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wolfy
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Posted: Fri Jul 11th, 2008 02:13 am | 1st Post |
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Hi all-
This write up covers my experience with installing the Dupli-Tech version of an aftermarket alternator conversion kit for those who choose not to replace a failed stator. I believe that these kits will only gain in popularity, and the more that’s written about them the better.
I chose the DT kit because I liked the way the alternator installed on the newly milled timing belt cover, there was no modifying other parts of the bike, and it ran off of the crankshaft as opposed to the cam.
It is a bit pricey at nearly $600; I would hope the price drops as more people order it.
My bike is a 1987 Interstate, and nearly all of the observations I’ll list relate to that bike. The only exceptions will pertain to my friend 2slim’s 84 model, on which he had already installed the conversion. Donn was an invaluable asset in the installation of the kit on my bike; I owe him a lot.
Ok, on to the installation!
With your kit you’ll receive installation instructions. I will amend certain portions of those instructions as they applied to my situation.
Shorten right timing belt cover per photo below. While precision is not required, the instructions will tell you that the cut must break into the hole to clear the newly installed pulley on the crankshaft. I ended up grinding the cut around the hole further back; it was just too close to the pulley-and belt- for comfort. I would recommend cutting out a full 2/3 of the hole initially; there’s plenty of overlap from the new cover. A hacksaw works fine. This picture shows where I made the original cut.
And here you see how close the right tb cover is to the alternator belt, even after I ground back my original cut:
I also had to modify the new cover in 2 ways. First, I ground back the boss (I would call it a flange) on the inside of the center hole- it is also too close to the pulley and tended to catch the outer part of the belt when I tried to install it, even though it has a half-moon cut out already. Here you can see where that flange was pushing against the belt, and how I ground it back.
The other mod I had to do was cut a notch out to allow for the pickup coil wires clearance into the timing belt area. This is not needed on an 84 model because the wires are located at the rear of the engine. Trust me, though- if you crimp those wires during installation, the bike will definitely not run well! Donn had to grind a slight dip into an adaptor piece to allow clearance for a water outlet on his 84. Here's the notch:
When it comes time to install the new cover, it is necessary to remove all nuts that hold on the left side crash bar. The new timing belt cover is simply too long to install otherwise. You don’t have to remove the crash bar, just let it pivot downward out of the way.
Important! As you begin to position the cover into place, do not secure it! If you do the crash bar will not clear the cover and you won’t be able to get it back in place. Get the cover close to position and swing the crash bar back up over it; then you can secure the cover.
When installing the alternator onto the tb cover, I fashioned a “hook” out of a short length (4 or 5 inches) of metal clothes hanger to assist in getting the belt onto the alternator pulley. (The belt itself is inside the tb cover.)
The radiator extension bolts are necessary for the radiator to clear the cover, but it makes replacing the lower radiator hose not a lot of fun. The NAPA part number for the hose is 8101- you have to cut some off of each end- and for me it was a chore. Donn had no trouble, though. I also found that the extension bolts threw the bottom of the radiator out far enough to prevent the attachment of the lower piece that attaches to both lower fairings. For me, that was not a big deal- it may be to you. I believe that piece could be attached with some trimming. The next two photos show what I mean:
Wiring is not difficult, but remember this: the charging indicator lamp that comes with the kit only lights up when the key is initially turned on- it will go out when the engine is started. That first light up just shows that the system is hooked up and operating correctly. And I’ll tell ya that a multitester showing a battery being charged is a beautiful thing!
All in all, this was a difficult install for me. I put on and took off the new timing belt cover half a dozen times. Knowing the necessary modifications would have helped immensely. You should just be able to hold the cover in place once to verify whether these mods are needed for your bike. Good luck- and I'll be happy to help in any way I can. Here is the end result:
Website: http://www.dupli-tech.com/goldwing-alternator-convertor.html
____________________
God put me on this earth to accomplish a certain number of things. Right now I am so far behind I will never die.- Calvin
1987 GW Interstate, 69k miles
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englishted
Guru
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Posted: Fri Jul 11th, 2008 08:21 pm | 2nd Post |
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| BTW wolfy, with the alternator out front of the engine, will rain cause problems with it?
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Ted Kelly.
Current Wings; 2006 GL1800 & 1997 GL1500se.
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William_86
Very Active Member
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Posted: Fri Jul 11th, 2008 09:05 pm | 3rd Post |
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thanks for the info, but when my alternator fails ill go for poorboys kit as i dont believe that two 6mm bolts will hold the alternator and cover for a long time.
keep us up to date about how it performs in the battleground 
____________________
85' GL 1200 Interstate - My Picture Thread
Useful links: Manuals, Randakk's
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wolfy
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Posted: Fri Jul 11th, 2008 09:38 pm | 4th Post |
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I will surely keep everyone informed as to how it performs. You bring up an interesting point though, William. I wonder if I should run a small brace from the top bolt of the alternator to the frame. Hmmm...
