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wingnut
Admin 1
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Posted: Tue Aug 19th, 2008 06:51 pm | 1st Post |
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I've copied this (slightly edited) from part 8 of the Bikers Workshop part of the site. You can download this actual forum page in pdf format by right-clicking the .pdf icon here and "save target (or link) as" to a location on your computer;
The stock mufflers on the GL1500 Goldwing tend to rust after a few years. It doesn't really matter how much you clean them because the design means that they tend to collect condensation which turns into water, then the dreaded tinworm rots them from the inside out. There is a drain hole in each muffler (near the front) to allow some water out, but the hole is really in the wrong place as the mufflers almost always rot at the ends near where the tailpipe is welded on.
Replacing mufflers on the GL1500 Goldwing is easy enough and you really don't need a tutorial for the task. But I did have a camera handy on the day I did the job so you may as well have the benefit of the images.
This is a common sight on a GL1500 Goldwing. The mufflers rot from the inside out and eventually the ends just blow off. Believe it or not, these mufflers are on a 1997 GL1500SE with only 7,700 miles that was always stored in a dry garage! I replaced them in April 2004 and they had been almost as bad as this since 2002, but the owner of the Goldwing wasn't using it much so he didn't bother replacing them until 2004.
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First thing to do is remove the two side undercowls. The small bolts to remove are highlighted here, same on the other side of the bike.
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The bolt holding the muffler to the frame. The actual nut is not welded to the frame, so you will need to get a 12mm spanner to it in order to prevent the whole lot turning. Tip; Make sure and note that the lug on the muffler sits on the INSIDE of the mount on the sub-frame. Lots of folks have mistakenly refitted them with the lug on the outside and the view from the rear looks rather silly!
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The clamp holding the left muffler to the collector box. The quick-snap bolts often break when trying to remove them, use plenty of WD40 or similar. It's a good idea to buy a pair of clamps just in case the rusted ones fall apart. When you get the bolts out, spread the clamp a little bit.
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Gently rock the muffler from side to side, then swivel it outwards and pull it off. Tip; While you have access to the collector box, clean off any visible rust with a wire brush or steel wool. Then spray some Very High Temperature (VHT) paint on as much of the box as you can get to. This simple step may extend the life of the (very expensive to replace) collector box by several years.
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The right side muffler being slipped on. A new gasket and lots of WD40 helps. The old clamps were salvaged for re-use on this Goldwing. After you swivel the muffler into position and put the frame bolt into its slot, put the bolts into the clamp and tighten them up. Using copper grease on the bolts may slow down the rate at which they will seize up later on.
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New mufflers fitted. Replace the cowls, using copper grease on the bolts.
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Steve Saunders,
Admin and Founder Member.
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carveric
Member
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Posted: Thu Oct 2nd, 2008 03:15 am | 2nd Post |
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| Where can a guy buy new replacement mufflers like the ones you installed on this bike?
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road_rascal
Member
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Posted: Fri Oct 3rd, 2008 04:41 am | 3rd Post |
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| Right side muffler (18310-MW5-000) and the left side (18410-MW5-000) (1996-1997 years) are $192.90 each from Service Honda dot com. If mine ever get that bad I may just get the TorqMaster Daytona mufflers for $300.
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Thomas K.
1998 Aspencade, 1997 Nighthawk 750, 1982 Yamaha XS400J, 1999 Yamaha SH50
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Wingle
Very Active Member
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Posted: Sun Oct 5th, 2008 02:24 am | 4th Post |
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I have a set of Jardine turned down mufflers on my GL1500. They were quite noisy because the baffles had rotted out and I talked to Jimmy Sones at Torquemaster and got a set of his 2 7/8" x 4" inch baffles from him to fit inside the Jardines. I had to cut the turned down ends off and grind the welds off inside the mufflers. I also had to cut out some of the old rotted baffle with a sawz-all, but it was worth it. The baffles (pair) were less than $40 and well worth every cent.
I will get a set of new exhausts from them, TorqueMaster, when it is time to replace them finally. Their service was top notch and Jimmy's service was exceptional. Post was quick.Last edited on Sun Oct 5th, 2008 02:27 am by Wingle
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Opinions are like toothbrushes. Everybody has one, so there's no need to share. - Red Green
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Dragoon
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Posted: Wed Oct 29th, 2008 09:39 pm | 5th Post |
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| On my Valk, I drilled the baffles and cut the pigies. It sound like a well tuned Ferrari. Can that be done on the GL? If so, will it improve the sound? I may not want to because this will be my touring bike and not my show bike. Comments please?
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2000 Valk Standard highly tuned
1995 Goldwing 20th anaversary SE
Self confessed wing nut
Cant get enough of those flat sixs
VERY PROUD PGR
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