
I can adjust  to come on early or late.
The "off" point differential seems to be very close to what stock is.



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 Posted: Tue Sep 29th, 2009 05:13 pm 108th Post
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pmmarsh55
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Dan,

After seeing your note, I picked one of these up and installed on my 1200.  It seems to work pretty well (at least in the garage).  I've yet to road test it but I don't foresee see any problems.  I had already wired in a manual fan override switch and was able to tap into the wiring for that. 

Where did you mount the sending unit on the radiator?  I put mine just below the fan, lengthwise across the radiator.  I'm not sure if I want to keep i there and was thinking about attaching it to the upper radiator hose.  I do like the adjustability (and the price).

By the way, you can these at Advance Auto Parts under the Imperial name.  In my local store, it was in the display of the transmission coolers (not behind the counter).  The parts guy I talked to said it's a stock item so most stores should have it in stock.



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 Posted: Wed Sep 30th, 2009 03:13 am 109th Post
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dan filipi
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Pretty much anywhere on the radiator will work fine because of the wide range of adjustment. I was thinking about the upper radiator hose also, wrap some black duct tape around it to insulate a bit.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 4th, 2009 05:31 pm 110th Post
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socrace2
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littlebeaver wrote: Peter or anyone else, if you still have the oem switch you might be able to fix it...Hey littlebeaver I tried that also and it worked pretty well althought it cr*d out again after a couple weeks but definately worth a try, or keep it as a spare..

 Posted: Mon Oct 5th, 2009 12:06 am 111th Post
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littlebeaver
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Soak the end probe in carb cleaner[just the end part after you unscrew it]   and see what happens,  it's worth a try,  I don't think it would hurt anything,  Mine works as new now... You know where it closes and opens,  I'm thinking gunk is under the tiny sleeve that allows it to move,  try it and retest it,  it's still sticking that's why it isn't working properly, also clean up the electrical ends with sandpaper, this is fun isn't it,  I brought mine back to life and so far its still working well... Good luck...You were  very smart to save it.. 

Last edited on Mon Oct 5th, 2009 04:50 am by littlebeaver

 Posted: Fri Nov 6th, 2009 06:06 pm 112th Post
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MSGT-R
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Well, it's my turn now; I boiled over in Las Vegas traffic on Tuesday. No damage, but I'll be changing my fan switch this weekend.



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 Posted: Sat Nov 7th, 2009 09:20 pm 113th Post
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MSGT-R
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Update: every one of those listed fan switches are 16mm thread diameter. MY 1100 interstate is 18mm thread. I went through every switch they had at my parts store, and they were all too small. The catalog had only one 18mm, and its a short little sucker that requires a gasket instead of an o-ring.

I'm dead in the water (or rather w/o water); I ordered an OEM from Direct Line Parts.

The thermostat, however, was correct.



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 Posted: Mon Mar 8th, 2010 09:44 pm 114th Post
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Peterbylt
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Just thought I would add an update here.

It's been over two years and many thousands of miles and the replacement thermal switch is still working as good as the day I put it in there.

Peter

 



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 Posted: Tue Mar 9th, 2010 12:21 am 115th Post
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peterbilt
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no problems here also very cheap and reliable fix goes on and off just fine no issues



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 Posted: Wed Mar 10th, 2010 03:53 pm 116th Post
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Peterbylt
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peterbilt wrote: no problems here also very cheap and reliable fix goes on and off just fine no issues

And if Two Peterbylt (Peterbilt)'s say it's true, then it must be.

Peter 



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 Posted: Thu Mar 11th, 2010 01:32 am 117th Post
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peterbilt
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you know it dammed peterbilts are expensive so thinkin outside the box is a good thing



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 Posted: Tue Apr 13th, 2010 01:47 am 118th Post
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booya
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NAPA number for fan switch is fs154. switch closes at 208 f .

 Posted: Sat Apr 17th, 2010 03:24 am 119th Post
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i still say that you should go to the auto salvage yard and yank a few off like i did for free along with the connector not a bad investment for nothing

my fan kicks about 3/4 way on the guage works great ive put almost 3000 miles on it seince the repair works just fine and rember

2 peterbilts say its good so it must be good ha ha ha



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 Posted: Sat Apr 17th, 2010 04:03 am 120th Post
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littlebeaver
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Hey,  mine kicks on about 5/8 ,  I did something different on my switch, you know  those male plugins with the blue plastic casings shown in peterbylt's photo's,  well, I took off the plastic and threw it away and I took the bare plug and wedged it  next to those flat plugins on the after market switch, I made it fit,  wedge it between the plastic casing and the plugin and do both like that,[ be sure they are making good contact], and now you have a plug like the oem, be sure to check the heights and the widths on the plugs so they are the same as original,  I filled it flush with  jb weld but use what  you feel is good.   I cut a small piece of 3/4 pvc pipe to fit over the plug[ might need to taper the inside of one end with a file or dremel] the reason for the pipe is so the original  rubber fits it tightly when plugged in,  it helps protect the plug connection...I think someone did us all a big favor coming up with these after market fan switches,  I want to thank that person...Peterbylt thanks for your post.... 

Last edited on Sat Apr 17th, 2010 05:48 am by littlebeaver

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