Changing GL1000 timing belts tutorial - Page 8 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #71 of 181 (permalink) Old 11-18-2007, 12:04 AM
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hahahah! Yeah Hawk after I read it back to myself it made sense to me but I wondered if anyone else could make sense of it!<grin> Thanks again for the responses! I believe I can probably do it without bending my engine now. One last question: Does anyone know the NAPA part number for the GL1200 belts and are both belts the same? I looked at a #250070 belt today at NAPA. It cost 17 bucks but he only had one in the store!

2003 Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad 1500FI
1978 Yamaha XS750SE "Special"
1984 Honda GL1200 Goldwing Aspencade
1979 Yamaha XS750SF "Special"
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post #72 of 181 (permalink) Old 11-18-2007, 12:09 AM
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That's the right belt, both the same. Pretty typical that they'd have only one belt usually have to get in another. Normally sincea car only uses one timing belt they stock very few of a wide variety and have to reorder often. In my area NAPA can usually get in a belt or other part in one or two days.

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post #73 of 181 (permalink) Old 11-18-2007, 12:13 AM
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Yeah Ex. The Napa guy said he had another one at a store on the other side of town. He said he could get it in an hour so I guess I'll go buy them tomorrow.

2003 Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad 1500FI
1978 Yamaha XS750SE "Special"
1984 Honda GL1200 Goldwing Aspencade
1979 Yamaha XS750SF "Special"
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post #74 of 181 (permalink) Old 11-21-2007, 07:28 PM
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Hey gang,

I know this is an old post but it is so good.

Any chance this is the same for a 97 1500 or is there another post that is better suited?

Toy4Rick

It never rains in Southern California, so we ride
1997 SE Pearl White
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post #75 of 181 (permalink) Old 11-21-2007, 09:09 PM
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It is basically the same for the 97 1500. Napa belt number is 250275, and I found them to be in the low $30 each. There are a few differences, like the timing mark is on the crank at the front instead of on the engine top.

Actually, just go to Rudy's site and he has a very nice writup on doing the 1500 belts.

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1997 GL1500SE--White Cloud
2001 GL1800----Blue Yonder
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post #76 of 181 (permalink) Old 11-22-2007, 01:39 PM
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Yeah I can second that. Go to Rudy's site, great photo's and explanation. I just did mine on my 1500, turned out great. A little fiddling around to get the tension right, I'm sure I could do again quicker.

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post #77 of 181 (permalink) Old 12-12-2007, 11:51 PM
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1200 I would recomend it for guys doing job 2nd time .

I didn't remove spark plugs-no reason. If resistanse bothers you turn crank slower- air will be able to go thru rings.

I turned crank by front bolt

I didn't remove radiator- remove 2 lower nuts- move it toward front wheel and hold it by wire attached to wheel.

I didn't remove hoses- remove 2 bolts holding waterpump cover and don't forget to use RTV to install it.

I have read somewhere that it should be possible to twist belt 90 degrees to check adjustment.

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ignition switch for $8, solenoid for $10, fuel pump for $30 still work fine!
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post #78 of 181 (permalink) Old 12-13-2007, 12:16 AM
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There are a lot of short cuts you can use working on anything but in the long run by far the best is to go by the book. The machine was built to a specific design and almost always cutting corners degrades the reliability, performance or design life. Do it right, craftsmanship always pays.


Personally I remove the plugs to make it easier to feel for interference, your touch will be a lot more sensitive without the resistance of compressing air. I've done the job bothby removing the radiator and merely shifting it forward a bit. Removing the radiator doesn't take that much more time and sure makes it easier to do the job especially the first time. I'd never twist a cog belt, they aren't designed to be twisted and it's possible to damage the fibers when there's any tension on the belt and you twist it. Don't use RTV or any gasket sealer when replacing the lower hose spigot on the water pump. It's designed for an o-ring seal without sealant. In a pinch you could use gasket sealer but I wouldn't do it except as a temporary measure and would clean the crud off and replace the o-ring as soon as possible.



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post #79 of 181 (permalink) Old 01-07-2008, 06:52 PM
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Just changed my belts for the first time and I want to thank Octane for a great post. Much more clear and helpful than what I was getting from my manual. Anyone putting off doing this, just follow this post and it will be much easier than you think, if I can do it anyone can!

Randy


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post #80 of 181 (permalink) Old 01-22-2008, 08:42 PM
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I just changed the timing belts on my GL1200A and I would like to give a big "THANK YOU" to Octane for the easy to follow tutorial. And a big "THANK YOU" to Wingnut for hosting this site.


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