Changing GL1000 timing belts tutorial - Page 9 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #81 of 181 (permalink) Old 01-25-2008, 11:48 AM
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Hi. so what is the right way to turn the crank when replacing the belts on my gl 1200. With the # 22 offset wrench , or the crank bolt in where the timing belts are. Thank You. Ron
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post #82 of 181 (permalink) Old 01-25-2008, 12:04 PM
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jan.t wrote:
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Hi. so what is the right way to turn the crank when replacing the belts on my gl 1200. With the # 22 offset wrench , or the crank bolt in where the timing belts are. Thank You. Ron
To turn the engine over I used a socket and ratchet on the generator bolt on the back of the engine. I turned the bolt like I was tightening it.
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post #83 of 181 (permalink) Old 01-25-2008, 12:27 PM
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I prefer to turn the engine with the crankshaft bolt, since it's directly connected to the pistons without a chain it seem more likely you could feel anything like a piston valve interference better.

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post #84 of 181 (permalink) Old 01-25-2008, 12:34 PM
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That would be easier too. I just followed Octains instructions and everything went well.
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post #85 of 181 (permalink) Old 01-25-2008, 01:32 PM
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Hi. It must be because the bike is a gl 1000 that octain used a # 22 off set wrench to turn the crank. With my gl 1200 I should be able to use a rachet wrench. Also my 1984 gl 1200 I removed the radiator, to get at the timing belts .The belts look in real good condition .but there is a 1/2 play up and down in the belts. Why can t I just loosen the tensioners bolts and tighten the belts up so I have 1/8 slack in them. Thanks for the great advice. Ron
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post #86 of 181 (permalink) Old 01-25-2008, 01:48 PM
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You could do that but do you know if the extra play in the belts is from misadjustment or maybe the belts have stretched over time? They don't cost all that much from NAPA and once changed you don't have to worry about them for years.

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post #87 of 181 (permalink) Old 01-25-2008, 02:54 PM
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Hi. I found the generator bolt and alligned all the marks up ,and actually then ,the left belt had very little play in it maybe 3/16 of a inch. But then the right belt had about 1/2 inch of play in it. I imagine if I turn the crank 360 degrees the right belt may only have 3/16 of play in it and the left belt will have more . My bike is a 1984 interstate with 37000 miles on it. Thanks for the answers. Ron
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post #88 of 181 (permalink) Old 04-22-2008, 09:50 AM
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THANKS for the help!

Let me add (or repeat) some things I learned/did on my '78 GL1000:

Requires 2 belts NAPA# 250274

Replaced the Thermostat while doing this, NAPA #101 (no gasket or sealer needed).

I didn'tneed an offset wrench, socket worked fine.

Replaced hoses, NAPA #7733 cut in half+/- and trimmed.

Get them hoses HOT (soft)before working with them (hair dryer, boiling water...) it will help with FORCING them back into place. If not replacing hoses, (or even if you do) then you may consider removing the bottom hose nipple from the water pump, it could save you a lot of cussing.

Put a towel over the front fender to prevent scratching.

And don't get the beltstoo tight, they WILL whine...

Position the timing marks carefully and take note of those postions. The LEFT and right wanted move a little on mine when the tension was released...

Now is a good time to clean the TB covers.

Later, Phil



Per my wife, "He\'s doing the best he can with as little as he knows!" (I\'m not sure how to take that.)
\'78 daily rider, Purchased May \'07, always in an ongoing sympathetic restoration...
AMA# 973498, GWRRA# 291184
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post #89 of 181 (permalink) Old 04-28-2008, 02:12 PM
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Thanks guys, What an awesome job by Octane! This is all i need! Jeff
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post #90 of 181 (permalink) Old 05-07-2008, 07:54 PM
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Sweet tutorial. Now I'm just hoping that since the right side pulley was off by about 10 degrees of the mark, before I fixed it, I'm not going to have to get new valves.

Currently working on:
1973 Honda CB350
1978 Honda Goldwing GL1000
1983 Honda CB650SC Nighthawk

Mechanic at night...computer engineer during the day, and lots and lots of coffee.

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