| Single Carburetor - which one? |
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| Posted: Tue Feb 7th, 2012 04:13 pm | 481st Post |
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I'm much more function over form. Many, maybe most, that have seen the manifold on my '78 without the insulating covers ask me why I would hide those nice looking polished tubes by covering them up like that. I use to go into it all, but settled for just saying, "...it's a race-thing." and leaving it at that. Being that I'm known for riding hard (pulling the front wheel up, breaking traction, etc.) they get it enough. Tells me most are form over function and just see what they want to see. Some do get it up front when they see them covered. They know why, but not many of 'em. If you could get a reservoir attached to the bottom of the manifold so that the oil comes into direct contact with the plenum floor, then I think heat will be absorbed and evenly distributed more effectively. Much more heat would be available to soak outward and into the runners. Insulating the runners would then retain the heat and keep variations from happening due to any ambient airflow across the runners. My set-up is more susceptible to these ambient temperature airflow variations concerning the runners than yours would be I think. Yours is fully cast with shorter runs, whereas mine is cast then welded to layered 6061 tubing stock with longer runs. It's good to see that you've at least tried insulating your manifold. I knew you were trying to heat it. I never knew where you got with all of it. I have one of those CI manifolds, but I've never tried to heat it. If I did, I'd weld a chamber to it like I'm doing with my manifold and go from there, probably using coolant. I like using coolant. It's temperature-controlled and provides for faster heat. You've a lot of mass there with the CI manifold to try and heat by conduction with the copper tubing. Trying to do it evenly would be hard. Oil inlet temps would always be hotter than oil outlet temps. With all the airflow passing through the intake tract, it is constantly trying to reduce the raised temperature we're trying to give it (like a crude oil-cooler of sorts). I don't know what the absorption rate would be, as that would depend on effective surface contact of the copper tubing to the aluminum manifold, but it would always offer the most heat on the inlet-side of the tubing and gradually offer less-and-less available heat as the oil travels through the tubing to the outlet-side. Probably why one side became hotter than the other. If I remember the past pics of what you were trying to do, you had the tubing extending out to the runners. I'd have to dig the pics up. I remember you trying it. It's good to see that you got somewhere with it and know something of trying to do something about it. All of this stuff is important, as I see it, to bring about the best in conversion attempts with whatever we're using. Last edited on Tue Feb 7th, 2012 04:31 pm by CaptainMidnight85 ____________________ "They're gonna make it look like suicide." Hunter S. Thompson, one day before his death. |
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| Posted: Tue Feb 7th, 2012 09:01 pm | 482nd Post |
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This is the plumbing where you can see the uneven occured. I used a 1200 LTD water pump cover with the extra piping coming out for supply and a shut off in the upper left tubing on the bike return. It would always get very hot on the right side, but by the time it exited, minimal heat.  1200 cover.  plumbing then heated like above.  where I tied into the x-over pipe (exit). So I can see wrapping the runners, and try a different approach for under the plenum.  Last edited on Tue Feb 7th, 2012 09:03 pm by badorderbob |
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| Posted: Wed Feb 8th, 2012 02:17 am | 483rd Post |
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Oh, ok, you are using coolant. I thought it was oil being used. Something else to consider: the greater the available coolant volume, and the greater its ability to flow in and out, the sooner heat will transfer and the more consistent it will remain. Example 1/4" tubing to 1/2" tubing providing more heat because of greater surface area and faster heat because of increased flow. Increasing the volume and flow will give more consistent heat. Thinking aloud here Bob > maybe using 3/4" tubing to make a 3-legged coolant manifold (a narrow rectangle with a additional piece lengthwise in the center, sized for the floor of the plenum on the outside bottom as you're doing now) with a fiberglass cover that allows for about 1/4" between both manifold above and fiberglass below, with connection nipples exiting the fiberglass from the coolant manifolds ends. Pack the assembly with white sand level to the top edge (vibrate it down so that it stays level) and attach it to the bottom of the manifold having the sand in contact with the aluminum. Maybe line the inside of the fiberglass cover with foil-backed 1/4" foam layered with glued-in aluminum foil to reflect the heat back into itself and help the fiberglass survive. Maybe even reinforce the fiberglass with a simple chicken-wire screened cage and have a small, rectangular and chambered (meaning a thin metal plate of flashing between bladder and sand) water-filled bladder to passively push the sand to the aluminum as the water in the bladder heats and expands. Key to this is securing the cover so it does not move. No welding, just some copper pipe brazing and some fiberglass work. Sand doesn't retain heat very well, but it sure does get hot pretty easy. Just might work...
