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Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums > Forums > Reference and FAQ Forum > Single Carb Conversions for 4 Cylinder Goldwings

Single Carb Conversions for 4 Cylinder Goldwings  Rating:  Rating  
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 Posted: Sat Sep 12th, 2009 07:26 pm 81st Post
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Bschofield



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AZgl1500 wrote: will be very interested in your project as you go along Barry.

I take it that you are just as comfortable in Spanish as our home language.


LOL sometimes I have to be careful if i hear an accent, as i automatically start speaking spanish..... and then the funniest part is that i am the whitest, yuppy looking guy there is, and it shocks everyone! and... I have a colombian accent due to my wife being my primary teacher...

honestly, I was thinking of doing a EFI but due to complexity, and as others have stated being dumped in the middle of nowhere with no options..
so now after reading all the posts, i am leaning toward buying a LD setup.
I have really enjoyed learning from this topic



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Barry
 Posted: Sat Sep 12th, 2009 09:12 pm 82nd Post
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truckbouy2

 

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Bschofield... Your quote at the bottom about fear was FDR not Sir Winston.



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 Posted: Sat Sep 12th, 2009 09:40 pm 83rd Post
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grayglennsr



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Hey LDwingnut

I've looked at your setup and it appears very simple. Nice and clean.

I read what you say about that VW carb ( needing the .050 jet) but the one thing you don't say is exactly what kind of VW carb is it?
Do you have a model number or name?

I tried cross referencing it and I just don't have enough info to do it. So could you give me a part number or a year of VW it came from? Then maybe I could start trying to track down one locally.

Also how are you connecting the throttle cables and the choke cable? Did you have to fabricate something or just remount the Honda ones?

You only have one picture and its not clear enough to see or figure out. It might help sales if you add a few more pictures and show us the manifold you designed.
From some of the things written about on this thread it seems like your round chamber has to have a certain volume of space and the nice down angle so that it feeds the cylinders.

Also you don't advise what kind of air filter to use. Are there several types? Which one do you use? Which ones fits and which ones don't?

Sorry if these questions are kind of over simplistic but I am just getting started on this project and I'm full of questions.



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 Posted: Sat Sep 12th, 2009 10:07 pm 84th Post
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Bschofield



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truckbouy2 wrote: Bschofield... Your quote at the bottom about fear was FDR not Sir Winston.
Thank you sir, I stand corrected. that's what happens when you think you are quoting a reputable source without further investigation... I am humbled and embarrassed, but thank you for helping me to correct this. :shock:



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Barry
 Posted: Sun Sep 13th, 2009 02:44 am 85th Post
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Silicon Sam



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badorderbob2 wrote: Awhile back my friend Raymond using an oil heated manifold made by a gentleman from Germany, used a Weber 32/36 DGV and tuned it properly! After installing it he said when opening up the secondary it gave life to the bike like a small supercharger:action:!! The bike is currently owned by Silicon Sam if I'm not mistaken!! I am still in the process of using a Weber Holley 32/36 carb on my CI manifold:action: !! And for what it's worth I have used a CI setup for about 9 years and had little problems with it !! I really don't gave a care what anyone says about the single carbs pro/con I Love Mine and if I can upgrade mine to the 2 barrel, Great!! Life is too short PEACE OUT!!! :coollep:Bob
  Yeah, still got the bike from Raymond.  Got it in the garage, doing some maintenance on it.  Still ride the Interstate mainly.

  Have a spare CI kit now, will heat the manifold of one of the CI manifolds just to experiment.

Attachment: IMG_2435.jpg (Downloaded 689 times)

Last edited on Sun Sep 13th, 2009 02:49 am by Silicon Sam



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 Posted: Sun Sep 13th, 2009 02:51 am 86th Post
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CaptainMidnight85



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Silicon Sam wrote: badorderbob2 wrote:
  Have a spare CI kit now, will heat the manifold of one of the CI manifolds just to experiment.


Does it get cold enough down there?

