Rostra Global Universal Electronic Cruise in GL1100i - Page 4 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #31 of 68 (permalink) Old 10-06-2007, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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Wichita Scorpion wrote:
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... Also found it works on vacuum,.....
Almost every factory cruise system uses vacuum.. not going to write a dissertation as to why, except to say that after studying this for a while, I came to the conclusion that a vacuum controlled servo is ideally suited for this type of application. If requires the simplest type of controller (open to vacuum if too slow, open to vent if too fast, closed if right on), it is inherently stable, and requires minimal tuning... If I were doing it again, I'd certainly try the vacuum... not that I don't like what I have.. I just need another research project...

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post #32 of 68 (permalink) Old 11-15-2007, 11:37 PM
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This is update on my 1983 GL 1100A Cruise Control installation. We haven't been on any long trips but have had time to check out the operation, slow, fast, up and down hills, level. I am very well satisfied with the way it operates. I did take the slack out at the arm connection and the Cruise engages as soon as I push the set, not a delay like before.
Coupleother things:
1. I installed LEDs in place of incandescentbulbs in the Aspy and sidecar (tail, brake, turn). The Cruise would not engage until I putone incandescent tail/brake bulb back in the sidecar. May work on that later.
2. Since I had replaced an OEMbad turn signal relay with one recommended on this forum, locally available Tridon Stant EP 28, I found that it is compatible with the LEDs, works great.
Thanks again, sandiegobrass, for all your work, your help,and for posting the procedures on this forum.

Wineberry-1989 Goldwing GL 1500
Wineberry/Brown-1983 Goldwing GL 1100A with 1983 Wineberry/Brown-California Sidecar
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post #33 of 68 (permalink) Old 11-16-2007, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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Wichita Scorpion wrote:
Quote:
1. I installed LEDs in place of incandescentbulbs in the Aspy and sidecar (tail, brake, turn). The Cruise would not engage until I putone incandescent tail/brake bulb back in the sidecar. May work on that later.
Thank you.. incidently the LED stuff was covered in the installation pdf...... quote:


[align=left]Violet wire
-...If you are using diode lamps instead of bulbs, you will have to add a normally closed relay that opens when the brakes are pressed.....[/align]

[align=left]Jim[/align]

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---------------
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1983 GL1100I
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But formerly San Diego, Terra Haute, Aiken, Oak Ridge, Tonopah NV, Pasadena CA, Aiken SC, Richland WA, and now back to Tonopah NV..)
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post #34 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-01-2008, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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Just an up date... the Rostra unit on my GL1100 definitely works better than the OEM on my GL1500... and I have about 5000 miles on it now...I ride to work 35 miles each way.. almost all "freeway".... some hills... I prefer the GL1100 for the cruise... even though for just about everything else, the 1500 wins...

AKA "Jim"
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---------------
2000 GL1500SE
1983 GL1100I
---------------
But formerly San Diego, Terra Haute, Aiken, Oak Ridge, Tonopah NV, Pasadena CA, Aiken SC, Richland WA, and now back to Tonopah NV..)
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post #35 of 68 (permalink) Old 08-20-2008, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quick note.. my hosting service has deleted all my files... they say they are restoring them.. so my links here should be restored soon.. Sorry for any inconvenience.. Jim

I am in theprocess of restoring them.. This thread should be up to date... PM if you see anything missing.. Jim

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If a man speaks in the forest and there is no woman to hear him, is he still wrong?
---------------
2000 GL1500SE
1983 GL1100I
---------------
But formerly San Diego, Terra Haute, Aiken, Oak Ridge, Tonopah NV, Pasadena CA, Aiken SC, Richland WA, and now back to Tonopah NV..)
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post #36 of 68 (permalink) Old 09-08-2008, 02:28 PM
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I have enjoyed all the info and great comments from all here.
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post #37 of 68 (permalink) Old 07-12-2009, 05:16 PM
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Hey guys, just wanted to post my experience so maybe will help someone out.

