Changing GL1000 timing belts tutorial - Page 7 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #61 of 181 (permalink) Old 04-14-2007, 10:27 PM
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I will be changing my belts on my 1100 very soon as well. I have read through the manual, but I believe Octane's instructions and high quality pics are going to be more help for me. All the other advise is also very helpful and greatly appreciated.

Danny
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post #62 of 181 (permalink) Old 09-24-2007, 02:00 AM
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Love that avatar you have Quakeholio. Says a bit about your personality.

You won\'t find a motorbike parked at a psyhco-analist\'s office.
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post #63 of 181 (permalink) Old 09-26-2007, 06:42 PM
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might i ask whear u got the spin on oil filter adapter
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post #64 of 181 (permalink) Old 09-27-2007, 12:04 AM
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Just don't forget the most critical part of the job. That's hand turning the engine, sparkplugs removed,with a wrench on the crankshaft bolt through TWO FULL TURNS to feel for any chance of interference between the pistons and valves. Failure to do this can result in a severely damaged engine. If you do perform this check you won't hurt your engine even if you make a mistake on the valve timing.

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post #65 of 181 (permalink) Old 11-17-2007, 02:13 AM
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Octane...Thanks to your photos and excellent instructions I feel prepared to attempt the timing belt replacement on my "new" 84 GL1200 Aspencade. There are just a couple of points I would like to clarify before I dig in. Please forgive the stupid questions! I'm understanding that when turning the engine 360 degrees in order to set the roller bearing tensioner for the right side the left side tensioner bolts are already tightened. If the right side tensioner is not tight before this rotation wont the marks slip on the right side? Is this avoided by the belt teeth meshing with the pulley teeth? Also..Where exactly is this crank bolt located? The close up in photo 3 is excellent but I cant tell exactly where the thing is without pulling back a bit to see the "bigger picture" Assuming I'm good so far in my reasoning what I don't fully understand is the next instruction to make sure the T-1 mark is still in the correct position. Doesn't turning the engine 360 degrees automatically return the T-1 mark back to the correct position even though the cam pulley arrows now both point to the center instead of the marks on the block? If so, I'm beginning to "get it" The next instruction states "Check/re-adjust valve clearance and check/re-adjust ignition timing" Isn't this already done if all the marks line up? If not, how is this done? Is there any way this thing could actually be 180 degrees out and the marks all still line up? One more dumb question and then I think I'm ready to study it some more <grin> When turning the engine by hand two full turns should the rear wheel be off the ground? Should the bike be on the center stand? Should the transmission be in neutral? Thanks so much for this great site!

2003 Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad 1500FI
1978 Yamaha XS750SE "Special"
1984 Honda GL1200 Goldwing Aspencade
1979 Yamaha XS750SF "Special"
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post #66 of 181 (permalink) Old 11-17-2007, 06:22 AM
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you can turn either one of the cranks with the marks on them, as long as the belts are on. you will need to align all three marks, the cranks and then find the timing mark on top of the engine. its under a cap thats appx. 1 inch diameter on the left side of the engine, on top, about 4-6 inches from the back towards the front and about 3-4 inches towards the center on the engine from there. it has a big slot in it for a screw driver. you will be able to align that mark very easily. T1 should be the mark i believe. once all those are in line then turn the engine with a ratchet on your cranks and check for bad noises, there shouldn'e be any. put the plugs back in and turn again2-3 three times. good luck
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post #67 of 181 (permalink) Old 11-17-2007, 07:25 AM
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shmolous wrote:
Quote:
Octane...Thanks to your photos and excellent instructions I feel prepared to attempt the timing belt replacement on my "new" 84 GL1200 Aspencade. There are just a couple of points I would like to clarify before I dig in. Please forgive the stupid questions! I'm understanding that when turning the engine 360 degrees in order to set the roller bearing tensioner for the right side the left side tensioner bolts are already tightened. If the right side tensioner is not tight before this rotation wont the marks slip on the right side? Is this avoided by the belt teeth meshing with the pulley teeth? Also..Where exactly is this crank bolt located? The close up in photo 3 is excellent but I cant tell exactly where the thing is without pulling back a bit to see the "bigger picture" Assuming I'm good so far in my reasoning what I don't fully understand is the next instruction to make sure the T-1 mark is still in the correct position. Doesn't turning the engine 360 degrees automatically return the T-1 mark back to the correct position even though the cam pulley arrows now both point to the center instead of the marks on the block? If so, I'm beginning to "get it" The next instruction states "Check/re-adjust valve clearance and check/re-adjust ignition timing" Isn't this already done if all the marks line up? If not, how is this done? Is there any way this thing could actually be 180 degrees out and the marks all still line up? One more dumb question and then I think I'm ready to study it some more <grin> When turning the engine by hand two full turns should the rear wheel be off the ground? Should the bike be on the center stand? Should the transmission be in neutral? Thanks so much for this great site!
Not stupid questions at all. You should make the right tensioner a bit tight prior to doing the 360 degree rotation of the crank. It is not important at this time that the T1 mark is exact. This move is only to off load the valve spring tension on the cam so that you can better adjust the right belt tension. In this position, you then reset the right tensioner. After that is done, then rotate the crank another 360 back to the T1 mark and GET IT BANG ON for the final check of all your alignment marks.

