Homemade Bearing removal Tools for gl1200 - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-06-2009, 12:05 PM
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Truthfully...I was originally going to cut two slots, but lacking a bandsaw, I ended up using a hacksaw by hand, and after 10 minutes hard work cutting the one slot, I decided "to hell with that, one will do just fine"


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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-06-2009, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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GSMacLean wrote:
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Truthfully...I was originally going to cut two slots, but lacking a bandsaw, I ended up using a hacksaw by hand, and after 10 minutes hard work cutting the one slot, I decided "to hell with that, one will do just fine"
Thank goodness for a saw-zaw

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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-06-2009, 01:19 PM
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And it's at this point that I will not admit that I have one, along with a collection of fine-toothed bimetallic blades for it, and just didn't think of using it at the time.


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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-07-2009, 08:17 PM
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you guys are brilliant truly brilliant !!!!!got to do mine this week !! dave

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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-07-2009, 08:49 PM
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I used a bolt for my expander but similar approach...

You tighten the hex bolt while inside the wheel hub.








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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-07-2009, 08:51 PM
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Then you drive it out with the handle that spans the hex bolt head.

But the wedge design is much simpler and faster to make by a long shot.








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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-07-2009, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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awsome Rudy, that is what I was trying to do by cutting down on the slipage you get from not making contact on all sides.

Again Cool pics everyone is on it

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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-08-2009, 12:29 AM
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i think the threads making contact give the most bite

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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-08-2009, 08:48 AM
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RayandTracy wrote:
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awsome Rudy, that is what I was trying to do by cutting down on the slipage you get from not making contact on all sides.

Again Cool pics everyone is on it
My method requires that a lathe drill the center holes in the 3/4" rods and you want to remember to tap the hole before sawing the X slots.

Also the head of the hex bolt was turned down to reduce the diameter and give more metal face to the driver rod.

Good thing about this approach is uniform outward pressure on all sides and easy removal of the bolt after removal.

Down side is that the expansion is not infinite like it is with a wedge. I think I will weld a bead around the crown of the bolt just below the head and turn that into a tapered round wedge so I can get more expansion if I want it.

Also I may harden the steel at the driving lip area just because this steel is fairly mild. Or maybe I'll just beat it to death like everything else.

Works real well otherwise.





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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-09-2009, 01:07 AM
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tried the single cut in the threaded pipe and no go!! those suckers are in there , it there a store i can buy the bearing pullers ,,no time to make the tools ?//

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