I installed the Audiovox unit which worked great for a few thousand miles then for some unknown reason it started acting up.
The problems seemed to come on slowly, it would engage fine then after a couple minutes I'd get a surge in the throttle then it would drop out completely. I didnt do anything to source the problem because all my riding has been places I couldnt use the cruise anyway.
We're planning a vacation so I decided to dig into the problem, which had gotten worse to the point that all it would do was pull the throttle once then release when hitting set then it would drop out.
I checked all the connections, redid some, played with some settings but it never came back so tired of playing with it I decided to install a Rostra unit.
I'm thinkin maybe the location I had it right behind the right lower fairing cover may have cooked something so I went with behind the right hard bag like Sandi.

I used the supplied heavy gage strap and drilled 2 holes in the fender to bolt on.
When the shocks bottom it just contacts the box.

(Yeah, I dont want it to get wet and short out, the dip switch cover is getting a thick coat of silicone too



Having parts from 2 kits comes in handy when making the cable clamp, it's mounted to the same place as before on the fuel filter bolt.



Time to get creative making the throttle link. Sandi isnt kidding when he says th metal has to be thin to fit on the linkage.
A Sawzall blade fits perfectly.



The blade has a tab and the hole in it are placed just right so when the CC pulls on the linkage the blade tab contacts the linkage just perfectly. It was like the Sawzall blade was created for just this purpose!
Weld a bolt on, cut to size and grind smooth and it's ready to go.





This link bracket extension thingy provided about 2 1/2" of linkage travel, way more than what Rostra says as a minimum of 1 5/8". I think this is causing some problems tuning it because the travel is so great. The CC has a long way to pull I guess, anyway what happens is the CC is slow to react to speed changes so I'm loosing 2-3 MPH when starting a climb then gaining sometimes 5 MPH going over the top. Otherwise on level ground and slight hills it stays within 1-2 MPH.

I made this shorter link to try out tomorrow, too damn hot right now to test it.



Setting up the dip switches has been very odd, the final settings are very different than I expected.

Gain I set to "High", I have to retry "Low" again, I dont remember what effect it had.

9650 PPM was VERY erratic. It surged a lot then would apply damn near 1/2 throttle then level off then loose speed, like the CC was "hunting" for a happy medium but never found it.
After trying lower (worse) then higher (better each higher number) then stopping at 18000 it smooothed right out like a CC should be with gradual throttle movements to correct speed.

Engine/Setup Timer:

"8 Cylinder Low" resulted in what I consider a longer than acceptable time before the CC takes control of the throttle.
"4 cylinder High" makes the CC take the throttle almost instantly.

That's my experience so far. I'll post what I've done to further "tweak" the settings.



(The next day)

Ok, went for a ride with my son and it works great.

I used the shorter throttle link which seems perfect, nice smooth action holding the speed with no hunting or strange accelerations or decels.
It does seem to have a bit of a problem keeping accurate speed going down hill when first starting the down hill grade from a set speed. It will try to slow the speed unsuccessfully then there comes a point where I get an abrupt "closure" of the throttle. That happens just one time and not all the time then it recovers smoothly.
It's acceptable to me so I'm just going to chock it up to the nature of the beast.

I tried the "Low" gain setting. It would loose at least 5 mph before accelerating so back it went to "High"

My final settings are:

Gain= High
Pulses Mile= 18,000
Engine/Setup timer= 4 cylinder High
VSS source= On ( I used the VSS in the speedo)
Transmission= On
Control Switch= Off

The "tach wire is grounded.
The neutral (or clutch cutoff) wire is not connected.

All things considered the Rostra is easier to install because it doesnt need vacuum.
It most definitely is harder to set up than The Audiovox unit which was pretty much plug and play.

My testing has been only for about 100 miles so far so I may change my opinion later but If I we're to do another bike I'd choose the Rostra only because it doesnt need a vacuum source and storage container, BUT, if I wanted dead on control within 1 MPH I'd go with the Audiovox.
I cant say for certain why the Audiovox died, was it heat? was it vibration? or was it chance I got a defective unit? I may never know unless someone wants it to experiment on (I'll send it to you) but it worked great when it WAS working.