If all the marks are aligned properly with the UP words facing up, the engine is properly timed and nothing is 180 degrees out. The crank bolt is the big one at the center of the engine. Never turn the engine over using the CAM shaft bolts.

If the tranny is in neutral, it matters not where the rear wheel is for turning the engine over.

Hope this helps some.

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2001 GL1800----Blue Yonder
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post #68 of 181 (permalink) Old 11-17-2007, 02:00 PM
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Now I think I understand why the 360 rotation is necessary! With the cam pulley arrows lined up with the marks, there is valve spring tension on the right pulley only causing it to want to move and hindering the spring on the belt tensioner from auto adjusting the belt tension??? You're saying that the 360 move is so that the valve spring force applied to the right cam pulley is released, facilitating correct functioning of the tensioner spring. Does this valve spring pressure then transfer to the left side cam pulley after the rotation? If so, I believe I'm almost there. If there is no movement of either of the cam pulleys OR the crank during the belt removal and installation process shouldn't the T-1 mark be correctly aligned after the belts are reinstalled and the tensioner bolts tightened down??? If so, are the instructions to recheck and rotate the engine 2 full turns and recheck again simply to verify the procedure was done correctly? Or is it possible for something to have slipped out of alignment during the install? I assume the only 3 ways for this to happen Is to (1) turn the crank with the belts off or (2) turn the cam pulleys with the belts off OR (3) not secure the right cam pulley with the offset wrench/Wiretie trick BEFORE loosening the tensioner bolts (which is actually a variation of possibility (2)....That being the case, the next question scares me a bit. If something is mis-aligned with everything tightened down won't turning the crank cause the valves to strike the piston tops? If so, How do you backstep to rectify this crank/cam mis-alignment. (I'm assuming you hear the valves click against the piston tops!) Do you then turn the crank bolt the opposite direction to make the valve come away from the piston top? One more question! How did you guys learn all this stuff?<grin> Oh yeah, and how much pressure should I expect to apply to the crank bolt to get the engine to turn over? It seems like turning everything would require a long wrench and some pretty serious brute force. Would getting the rear wheel off the ground, placing the tranny in 5th gear and rotating the rear wheel be easier? Thanks a bunch Octane! This is good stuff!

2003 Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad 1500FI
1978 Yamaha XS750SE "Special"
1984 Honda GL1200 Goldwing Aspencade
1979 Yamaha XS750SF "Special"
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post #69 of 181 (permalink) Old 11-17-2007, 03:03 PM
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If the engine is in neutral and the spark plugs removed it's fairly easy to turn the engine over with a 3/8" ratchet handle. Probably around the order of 5-10 ft. lbs. of torque if you did it with a torque wrench.

Turning the engine over by hand does at least two things. It verifies that the valves and pistons won't hit each other, you'll feel it if they do, that's why you take the plugs out and turn carefully. If you do feel something when turning the engine, back off the crankshaft, don't force it forward. The other thingit does is gets the slack evened up in the belts and seats the cogs in the pulleys. It's not unusual to find the timing or the tension a little bit different after cranking the engine over.

An error of one tooth or a tooth and a half won't make much difference. Don't laugh, you may find that the new belt won't adjust closer than half a tooth to what the old one was. These belts can stretch a wee bit over their lifetime. More than that is risky.

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post #70 of 181 (permalink) Old 11-17-2007, 07:30 PM
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You got it pretty much correct in your understanding of it. And Paul has answered your last questions. But hard to tell for sure as that is one wicked paragraph.

Hawker22(Ken)
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