| Clutch and Brake Bleeding tip | Rate Topic |
| Moderators: redbaron, MDKramer, Flyone, AZgl1500 | Page:   1 2 3 4   |
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| Posted: Thu Mar 12th, 2009 04:09 am | 21st Post |
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Haven't had any issues with fluid affecting the pump. Most brake fluid reservoirs are made of plastic like your rear brake reserve and most cars too, right, so you need'nt worry. Just keep the stuff away from painted surfaces. Try and find some clear tubing so you can see the air bubbles passing through, and can better see when they stop. Post a note here when your done, so we can hear how it went.
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| Posted: Thu Mar 12th, 2009 04:17 am | 22nd Post |
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Another tip to flushing and bleeding brakes. For each wheel, fill a container half full with liquid. Attach a vacuum hose to the bleeder valve and insert the other end into the container filled with liquid. Loosen the bleeder valve. Proceed to pump the brakes. Be careful to watch brake fluid level in master cylinder. DO NOT allow the master cylinder to run completely out of brake fluid. Run several "full" master cylinders through. All air in the brake system will be purged. Make sure to tighten the bleeder valve BEFORE removing the vacuum hose. This works with cars too. Imagine bleeding the brakes by yourself on a car in a fourth of the time it takes two men doing the pump 3 times and hold it method.
____________________  Two Wheels Down, Shiny Side Up GWRRA Member Region H, Tx/Chapter P Join the Steve Saunders version of the GOLD BOOK. SSGB Online Helper's Direc |
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| Posted: Tue Mar 17th, 2009 11:21 pm | 23rd Post |
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Great Idea, I've used this before...and cheap too!
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| Posted: Wed Mar 18th, 2009 12:41 am | 24th Post |
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Great idea busdriver! How about a variation on that theme, cut off the suction tube from the pump and keep the bottle. Drill a snug fitting hole in the bottle to fit a nylon hose barb or just shove the tubing through into the bottle and seal it with some goop. That way you could pump away and the bottle would catch the fluid
____________________ If you can't ride, fly or sail it, why bother? 2001 Goldwing 1800 Paul W. |
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| Posted: Wed Mar 18th, 2009 04:17 am | 25th Post |
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Make one up and post a picture. I want to see what that looks like. I can't figure out how that would work, as you need the suction tube to pull the brake fluid from the bike.
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| Posted: Wed Mar 18th, 2009 06:21 am | 26th Post |
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I've had several pump bottles that tend to pull flat due to suction when you're using them. So if you had a tube attached to the bottle it would provide suction on the tube. I just looked at a couple spray bottles in the garage, one has a small vent up under the cap that could be sealed with a bit of sealant. If one was to turn the pump upside down, half fill the screw cap with RTV and screw it back on the bottle leaving it upside down for a few hours to dry it should seal up any venting in the spray cap. Your original method would be simpler for sure but if you wanted to capture the fluid that came out it would be handy if it went into the bottle. As I said it's only a variation on your orginal idea which was really a good one. It's always cool to find a cheap or free way to make a tool for a job. Your pump ought to help a lot on clutch bleeding and the front linked brake caliper for those that don't have a regular vacuum bleeder.
____________________ If you can't ride, fly or sail it, why bother? 2001 Goldwing 1800 Paul W. |
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| Posted: Wed Mar 18th, 2009 07:56 am | 27th Post |
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Actually you gave me an idea. Using the liquid hand soap pump shown in my photos, just connect a second piece of tubing to he output side of the pump and run it to a bottle. Maybe a water bottle with a cap, make a hole in he cap and feed that tubing into it. Gonna try that next time. Thanx for the encouragement.
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| Posted: Wed Mar 18th, 2009 08:05 am | 28th Post |
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PS: We always stay at the Super 8 in Phoenix (next door to the Pear Tree truck center) on our trips to California. Love that area. You live in a great place Exavid.
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| Posted: Thu Mar 19th, 2009 02:39 am | 29th Post |
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How many bleeder ports are there for the brakes? One for the front at the caliper. I imagine one in the back, and where is the port for the clutch. My clutch fluid is looking a little dark and I need to replace it. Your method looks and sounds the way to go. Thanks
____________________ 95 Aspencade 04 Rubicon - AJE / SAJE |
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| Posted: Thu Mar 19th, 2009 04:11 am | 30th Post |
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There is a bleeder nipple (port as you put it) on each brake caliper (2 front, 1 rear) and a separate one for the clutch, left side of bike behind and below the engine under a small rubber sleeve or boot.