____________________ "They're gonna make it look like suicide." Hunter S. Thompson, one day before his death. |
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| Posted: Wed Feb 8th, 2012 03:09 am | 484th Post |
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Yea got me thinking now. The rubber is 1/4,....so using the 3'/4 inch runs,...got ya!! Next project !! Give me a week +- and I'll get back with a drawing. It would give me more volume,... !! Later (Never Ending)
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| Posted: Wed Feb 8th, 2012 12:10 pm | 485th Post |
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Looking around, I found a thread over at the GL1200 site where you have a black manifold converted to run a Weber 2-barrel. I like that idea.
____________________ "They're gonna make it look like suicide." Hunter S. Thompson, one day before his death. |
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| Posted: Wed Feb 8th, 2012 02:09 pm | 486th Post |
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Yes, I'm using a CI manifold, cut out to fit a carb adaptor, with a 32/36 Weber/Holley. This is the W/H carb I had trouble with until I found the acc. pump spring was installed sideways, pumping uncontrolled amounts of gas into the plenum,......Great ignition on a start,........BOOM !!! I love how it runs now since I fixed it but hang on when you open it up ,..a slight hesitation on the secondaries and then away ya go !!! Later
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| Posted: Sun Mar 4th, 2012 11:32 pm | 487th Post |
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Well,The Frankencycle sat all winter in the cold little shed haven't had the money to work on it much. The chrome is rusting and the poor thing really needs a paint job,but I put in the key,the electric fuel pump hummed and pushed the button....VROOMM. The '80 fired right up,four months and the 'Wing came to life...try that with a H-D. Took it for a ride,the clutch sticks a bit but warmed right up,no problems..Now it's time to teach the grandson the joys of motorcycles. Charlie G
____________________ It's what you do that counts..not who you are! It's not what you ride....It's that you ride! |
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| Posted: Wed Mar 7th, 2012 05:18 pm | 488th Post |
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OK all you guys running the 32/36 Weber I need yor help. I can't get it to idle. It runs amazing full throttle from 0 to 130 mph then I lose my nerve and back off, but it will not idle. Also when just cruising around 70 mph in 5th if I try to increases speed in 5th it boggs down and will not go over 80 mph. Drop down to 4th, kick in the secondary and it flys! If the idle problem were fixed I'm sure the other is just a jetting issue which I can work through. But the idle issue is killing me. I've tried every idle jet know to man from 040 to 090. With either jet it's the same. Set the carb up to factory specs for best idle and I can turn the idle screw out 1/4 turn or 10 turns and get no change. It will idle a few seconds and die. I've got a couple thoughts. Maybe an electric fuel pump would help. The stock mech pump may not deliver enough fuel at idle. Or I've got a bad carb. I see too many people that are running this carb on GL1000's for it not to work. Any thoughts?
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| Posted: Wed Mar 7th, 2012 05:59 pm | 489th Post |
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katmol,I use a Weber 32/36 from a '79 Chev LUV,I had to play with the adjustments untill I got it to idle,but I found leaks in the intake under the carb,fixed that and after warm up my 1100 runs good. Keep tinkering,Charlie G.
____________________ It's what you do that counts..not who you are! It's not what you ride....It's that you ride! |
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| Posted: Tue Mar 13th, 2012 01:37 am | 490th Post |
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Hey Bob, ...an example of Industry using the same heat retaining technique in the pic below that I'm using on some of my manifolds. Taken from one of the production lines where I work, the plastic film division. The pic shows a blanket, or wrap, on the dies' feeder tube of a extruder for poly-seeming. The liquid polyethylene is maintained at roughly 450 degrees from the burners, through the tube to the die by the blanket alone. It is a plastics film industry standard technique for heat retention. Just thought I'd throw that out there to 'ya... Attachment: Blanket.jpg (Downloaded 50 times) Last edited on Tue Mar 13th, 2012 01:42 am by CaptainMidnight85 ____________________ "They're gonna make it look like suicide." Hunter S. Thompson, one day before his death. |
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| Posted: Tue Mar 13th, 2012 06:48 pm | 491st Post |
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That's pretty neat, keep her wrapped for the winter and take her off for the summer. I'd think you could use Velcro to keep it on. Will have to look into it!!Bob Duh!! Looks like that is what they're using!! Last edited on Tue Mar 13th, 2012 06:49 pm by badorderbob |
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| Posted: Tue May 15th, 2012 07:34 pm | 492nd Post |
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This thread is filled with tons of great information. Just finishing a copper manifold for my 1100I. This helps a lot! Thank!
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