Hey guys, just wanted to post my experience so maybe will help someone out.
I installed the Audiovox unit which worked great for a few thousand miles then for some unknown reason it started acting up.
The problems seemed to come on slowly, it would engage fine then after a couple minutes I'd get a surge in the throttle then it would drop out completely. I didnt do anything to source the problem because all my riding has been places I couldnt use the cruise anyway.
We're planning a vacation so I decided to dig into the problem, which had gotten worse to the point that all it would do was pull the throttle once then release when hitting set then it would drop out.
I checked all the connections, redid some, played with some settings but it never came back so tired of playing with it I decided to install a Rostra unit.
I'm thinkin maybe the location I had it right behind the right lower fairing cover may have cooked something so I went with behind the right hard bag like Sandi.
I used the supplied heavy gage strap and drilled 2 holes in the fender to bolt on.
When the shocks bottom it just
contacts the box.
(Yeah, I dont want it to get wet and short out, the dip switch cover is getting a thick coat of silicone too
Having parts from 2 kits comes in handy when making the cable clamp, it's mounted to the same place as before on the fuel filter bolt.
Time to get creative making the throttle link. Sandi isnt kidding when he says th metal has to be thin to fit on the linkage.
A Sawzall blade fits perfectly.
The blade has a tab and the hole in it are placed just right so when the CC pulls on the linkage the blade tab contacts the linkage just perfectly. It was like the Sawzall blade was created for just this purpose!
Weld a bolt on, cut to size and grind smooth and it's ready to go.
This link bracket extension thingy provided about 2 1/2" of linkage travel, way more than what Rostra says as a minimum of 1 5/8". I think this is causing some problems tuning it because the travel is so great. The CC has a long way to pull I guess, anyway what happens is the CC is slow to react to speed changes so I'm loosing 2-3 MPH when starting a climb then gaining sometimes 5 MPH going over the top. Otherwise on level ground and slight hills it stays within 1-2 MPH.
I made this shorter link to try out tomorrow, too damn hot right now to test it.
Setting up the dip switches has been very odd, the final settings are very different than I expected.
Gain I set to "High", I have to retry "Low" again, I dont remember what effect it had.
9650 PPM was VERY erratic. It surged a lot then would apply damn near 1/2 throttle then level off then loose speed, like the CC was "hunting" for a happy medium but never found it.
After trying lower (worse) then higher (better each higher number) then stopping at 18000 it smooothed right out like a CC should be with gradual throttle movements to correct speed.
"8 Cylinder Low" resulted in what I consider a longer than acceptable time before the CC takes control of the throttle.
"4 cylinder High" makes the CC take the throttle almost instantly.
That's my experience so far. I'll post what I've done to further "tweak" the settings.
(The next day)
Ok, went for a ride with my son and it works great.
I used the shorter throttle link which seems perfect, nice smooth action holding the speed with no hunting or strange accelerations or decels.
It does seem to have a bit of a problem keeping accurate speed going down hill when first starting the down hill grade from a set speed. It will try to slow the speed unsuccessfully then there comes a point where I get an abrupt "closure" of the throttle. That happens just one time and not all the time then it recovers smoothly.
It's acceptable to me so I'm just going to chock it up to the nature of the beast.
I tried the "Low" gain setting. It would loose at least 5 mph before accelerating so back it went to "High"
My final settings are:
Pulses Mile= 18,000
Engine/Setup timer= 4 cylinder High
VSS source= On ( I used the VSS in the speedo)
Control Switch= Off
The "tach wire is grounded.
The neutral (or clutch cutoff) wire is not connected.
All things considered the Rostra is easier to install because it doesnt need vacuum.
It most definitely is harder to set up than The Audiovox unit which was pretty much plug and play.
My testing has been only for about 100 miles so far so I may change my opinion later but If I we're to do another bike I'd choose the Rostra only because it doesnt need a vacuum source and storage container, BUT, if I wanted dead on control within 1 MPH I'd go with the Audiovox.
I cant say for certain why the Audiovox died, was it heat? was it vibration? or was it chance I got a defective unit? I may never know unless someone wants it to experiment on (I'll send it to you) but it worked great when it WAS working.