 

 

 

Last edited on Sun Sep 13th, 2009 03:34 am by CaptainMidnight85



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 Posted: Sun Sep 13th, 2009 04:03 am 87th Post
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jojomon

 

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Hey Grey. I have had my 76 for about five years and it has transformed into so many differant bikes. It now has a road warrior look. I was fasinated at the thought of tearing into my bike and making something everyone else has not got. I seen the single carb setup and was hooked. My friend who has a machine that will eat aluminum like bread. He made me a little pressure cooker looking intake. It is eight inches in diameter and has a removable lid. I have a single brl rochester off my old Chevy. The throttle was easy to hook up. I run a little breather with an extension that comes out the top of the bike. I removed the lid. This thing is a beast now. It ran good before, but now it screams. Sounds great. I got some fishtails on it. The only drawback is you gotta get some gas proof hose inch and a half and trim to fit. I work on my bike to be part of it. I don't pay someone to work on my stuff. If you ride you should be able to fix the small stuff. I am no mechanic and I get on the internet and find answers and then do it. I did go down in gas milage by two miles, but the pep is worth it. Messes with the harley riders when they ask where is your carb, and I say it runs on a hydrogen cell, then start it and drive off. Do it buddy, just because you can. Jo

 Posted: Sun Sep 13th, 2009 10:34 pm 88th Post
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badorderbob



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That's great if you don't have to mess at any time with your carbs or anyone else for that matter!! But at the time I bought my GL (that I so dearly wanted for years but couldn't afford a new one), I finally found one that had set for a period of time and NO Goldwing Dealer would even look at my carbs (10 yr. old bike rule):(! And also at that time, I didn't have the knowledge to rebuild mine but took the dive and tried:cheeky1:!! That turned out to be the most expensive thing and scarey thing at the time to do with results that where so discouraging, I was about ready to give up!!!:shock:!! That's why when I was able to purchase the CI set up I jumped at it and since then I have learned a little more about carbs (just enough to get me in trouble:gunhead:)!!! If I had the information I had back then, that Mr Washington has about rebuilding carbs and maintaining them, I would have keep my OEM's ;)!! What really bothers me is when we are at least trying to get our bikes back on the road, there's criticism as to how it's done!! This has always been an issue at any site when these type of conversions are addressed!! I understand both the Pro&Cons about not running OEM and I applaud those who have the original carbs and the same for those who have taken the time to create other conversions:clapper:!!! It's not my intentions at trying to make a political statement on this topic but wish those well in better understanding of those who have made these decisions there own:cool::cool:!!!  S.Sam keep us informed as how you heated your CI manifold, Good Luck:coollep: Bob

 Posted: Mon Sep 14th, 2009 08:16 pm 89th Post
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Cookie

 

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Bob,

I take it you have not needed to heat your CI setup? I plan on using my CI bike for a have fun on a nice day bike and my climate is moderate. I may not need to heat it at all.
My daily ride is a yellow 76 with almost everything stock except an extra ground wire and soldered stator leads.
My back up bike is a stock 76 LTD,it's nice to keep them stock if you have a choice.
As far as a long trip on an old bike I have a friend who drove an old R69 he fixed up here to China including a trip through Russia. He rebuilt it again and still rides it in China.
There was a really nicely done GL100 trip bike recently posted on NGW. He had those squareish panniers, a Poorboy conversion, cooler, extra fuel tank, and a lot more bits on it. Some of you guys who frequent both sites saw it I'm sure.
If I fixed one up to my satisfaction I'd have no worries about one on a trip.
With Greyhound busses I figured out the weak points and made 3,000,000 mile buses reliable coast to coast rides. No reason you could not do this with an old wing.



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 Posted: Mon Sep 14th, 2009 08:49 pm 90th Post
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badorderbob



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I have run copper tubing under the plenum and runners, insulated them last year but being aluminum it transferred too much heat, so I took the insulation off this year and so far haven't had to heat the plenim. Here in Indiana when the temps get to around 50 and down, the humidity high, it seems to cause the bike to stumble a little. When I turn on the heat, the stumbling goes away. The only time I heat the plenum is usually in the fall, Gotta Go Be Back Later:shock::cool: Bob

Last edited on Mon Sep 14th, 2009 08:50 pm by badorderbob

 Posted: Mon Sep 14th, 2009 10:07 pm 91st Post
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CaptainMidnight85



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FlatFour - What did you use for section 2 in the pic?
I'm using double rubbers (8 vs 4) and don't like it... A quick and dirty route IMO.
I've often thought other intake pieces must be close enough. Maybe even some header pieces...

