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Clutch and Brake Bleeding tip  Rate Topic  
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 Posted: Thu Jun 25th, 2009 04:50 pm 41st Post
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tattkatt
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I used this one this morning. Mines a little different.

   I went to Lowes, first thing was picked out a spray bottle for$1.79. I needed small tubing for the stem on the bottle. The plunger moves with the trigger on this one. I found some .170 id by 1/4 od that fit on the stem, slid that up 2in.  I then used the 1/4 id hose over the 1/4od. I found that leaving the top off the M/C so I could fill as I go. Crack the bleeder loose and open with the hose.

  I directed the spray nozzle into a paper towell in my oil drain pan. A dozen pumps and I was done for under $3.00 Thanks a bunch!!!!!

 Posted: Thu Jun 25th, 2009 11:38 pm 42nd Post
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mikeb13us
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That's a great idea ,,thanks for making me think...:)



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 Posted: Sat Jun 27th, 2009 04:18 am 43rd Post
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larrycole
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Tricks for brake bleeding- First, I have replaced brake components on several wings with no problem bleeding, I wasn't sure what all the fuss was about. Then I put new lines on my 1100 and bled about a gallon of fluid through the system without getting a firm lever. I decided that instead of trying to push air bubbles down, when they want to go up, why not let them go up? I removed each front caliper, while leaving the line attatched, held caliper above the master and bled it, being careful to loosen and tilt the junction to allow air to rise to the elevated caliper. I then reattached the caliper and did the other one, it worked. After doing all that, I looked on E-Bay and found a double banjo bolt for the junction block with a built in bleeder. Not sure of the seller, just go to motorcycle parts and enter "Banjo bolt" and you'll find it. I think the junction block is where the bubbles hide and cause all the problems. I've ordered the bleeder banjo bolt, but I won't install it until I break the system down again. Hope this helps.

Attachment: 3k83m23o4ZZZZZZZZZ94q830f5857ca4a1883.jpg (Downloaded 575 times)



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 Posted: Sat Jun 27th, 2009 05:43 am 44th Post
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Wingle
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Hey thanks Busdriver, neat idea I'll be doing my rear brakes tomorrow and I'll give it a try. Have some mana on me.



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 Posted: Sat Jun 27th, 2009 03:44 pm 45th Post
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Xtracho
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My 14 year old daughter thanks you! Now she doesn't have to sit there and pump the pedal while daddy opens and closes the bleeder valve!



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 Posted: Sun Jun 28th, 2009 10:51 am 46th Post
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Mr Magic Fingers
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Hi,

 

I built an electric pump. I "refreshed" my brakes and front forks with it. It was awesome.

 

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/73104.html

 

Tim.

 

 

 

 

Attachment: 100_0409_resize.jpg (Downloaded 552 times)



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 Posted: Tue Jun 30th, 2009 08:12 pm 47th Post
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wingnut
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These are really brilliant ideas. I thought I'd seen it all from working in a garage, but this idea is new and so simple. 


I've edited Busdriver's opening post so the photo is displayed there and I'll move the thread to the Reference forum now and leave a redirect here.



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 Posted: Wed Jul 1st, 2009 01:52 am 48th Post
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technit
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This one's a keeper!!!!!!!!!!!!  GL1800 watc out, I'm comin  to get your fluids tomorrow morning!!!

Thanks  a lot!

 Posted: Sun Jul 5th, 2009 10:26 pm 49th Post
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Swaggerman
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What a great idea Cheers



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 Posted: Fri Oct 30th, 2009 08:44 pm 51st Post
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BARTON
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I have been around and have seen a lot of ways to make tools, but that is so simple everyone must have not thought about it.

 Posted: Sun Jan 24th, 2010 05:21 am 52nd Post
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TwoWheelsTebo
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I just learned this trick from a pilot friend of mine a few weeks ago.  He uses this on his airplane.  The other way that he uses this is for a complete fluid change.  For that, he completely drains the lines and the master.  Then he takes the spray nozzle off of the pump and attaches another piece of tubing to it.  He then connects the tube coming off the spray nozzle end to the bleeder valve and puts the suction end in to this can of new fluid.  Then as he pumps, it fills his lines from the bottom up.  Since the air bubbles naturally want to rise, when he sees the fluid filling the master from the bottom up, you know the line is already free of air bubbles.



