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Hawaii
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Posted: Wed Mar 12th, 2008 07:51 pm | 1st Post |
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Enjoy
http://youtube.com/watch?v=hQj05Db-C3c
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Emery
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d10205
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Posted: Wed Mar 12th, 2008 08:35 pm | 2nd Post |
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Thanks for the post!! Last edited on Thu Mar 13th, 2008 07:45 pm by d10205
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2008 RZR, 2002 Honda 230f, 2001 Yamaha 225 CRF.
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rotary wing
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Posted: Wed Mar 12th, 2008 09:37 pm | 3rd Post |
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VMT for this tip!
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1981 GL1100E, blue with Vetter Windjammer fairing
2008 BMW R1200RT also blue
"Nil volentibus arduum"
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exavid
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Posted: Wed Mar 12th, 2008 09:53 pm | 4th Post |
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Good video on the subject. Some things that could be added is to be very careful at the start and end of the cut, that's where most cracks occur. When I last cut down a windshield (my brand new expensive Cee Bailey) I started the cut about 1/8" above the line and ended the cut the same way. I used a file and sandpaper to bring those two points down to the line. That way I wasn't risking a crack or chip starting the cut or where the blade meets the end of the cut. Also the part above the cut needs to be carefully supported so it doesn't vibrate from the saw's action. That could cause the plastic to break or crack.
When I cut my windshield down I made two cuts so I didn't have so much material above the cut that might flap around. Also reduced the unsupported weight as the cut progressed. As a bonus doing it in two cuts gives a bit of practice, if you do something wrong odds are you won't hurt the area where you want the final cut to be.
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If you can't ride, fly or sail it, why bother?
Paul W. 1993 Aspencade 1982 Aspencade
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English Bob
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Posted: Thu Mar 13th, 2008 02:34 am | 5th Post |
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When I did my 1800 shield last year I did a couple of things differently.
As I was cutting I had my assistant come behind and put tape over the cut so that the bit couldn't flap, seemed to work OK.
I used a 10" mill bastard file, brand new and clean, to smooth out the saw cut, at the same time I rocked it to give a slight rounding to the edge to match the original edge.
I did all the sanding by hand, and all of it wet, I used 220, 320, 400, 600, 800 and 1500. This gave me a fairly shiny edge.
I did my layout quite differently, but I think their way is better and far simpler!
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There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
George Santayana
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exavid
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Posted: Thu Mar 13th, 2008 03:30 am | 6th Post |
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| I also used a file for initial smoothing. It does a good job of leveling any excursions from the line made by the saw and leaves a pretty clean edge ready for fine wet sanding. The finished cutoff edge looked just like the original.
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If you can't ride, fly or sail it, why bother?
Paul W. 1993 Aspencade 1982 Aspencade
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Winger77
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Posted: Thu Mar 13th, 2008 12:14 pm | 7th Post |
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| One thing I didn't see metioned is what "type and size blade tooth to use.
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Broke Winger
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Posted: Thu Mar 13th, 2008 05:16 pm | 8th Post |
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Winger77 wrote: One thing I didn't see metioned is what "type and size blade tooth to use.
18 tooth. Was in the supply list.
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http://www.patriotguard.org
Our Soldiers are what make us strong. Without them there would be no USA.
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Winger77
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Posted: Thu Mar 13th, 2008 08:13 pm | 9th Post |
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Thanks Broke Winger,,,,,,,,,,I forgot about the list in the beginning. It caught me by surprise and went by quickly,,,,,,and I was too lazy to rewind
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WingedNut
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Posted: Thu Mar 13th, 2008 10:49 pm | 10th Post |
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This is not a project I anticipate doing any time but it was still well worth the watching and especially the listening (an orchestral version of "Dark Side" - what a treat).
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There's no such thing as sanity and that's the sanest fact - Dire Straits
Past:
Honda 150 Dream
1947 Harley (stolen before ridden)
Honda 250 Scrambler
Honda 450 Scrambler
1980 Honda CB650
Present:
95 GL1500A (Pearl Sierra Green)
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John Davis Jr.
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Posted: Fri Mar 21st, 2008 01:59 pm | 11th Post |
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THANK YOU ALL VERY MUCH.
I cut Plexiglas and Lexan all the time at work, however it is always straight cuts on a table saw and it isn't my $200.00 windshield.
Thanks again, I'll let you know how the project went.
Your Friend,
John D.
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John D.
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westgl
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Posted: Thu Apr 24th, 2008 03:04 pm | 12th Post |
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Very nice!
Bought a 86' GL1200-Interstate it came with two windshields one is the original, the other is a Tall Wraparound that when the sun hits it I cannot see through it. I cut the tall one.
I cut it down using your proceedure about 6" off the top, My bike went from Crusier to sport bike, it looks realy cool.
I can see over the top of the shield now, NICE!
Feels much sportier too while riding.
still offers a good amount of wind protection
Thanks
Westgl
Last edited on Thu Apr 24th, 2008 03:07 pm by westgl
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1988 GL1500/6 Phantom Grey (current) 74K
1986 GL1200 Interstate,Burgany Metalic Black (current)40K
1982 CB750 Nighthawk
1979 CX500 Red
1971 SL250 Gold/White
1971 CT90 Yellow
1970 CT70 Red
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LilJack
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Posted: Thu Apr 24th, 2008 04:49 pm | 13th Post |
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Nice, main thing different I did when I cut one down was that I used a dremel tool instead of a jigsaw and I used a single edged razor blade to scrape the edges before sanding.
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1978 GL1000 (returning to stock)
1998 GL1500SE in Pearl White.
Forum official CookBook and order form in this thread http://goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum3/53153.html
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