Rostra Global Universal Electronic Cruise in GL1100i - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-12-2007, 09:40 PM
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Jim,

The 82 and 83 speedo heads will have a different part number in that the 82 has an 80mph speedo and the 83 is 150mph. the inner workings may well be the same. I can't imagine Honda not using the same speed sensor for the air pressure and the turn signal cancel system. As a matter of fact, my 81 has the clicker/squawker for the turn signals. Below approx 40mph, the turn signals just click. Above 40mph they make a buzzer sound. The ewd won't show you too much about the speed sensor, just that it is there and there are no specific tests for it in the 81 manual. I'm sure you will work out the problem with the coil adapter. When you are experimenting such as you are, things rarely work smoothly on the first attempt. Keep up the good work. You are making the path for the rest of us easier.

Doug

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post #12 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-13-2007, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
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Doug,

After looking at the 81 Interstate diagram, it appears to me that you have not just one, but two speed sensors in your speedo. One is for the turn signal buzzer which should be the Brown/Red at the turn signal buzzer unit (wherever that is). This appears to be the same kind as on the '83, i.e., just a switchpulsed to ground and any potential comesthrough the buzzer unit (probably 12 volt,but this could be noisy from the buzzer, although it shouldn't be since the buzzer probably works when grounded.. don't know). The second speed sensor (for the air control unit) appears to be powered (+12 back to the fuse box Black/Brown tail light circuit) and is probably sending a pulsed 12 volt signal (through P colored wire (pink?)) that could be tapped at a number of places. I'd be interested in the pulse counts in both of these. Just as a suggestion, if and when you do the pulse count, do a number of wheel rotations because it is probably not an integer number. For the '83, it was somewhere between 70 an 71 pulses for 6 complete rotations; I called it 70.5 which after factoring in the circumference of the tire (about 78.5" if I remember), came out to roughly 9350-9400 pulse per mile.

Jim

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post #13 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-13-2007, 06:48 PM
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Jim,

After putting on my glasses and reviewing the ewd, I could see the two speed sensors. I will try to do a pulse count in the next couple of weeks. I could access the air suspension ecu by removing the shelter, although that is not as simple as it used to be. I added the onboard air compressor system tomy Wing, which makes removing the shelter a little more difficult.The turn signal buzzer is mounted right next to the counterweight between the forks. Probably have to remove the fairing for that. Well, I guess Iwill just have to pick the lesser of two evils and go at it. Thanks for the info, I will get back to you as soon as I do the pulse count.

Doug

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post #14 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-17-2007, 08:15 PM
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Very well done, Thanks.

John
2006 GL1800
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post #15 of 68 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 05:26 AM
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Hi sandiegobrass, I read your information on the Rostra Cruise Control installation and printed a copy of it, which is about worn out from reading, rereading, and studying. I also printed a copy of the one R. Kruby (tricky) had on the forum and studied it. I have a 1983 GL 1100A with a California sidecar.
I orderedthe 250-1223 cruise control and a 250-3592 dash mount switch from Brandon Distributing Inc. on September 6, 2007, at a cost of about what you said you paid.I received my order on the 12th. The cruise control was in a sealed package but the dash mount switch had been taken apart, wires cut with splices still attached, and no instructions. I called Brandon Distributing and talked with a fellow that couldn't have been nicer, he listened, apologized, and said a new switch would be in the mail that day. I mailed the used one to him the next day and received a good one about three days later. I guess, sometimes these things happen.
I got sidetracked by several other things I was doing to the GL 1100 and a few things that my wife thought should be done. One of the time consuming projects was wiring in a GL 1500 Rear Speaker Kit so we can have a fader control from front stock speakers to speakers in the sidecar.
While waiting for the cruise control, then more time for the switch, I built the carburetor arm and the bracket for mounting to the fuel filter bolt. I finished the installation of the cruise control yesterday and my son and I tested it today. I didn't do everything like you or tricky. We may make some changes later if we are not satisfied but for now everything seems to be working well with our short time testing.
I mounted the servo unit just as you did, ran the control cable over the top of the shock like yours, but routed the wiring harness with the loom over the shock and along the right frame under the seat, exiting the loom with the lt. green wire to across the back of the frame to the starter solenoid plug. The ground wire, just long enough,is attached to the cross brace bolt on the frame. Extra wire and bulkhead connectors are between the fuel tank and air box. I cut the loom at the corner of fuel tank/air box and used the rest of it around the forward cables up theleft side of the frame. I did take your advice and invested in a brass feeler gage and have used the cut strips with heat shrink to make connections in the plugs. Works great.