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 Posted: Sun Jan 24th, 2010 06:06 am 53rd Post
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exavid
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busdriver wrote: That's hysterical, cause I used to drive charter buses too back in the eighties for 6 years from Vancouver (Classic Limousine, Horizon Coach Lines) to all points in the US and Canada year round. For the past 18 years I have driven transit bus.

And unless they changed the name it is the Pear Tree Truck Stop on I-5 @ Fern Valley Rd. just south of you in Phoenix Ore.

Sorry I missed this one months ago busdriver but the listing is for the Petro Truck Stop at I-5 Exit 24. I don't know when they changed the name. When I was driving bus from Seattle/Tacoma to CA I usually stopped at the Witham truck stop at exit 30. That was before they changed the I-5/Highway 62 interchange and made a mess of it.

 

[url=http://www.truckstopinfoplus.com/location_specifics.asp?stop=Petro Stopping Center No.24&city=PHOENIX&state=Oregon]Petro Truck Stop
[/url]



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 Posted: Sun Feb 21st, 2010 10:44 pm 54th Post
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Heavyduty053
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Nice idea, thanks my goldie has been setting up all winter and now it has air in the clutch line. gonna make me one

 Posted: Mon Feb 22nd, 2010 01:07 pm 55th Post
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96aspencade
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Welcome to the site HeavyDuty :clapper::clapper: ( not to be confided with HD), You should skip over to the "New Members" area & introduce your self. Those bleeders to work real fine. :action::action::action:

Last edited on Mon Feb 22nd, 2010 06:53 pm by 96aspencade



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 Posted: Mon Feb 22nd, 2010 02:13 pm 56th Post
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Kit Carson
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Mr Magic Fingers wrote: Hi,

 

I built an electric pump. I "refreshed" my brakes and front forks with it. It was awesome.

 

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/73104.html

 

Tim.

 

 

 

 
Hey:

You win the contest :smiler:  You could also take a piece of 4 inch pvc and mount that to the base board then you can just sit the waste bottle into that, do not have to be fussing with the straps. 

We have a big one, made out of an old HVAC vacuum pump and a larger bottle, you can line up a dozen bikes, have them all take the covers loose, and take the tin can out of the way of the clutch bleeder and do them all in an hour.  Train them to carefully add fluid to the master cylinder as you do the bleed process and it goes quick.  Show the first guy how to take the cowling and tin can off, it is kinda like dominoes, as the line up they all help each other, and then send them to one side to put the tin can and cowlings back on. 

Neat deal.

Sure beats those hand gadgets.

You can use these little hand pumps to obtain the correct level of fluid in the forks very easily too. Just run the tube through a scrap section of board, cut the tube off at the correct length pump away and there you go, fluid at the right level.

Kit



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 Posted: Mon Feb 22nd, 2010 06:48 pm 57th Post
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redbaron
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I am always amazed on how some really old threads get a "new" life, But this thread has helped many many of our members do a once dreaded job into a piece of cake job...So many great ideas and very inventive ways to do it...Cheap too I might add.....Some one just posted in another forum about bleeding brakes and I told them about Nightwizards "invention" of using old medical oxygen tubing and a large syringe to do the job with....I used it on mine doing the reverse method....Worked like a charm.....



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 Posted: Tue Feb 23rd, 2010 02:40 pm 58th Post
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also when done bleeding with what ever method or tool you use after closeing system place a rubberband or small bungee cord to pull light pressure on lever let sit over night any micro air bubles will be forced to top of resivor and escape through vent.



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 Posted: Sun May 16th, 2010 02:50 am 59th Post
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lopeha
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After pulling on the brake lever for about 45 minutes I came in to the website to see what I was doing wrong. Lo & behold I found this thread & now the bleeding process is done. Thanks for the tip!



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 Posted: Mon Jun 14th, 2010 09:56 pm 60th Post
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clagrow
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Used this thread's advice and did this last weekend and it worked like a charm... I used clear tubing to be able to see the bubble sin the clutch (DOT4) fluid. Thanks for the "pump" idea.

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