| GL1100 Cooling fan thermal switch | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Mon May 31st, 2010 03:01 am | 121st Post |
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I found out that O'Rileys has a great choice of switches for the 94 geo metro, I went to their site to see what they had...I got the one for the xfi engine and it works great..
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| Posted: Mon May 31st, 2010 03:06 am | 122nd Post |
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The switch runs about a minute then cuts off...I'm sure it will run a little longer once it gets hotter... Last edited on Mon May 31st, 2010 03:10 am by littlebeaver |
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| Posted: Mon May 31st, 2010 04:46 am | 123rd Post |
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I put one on mine about 2 months ago, all is fine BECK/ARNLEY2011614Radiator Fan Switch Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty$ 8.34$ 0.001$ 8.34 ShippingPriority Mail$ 6.08 Order Total $ 14.42 Rockauto.com 96 Geo Metro opps 94 Last edited on Wed Jun 2nd, 2010 12:11 am by ebanjo ____________________ Happy Trails http://www.bluegrasshighway.com http://www.live365.com/index.live?curl=%2Fstations%2Febanjo I'm looking for a 4 wheeler Triumph TR5 or TR6 fixer upper. |
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| Posted: Mon May 31st, 2010 04:49 am | 124th Post |
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littlebeaver wrote:The switch runs about a minute then cuts off...I'm sure it will run a little longer once it gets hotter... Just so you know, that sounds pretty normal to me. The only time the one I had on my GL1000 ran longer was sitting in baking traffic, in places like Phoenix AZ in summer. Here's the rule- (based on???) If your head's on fire inside your helmet, your GL fan will stay on, for a minute or two! 
____________________ Motorcycle Pete ___________________________________ 1998 ST1100 British Racing Green- my poor UK lass- always "rode hard and put up wet"! 1982 VF750S-for sportiness sake 1981 GL1100 Interstate, 1979 GL1000 ----------------------------------- Motorcycle Pete Bateman is no longer with us. He passed away at home in July 2010. Always popular, Pete is missed by all of us. ----------------------------------- |
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| Posted: Mon May 31st, 2010 07:36 am | 125th Post |
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wingnut wrote: Endwell_Tim wrote:Great tip! Perhaps it will make its way into the Reference and FAQ Forum. I soldered wires to the switch then filled the space with epoxy Last edited on Wed Jun 2nd, 2010 12:12 am by ebanjo ____________________ Happy Trails http://www.bluegrasshighway.com http://www.live365.com/index.live?curl=%2Fstations%2Febanjo I'm looking for a 4 wheeler Triumph TR5 or TR6 fixer upper. |
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| Posted: Tue Jun 15th, 2010 09:14 pm | 126th Post |
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littlebeaver,,, I want to try your solution, but need to understand a bit more. You say the 'end' , that goes into the coolant, will turn out? unscrew? And the part that 'moves', is this insde the switch? The description sort of sounds like the 'end' of the switch moves in and out, and I'm pretty sure that is not what you meant. Mine is not working, so tonight I will try and take it apart, its gotta be worth at least a try. Thanks.
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| Posted: Wed Jun 16th, 2010 02:38 am | 127th Post |
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Yes, the End probe thing goes toward the body of the unit when it closes a little bit, under that end probe there is a small shaft that holds everything, unscrew that shaft with a small pair of vise grips, the smaller the better, theres not much room, if you look there might be some marks on the shaft from when Honda installed it, it looks like a bite mark from a tool, ..If your small vise grips are too wide grind them down and make them fit, [I would not recommend using any other tool] put it in a vise and loosen it up and remove the shaft [note the direction of that nail looking pin] and you will see the nail like pin inside the shaft, clean all of that out and when you put it all back together use lock tight or gasket sealer on the threads, be sure that you soak the end in carb cleaner [ half hour] because if that end probe is sticking it could be an exterior problem , have you ever heard of a fan running all the time and won't shut off, its probably the shaft just under that end probe, it gets dirty and the end probe gets stuck when it needs to open and close freely...Now be sure you test it before installing it, test in oil or antifreeze, my choice is antifreeze... here's an idea, try this, clean up the exterior of the shaft first, then test it, some wd40 and nylon string and clean it like dental flossing, just clean under that end probe and test it, you might not even need to open it up...but mine had lots of white stuff [deposits] inside of it you will never really know unless you operate...Now to answer your question yes the end probe unscrews but I wouldn't unscrew it because you might damage it...Unscrew it where the threads are which is under the probe on the shaft...Hope this helps..Littlebeaver Last edited on Wed Jun 16th, 2010 09:54 pm by littlebeaver |
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| Posted: Wed Jun 16th, 2010 04:17 pm | 128th Post |
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I found that a bread wrapper wire works great to get the gunk out of the underside of the end probe, clean that out too...I'm certain if you do all of this your switch will work, I was amazed at how much stuff I got out of the underside of the probe..It's best to test it with a multimeter ..later Littlebeaver ...watch that needle jump now when you test it... Last edited on Wed Jun 16th, 2010 09:36 pm by littlebeaver |
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| Posted: Tue May 15th, 2012 11:54 pm | 129th Post |
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I had a strange issue hooking up a fan control with a Pot. I used switched power from the fan control, pos, blue lead. I also ran power to the fan relay directly from the battery. I always had voltage on the negative side of the fan. I was able to eventually get a toggle switch installed (on the pos fan switch lead) running the fan ground directly to the battery ground. It was a Hayden switch with an additional lead for running a second fan. It was $35 and seemed to be a good alternative to the OEM fan switch. I couldn't get the Hayden to work consistently and was puzzled by the presence of voltage (10 - 11 VDC) on the ground lead of the fan. I can live with the toggle switch I just need to know how to deal with this in the future. I never checked current levels on the neg fan lead only voltage. When I shorted the OEM fan leads the fan ran without issue. That's when I began looking for a cheaper alternative to the OEM switch. Last edited on Tue May 15th, 2012 11:57 pm by jlee133541 |
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