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Peterbylt
Active Member
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Posted: Mon Jan 28th, 2008 10:39 pm | 1st Post |
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The thermal switch on my 81 gl1100 has been broken for some time.
I dropped a couple of wires down and hardwired a toggle switch across it.
$80 or $90 dollars for the replacement switch seemed a little excessive.
I read on the nakedwings board that a thermal switch out of a 94 Geo Metro 1.0L was the right thread and temp so I went to Advance auto parts and bought one for $16.95.
The switch did not have the protruding extension on the inside and had different connectors but it did have the correct threads and screwed right in.
I made some little connector wire adapters so I would not have to cut the original wiring harness and I wanted to keep the bypass switch.
The switch works like a champ and comes on when it should and shuts off when it should.
Peter
____________________
75 GL1000
81 GL1100
75 550F
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dan filipi
Guru
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Posted: Mon Jan 28th, 2008 10:47 pm | 2nd Post |
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Nice! I'm all for saving some cash.
Thanks for passing this on.
____________________
1983 GL1100 Interstate
http://classicgoldwings.com
A Honda Goldwing GL1100 Specific website
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Broke Winger
Senior Member
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Posted: Mon Jan 28th, 2008 11:00 pm | 3rd Post |
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| Great Tip!! Thanks, I'll probably pick one up this weekend cuz mine is bad too. DO you have a part number?
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P.G.R. Member
http://www.patriotguard.org
Our Soldiers are what make us strong, are what keeps us free. Freedom has a high price, and our soldiers are the ones footing the bill. Without them there would be no America.
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wda-83wing
Guru
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Posted: Mon Jan 28th, 2008 11:12 pm | 4th Post |
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Peterbylt wrote: The thermal switch on my 81 gl1100 has been broken for some time.
I dropped a couple of wires down and hardwired a toggle switch across it.
$80 or $90 dollars for the replacement switch seemed a little excessive.
I read on the nakedwings board that a thermal switch out of a 94 Geo Metro 1.0L was the right thread and temp so I went to Advance auto parts and bought one for $16.95.
The switch did not have the protruding extension on the inside and had different connectors but it did have the correct threads and screwed right in.
I made some little connector wire adapters so I would not have to cut the original wiring harness and I wanted to keep the bypass switch.
The switch works like a champ and comes on when it should and shuts off when it should.
Peter
just wondering ---anyone know if the thermo switch activets a relay on the geo? what im thinking is current draw though the thermo switch. interresting ? ?
____________________
1979 gl1000 dressed --back to naked
1980 gl1100 interstate --side lined
1983 gl1100 interstate the fastest color--RED
retiered trucker---going to see it again ----on 2 wheels---love it--love it--- love it
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Broke Winger
Senior Member
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Posted: Mon Jan 28th, 2008 11:17 pm | 5th Post |
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I would doubt it, the fan on the geo isn't going to draw any more than the GW fan, if as much. The Geo radiator is gonna be a good bit bigger than the GW raditator, so the fan on the Geo isn't going to have to work as hard.
It's a goo question though, and definitely worth knowing for sure.
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http://www.patriotguard.org
Our Soldiers are what make us strong, are what keeps us free. Freedom has a high price, and our soldiers are the ones footing the bill. Without them there would be no America.
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Peterbylt
Active Member
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Posted: Mon Jan 28th, 2008 11:19 pm | 6th Post |
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| The part number is on the box in the first Picture.
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75 GL1000
81 GL1100
75 550F
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Broke Winger
Senior Member
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Posted: Mon Jan 28th, 2008 11:22 pm | 7th Post |
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Peterbylt wrote: The part number is on the box in the first Picture.
  
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P.G.R. Member
http://www.patriotguard.org
Our Soldiers are what make us strong, are what keeps us free. Freedom has a high price, and our soldiers are the ones footing the bill. Without them there would be no America.
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AirCutoff
Active Member
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Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 05:04 am | 8th Post |
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94 Geo Metro 1.0L
BWD
TFS596
40-5079
Awesome news - knew there had to be something out there that wasn't so pricey!
Thank you for the tip.