 

Attachment: weber 211.JPG (Downloaded 765 times)

Last edited on Mon Sep 14th, 2009 10:10 pm by CaptainMidnight85



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 Posted: Tue Sep 15th, 2009 02:10 pm 92nd Post
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Dubswing



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I rode my 1100 with LD's manifold all winter with the temps at 30 degrees with no icing problems.

Bernie



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 Posted: Tue Sep 15th, 2009 04:13 pm 93rd Post
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Badobob



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Bernie, what type of material is it made out of?? Using the CI manifold is aluminum which to me (I'm no expert), doesn't totally ice but would on a humid 45-50 degree draw a little moisture causing it to stumble! I believe with the coolness of the gas going into the plenum, outside temps. at a certain degrees would causes this !! Again these are my own experiences and theories:D!! When I heat the plenum all of this goes away and when it gets even in the 30's this seemed to help. I had a slight hesitation but Without the heat it would stumble on take off !! I also was trying different carbs with a 3'' adapter which would ice up even on a 70' day:shock:!! Stopped using the that and went back to square one in my experiments!! This is how I run my tubing, not pretty but it works:D!! I hold it on with hose clamps for now!! In the future, I'm checking into using Chrome ties like I used before:D!! Funny looking but it works for me:cooldj:!! Later Bob

Last edited on Tue Sep 15th, 2009 04:14 pm by Badobob

 Posted: Tue Sep 15th, 2009 04:22 pm 94th Post
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CaptainMidnight85



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Do you use a shut-off for warmer weather?

 



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 Posted: Tue Sep 15th, 2009 04:26 pm 95th Post
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flatfour



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Captain,I found my kit on Ebay.Section 2 is most likely from section 1 .It seems to be angle cut re-welded and shortened to fit.The tubes are rather thin walled.
It's a measure twice cut once configuration.

It fits up real nice with no room for error.Better too long than too short as mods can be made to the straight end.
One would think by looking at this setup that the welds are also inside the runners but not so.Very clean!

A muffler shop could make theses rather easily from their stock.The single barrel would be easier to make than the 32/36 2 barrel which is identical dimensionaly to my 28/30 weber.
The carb fits up there where the stock air cleaner was.There is adequate room to get the throttle. choke choke cable and gas line in without any trouble.I used a phehnolic spacer to get the overall height just right.Weber rectangular aircleaner fits great and tool tray drops right in.

It took a quite a bit of time to get it just right.The condensation problem was more related to the lean jetting.Now that I upsized one larger jet #120 in the main and #110 in the secondary,put thinner gaskets between the heads and intake runner flanges,condensation is minimal and evaporates within 3 minutes(in the present weather conditions).
I can help with any questions to save you time.Its best to get it right the first time and not have to pull the carb out of the bike so many times as to get frustrated.My pain is your gain.
One really important mod is the method in which you will clamp/anchor your throttle cable.I had to trim 3/8 inch off of the threaded end and have enough left to use the two 10 mm lock nuts in the same way the stock carbs use the stock throttle cable anchoring.
This all depends on how you anchor the cable of course.Mine was going to hit the threaded end of the cable when throttle was opened past 2/3
Trimming it did the trick as you want to keep the cable on track to the carb,not putting stress on the the cable itself with a peculiar angle and still have a small bit of slack for idling purposes.I did all that with the carb sitting on top of the gas filler cap,making proper adjustments until the angles were just right.
I thought that aspect was crucial to the project.
Eventually, more pictures.(If i pull the setup out)Cant see too much when installed unless you see the honda up close and personal.

Flatfour

Last edited on Tue Sep 15th, 2009 04:29 pm by flatfour

 Posted: Tue Sep 15th, 2009 05:50 pm 96th Post
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Dubswing



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Bob, LD uses a mild steel tubing like the muffler shops use on exhausts.  He orders his with mandrel bends for smooth flow without restrictions.  He has worked on his manifold and carb combination for several years until the manifold and carb combo would work in any conditions you happen to be in.  I got his manifold and installed it with a later model VW carb and the manifold sweated so I knew it would ice as well.  I bought an old round style VW carb from a junk yard rebuilt it and it worked fine; no sweating no freezing regardless of humidity and temperature. 