1983 GL1100 Interstate with 1200 engine, single carb, and C5 ignition.



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post #38 of 68 (permalink) Old 07-12-2009, 08:48 PM
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I think if you keep tweaking the adjustments on the Rostra you'll be able to get it to stay within 1mph until a hill gets too steep for full throttle or too steep a down grade for a closed throttle to hold. I had to play around with the various settings when I installed a Rostra in my old diesel Dodge. One thing I found is that the amound of slack is important, too much and the control comes on way too slow and too little and you get somewhat jerky or too quick operation. The amount of slack in the throttle cable changes the way the sensitivity control works, they play against each other. It took me a while but I eventually got better results with the Rostra than the factory unit in my Mercury Gran Marquis and that one was very good.

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post #39 of 68 (permalink) Old 07-14-2009, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
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Like exavid said.. I think you could probably find some better settings.. The 18000 ppm setting that you are usingis about double the actual 9650 ppm as measured.. and this affects gain as much as anything else and won't lock on until going considerably more than the target 35 mph... Personally, I thinkthe longerlinkage is better, although it will work with the shorter as well as others have demonstrated... Mine is working within +- 1mph and Iuse it every day... The linked document in the first post has a map of how the different adjustments interact... At first glance, the changes I'd make are back to 9650.. this will alsochange the gain which you don't need, so you'll need to change gain.. probably to low.. also, the 4cyl high settingaffects gain, so this could bechanged as well..


Also, I need to recheck my data because dan's description of the affect of ppm is exactly opposite the way thedata was presented in the document.. I am hoping that I did not make an error in reporting it (and only finding it a year later) It is possible that Imay have reversed the 8000 and 10000 when making the table. I need to find the original data and check.. and I never tested 12000.. just put it in the table as a possibility with the trend established by 8000, 9650, 10000 points..

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1983 GL1100I
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But formerly San Diego, Terra Haute, Aiken, Oak Ridge, Tonopah NV, Pasadena CA, Aiken SC, Richland WA, and now back to Tonopah NV..)
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post #40 of 68 (permalink) Old 07-14-2009, 09:37 PM
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SDB, I did want to explain all the steps I took to arrive at those settings over the course of at least 4 hours riding but decided not to, and I certainly want to thank you for all the hard work you put in with all the testing and documentation then creating the pdf. I've done a few documentations, much smaller but still, so I can appreciate how much work and dedication goes into it.

Like I said in my earlier post, I was surprised to end up at the settings I did. They are even very different than the Audiovox, dare I say almost as if they are reversed, at least some of them.

I spent easily 4 hours riding, stopping, riding, tweaking settings starting from the baseline settings you wrote on page 12.

With those baseline settings the CC acted like it was getting confusing signals.
It would accel then decel repeatedly and harshly then smooth out some but never steady, then accel and decel repeatedly and at random. Very unstable.

I'm not much for lengthy discussions describing all the setting changes and the sequences I took getting there but suffice it to say, I didnt just pull them out of a hat or make any rash decisions (hasty is the word I'm looking for) to make the change, same applies to the throttle link. Shortening it smoothed out the actions considerably after getting the DIP'S set to the best it will operate BEFORE shortening the link because it acted as if the cable travel was too long.
After shortening it no more changes needed to be made, it smoothed right out.

btw, the reason I shorted the link is because the Audiovox was connected directly to the #4 carb pin and it was smooth, my first link was much longer than yours too so...

All I know is at this point throttle action is smooth, precise and predictable with no jerky accel's or decel's.
It's lowest set speed is 40 MPH, works at 75 which is fast enough for me, and speed is maintained within 1 mph on level ground and 2-3 up and down hill.

What more is needed regardless of where the DIP'S are set, right?

So you know, I mean no disrespect, I'm just saying what I ended up with after hours of trial and error is different than what you and others have found.
Maybe there is something wrong with the unit I got, in which case it will likely fail at some point, time and miles will tell.

That's the way my luck goes sometimes, I end up having to find out the hard way.




1983 GL1100 Interstate with 1200 engine, single carb, and C5 ignition.



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