____________________
Past bikes in no particular order -
65 Yamaha 80
67 Yamaha 305 Scrambler
71 & 75 HD Sportster
75 HD FLH
72 Suzuki T500
74 Suzuki GT550
77 Suzuki GS750
72 & 81 BMW R75/5, R100RT
83 Yamaha XT200
Current bike:
81 Honda GL1100
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Dubswing
Very Active Member
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Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 11:51 am | 9th Post |
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Even though the Geo is a small car with a small fan, it could draw some serious amps on startup. We have modified several older vette cooling systems changing them to electric fans and used fans from Ford Taraus etc. They all had relays in the system. I would be willing to bet the Geo has a relay, just because it seems to be standard operation procedure these days with all car mfg. This isn't to say you need one in this application; current draw on the GW fan, especially on startup, would dictate wheter you really need a relay or not. Whenever we do a resto on any vehicle, the one mod we all do is use relays on all the electrical components. It is just a safe practice to make sure nothing is left to chance. If your GW doesn't have a relay now and isn't giving any problems it should be fine.
Bernie
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Work for tomorrow, live for today.
Live life like you mean it!
GWRRA, Tenn. Chapter T
Patriot Guard Rider Member
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redneck
Senior Member
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Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 01:45 pm | 10th Post |
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| i wish you would have posted that last week, i have just bought a brand new one from the local honda dealer, £71 thats about $140, ah well, you live and learn
____________________
irlp node # 5386....MB7IAG
GØSVH........... call me sometime
skype edwright1
1986 GL1200 INTERSTATE (adopted )....1986 GL1200 ASPENCADE
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Endwell_Tim
Guru
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Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 02:49 pm | 11th Post |
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| Great tip! Perhaps it will make its way into the Reference and FAQ Forum.
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Endwell_Tim
81 GL1100I
"Opportunity is most often missed because it shows up in overalls, lookin' like work..."
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tricky
Very Active Member
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Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 05:50 pm | 12th Post |
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If the 1100 is anything similar to the 1200 then all that thermo switch does is ground the fan, there is no excessive current running through it.
twould be nice to know what the switching temperature is, was it tested prior to installation?
____________________
While any advice given may concern earlier or later models it specifically pertains to the 1985 Aspencade.
Click here for another place for 1200's to gather!
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dan filipi
Guru
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Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 07:07 pm | 13th Post |
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True it supplies the ground but there is still a current flow equal to the load's draw whether it's supplying the positive or the negative.
The thermo switch is switching a load on and off. It's always a good idea to install a relay to lower the load imposed on the switch, a relay requires a couple watts, the fan requires a couple amps.
It may last 20 years without a relay just like the OEM switch but without knowing the switch capacity rating then a relay is an excellent idea.
____________________
1983 GL1100 Interstate
http://classicgoldwings.com
A Honda Goldwing GL1100 Specific website
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wingnut
Admin
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Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 07:13 pm | 14th Post |
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Endwell_Tim wrote: Great tip! Perhaps it will make its way into the Reference and FAQ Forum.
Tis on the way there now Tim. BTW Peter that's good work. Would it also be worth filling the hollow part of the plastic on the swtch (where the wires connect into) with Araldite or something to keep it all tight and prevent corrrosion?
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Steve Saunders,
Admin and Founder Member.
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Peterbylt
Active Member
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Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 11:09 pm | 15th Post |
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wingnut wrote: Endwell_Tim wrote: Great tip! Perhaps it will make its way into the Reference and FAQ Forum.
Tis on the way there now Tim. BTW Peter that's good work. Would it also be worth filling the hollow part of the plastic on the switch (where the wires connect into) with Araldite or something to keep it all tight and prevent corrosion?
That is an excellent Idea. I had thought of putting some sort of insulating grease in there to protect it from corrosion but if you make the adapter wires and then epoxy them in place that would work nicely.
What I didn't show in the pictures is that I was able to push the original rubber boot over the whole thing to keep it protected as well.
Also I am not sure if the current will eventually be to much for the switch but it has worked for over 300 miles so far.
In reply to Tricky, No I did not test the switching temp prior to installing it. It seems to come on when the temperature gauge is halfway up. In other words if I am sitting stopped in traffic for 20 min. Then it shuts off almost as soon as I start moving again.
Peter
____________________
75 GL1000
81 GL1100
75 550F
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exavid
Top Poster
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Posted: Wed Jan 30th, 2008 03:06 am | 16th Post |
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| I'd say your empirical test with the temp meter indicated it was operating in the same range as the OEM. Also don't think there'd be enough current difference to matter between it's automotive use and the bike. The auto installation would have required more cooling due to the heavier loads on the car's engine and it's larger size so the amount of air being pumped through the radiator can't be all that much different. Regardless of the speed of the fan motors or the sizes of there fans about the same amount of power is needed to push a similar amount of air. Since the voltage is the same on the car and bike the current has to be about the same.