With my 250-1223 cruise control, I received a separate slip of paper that says:
250-1223, 250-1316, 250-1222 Lost motion built in cruise control no bead chain used.
Did your servo cable slide freely, no resistance, in and out of the cable housing about 2 1/8" (54 mm)? This one does. I mounted the bracket(made from a 2 1/2" corner brace) but I reworked it to put it in backward from the way you did, longend pointed to the left. I clamped the cable housing inthe firsthole from the right with the provided smooth cable clamp and mounted the flag nut to the bracketin the second hole. I did have to slot the holes to get them whereI wanted them. I used your idea, the sliding window lock,(already had three or four of them) attached to the carburetor horizontal armto#4.The cruise cable with the Eyeletconnector is connected directly to the window lock. When attaching the window lock to the arm I first pushed some of the cable into the housing leaving 1 5/8" (41 mm) out. My thoughts, that gives 13 mm of slack before the cruise starts to move the horizontal arm. Later weplan toplay with this setting. When we engage the cruise control and at the same time release the throttle, the speed drops about 4-5 mph then the cruise brings it back to the engaged speed. Duh, hold throttle until you feel cruise take over. I have an adjustable control arm made per your instructions but have not used it.

Overall, we are satisfied with the operation. We need to ride more and see how it works on a trip when I follow my son on the GL 1500. The cruise only changed about 2 mph up hills,over,down hills, small hills. The operation was smooth, not abrupt changes or jerky up and down. I was riding in the sidecar part of the time watching the throttle linkage and did not see it constantly moving. I don't think we need to do anything to the accelerator pump linkage.

One thing still confusing me is the installation manual talks about adding beads for slack. Your and tricky's installation, pictures or write-updoesn't look like there is any slack. You may not need slack with the adjustable control arm. My thinking, with the cruise controloperational rangeat 41 mm and our throttle range at 29 mm, if there is no slack we would only be using the first 29 mm of the available cruise control. With slack, there would be cruise control movement before it moved the throttle, therefore, to me, it should be a smoother operation. Any ideas appreciated.

Thank you for the excellent write up and pictures making my job a lot easier and simpler. I used most of your ideas and installation procedures. I do have pictures and can give you more details if you like.

Wineberry-1989 Goldwing GL 1500
Wineberry/Brown-1983 Goldwing GL 1100A with 1983 Wineberry/Brown-California Sidecar
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post #16 of 68 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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Wichita Scorpion wro
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With my 250-1223 cruise control, I received a separate slip of paper that says:
250-1223, 250-1316, 250-1222 Lost motion built in cruise control no bead chain used.
Did your servo cable slide freely, no resistance, in and out of the cable housing about 2 1/8" (54 mm)? This one does. ...
Yes mine also.. I used the bead chain primarily because of my tight bends.. I thought that there might be some resistance to pushing the cable back in.. This probably was not an issue...

I used your idea, the sliding window lock, (already had three or four of them) attached to the carburetor horizontal armto#4.The cruise cable with the Eyeletconnector is connected directly to the window lock. When attaching the window lock to the arm I first pushed some of the cable into the housing leaving 1 5/8" (41 mm) out. My thoughts, that gives 13 mm of slack before the cruise starts to move the horizontal arm. Later weplan toplay with this setting. When we engage the cruise control and at the same time release the throttle, the speed drops about 4-5 mph then the cruise brings it back to the engaged speed. Duh, hold throttle until you feel cruise take over. I have an adjustable control arm made per your instructions but have not used it.

I LOVE the window lock method.. perfect solution... using the short throw doesn't solve the sensitivity issues, but with your extra weight (sidecar) and wind drag, the greater sensitivity may be just fine.. YOu may want to decrease your slack a little to get a quicker engage.... I don't think that the CC actually pulls the cable all the way in at maximum travel, like you have assumed..

.....

One thing still confusing me is the installation manual talks about adding beads for slack. Your and tricky's installation, pictures or write-updoesn't look like there is any slack. You may not need slack with the adjustable control arm. My thinking, with the cruise controloperational rangeat 41 mm and our throttle range at 29 mm, if there is no slack we would only be using the first 29 mm of the available cruise control. With slack, there would be cruise control movement before it moved the throttle, therefore, to me, it should be a smoother operation. Any ideas appreciated.

I don't think that the slack (difference 41 and 29) would contribute much to a smoother operation(but I may be wrong); it is so the servo is not physically limited from full stroke movement. As I understand it the servo has about 17 lb pull.. probably not enough to bend any linkage, but not a good idea to try... more importantly, you might be blowing main cc fuses if you physically limit the servo travel, but this would only happen if the throttle demand is not producing the acceleration and speed.. not likely with the motorcycle.. Neither seems like a big deal to me. I don't need slack because the full throttle movement at my linkage was greater than 41 mm (more like 60mm). Tricky just chose not to include it, which is alright until you break something or blow a fuse.

