| Single Carb Conversions for 4 Cylinder Goldwings |
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| Posted: Wed Apr 7th, 2010 10:40 pm | 1021st Post |
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Hey bob, Do you have the Dyna ignition on yours too? If so what do you have your spark plugs set at? .024 or .032?
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| Posted: Thu Apr 8th, 2010 05:59 am | 1022nd Post |
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Hay 78Wing, my year bike is an 81 electronic ignition with the vacum advance and on the CI conversion they use NGK plugs for the year 82-83 wing set at 22th's. I do a lot of around town running so I have to turn my air fuel mix 1/8 turn back in for a better read, not what I want but it won't foul out the plug. The CI setups that have the points, (pre 80) set the timing forward in 1/4 increments until the bike achieves the proper setting and they set the air fuel mix at 1 turn out and still the same NGK 82-83 GL plug set at 22th's. Sorry got a little side tracked  !!  Bob
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| Posted: Thu Apr 8th, 2010 11:41 am | 1023rd Post |
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What happens if you open the plug gap out to 32? I haven't installed (or rather transferred) the Dyna into my '78 yet so experimenting is out for a little while.
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| Posted: Fri Apr 9th, 2010 07:09 am | 1024th Post |
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Hi Zwing, to be honest  ,.....I'll have to try it and see what happens. I've just always used their recommended setting. I would think opening the gap settings on the plug would give it a better firing. Sorry I'm not technical like some who can give a better answer, I'm one who just likes to try and goes with it ,....Backyard type   . BobLast edited on Fri Apr 9th, 2010 07:10 am by badorderbob |
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| Posted: Fri Apr 9th, 2010 11:28 am | 1025th Post |
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CaptainMidnight85 wrote: Having a "Tornado" throw fuel onto the sides of a plenum is of no value what-so-ever. Even if you could get one that small into Solex throat, and the effect somehow passes into and through the plenum (which it wouldn't), the runner length and cross section would dissipate its effects instantly. I know that was an older post but I wanted to say, That is funny except for the water and magnets part. I don't buy the gizzmos gimmicks for high bucks, But I have built some things myself. 92 Minivan I added magnets to the rubber fuel line to the injection fuel rack, I got about 1.5-2mpg more milage. Been years ago but I think I went from 25-27mpg at the time. I was on a long 800 or 1000 mile trip, one direction no magnets, coming home had magnets. That van had never gotten more than 25mpg all the time I had owned it, added the magnets and always got near or just over 27mpg depending on the driving. Done it with other vehicles after and gained a little mileage also, now I just add magnets to my rubber fuel line when I buy a vehicle and don't check before doing it. Points on magnets on fuel lines, it has to be rubber lines (non-magentic) as steel lines will short the flux field around the fuel not through the fuel, don't use strong magnets that will pinch shut the fuel hose (I put a small wood spacer thick as the hose) and each side to hold magnets apart, put magnets pulling together not pushing apart, I just hold them in place then wrap tight with electrical tape or duct tape. $2 for 2 ceramic bar magnets and 2-5 minutes time, what's there to lose? Costs less than 1 gallon of gas to try it! Just don't put them flopping around where they could damage the line and don't put them anywhere that a small magnetic field could interfere with anything. Like I would not put them right next to a brain box! Water injection in engine can cause corrosion, bad oil, and rusted exhaust etc.. from condensation, but it can work to keep the engine cleaner (less carbon deposites), reduce temperatures, and increase mileage a bit. I made my own system for a pickup truck. Exhaust heated water for steam which was drawn into air supply at the carb. Cool intake air cooled the water to a mist condensation. In the cylinders then when the gas fires off the heat turns the water mist back into steam! Steam is 7 times the volume of water as I recall. The old Ford truck I did this with was a beater with a few problems. I actually saw my mileage go up slightly, the truck engine ran cooler (no thermostat in it), the truck ran better than it had been running before. The way my system was set up, I start with cold water from sitting over night, as I drove the exhaust manifolds heated the water to boiling for the steam. I had a windshield washer water tank I kept full for reserve water and used the pump to put water into my chambers to boil as needed. I could actually tell when the water would heat up and I was getting steam, and when I boiled dry and ran out of steam I could tell the difference also so then I just held a button for a few minutes and let more water pump into the heat tank. That truck I pulled a trailer and hauled cars, as I said it had problems, it would over heat alittle pulling a trailer and car around here if I went more than about 50-60miles, one of the reasons I ran without thermostat in it. I did not over heat near as often when running steam. As far as power I never really could tell that much difference one way or the other, it pulled what I wanted to pull just fine. Never had any trouble related to the steam. The truck is down right now because I had starter problems, found someone stripped the starter bolts before I got the truck and jerry rigged it with carriage bolts  Have to drop the tranny or pull the engine to replace the flex plate that has a couple teethe chewed off now and have to fix a cracked bolt hole in the aluminum bell housing also as well as helicoil for the correct bolts and threads. Just not got around to doing that yet. Anyway my point is, I would not buy the gimmick gizmos for the high prices myself but some things are worth experimenting with if you like to do such things and some things can work home built better than store bought. I dought the water injector things I have seen would be worth having, but my system worked for me pretty well. I would not use it on an engine I really cared about yet though. The magnets can't hurt anything on a fuel line so I just put them on everything now. I use NFEB magnets now because I have them handy, higher priced but far stronger fields for the size. I just bought an 82 Goldwing last night and after I see how it runs and the gas mileage later I will put magnets on it and watch to see if it does better also. Might be a cheap trick some of you may want to try. The ceramic bar magnets I used to buy at Lowes for $2 for 2. I always get the ones all north and all south on one side, they have them with both north and south on the same sides 1/2 and 1/2 but I never use those for anything. Maybe the other big box stores have the same thing I just happened to get them at Lowes 5 packs at a time when there.
