| GL1100 Cooling fan thermal switch | Rate Topic |
| Moderators: redbaron, MDKramer, Flyone, AZgl1500 | Page: 1 2 3 4 5 6 ...   |
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| Posted: Mon Jan 28th, 2008 11:39 pm | 1st Post |
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The thermal switch on my 81 gl1100 has been broken for some time. I dropped a couple of wires down and hardwired a toggle switch across it. $80 or $90 dollars for the replacement switch seemed a little excessive. I read on the nakedwings board that a thermal switch out of a 94 Geo Metro 1.0L was the right thread and temp so I went to Advance auto parts and bought one for $16.95. The switch did not have the protruding extension on the inside and had different connectors but it did have the correct threads and screwed right in. I made some little connector wire adapters so I would not have to cut the original wiring harness and I wanted to keep the bypass switch. The switch works like a champ and comes on when it should and shuts off when it should.    Peter
____________________ 75 GL1000 81 GL1100 85 GL1200A 75 550F |
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| Posted: Mon Jan 28th, 2008 11:47 pm | 2nd Post |
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Nice! I'm all for saving some cash. Thanks for passing this on.
____________________ 1983 GL1100 Interstate and 1983 Interstate going naked http://classicgoldwings.com A Honda Goldwing GL1100 Specific discussion forum. |
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| Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 12:00 am | 3rd Post |
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Great Tip!! Thanks, I'll probably pick one up this weekend cuz mine is bad too. DO you have a part number?
____________________ P.G.R. Member ID: 88374 http://www.patriotguard.org Our Soldiers are what make us strong. Without them there would be no USA. |
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| Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 12:12 am | 4th Post |
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Peterbylt wrote: The thermal switch on my 81 gl1100 has been broken for some time. just wondering ---anyone know if the thermo switch activets a relay on the geo? what im thinking is current draw though the thermo switch. interresting ? ?
____________________ 1979 gl1000 dressed --back to naked 1980 gl1100 interstate --side lined 1983 gl1100 interstate the fastest color--RED retired trucker---going to see it again ----on 2 wheels---love it--love it http://serrasj.com/ gwrra 003663 |
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| Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 12:17 am | 5th Post |
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I would doubt it, the fan on the geo isn't going to draw any more than the GW fan, if as much. The Geo radiator is gonna be a good bit bigger than the GW raditator, so the fan on the Geo isn't going to have to work as hard. It's a goo question though, and definitely worth knowing for sure.
____________________ P.G.R. Member ID: 88374 http://www.patriotguard.org Our Soldiers are what make us strong. Without them there would be no USA. |
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| Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 12:19 am | 6th Post |
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The part number is on the box in the first Picture.
____________________ 75 GL1000 81 GL1100 85 GL1200A 75 550F |
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| Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 12:22 am | 7th Post |
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Peterbylt wrote: The part number is on the box in the first Picture.   
____________________ P.G.R. Member ID: 88374 http://www.patriotguard.org Our Soldiers are what make us strong. Without them there would be no USA. |
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| Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 06:04 am | 8th Post |
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94 Geo Metro 1.0L BWD TFS596 40-5079 Awesome news - knew there had to be something out there that wasn't so pricey! Thank you for the tip.
____________________ Past bikes in no particular order - 65 Yamaha 80 67 Yamaha 305 Scrambler 71 & 75 HD Sportster 75 HD FLH 72 Suzuki T500 74 Suzuki GT550 77 Suzuki GS750 72 & 81 BMW R75/5, R100RT 83 Yamaha XT200 Current bike: 81 Honda GL1100 |
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| Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 12:51 pm | 9th Post |
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Even though the Geo is a small car with a small fan, it could draw some serious amps on startup. We have modified several older vette cooling systems changing them to electric fans and used fans from Ford Taraus etc. They all had relays in the system. I would be willing to bet the Geo has a relay, just because it seems to be standard operation procedure these days with all car mfg. This isn't to say you need one in this application; current draw on the GW fan, especially on startup, would dictate wheter you really need a relay or not. Whenever we do a resto on any vehicle, the one mod we all do is use relays on all the electrical components. It is just a safe practice to make sure nothing is left to chance. If your GW doesn't have a relay now and isn't giving any problems it should be fine. Bernie
____________________ GL1500 Valkyrie Work for tomorrow, live for today. Live life like you mean it! American Legion Member Patriot Guard Rider Member Vietnam Veteran 68/69 MSF Instructor |
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| Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 02:45 pm | 10th Post |
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i wish you would have posted that last week, i have just bought a brand new one from the local honda dealer, £71 thats about $140, ah well, you live and learn
____________________ GØSVH radio hams do it all night !!! and sometimes with frequency '88 GL1500 |
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| Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 03:49 pm | 11th Post |
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Great tip! Perhaps it will make its way into the Reference and FAQ Forum.
____________________ Endwell_Tim 81 GL1100I ---->>>> GONE!!! 90 GL1500 SE "Opportunity is most often missed because it shows up in overalls, lookin' like work..." |
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| Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 06:50 pm | 12th Post |
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If the 1100 is anything similar to the 1200 then all that thermo switch does is ground the fan, there is no excessive current running through it. twould be nice to know what the switching temperature is, was it tested prior to installation?
