FITTING GL1500 ROTOR COVERS TO A GL1200 - Page 3 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #21 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-23-2015, 10:58 AM
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Malc do you have the outside mesurement for the brackets . I want to convert my front rotor cover 1200 to 1500
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post #22 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-23-2015, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by tntevelezedwin View Post
Malc do you have the outside mesurement for the brackets . I want to convert my front rotor cover 1200 to 1500

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post #23 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-19-2015, 05:39 PM
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I've gotta say, I'm really lovin' the images of the GL1500 rotor covers on the 16" wheel! Too cool.

I've got some big ideas of my OWN vis--vis the GL1500 rotor covers. I want to make a "Faux-Leading-Shoe" hub from the center "HUB" from the PC800 Pacifica/Pacific-Coast, which of course is identical to the GL wheel other than being a five-spoke 17" rim instead of 18" with ... what, nine "spokes" in it?

I should think some of the GL1500 set could get behind the idea of a wire-spoke wheel to fit on their 'Wing ANYHOW, even if it's just a CB750 or GL1000 wire hub with rotors from early CB cut down to the 286mm of the GL1500, with of course a bearing conversion to adapt to the 20mm axle etc etc. That could even look pretty good with the rotor covers.

Especially if it's a 16" front rim - and indeed, I've been building some 16" rims here, the one in my Avatar is 3.00x16" Borrani with the GT750J 200mm 4LS drum hub, while I'm also doing a 3.50x16" "SUPER-AKRONT" (simply gorgeous classic rims, I've also got a 3.50x18" for a rear wheel on another set for a DOHC 750) - this 16"-er is for a "Freddie Spencer Replica" style 16/18 pair using Akront 4.25x18" rear - I really like the idea of wrapping that whole wheel up tight with the lit-up rotor covers and you don't even know WHAT'S inside of it - of course, folks on more of a budget than me could use ready-made HARLEY wheels (actually hella cheap compared to a custom Japanese wheel with alloy rim) any which way you slice it, pretty much ANY 16" wheel could work with this idea, 'cause what does it matter what's underneath?

Well - for my "Faux-Leading-Shoe" idea, I've got another rim set aside, a 3.00x18" - incidentally, the same size as the original GL1500 front rim. it's a shouldered drop-center alloy rim, a Borrani clone - I thought it was gonna be a NON drop-center type, otherwise I would've ordered the actual Borrani "Rinforzatto" rim itself, from Motocicli Veloci Milano -

(((They've got such beautiful stuff, including these new production Borrani rims in 2.50x18", 3.00x18" - 3.00x16" and I think even 2.50x16" too - Would be nice to see a 3.00x17" or even 2.50x17", for use with GL1000 rear wheels, though of course Morad makes all sorts of 17" sizes. And I've found some cheap 40-hole Super-Moto rims in 4.25x17" & 5.00x17" which should make some pretty good GL1000 rear wheels......)))

So yeah, with the 18" diameter, it's possible to look straight on, and see all the way to the center where the tiny lil' hub would lay. Which is why I wanna cut out the much bigger hub and lace THAT up. It should give the appearance of a proper drum hub. Though I'm unsure of whether it would require a straight-pull "Nail" spoke, or bent-head spokes through the sides, whether the bent-head spokes would interfere with the caliper between rotor and wheel hub - Just how much clearance is IN there? I should think that if there's any extra clearance in there, if it's at all possible, it would be better to cut down the center-hub "lip" such that the rotors sit closer to the center closer to one-another etc. The caliper hangers would have to be spaced further inward as well. That way, to make the entire "Drum" structure narrower overall.

It should still be possible to whip up some very FLAT rotor shrouds, much like the original GL1000 and GL1100 etc rotor shrouds, such that the lower fork legs needn't be buried into the covers, but instead stand proud of them in traditional fashion. Maybe some big ol' air scoops fore & aft of the leg, with the aft scoop covering the caliper and TRAC mechanism?

IMHO the effect might be very convincing.

I guess it would help more than anything, to stick the GL1500 fork onto my CB900F ANYHOW, whether or not it gets shrouded rotors or the bigger hub or whatever.

Actually, the bigger hub itself looks like it doesn't add a great deal of weight to the front wheel, as compared to a small GL1000 dual-disc hub AND the rotor carriers/centers which are missing on these types of discs. Yet the larger diameter, or rather the closer diameters between inner ring (spoke flanges) and outer ring (the rim itself, especially when it's a "deep drop center" type of rim!) SHOULD, theoretically, make for a much stronger and stiffer wheel. Albeit, that mass isn't just centered around the axle as with the GL1000 front hub, instead it's outboard halfway to the rim, hence it's effect on suspension vis--vis "unsprung mass" being equal (though likely greater, in actual fact) that mass's effect on ROLLING INERTIA is going to be much much greater. However, by that same token, the missing rotor centers were also outboard of the hub, so again they kinda cancel out some of the hub's weight.

But above all else, it's a 41mm fork where mine is only 39mm, it's got the TRAC anti-dive that my bike lacks. It's got the 20mm axle whereas mine only has a 15mm axle - just like CB350 twins heck even a lot of contemporary 125cc and 250cc bikes had a 15mm axle. And there's the integral fork-brace too, meaning I can take off my Aluminum Tarozzi clamp-on brace with it's four separate alloy parts and TEN allen-head bolts. And stick it onto the other CB900F fork which is on the "KZ440LOL" with the REAL 4LS drum hub. Every one of these factors makes it the better front end.

And the famous AMA Superbike "CB750F" that Freddie Spencer raced at Daytona in '82 had a very VERY similar looking fork, with all the same specs of 41mm tubes TRAC anti-dive with twin-pot calipers, 20mm axle, integral fork-brace etc etc. IMHO the GL1500 unit is a fantastic stand-in for that original works racer's front end.

Gotta wonder whether the GL1500 fork itself was developed directly FROM that works racer fork. Whether it was the prototype GL1500 design, or whether the Gold-Wing prototype BORROWED a works racing fork - perhaps it was the best most beefy fork they had on hand at the time.

So YEAH, I'm thinking I'd like to use some of those aftermarket rotors for starters, and then figure out some DIY stuff maybe make a set of shrouds from fibreglass? Whenever I'm around the kitchen-wares dept of stores, I'm always measuring up the T-Fal frying pans etc. Which is to say, there might be some pretty cool "DIY" shrouds in Aluminum, which wouldn't be so flimsy as all that fibreglass stuff....

Hey - if ANYBODY'S got some of this stuff kicking around - the frying pans even ha-ha - I'd pay fair value on all components. Obviously I wouldn't need a lot of the plastics and chrome bits etc, just the core fork unit and brakes, axle - maybe not even the GL1500 wheel itself if I can use PC800 instead. Heck even the yokes themselves could come from VF1000F or VF750C Super-Magna, GL1200 what-have-you, anything 41mm with some decent width between the tubes. The VF1000R had some awesome adjustable clip-on bars straight out of the CB1100R box o' tricks.

Just thought I'd put it out there. Maybe there are others equally interested in such projects? I predict a lot of interest once the thing's been DONE of course. From Goldwing circles and DOHC-four, CBX, SOHC - heck maybe even the CBR and VFR set would be into it???

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