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God put me on this earth to accomplish a certain number of things. Right now I am so far behind I will never die.- Calvin
1987 GW Interstate, 69k miles
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wingnut
Admin
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Posted: Fri Jul 11th, 2008 10:00 pm | 5th Post |
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| Very interesting thread, I'm moving it to the Reference/FAQ forum.
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Steve Saunders,
Admin and Founder Member.
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mikef
Guru
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Posted: Sat Jul 12th, 2008 05:55 am | 6th Post |
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| Don't think I want my alternator sticking out front where it can be struck.
____________________
Mike
Retirement . . . is when you stop living at work and begin working at living.......Ok, I'm starting to get bored.
http://goldwingtech.info
http://northamericangoldwings.com/
Buy & Sell your stuff: http://RudysBackyard.com/
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pauln
Guru
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Posted: Sun Jul 13th, 2008 07:47 pm | 7th Post |
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Wolfy, thanks for the detailed write-up. I had seen the webpage for that conversion, but wondered if they were still in business (that page has been up for at least 2 1/2 years). Yours is the first one that I am aware of that was done (other than the one on the webpage, obviously).
Is the alternator that came with the kit a special one or is it one that can be purchased for a car? Just curious.
It is interesting to see a different approach than the poorboy.
Keep us informed as to how it works out.
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Paul from Ohio
85 GL1200 LTD
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wolfy
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Posted: Sun Jul 13th, 2008 08:37 pm | 8th Post |
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Hey Paul-
The alternator is for a Mitsubishi, I believe. At any rate, it is a standard auto alternator. I'd like to see in person the poor boy setup, just to compare. I understand the costs involved in milling the new timing belt cover, but $600 is still a bit steep, imho. But I AM up and running!! And that, my friend, is one fine feeling!
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God put me on this earth to accomplish a certain number of things. Right now I am so far behind I will never die.- Calvin
1987 GW Interstate, 69k miles
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wingnut
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Posted: Mon Jul 14th, 2008 04:54 pm | 9th Post |
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| I'll be moving the poorboy thread here as well, if I can find it and of course if it hasn't already been moved.
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Steve Saunders,
Admin and Founder Member.
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Olegrumpy
Member
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Posted: Thu Jul 17th, 2008 06:32 pm | 10th Post |
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 I installed the Dupli-Tech system on my 1984 Interstate last year and had no problems with it. The new left side cover is machined out of a solid piece of billet aluminum and is much more solid than the original piece. Nothing has loosened up since installation. I removed the kit to remove my engine last month.
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Any day above ground is a good day.
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westgl
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Posted: Tue Jul 29th, 2008 02:49 pm | 11th Post |
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That is a real Eye sore with that alternator stick ing out were you can see it.
I have the Poorboy Alternator conversion, it is concealed under the left side cover, you dont know its there, unless you look into the shark vents yu may be albe to see it if you look close.
My 2 cents
Westgl
____________________
1988 GL1500/6 Phantom Grey (current) 74K
1986 GL1200 Interstate,Burgany Metalic Black (current)40K
1982 CB750 Nighthawk
1979 CX500 Red
1971 SL250 Gold/White
1971 CT90 Yellow
1970 CT70 Red
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james013168
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Posted: Tue Jul 29th, 2008 03:21 pm | 12th Post |
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| I don't think I like the one in these pics above, just looks weird. I seen a bike with the poorboy kit, looks much better in my opinion. What does the poorboy kit cost and will it fit on a 1100 Interstate?
____________________
1978 Honda CB350 My first street bike (sold)
1984 Yamaha Maxium 650 (sold)
1981 Kawasaki KZ750 (traded)
1982 Kawasaki KZ1000LTD (sold)
2004 Kawasaki 800 Vulcan Classic (wrecked)
1993 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 (sold)
1983 Honda Goldwing GL1100 Interstate
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westgl
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Posted: Tue Jul 29th, 2008 07:25 pm | 13th Post |
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You Can buy the Poor Boy kit from Don Piggot
His E-mail: don_pigott@yahoo.com
I think the kit was $175.00 for his kit, Then you need a Alternator, I used a Alternator. e-mail Don for a current quote.
Nippon Denso 50 amp Alternator w/ internal voltage regulator for a
"1993 Geo Metro". Alternator puts out about 14.3 volts at 1500rpm(my original Generator put 14.3volts at 2500rpm) Generator put out at a higher rpm in compared to Alternators. Can be rebuilt with new brushes for about $20.00.
I think the Alternator from Napa was about $180.00 + core charge $50.00 so figure around $250.00 this inclues the little bit of wire you have to buy to wire direct to the battery, and a belt to drive the alternator. I also put a real small digital LED volt gauge this is optional $25.00
so about $425.00 I think my Napa dealer gave me a bit of a discount. You have to explain to him that you are converting your bike to all Napa repair and maintenance parts. they may give you a discount like they did me.