____________________ Chromo I ride for FOOD 95 SE 1500, riding now, Purple (the fastest color) 88 1500 recovering from deer hit, Phantom Gray (Most expensive color ) 82 1100 riding sometimes, Red Also 80 1100 naked and 86 1200 Interstate, not running yet. |
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| Posted: Fri Apr 9th, 2010 12:03 pm | 1026th Post |
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Chromo wrote: Anyway my point is,... some things are worth experimenting with if you like to do such things... And that, my new friend, is why this thread survives in its Glory... I'm just glad to see that it gets read and attracts the new fella. 
____________________ "They're gonna make it look like suicide." Hunter S. Thompson, one day before his death. |
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| Posted: Fri Apr 9th, 2010 12:35 pm | 1027th Post |
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CaptainMidnight85 wrote: Chromo wrote:Anyway my point is,... some things are worth experimenting with if you like to do such things... I have a tendency to read allot, especially when I join a new site. That's how I learned to build wind genies. do electro plating and other things  This thread drew my attention fast because I am thinking of buying a 78 Goldwing also that has been sitting for awhile and I was told the tank needs flushed and the coating sealer stuff flushed around in it. In that case I pretty much expect carb troubles also! I like to keep older things original if they are in good shape and not too bad to fix up, but I can't do bike carbs (yet anyway) so if I buy that 78 I think if the carbs need work I'll save them to do later and if the bikes generally fixable to rideable condition otherwise I'll go with a single carb system on it. Then one day when I can do them myself maybe rebuild the OEM carbs and put them back on to have an original bike. I just bought my first Goldie last night, an 82 and this 78 I may buy if still there was one I found while looking for a rideable bike earlier but mostly passed because I figured expensive carb issues. I had never really thought about a single barrel carb conversion.
____________________ Chromo I ride for FOOD 95 SE 1500, riding now, Purple (the fastest color) 88 1500 recovering from deer hit, Phantom Gray (Most expensive color ) 82 1100 riding sometimes, Red Also 80 1100 naked and 86 1200 Interstate, not running yet. |
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| Posted: Fri Apr 9th, 2010 01:12 pm | 1028th Post |
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That '78, if in running condition, at $500 or less would be a probable good deal worth checking into. If nothing else, and assuming any work needed was performed by you, it may be a profitable project. A single carb set-up could be fashioned cheaper than the cost of the best carb kit available for the stockers. You have options with that, certainly. When I picked-up my '78, it too needed the carburetors rebuilt and I opted for the conversion. While I'm no fan of re-engineering a factory design for a couple of strong reasons, I've found the conversion beneficial to me for the intended purpose I've planned the bike for. I'm still on-going with it as a project as I have other bikes I can ride in the mean time. This may be the case for you if you decide it is a worthwhile venture. My old 'Wing is the easiest bike to work on of all my bikes. I get Tons-O-Fun outta doing it, and riding it again 'til the end will be my benefit one day... singing it not like Sinatra, but like Elvis did: "And more, much more than this, I did it my way"
____________________ "They're gonna make it look like suicide." Hunter S. Thompson, one day before his death. |
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| Posted: Fri Apr 9th, 2010 04:01 pm | 1029th Post |
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Getting ready to make the second "Frankencycle" intake for the '77 this time. I found a few vaccumn leaks,so have to make new spacer for the Weber on #1,so #2 will use a Solex. The manuel I got from WFC has helped alot,it's amazing how one little vaccumn leak can screw things,sometimes hard to find. Chromo,If you get that '78 and need to clean out the tank,see if a local paint store will let use their paint shaker machine,you can put a hand full or so of "BB's" in it,tape off the fuel sending hole,then shake the hell out of it,grandkids work too. Then flush it out with water and blow it out,did that to mine,it worked.
____________________ It's what you do that counts..not who you are! It's not what you ride....It's that you ride! |
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| Posted: Fri Apr 9th, 2010 06:21 pm | 1030th Post |
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badorderbob wrote: Hi Zwing, to be honestThat is a good answer. Let us know if it runs better, worse or the same. If better or the same the rest of us can join you. If worse we all should then have a good idea of where not to go. I'ld be willing to bet you could take the plug gap atleast out to .028 and have it run. I want to get (when I can afford them) a set of the Dyna coils to go with the Dyna ignition modules. Those you can run the gap out to .035. I was actually surprised when I installed new points to read that the gap was so small, because I woulda set the gap at .035 like I have all my cars and my jeeps with points in them. It was a standard setting.