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| Posted: Thu Mar 19th, 2009 06:20 am | 31st Post |
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busdriver wrote: Actually you gave me an idea. Using the liquid hand soap pump shown in my photos, just connect a second piece of tubing to he output side of the pump and run it to a bottle. Maybe a water bottle with a cap, make a hole in he cap and feed that tubing into it. Gonna try that next time. Thanx for the encouragement. It really helps if you have a method to catch the fluid, sometimes it takes a lot of fluid pumped through to get all the bubbles especially in the front linked brake. Yes I do live in a nice area. I think you meant the PETRO station. I spent quite a few hours in your town driving tour and charter buses. Kids, tourists et al. I retired for the second time after driving charter buses out of Puyallup (Totem Coaches) and Seattle (Starline). I thought I had all that out of my system but today I was out on my bike and a fairly new Prevost 45 pulled up behind me. Sure had the urge again, but I tightened my helmet strap until it choked me and got over it. 
____________________ If you can't ride, fly or sail it, why bother? 2001 Goldwing 1800 Paul W. |
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| Posted: Thu Mar 19th, 2009 06:44 am | 32nd Post |
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This is a cool idea and simple. Here is an other for the most stuborn air bubbles: Power Vacuum Bleeder: Simple and Homemade What you need: • Strong vacuum source (car engine or Shop Vac) • Large glass jar for collection container • Clear ¼” and 3/8” plastic line – it’s cheap and found in the plumbing section • Vacuum kit/adapters if needed – I used pieces of the above hose • An assistant will be most useful to pour fluid • Common sense -- stop here if you don’t have it or are accident prone How it works: This method uses a strong and constant vacuum to pull the fluid and air out through the bleeder quickly and easily -- there is no pussyfooting. The vacuum method is not new, but this method is inexpensive and the surest method to purge trapped air. With strong and steady suction, the both air and fluid are swiftly sucked out the bleeder. Setup: Two snug holes are drill in the jar lid and then two pieces of hose are cut to length as needed. The 1/4” hose is the vacuum hose and it goes in one inch. The 3/8” hose is the bleeder suction hose and goes to the bottom. The 3/8” hose is used here because it fits on the bleeder fitting. Don’t add fluid to the jar -- it fills quickly. Open the reservoir filler cap and fill to brim. Open the first bleeder wide for maximum flow – it’s important. Attach the ¼” vacuum hose below the throttle plate vacuum somewhere and then apply the 3/8” bleeder suction hose to the first bleeder. Suction out a few ounces or until its looks clean then move to the next. If your system has any of the extra components like equalizers for front/rear brakes or anti-lock brakes, you must find and bleed them, they could be the reason for trapped air. I used a car engine because the ¼” hose fits easily on most fittings and it’s powerful. The 3/8” hose fits on most bleeder fittings. The ¼” and 3/8” hose can slip together as in the picture and small piece make good adapters. You can use any size hose you want. The jar doubles as a collection container and vacuum reservoir; and captures the waste fluid so it does not enter the engine. Don’t over fill the container and suck it in the engine -- it smokes! Open the bleeders wide for maximum volume flow -- this is most important. Swift, steady flow sucks out the trapped air. The pump-and-squirt method pressurizes the system and the air is forced into the high cavities. Suction depressurizes and siphons the air away! You will only see foaming vacuum bubbles coming from the bleeders – the air bubbles blend in. The fluid never gets clear -- just streaming foam. You should really have an assistant to pour in brake fluid -- as it goes down fast, but you can manage alone. An uncapped reservoir will shoot fluid out if pumped -- watch the eyes. You probably can skip applying grease around the loose fittings. Small leaks in the hose setup are okay with plenty of vacuum to spare, no need to get fanatical. If you really want to make sure all air is purged, pump-and-squirt one last time with a small crack of the bleeder. Shop VAC: If you a Shop VAC, a flat piece of material will firmly plant itself against the end of the vacuum hose, so drill a ¼” hole and insert the vacuum hose, then turn on vacuum and it will hold itself in place. The Bleeding Facts: Bleeding the system is to purge air. Spongy or no brakes means air in the system. Bleeding is simple if there is no trapped air. First, try the simple method as it does work often. Pump the brakes, hold the peddle down, then open and close the bleeder. If you release before closing the bleeder, it sucks air in. Repeat until only fluid squirts out. If this fails, it’s because it moves too little too slow. One pump equals one squirt – it only nudges trapped air. One vacuum application can suck the system dry in less than a minute or two. It’s a breeze changing and flushing fluid. The idea is to move trapped air faster than it can move backwards. Vacuum action leaves no bubble behind. Testimony: First used on my Goldwing’s front spongy brakes with vertical lines years ago. After much wasted time and frustration I made this gadget. It’s never failed me on any vehicle, even anti-lock systems. It’s one of the best homemade devises I have made. I still have the original Lipton Instant Tea jar with plastic lid. I never tried it with a Shop VAC, only my 4-cylinder S-10. Finally, after years of trying all the tricks of the trade, I beat a most frustrating job with killer simple homemade jar gadget! It makes me smile. Attachment: Brakes Illustration done (Medium).jpg (Downloaded 809 times)
____________________ Ole Guy |
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| Posted: Thu Mar 19th, 2009 07:53 am | 33rd Post |
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That's hysterical, cause I used to drive charter buses too back in the eighties for 6 years from Vancouver (Classic Limousine, Horizon Coach Lines) to all points in the US and Canada year round. For the past 18 years I have driven transit bus. And unless they changed the name it is the Pear Tree Truck Stop on I-5 @ Fern Valley Rd. just south of you in Phoenix Ore.
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| Posted: Sun Mar 22nd, 2009 12:22 am | 34th Post |
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I bled my brakes today using the pump to start with, but i bought about 3-4 feet of 1/4"I.D. clear silicone tubing, and i found it just as easy to put the other end of the tubing in my mouth and build up suction in my mouth to bleed them. That way i had total control of the suction, could watch the fluid come through the hose, could tell when the fresh new clear fluid started coming out of the calipers. I found by the time that the fluid got half-way through the tubing, you had better be putting fluid in the resivoir or you are going to be sucking air. I never did have to worry about the fluid getting in my mouth, it was done bleeding long before it got close enough to me. After i was through, i just drained the fluid into the empty bottle the sprayer came with. I could not get the rear to bleed that way, as soon as i would crack the bleeder valve it would suck all kinds of air and i could not get any fluid out, so i decided i would have to do it the old fashioned way, with the foot brake, but i could not mash the brake pedal and work the bleeder valve at the same time, so i decided to use the bikes center stand as a fulcrum with my prybar, used a bungie cord on one end to work the pedal, and then i just pulled up on the prybar and held it, used my other hand to break the bleeder. It worked like a dream!!!!! Attachment: IMG00021.jpg (Downloaded 774 times) Last edited on Sun Mar 22nd, 2009 12:52 am by 1999JagWing ____________________ http://www.myspace.com/supertrkre2812 It is called a "DEER ALERT". It lets the deer know you are coming, that way if the deer wants to kill you or commit suicide, it will have the time to prepare for the attack!!!!!! |
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| Posted: Sun Mar 22nd, 2009 01:23 am | 35th Post |
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Hey thats a great Idea! Im going to patent that!! 
____________________ Slow Ride, Take it easy....Yea Right! 2012 GL1800 Gold Wing GWRRA NC-L2, Lake Norman Wings http://www.freewebs.com/gwrranc-l2/ |
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| Posted: Fri May 15th, 2009 07:20 pm | 36th Post |
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just wanted to say thank you .your system worked great. i'm back on the road again
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| Posted: Fri May 15th, 2009 07:38 pm | 37th Post |
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Thank you. I've never had any problems bleeding the brakes on a Wing even after replacing all brake hoses and rebuilding calipers, but, if I do encounter problems I'll be sure to put your great ideas to use. Vic
____________________ http://www.gl1200goldwings.com/ A place for GL1200's to gather. |
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| Posted: Sat May 23rd, 2009 03:47 pm | 38th Post |
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That's way to easy ,,,thanks a bunch
____________________ Michael Berry |
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| Posted: Sat May 23rd, 2009 04:35 pm | 39th Post |
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Glad to help. I get so much great information from this forum, so it feels good to give back.
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| Posted: Sat May 23rd, 2009 08:49 pm | 40th Post |
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thats agreat and cheap idea "smarter not harder"
____________________ Rick |
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