Westgl
____________________
1988 GL1500/6 Phantom Grey (current) 74K
1986 GL1200 Interstate,Burgany Metalic Black (current)40K
1982 CB750 Nighthawk
1979 CX500 Red
1971 SL250 Gold/White
1971 CT90 Yellow
1970 CT70 Red
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james013168
Active Member
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Posted: Tue Jul 29th, 2008 10:53 pm | 14th Post |
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| Thanks for the info westgl. Will that give me more power to run extra lights? I put light racks on back of my bike and two small driving lights on front but hooked them up to switchs so I can turn them on and off as I want.
____________________
1978 Honda CB350 My first street bike (sold)
1984 Yamaha Maxium 650 (sold)
1981 Kawasaki KZ750 (traded)
1982 Kawasaki KZ1000LTD (sold)
2004 Kawasaki 800 Vulcan Classic (wrecked)
1993 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 (sold)
1983 Honda Goldwing GL1100 Interstate
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westgl
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Posted: Tue Jul 29th, 2008 11:27 pm | 15th Post |
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Yes, you should be able to.
What wattages did you add/change?
Original is 360watt for a 1986 GL1200-Interstate.
I put a brighter headlight, 4 additional running lights 2 each side front and rear on mine. Two extra tail lights. Then I put two extra 55watt driving lights, you can see that just the extra driving lights alone is 110watts additional. It is easy to use up that original 360watts fast.
To figure your new wattage take your Voltage x Amps
Mine is 14.3volts x 50Amps = 715 watts
Not to bad, just about doubled my wattage from stock, another plus is that the voltage is made at a lower rpm of only 1500 rpm (2500rpm for 14.3volts with stock)
NICE ! ! ! ! 
For me this conversion is a must have, that and the Spin-on Oil filter adaptor from randakk
Westgl
____________________
1988 GL1500/6 Phantom Grey (current) 74K
1986 GL1200 Interstate,Burgany Metalic Black (current)40K
1982 CB750 Nighthawk
1979 CX500 Red
1971 SL250 Gold/White
1971 CT90 Yellow
1970 CT70 Red
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sfox991244
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Posted: Fri Aug 8th, 2008 06:11 pm | 16th Post |
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Glad to see others have used the DT Alternator kit also. I installed the kit over the last couple weekends on an 86 Aspencade, and although the instructions are a little vague was able to get the kit fully installed and the bike running. The guys from DT were very helpful with a couple calls I made to them. And I am in no way a mechanic. I could do it from scratch again in a couple hours.
I am having trouble with the timimg. I have the crankshaft in the lined up position "T" straight on its mark, and both camshaft pulleys in the straight up position. The bike starts but will not even idle, plus alot of backfiring.
Any ideas or pointers anyone could give me. In the process of putting the kit on, I had to flip the right side cam pulley as it was on 'backwards', this allowed the new alternator pulley to fit into the keyway. This made me have to remove that belt and reinstall. Does that belt have to go on a certain way? No one locally will look at it for less than $200. I am in Northern Cal, any one know someone who knows enough to just set the timimg outside of a shop?
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2slim
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Posted: Tue Aug 12th, 2008 05:57 am | 17th Post |
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It is interesting to read the comments here. I am glad there are choices
when is comes to conversion kits. I chose the Dupli-Tech kit over the Poor Boy simply because the major moving parts are encased rather then in the open so to speak. Now I'm not posting this to degrade one sytem or the other. But just to give you my thought process in selecting the Dupli-Tech over the Poor Boy. Both systems have their good points and their downsides. Both have compromises, but both are way better then the poorly designed factory system.
The alternator on my Dupli-tech install does not stick out any further the radiator, well maybe a 1/2 inch or so. Granted, I will not win any "best of show" with the bikes that I have installed the kit on (two 84I's). I won't be entering any shows anyway. I just want to ride.
To some, the cost and the alternator location are the downsides of the DT system. You make a good point and I fully respect your opinion. A third area is the exposure of the back side of the alternator. The cost and location doesn't concern me as much as the exposure to the elements. I am working on a design for a protective sheild, as it were, to reduce the exposure. We'll see how it goes.
As for the Poor Boy....It is a great system also. But as you think the design through, you will see the compromises. I will leave that to you. This is not a criticism, just an observation.
Bottom line....both are excellant attempts at circumventing a factory flaw in order to keep us ridin' and a smile on our faces.
Peace!
____________________
Sometimes the wisest person is dressed in the rudest clothing.
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fysty-1
Senior Member
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Posted: Sat Aug 16th, 2008 12:09 am | 18th Post |
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Guys. I wonder if your -comment would change if that unit was a supercharger instead of an altenator. We have all seen and heard the phrase " to each his own". Well I think that fits here. I think that idea is a good one but like so many I prefer Don's. And that is what I have got. 
____________________
Angela "fysty-1" Dodds
White Rock, B.C.
"Baby Blue" 1985 Gold Wing GL1200 Interstate Hybrid
"Blue may not be the fastest but it is the Prettiest"
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