____________________ While any advice given may concern earlier or later models it specifically pertains to the 1985 Aspencade. Click here for another place for 1200's to gather! |
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| Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 08:07 pm | 13th Post |
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True it supplies the ground but there is still a current flow equal to the load's draw whether it's supplying the positive or the negative. The thermo switch is switching a load on and off. It's always a good idea to install a relay to lower the load imposed on the switch, a relay requires a couple watts, the fan requires a couple amps. It may last 20 years without a relay just like the OEM switch but without knowing the switch capacity rating then a relay is an excellent idea.
____________________ 1983 GL1100 Interstate and 1983 Interstate going naked http://classicgoldwings.com A Honda Goldwing GL1100 Specific discussion forum. |
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| Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 08:13 pm | 14th Post |
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Endwell_Tim wrote: Great tip! Perhaps it will make its way into the Reference and FAQ Forum. Tis on the way there now Tim. BTW Peter that's good work. Would it also be worth filling the hollow part of the plastic on the swtch (where the wires connect into) with Araldite or something to keep it all tight and prevent corrrosion?
____________________ Steve Saunders, Founder Member & Admin. |
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| Posted: Wed Jan 30th, 2008 12:09 am | 15th Post |
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wingnut wrote: Endwell_Tim wrote:Great tip! Perhaps it will make its way into the Reference and FAQ Forum. That is an excellent Idea. I had thought of putting some sort of insulating grease in there to protect it from corrosion but if you make the adapter wires and then epoxy them in place that would work nicely. What I didn't show in the pictures is that I was able to push the original rubber boot over the whole thing to keep it protected as well. Also I am not sure if the current will eventually be to much for the switch but it has worked for over 300 miles so far. In reply to Tricky, No I did not test the switching temp prior to installing it. It seems to come on when the temperature gauge is halfway up. In other words if I am sitting stopped in traffic for 20 min. Then it shuts off almost as soon as I start moving again. Peter
____________________ 75 GL1000 81 GL1100 85 GL1200A 75 550F |
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| Posted: Wed Jan 30th, 2008 04:06 am | 16th Post |
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I'd say your empirical test with the temp meter indicated it was operating in the same range as the OEM. Also don't think there'd be enough current difference to matter between it's automotive use and the bike. The auto installation would have required more cooling due to the heavier loads on the car's engine and it's larger size so the amount of air being pumped through the radiator can't be all that much different. Regardless of the speed of the fan motors or the sizes of there fans about the same amount of power is needed to push a similar amount of air. Since the voltage is the same on the car and bike the current has to be about the same.
____________________ If you can't ride, fly or sail it, why bother? 2001 Goldwing 1800 Paul W. |
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| Posted: Wed Jan 30th, 2008 05:34 pm | 17th Post |
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dan filipi wrote: True it supplies the ground but there is still a current flow equal to the load's draw whether it's supplying the positive or the negative. My electrical knowledge is basic but I beg to differ. The thermo switch is not switching a load on and off, yes there is current but the energy has been devoured by the fan. The answer lies in the distinction between power and current. Yes, power is "consumed" in operating the motor (actually, it's transformed into motion, heat, and noise). That's different than current. Current is just the number of electrons flowing through the wire, and that is constant at every point in the circuit. What happens when electrical work is done is that there is a "voltage drop" across the load, so the electrons flowing out of the motor have less "pressure" to move things than those flowing in. Think of it like a water mill -- the same amount of water flows into the upper buckets as flows out of the lower buckets, but the lower buckets have less potential energy: they've lost it pushing the wheel.
____________________ While any advice given may concern earlier or later models it specifically pertains to the 1985 Aspencade. Click here for another place for 1200's to gather! |
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| Posted: Thu Jan 31st, 2008 02:58 am | 18th Post |
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I dont mean to step on anyone's toes, on the contrary I'm a nice guy, really! I'm the first to admit when I'm wrong but when I'm certain I'm right then I need to clear the air, not just for myself and my knowingness but for all others concerned who are looking for factual information not just theory. They say a picture tells a thousand words, in this case a video tells a million. Note that there is nearly a 6 amp load at start up on both the positive AND negative. I guess if anyone still needs proof there is indeed a conciderable load on the thermo switch your just gonna have to come over to my house for me to show you. I'll buy the beer. http://filipi.com/Fanload.mov
____________________ 1983 GL1100 Interstate and 1983 Interstate going naked http://classicgoldwings.com A Honda Goldwing GL1100 Specific discussion forum. |
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| Posted: Thu Jan 31st, 2008 03:18 am | 19th Post |
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Six amps switching current on the thermoswitch isn't a lot. Most DC switches used in 12V appications are rated for a minimum of 10A usually even more. The six amps you see on each wire to the fan motor are the same 6A, going and coming from the motor.
____________________ If you can't ride, fly or sail it, why bother? 2001 Goldwing 1800 Paul W. |
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| Posted: Thu Jan 31st, 2008 02:59 pm | 20th Post |
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dan filipi wrote: I dont mean to step on anyone's toes, on the contrary I'm a nice guy, really! I dont think anyone is stepping on anyones toe's Like I said I am not an expert, I think the discussion is to everyone's advantage as we all learn a little more as we go on. But if a relay was needed in the grounding circuit for the fan which is using said 2-5v wouldn't the same be required on the grounding circuit for everything using energy. I have air horns (compressor motor) which requires 30 amp fuse, they have a 30 amp relay on the positive side of the motor, your saying I now need a relay on the negative side. How about the headlamps do they need relays on the ground? I am not refuting your video but I need it explaining.
____________________ While any advice given may concern earlier or later models it specifically pertains to the 1985 Aspencade. Click here for another place for 1200's to gather! |
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