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| Posted: Fri Apr 9th, 2010 06:37 pm | 1031st Post |
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Chromo wrote: Not into the magnet thing my self - although the rubber fuel line part is intriqueing to say the least. Every body else does it to the steel fuel lines. As for the water injection thing I've done that. Mine was home built with a recovery tank for radiators, a flexible line from that to a vacuum fitting at the base of the carb and the needle outa my wife's expired bee-sting kit. Don't remember the size of the needle. They unscrew from the gizmo that injects the medicine under pressure and you need a line the right size for the needle to be a press fit with the point away from the water tank at the cab end and the point sticking out of the line just enough to put it approximately center or not quite of the air/fuel mixture stream. This was in both of my 1960 Ford pickups with 223 ci inline six cylinders. The very very fine stream of water would vaporize and act as a steam cleaning agent, plust the steam seemed to add something to the combustion mix. Maybe the little extra oxygen and hydrogen would give it an octane boost or something. Never had any carbon build up on the plugs, and the exhaust didn't exhibit any either.  
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| Posted: Fri Apr 9th, 2010 06:46 pm | 1032nd Post |
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Chromo; Welcome to the Forum. Drag up a log, or sit on the ground, let your hair down, and your feed dangle. There is a big paper bag full of coffee on the fire there in the corner and cups on that big flat stone just to the east of it. Dip some out and enjoy! And welcom to the 
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| Posted: Fri Apr 9th, 2010 09:45 pm | 1033rd Post |
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Hey Boys, Well yesterday we got a snow storm (6in) so I decided to install the new Dyna coils and new spark plugs to go with the Dyna ignition and Ld's single conversion. I got the new coils and wires installed also eliminated the ballast resistor. I set the plugs at a tight 30 thousands. Set the air fuel mix screw about 1 and 1/4 turns out. Today: The snow was melted off the road so I took her for a spin. Temperature is about 40. Went up the highway about 4 miles taking it easy maybe 60-70 mph. Running good at that speed ,very comfortable. Turned around to come home and let her go. She ran up to red line in first,second and third. Didn't push to red line in fourth or fifth. Got up to 95 mph and that was enough for me. She might have done the "Ton" I don't know. The idle is set at about 1500 and that seems ok. Not much of a clunk when you put it in gear. Perhaps get away from some of the bog issues when taking off with the higher idle. When things cool down I will pull the plugs and see what they look like. All in all I am pretty satisfied with the old girl now. I am thinking warmer temps will maybe help too. I am going to install a new fuel pump also. If for no other reason ,the original one is 32 years old. Perhaps I could go to 35 thousands on the plugs . We will see what you guys come up with on your machines. I mostly just lurk but I sure enjoy this thread. I check in usually a couple times every day. Thanks for everybody's input. Rob Young
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| Posted: Fri Apr 9th, 2010 09:55 pm | 1034th Post |
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you might try dropping the idle to 1150 give or take and see how she does.
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| Posted: Fri Apr 9th, 2010 11:54 pm | 1035th Post |
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My CI idles about 1100, if I reset the air/flow mix I can drop rpm to around OEM setting of 950 but she won't run well. I can hardly wait to put on my Holly/Weber on,... it's just killing me Later Bob
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| Posted: Sat Apr 10th, 2010 04:09 pm | 1036th Post |
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I have mine set at just over 1100, I am thinking on dropping it by 1/8 of a turn on the speed screw. I think it is trying to run on the intermediate circuits along with the idle circuits.
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| Posted: Sat Apr 10th, 2010 05:22 pm | 1037th Post |
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Single carbed GLs won't like a low idle no matter what anyone does... Too much distance from the carb base to the intake valve... Stockers and head-mounted duals don't have this problem because of it.
____________________ "They're gonna make it look like suicide." Hunter S. Thompson, one day before his death. |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 10th, 2010 05:47 pm | 1038th Post |
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Didn't seem to matter if it was my single carb or the quad kehins on there. My bike likes to idle at 1k or right around there. Personally I don't care for a low idle either. Most of my stuff gets set to right around a grand on the tach. The Willys, my Dakota, the wife's Caliber, my poor old now defunct Olds Dynamic 88 with the 425 in it.
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| Posted: Sat Apr 10th, 2010 06:04 pm | 1039th Post |
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Just pointing-out the fact for those seeking the lowest idle possible. To them, it may matter. Many wanting to convert to a single carburetor may want a lower idle speed that resembles a multi-carb GL. I'm glad you like yours at around 1000, 1100, wherever. I'm just trying to help the new guy...
____________________ "They're gonna make it look like suicide." Hunter S. Thompson, one day before his death. |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 10th, 2010 06:18 pm | 1040th Post |
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Capt., it is just that that seems to be the sweet spot to me as far as hearing the engine run. Smoothest idle and all. Does that make sense?
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