| GL1200 Fork Seal Tutorial |
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| Moderators: redbaron, MDKramer, Flyone, AZgl1500 | Page:   1 2 3 4 5 6 |
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| Posted: Tue Sep 6th, 2011 06:37 am | 101st Post |
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bladeruner wrote: Well I took the 1981 GL1100 forks apart today, didn't think I was going to get the socket head cap screws out of the bottom of the forks. Finally they came out, got the dust covers off and the right side was kinda of rusty under neath, after much tiring got those c clips off. Used the lower forks legs as a slide hammer and they came apart, however the top bushing stayed inside the lower tubes. I don't know to get them out? Also, on top of the seals there was a very thin washer. the right side was causing the rust. My replacement kit I bought from honda did not include those washers. Any suggestions? The one time that the bushing stayed inside a tube, I used a screwdriver that was bent 90*. If you try this, be very careful not to scratch the inside of the tube. As far as the washer goes, if you have everything else listed in post #14, then I do not think that the washer is required. I don't remember installing the washer on previous rebuilds. Perhaps another member is more knowledgable about this washer.
____________________ Scott Traveling fork rebuilding and motorcycle delivery available. Fork seal tutorial http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum9/72576.html 86 GL1200 Aspencade |
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| Posted: Sun Sep 25th, 2011 02:33 am | 102nd Post |
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This is a good picture of 1100 fork with part #'s. http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/view_post.php?post_id=1404387
____________________ Scott Traveling fork rebuilding and motorcycle delivery available. Fork seal tutorial http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum9/72576.html 86 GL1200 Aspencade |
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| Posted: Tue Sep 27th, 2011 05:26 pm | 103rd Post |
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I was finally able to get the washer (backup plates) out of the fork lowers, using a steel bar with a steel roll pin drilled through and inserted. I put vise grips on the other end and used a brass 5lb bammer and they (backup plates)came out without damaging the fork lowers. Thanks for the link that was helpful in seeing how the parts should be on the forks. I got all the parts in and tried putting on the right side last night using the PVC pipe on the fork and tried to push the seal in. So far the seal did not want to go in, and I had to stop.
____________________ Other bikes: Cushman Super Eagle Honda 350 sport Honda 450 sport BSA 650 |
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| Posted: Tue Sep 27th, 2011 11:23 pm | 104th Post |
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Try lubricating the seal with fork oil before you insert it into the tube.
____________________ Scott Traveling fork rebuilding and motorcycle delivery available. Fork seal tutorial http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum9/72576.html 86 GL1200 Aspencade |
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| Posted: Thu Sep 29th, 2011 04:01 pm | 105th Post |
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I had put grease on all parts and inside the lower legs top end, but maybe I'm trying to put everything in at the same time and that's not working. Dave0340 gave advise as to, put the bigger fork bushing in first and back up ring in place and then work the seal in. So I will try that next.
____________________ Other bikes: Cushman Super Eagle Honda 350 sport Honda 450 sport BSA 650 |
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| Posted: Fri Oct 7th, 2011 03:21 pm | 106th Post |
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Dan, nothing like learning from trial and error! One question, where do you put the oil in during the non-fork removal method? I cant seem to get a clear answer as to how to put oil in the tube while replacing seals without removing the spring. I am assuming you still remove the cap, just pour in the oil then retighten the cap, after getting seal installed. correct? thanks for any help if you get this or not, i know its been a few years since you posted this. James
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| Posted: Fri Oct 7th, 2011 03:30 pm | 107th Post |
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Yes, just remove the top caps and pour the oil into the tubes. I used a stick with markings on it to measure the fluid level.
____________________ Scott Traveling fork rebuilding and motorcycle delivery available. Fork seal tutorial http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum9/72576.html 86 GL1200 Aspencade |
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| Posted: Fri Oct 7th, 2011 03:58 pm | 108th Post |
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Scott, thanks for the input! got those off, no biggie but my problem is getting the seals seated. i have a bad left arm, especially when hammering or like activities. my left arm is numb from trying to drive that seal in there with the 1 1/2" pvc. i can see the top of the groove the circlip goes into, but i cant get it closer. i have been beating it off and on all night, I know, sounds personal, but I am talking about the fork seal! lol. i have moved a milk crate under the fork and using my good right arm to apply the hammering to the seal, but how hard and often do i need to beat it? i put atf on the seal to lubricate it as suggested earlier, is this just the painful part of the process noone has mentioned? thanks! James
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| Posted: Sat Oct 8th, 2011 09:53 pm | 109th Post |
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It shouldn't take that much work. Slowly compress the fork until it is compressed as far as you can get it. Mark it there and drop it down a couple of inches. That is where you want the pvc to be clamped to the upper fork. Making sure it is even and clamped good and tight, slide the bottom up quickly and it should seat easily. It shouldn't take more than a couple of quick "slams". I will try to get a couple more pictures soon. I have been meaning to update this thread with better pictures. I hope this helps.
____________________ Scott Traveling fork rebuilding and motorcycle delivery available. Fork seal tutorial http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum9/72576.html 86 GL1200 Aspencade |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 9th, 2011 03:33 am | 110th Post |
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Well, now that makes more sense! I was using the PVC with 2 hose clamps around it and trying to slam it into the seal!! but I think this is the point of whether or not to just take off the 2 pinch bolts and the top tree bolt and just do it the right way. All it takes is those 6 bolts and removal of the air hose between the fork tubes (which needs to be done to refill fork fluid anyway) and the whole pvc pipe fits right over the whole tube, and bam, in two slams you are done, reassemble and you learn more about forks!!! I think doing this with the forks remaining on the bike is way overrated. I enjoyed and think that removing the forks was much easier and more rewarding, since putting something so crucial back together in exact measures using correct torques is worth the effort. My bike now runs smooth! that '82 feels new and smooth on the road! but thanks for the tutorial, i think i am ready to take on more fork seal jobs since some videos on youtube show that fork tubes are very similar and there is some money to be made in that department!
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| Posted: Thu Apr 26th, 2012 02:52 am | 111th Post |
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I read everything I could here and on the GL1200 site. Then with my Clymers book in hand I took it apart. Used the additional info from the forums and it went smooth. I took them all the way off and used the bench to work on them. I put my 250 lbs on the cap and got it back on in one try... https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2615316681949.94162.1826049479&type=1&l=df08faeb20 Delvis
____________________ Delvis 1985 GL1200 Aspencade http://dgmccool.tripod.com/ U.S. Army Veteran 76-86 |
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