GL1200 Fork Seal Tutorial - Page 6 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #51 of 130 (permalink) Old 07-29-2009, 02:37 PM
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Good infor looks like a Winter JOB

Roger Foley
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post #52 of 130 (permalink) Old 07-30-2009, 05:02 PM
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Hi all,



Well, the job is done. Being alone to do most of it, it took longer than if I would have had someone who had done it before or could have read the manual while I did the work.

I decided from the get go that I would replace all parts even before I did the disassembly so I ordered those a few days before project start.



My progress is as follows:

Evening 1: read and re-read Clymer Manual (more on that later). 1 hour or so



Evening 2: Disassembly as per manual, cleaning, checking out other parts that are disassembled in the process but not necessarily part of the forks. 2 hours



Evening 3: Put parts in forks, installed 20 weight oil,called wife to garage to help with springs (no she is not stronger than me, I needed someone to turn socket while I put the pressure down on them). 2 hours



Sat AM: Intalled forks on bike and went for test ride but rain started hard after less than 1 click. Noticed a leak almost immediately on both sides. I was very pissed and wondering what step I had missed as I was sure I had followed all the steps. Came back home and re-read the manual. I was sure I had not missed a step. 1 hour



Sunday AM:Go to forums and google and search for possible cause of leak. Find a reference somewhere "Do not install seal as per Clymer manual because the way the manual says is backwards" Well, let's just say my thoughts and words were not appropriate for a Sunday Morning. I was less than pleased. I was hoping that the seals were not ruined. Seeing as wife had plans for me the rest of the day Sunday, solving would have to wait.



Monday Evening:I put on the coveralls and got to it. Dissassembly this time was much quicker as I decided to take the short cut and just take the forks off without taking off seat, tank cover, etc. I actually drained the forks while they were still on the bike and removed one at a time to work on it.As I had somemore fork oil, I decided against using the oil that I justdrained even though it had no miles on it. Disassembly of the fork parts was a breeze but I had a hard time to put in the seal in the first fork as I was trying not to damage it.



The second side was almost too easy and was actually concerned that that seal was "toast". Called the wife to help me out again and got everything back together. To continue with the bad luck, as I was tightening the last wheel stud, it broke. That was all I could do that night.1.5 hours



Tuesday Evening: I picked up a stud at the local dealer, I wanted 4 but at least they had one (other 3 coming). I replaced the broken stud, double checked my reinstall and went for a drive. 15 miles and no leaking.15 min plus drive



So what should have been a 2-3 hour job turned into much longer. But in all the frustrations, I am glad I did it myself.



I want to thank all the people who posts their experiences and expert advice.



Thanks



Dan
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post #53 of 130 (permalink) Old 08-06-2009, 12:26 AM
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Wow. Nice work!! This is Perfect!!!!!
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post #54 of 130 (permalink) Old 08-06-2009, 02:45 PM
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Followed your demo, Works perfect!!! Thanks!!
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post #55 of 130 (permalink) Old 08-08-2009, 07:18 AM
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excellent tutorial and great pictures, thanks for sharing the with us, you deserve mega mana for that

:clap per:

GSVH
radio hams do it all night !!! and sometimes with frequency
\'88 GL1500
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post #56 of 130 (permalink) Old 08-10-2009, 05:03 AM
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New here and getting ready to do this myself. After years of working on dirt bikes this is a whole new ball game. I inhereited this bike from my dad who had a motortike kit put on it. Spent all day Saturday reuilding the clutch master and slave cyl. Bleeding them was a pain!
Look forward to learning a lot from you guys!

1986 GL1200 SE-i Trike
Thanks to my wife who puts up with me saying "I wonder if this will work" and who likes my cooking!

The Wife...Louann

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post #57 of 130 (permalink) Old 08-10-2009, 05:32 AM
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RobTheHillbilly wrote:
Quote:
New here and getting ready to do this myself. After years of working on dirt bikes this is a whole new ball game. I inhereited this bike from my dad who had a motortike kit put on it. Spent all day Saturday reuilding the clutch master and slave cyl. Bleeding them was a pain!
Look forward to learning a lot from you guys!
Welcome to this Great Site!

Pull up a chair and join on in!

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Working riding whenever we can. Wish I had more time to hang out with my goldwing family!
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post #58 of 130 (permalink) Old 08-10-2009, 01:13 PM
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Hi,
The Demo makes it easy!! I had the old out and the new in an hour! Works perfect too!!
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post #59 of 130 (permalink) Old 08-16-2009, 09:48 AM
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I'm getting ready to put the forks back together and I must say that this thread has made the job a whole lot easier. Now I have a couple of questions, the first bieng what should I use in the forks? I have read about using everything from ATF to 15 weight fork oil, in yall's opinion what do you think? And the second question is, without taking the top cap loose, what's the easiest way to get the fluid in and how much do I use? Oh yeah I have the air assisted forks if that helps.

I thank you for taking the time to make this tutorial as it has made this job so much easier. You should have seen the look on my dad's face when he saw the front end off of his bike!

1986 GL1200 SE-i Trike
Thanks to my wife who puts up with me saying "I wonder if this will work" and who likes my cooking!

The Wife...Louann

Tennessee F.& A.M.
Past Master Arcana Lodge #489
32* KCCH Scottish Rite, Valley Of Knoxville Orient of Tennessee

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post #60 of 130 (permalink) Old 08-16-2009, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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The easiest way will be to take the top caps off.
Just my opinion.

Scott

Traveling fork rebuilding and motorcycle delivery available.

Fork seal tutorial
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