Thank you for the excellent write up and pictures making my job a lot easier and simpler. I used most of your ideas and installation procedures. I do have pictures and can give you more details if you like.
Thank you WS!! I am glad it worked for you... There is still more that I intend to do... I have the coil signal filter working and scope tested, but not tested with the cc... fortunately for you an I, we have a VSS...

what switch settings are you using????

I always enjoy pictures!!


Jim

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post #17 of 68 (permalink) Old 09-30-2007, 08:19 PM
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If you eliminate the slack in the cable the delay from setting to the cruise taking up will disappear. On the Rostra installation I put in my truck that's what I ended up doing. The cruise operates just about instantaneously. The slack they are referring to is to make sure the cruise actuator doesn't limit the travel of the throttle arm when you manually open the throttle.

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post #18 of 68 (permalink) Old 10-01-2007, 12:38 AM
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sandiegobrass, I will pull the saddlebag and look at the switch settings, need to be sure anyway. My son and I did change some of them while we were out testing. I think Ihave written downwhat they are but----want to be sure. When we got back we installed the saddlebag to see how the saddlebag mount fits over the cruise control bracket. The sleeve in the saddlebag rubber part is supposed to go against the chrome rack.The sleeve caught on the edge of the cruise bracket and then attempted to bend to the side in the rubber. I was kinda worried about the bolt bending when I saw where you and I placed the cruise mounting bracket. By positioning the cruise bracket while tightening the saddlebag mounting bolt, we were able to get the sleeve to go into the hole in the cruise bracket. Then we just tightened the bolt until the rubber started to spread. This also slightly squeezes the rubber around the cruise bracket. Will have to watch this each time the saddlebag is reinstalled. Will send you some pictures later too.

exavid, my son and Iwere already thinking what you stated. We plan to play with the slack later. Thanks. I used to fly and sail but now I'm just glad that we have the sidecar so my wife andI can still ride. Getten old is hell but my wife and I don't like the alternative.
Bunch of neat people on this forum andI am happy to be here.

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post #19 of 68 (permalink) Old 10-01-2007, 08:12 AM Thread Starter
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WS.... Yes, you lose the spacing that the bushing provides, but a fender washer that istightto the bolt diameter will regain this.... I haven't put a washer in yet.. just draw it up snug, but not to mash the washer.

..and I was also curious if you foundthe pulse count of the Aspencade to be the same as what I had for the Interstate.. I think you have the electronicinstruments whereas I have the mechanical.

As for the location, I still would put it in the same place if I did it again. I was curious about your present opinion.

sdb/Jim

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post #20 of 68 (permalink) Old 10-03-2007, 01:33 AM
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sandiegobrass,Today, after I got my control switch mounted, my wife and I took a ride. When my son andI tested the Cruise Control day before yesterday, I had a tie wrap holding the switch.I am satisfied with how thecruise control is working. We went on a 70 mph divided 4 lane and on one long high overpass the speed dropped going up from 70 mphto 69 mph,then on the downside climbed up to 72 mph. Remember, we have a sidecar attached so we have weight transferred to the bike and the extra weight todrag around.
Switch settings: 1-on, 2-off, (low); 3-off, 4-on, 5-off, 6-on, (9650); 7-on, 8-off, 9-off, (4 cyl low) 10-on, (Sq Wave); 11-off, (Manual); 12-off, (open)
Fender washer is a good idea. Right now it is drawn up snug with the rubber squished just a bit.
At my age the pulse count was running out the plug so fast I couldn't count them. Actually I don't havethe equipmentto check the pulse count. I worked electronics maintenance (Radar) for 23 years with the USAF but technology is way ahead of me now. I do have the electronic dash.
I also would recommend the placement of the servo where your servoisand I just followed your lead. Thanks for all your work and the write-up. Looks the best place to me and the unit looks to be water/dust proof. I do plan to build a backing behind the servo, between the wheel and the servo. Will let you know how that goes. We do ride in rain if it's there when we want to go.
For the control switch, I have the Dashmount. I hate to have to correct manufacturing design flaws. Looking at the switch, the covers did not snap together completely at the top and right side. The circuit board has a round component that is thicker than the space behind it. I had to use my dremel tool to grind away some of the plastic case so everything fit correctly.And the Control Switchfor sure is not waterproof. I coated the back side of the circuit board, along with the wires extending out,with liquid electrical tape. The front has a rubber type cover over it so I coated the edge of the cover and circuit board to seal them together.It allfit together nice and snug then.
I spent most of yesterday afternoon and part of the evening on the switch and building the mounting plate for it. Itmade aneat installation and the buttons are all within range of the left thumb.
Note the pictures, you can see where I dremeled out part of the back cover and the liquid tape on the edges of the switch.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Switch Mount 1.jpg (14.2 KB, 1118 views)

Wineberry-1989 Goldwing GL 1500
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