____________________
If you can't ride, fly or sail it, why bother?
Paul W. 1993 Aspencade 1982 Aspencade
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tricky
Very Active Member
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Posted: Wed Jan 30th, 2008 04:34 pm | 17th Post |
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dan filipi wrote: True it supplies the ground but there is still a current flow equal to the load's draw whether it's supplying the positive or the negative.
The thermo switch is switching a load on and off. It's always a good idea to install a relay to lower the load imposed on the switch, a relay requires a couple watts, the fan requires a couple amps.
It may last 20 years without a relay just like the OEM switch but without knowing the switch capacity rating then a relay is an excellent idea.
My electrical knowledge is basic but I beg to differ.
The thermo switch is not switching a load on and off, yes there is current but the energy has been devoured by the fan.
The answer lies in the distinction between power and current. Yes, power is "consumed" in operating the motor (actually, it's transformed into motion, heat, and noise). That's different than current. Current is just the number of electrons flowing through the wire, and that is constant at every point in the circuit. What happens when electrical work is done is that there is a "voltage drop" across the load, so the electrons flowing out of the motor have less "pressure" to move things than those flowing in. Think of it like a water mill -- the same amount of water flows into the upper buckets as flows out of the lower buckets, but the lower buckets have less potential energy: they've lost it pushing the wheel.
____________________
While any advice given may concern earlier or later models it specifically pertains to the 1985 Aspencade.
Click here for another place for 1200's to gather!
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dan filipi
Guru
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Posted: Thu Jan 31st, 2008 01:58 am | 18th Post |
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I dont mean to step on anyone's toes, on the contrary I'm a nice guy, really!
I'm the first to admit when I'm wrong but when I'm certain I'm right then I need to clear the air, not just for myself and my knowingness but for all others concerned who are looking for factual information not just theory.
They say a picture tells a thousand words, in this case a video tells a million.
Note that there is nearly a 6 amp load at start up on both the positive AND negative.
I guess if anyone still needs proof there is indeed a conciderable load on the thermo switch your just gonna have to come over to my house for me to show you.
I'll buy the beer.
http://filipi.com/Fanload.mov
____________________
1983 GL1100 Interstate
http://classicgoldwings.com
A Honda Goldwing GL1100 Specific website
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exavid
Top Poster
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Posted: Thu Jan 31st, 2008 02:18 am | 19th Post |
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| Six amps switching current on the thermoswitch isn't a lot. Most DC switches used in 12V appications are rated for a minimum of 10A usually even more. The six amps you see on each wire to the fan motor are the same 6A, going and coming from the motor.
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If you can't ride, fly or sail it, why bother?
Paul W. 1993 Aspencade 1982 Aspencade
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tricky
Very Active Member
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Posted: Thu Jan 31st, 2008 01:59 pm | 20th Post |
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dan filipi wrote: I dont mean to step on anyone's toes, on the contrary I'm a nice guy, really!
I'm the first to admit when I'm wrong but when I'm certain I'm right then I need to clear the air, not just for myself and my knowingness but for all others concerned who are looking for factual information not just theory.
They say a picture tells a thousand words, in this case a video tells a million.
Note that there is nearly a 6 amp load at start up on both the positive AND negative.
I guess if anyone still needs proof there is indeed a conciderable load on the thermo switch your just gonna have to come over to my house for me to show you.
I'll buy the beer.
http://filipi.com/Fanload.mov
I dont think anyone is stepping on anyones toe's Like I said I am not an expert, I think the discussion is to everyone's advantage as we all learn a little more as we go on.
But if a relay was needed in the grounding circuit for the fan which is using said 2-5v wouldn't the same be required on the grounding circuit for everything using energy. I have air horns (compressor motor) which requires 30 amp fuse, they have a 30 amp relay on the positive side of the motor, your saying I now need a relay on the negative side. How about the headlamps do they need relays on the ground?
I am not refuting your video but I need it explaining.
____________________
While any advice given may concern earlier or later models it specifically pertains to the 1985 Aspencade.
Click here for another place for 1200's to gather!
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