DIY Fork spring tool  Rate Topic  
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 Posted: Wed Apr 18th, 2007 10:20 pm 1st Post
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exavid
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I thought I'd post a few pictures of my recent fork seal job. Mainly wanted to show how you can make a simple tool out of a couple pieces of wood and some all thread. Similar to one shown by a Officer Keith Crowe of Texas. I just modified the idea to be able to build a tool with fewer parts and one that would keep the fork bolt under control and square to prevent flying away or cross threading. I've rebuilt an 1100 fork with stock springs previously and was able to put the fork bolt back in by hand but the Progressives on my 1500 are a whole 'nother job. The pressure was just too great to get the forks back together by hand and even taking the fork bolt off with that much pressure was scary so I built a tool to handle the job. First a picture of my 1100 and 1500 on the jacks in my shop. BTW the 1500 is sitting solidly and safely on a Harbor Freight bike jack. The 1100 is on one much like the Sears unit.

Attachment: Bikesinshop.jpg (Downloaded 1302 times)

Last edited on Wed Apr 18th, 2007 11:15 pm by exavid



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 Posted: Wed Apr 18th, 2007 10:21 pm 2nd Post
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exavid
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Here's the fork tool ready to go.

Attachment: Forktool1.jpg (Downloaded 1282 times)



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 Posted: Wed Apr 18th, 2007 10:23 pm 3rd Post
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exavid
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This picture is the tool set up on the fork tube ready to remove the fork bolt.

Attachment: Forktool2.jpg (Downloaded 1237 times)

Last edited on Wed Apr 18th, 2007 10:24 pm by exavid



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 Posted: Wed Apr 18th, 2007 10:24 pm 4th Post
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exavid
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This picture shows the fork bolt free of the tube and in control under the pressure from the Progressive spring.

Attachment: Forktool3.jpg (Downloaded 1248 times)



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 Posted: Wed Apr 18th, 2007 10:27 pm 5th Post
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exavid
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This last picture shows the spring tension completely released without any danger of flying parts. The installation is just the reverse of the removal and worked quickly and easily. Interestingly enough I found one spring with the close wound end down and the other fork had the close wound up. The job was done by a Honda shop too before I bought the bike I even have the invoice for the work. They are the right way 'round now.

I bored a hole partway through the block that holds the deep well socket so that it could move in an out about half it's length which makes it easier to set up. There's also a hole in the block to pass the 1/2" drive extension through. I put a washer inside the block so that the head of the socket rides on metal instead of wood to prolong the life of the tool.

When putting the bolt back into the fork it's necessary to turn down the two nuts on the all thread evenly to keep things square. As the bolt gets close to being ready to engage it's threads I keep a thumb or finger on the space between the top of the tube and the flange on the bolt. When I turn the all thread nuts and don't feel that gap closing I know it's time to crank on the ratchet handle and screw the bolt into the tube after one last look to make sure it looks straight. If it didn't I'd adjust the two top nuts to square it up before turning the ratchet. Anyway it worked fine and made the job pretty simple and worry free. If you've never taken a fork with Progressive springs apart, be advised the bolt is under a lot of pressure.

I forgot to mention if you make up a jig like this you really have to have a drill press available. That's the only way you can keep the holes parallel and centered. That's critical to keep the bolt from cross threading.

 

Attachment: Forktool4.jpg (Downloaded 1247 times)

Last edited on Thu Apr 19th, 2007 06:01 pm by exavid



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 Posted: Wed Apr 18th, 2007 10:27 pm 6th Post
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Rudy
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Nice Paul. Love the shop.

I also have a nice supply of that laminated oak stair rail leftovers. Great stuff that.

Almost works like delrin.

Your 1500 looks funny as a mono-shock front end.



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 Posted: Wed Apr 18th, 2007 10:34 pm 7th Post
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exavid
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Yeah she's got one fang pulled, kinda like Bucky the Cat in the comics.:cheeky1:



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 Posted: Wed Apr 18th, 2007 10:56 pm 8th Post
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zimmerleemark
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great set up and thank you for posting it here. these types of posts come in REAL HANDY for ammature dummies like me. i just wish we could get a place to store all of these types of posts in one place. like a how too, section. it's still the greatest site.

 love your shop also. now i'm jealous:cheeky1: sure makes nice for working though.

great post, thank you:clapper::clapper::clapper:

     mark:waving:



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looking for a nice 1500, that i can afford
 Posted: Wed Apr 18th, 2007 11:18 pm 9th Post
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beachbuddy0253
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awsome pictures exavid.

 Posted: Wed Apr 18th, 2007 11:24 pm 10th Post
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DW in Id.
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Nice "step by step" Paul.  I'll use that method for sure whenever I get around to putting progressives in the frnt. of mine.

Thanks...   



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 Posted: Wed Apr 18th, 2007 11:48 pm 11th Post
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Rudy
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Hey isn't that one of those dangerous devil be damned HF sockets you're using there that explode if you drop them?

BTW.. mine has allen bolt heads not sockets.



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 Posted: Thu Apr 19th, 2007 02:08 am 12th Post
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exavid
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Yep, I buy sockets for my air impact wrench there. Actually not bad metal, I ground about half the length of one to get into a restricted place on an engine awhile back, cut nearly 1/8" off its outside diameter. With a couple hundred foot pounds of torque and the whamming of an impact wrench it came through without a crack.



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 Posted: Thu Apr 19th, 2007 02:44 am 13th Post
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Can't see it, but I am assuming you place the other end in your vice? Where on the fork, do you tighten it down?



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 Posted: Thu Apr 19th, 2007 04:03 am 14th Post
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exavid
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If you look at the third picture you can see the vise. I pad the vise with either soft pine or rags and clamp onto the caliper bracket. You don't need to clamp it very tightly. Once I have the fork bolt off I tip the tube downward and let it drain into a bucket on the floor. When you pull the spring out expect a lot of oil to come out with it.



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 Posted: Thu Apr 19th, 2007 05:00 am 15th Post
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great idea, nice write up. you know I don't think I've seen a better way to do that.:clapper:



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 Posted: Thu Apr 19th, 2007 03:02 pm 16th Post
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Nice write-up and great pics Paul.  Just did my forks last week and contemplated the same basic set-up, but was too lazy to remove the tubes from the bike.  Had to eat an extra portion of Wheaties to get the caps on with stock springs.   Good job.....    :clapper:      :clapper:       :clapper:                  :gunhead:



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 Posted: Thu Apr 19th, 2007 03:25 pm 17th Post
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exavid
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That's what I did with the 1100 which has OEM springs. These Progressive springs had no problem withstanding my not so inconsiderable weight.:cheeky1::cheeky1:



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 Posted: Thu Apr 19th, 2007 05:14 pm 18th Post
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Great Job oh exalted one.  The step by step pictures are great.  For an old fart who likes to eat fake tuna, your alright in my book.:D:clapper::clapper::clapper::clapper::clapper::clapper:

Gene:waving:



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 Posted: Thu Apr 19th, 2007 10:24 pm 19th Post
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Nice contraption Paul. I think you said that the pics were taken on the way out, and it looks like the tight winds are at the top there. Did you put them both at the top??



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 Posted: Fri Apr 20th, 2007 12:29 am 20th Post
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exavid
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Nope, I followed Progressive's recommendation. They said that it doesn't make any difference but that some forks operate more quietly if the close wound coils are at the bottom. I just turned one spring over, didn't like the look of one up and one down but I doubt it really makes much of a difference. The compression rate is the same either way.



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If you can't ride, fly or sail it, why bother?
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