I would like to add that, as a pilot of small aircraft, I am quite aware of the consequences of carb icing and that it can happen anytime in any season; it doesn't have to be cold at all.

I like the way you heat your manifold!  Very ingenious, simple and it works.  LD's manifold doesn't have a plenum box to collect and disrupt the flow from the carb to the engine and it is designed to work with the only carb he and I have found that will work without having to be heated. 

I think it is a great idea that one could use copper tubing strapped to any manifold to eliminate the possibility of it sweating and freezing if you happened to ride in severe conditions!  What ports did you use to plumb your heating element? 

We ride all year here in Knoxville and I ride in temps that drop into the 20s.  Last year was the first year I used heated riding gear and can tell you they make a world of difference!  I can ride all day no matter how cold it gets and remain comfortable.

I hope I have helped answer some of your questions!

Bernie



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 Posted: Wed Sep 16th, 2009 12:49 am 97th Post
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lizrdbrth

 

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Howdy,

 

I'm new to Goldwings, and this subject led me to join this forum.

 

I have already emailed Mr. "Wingnut" for one of his manifolds.

 

Interested in testimonials from other users concerning icing and fuel economy with this setup. I'm planning to use the bike for long distance (Iron Butt) stuff.

 Posted: Wed Sep 16th, 2009 04:39 am 98th Post
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Midnight, yes I shut off in hotter weather, last year during summertime when I had it insulated, it seemed to use more gas!! Silly as it sounds but the only conclusion I could come too was the plenum was too hot causing the gas to vaporize quicker before getting to ignite ( backyard thinking):D!! The plumbing, I'm using a 84 LTD water pump housing with the extra outlet ( Note: they are hard to find) rubber gas line to the copper tubes to the left cross-over tube thru the shut off. The shut off valve is a self tapping valve used for ice machines and other applications where you have to add an extra water line, so far no leaks but one but I just tightened down the valve a little and no more leaks.;) If anyone does do something like this, use the heavier walled tubing, it bends easier; the other kind cracks:shock:!!! When I did this, I bought an extra cross-over tubes just in cause I screwed things up and want to reverse what I done!!! So far I haven't had to turn on the heating coils but cooler weather is around the corner:(!!                                                                                                                    Bernie, I'm still planning to put my Holley/Weber 32/36 on and if I can't achieve what I want, I'll try a 28/30 Weber I have:cheeky1:!!!! And if that doesn't suite me, I may be looking into that VW winter Carb:dude::cheeky1:!!!                                              FlatFour,.. Are they worth it, YES I believe they are but then again if I knew what I know now and the info was at hand like Mr. Washington's How to info, back 9yrs, ago, I'd have kept the OEM:)!! BUT,.... what I have now, I'll never go back because she runs (for me ) very well!!! But.....Why another carb:shock:, 2 is better than 1:D:D:D!!! If and when I put the 32/36 on I'll post the outcome, but for now since the bike has been laid up for 2 months, I'm  RIDING:action::action::action::action::action: Later:goofygrin::cool:Bob

 Posted: Wed Sep 16th, 2009 11:51 am 99th Post
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Bob, Webers are good carbs.  I have spent more than my share of time rebuilding and synching webers, SUs and stromberg carbs on the British cars I have had the pleasure of working on and racing.  Finding the right combination of carb and jets just takes a little time.

To clarify something.  My friend LD is an old gentleman and master mechanic that has spent his life as a mechanic and a Wing rider.  He put together something  that he thought would benefit others that had the same problems he had with the oem carbs.  He isn't saying his is the best or only way to make a cheap reliable modification to the Wing fuel system.  He has just created something that works and has made it affordable to anyone who has a problem with their oem carbs and can't afford to rebuild them often.

He would much rather spend his last years on earth riding his older Wings but wants to give back to a sport that has afforded him so much pleasure. 

I appreciate what he has done to help all of us who love these old bikes and will help him whenever I can.  A grand old man giving something back, just as many of you help others everyday!

Bernie



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 Posted: Wed Sep 16th, 2009 05:54 pm 100th Post
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Cookie

 

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It takes a lot of sorting to do something like this. Seems like LD has done a lot of it for you.
I've been putting Kehins on my Norton since last winter, I'm still not sure I ahve it right.



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