Changing the Clutch on a GL1500 - Page 3 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #21 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-29-2010, 04:11 AM
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Excellent info and pictures ,we will most likley move this to the FAQ forum as there is too much good info for it to get lost in the tech forum .. well done Ciaran

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post #22 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-29-2010, 05:23 AM
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Excellent post, thank you. I too am gonna have to do this soometime this year. Mine is just starting to show signs of weakness after 98000 miles.


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post #23 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-29-2010, 06:18 AM
 
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wexy wrote:
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Excellent info and pictures ,we will most likley move this to the FAQ forum as there is too much good info for it to get lost in the tech forum .. well done Ciaran
I agree, excellent thread. Moving it to FAQ now.

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post #24 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-29-2010, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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Rahim wrote:
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Looking at your bike mileage, at 60,000 mls requires clutch replacement worries me. My bike now approaching 50000mls. tq
I wouldn't worry too much. Yours should last several hundred thousand miles. There was a specific reason mine was bad. Let's not talk about it!

Present Bike: \'90 GL1500
Previous Bike: \'85 GL1200
Previous Bike: \'81 GL500I
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post #25 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-29-2010, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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By the way, thanks for everybody's comments.

Present Bike: \'90 GL1500
Previous Bike: \'85 GL1200
Previous Bike: \'81 GL500I
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post #26 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-31-2010, 07:45 AM
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Thanks. Nice to know this can be done with the engine in the frame too. I could have sworn I had read somewhere that the engine needed to be dropped.

Before I realised that my clutch chatter was caused by too viscous engine oil, I had gone into a Honda dealer and asked what it would take to change the clutch disks...they just looked at me strange and said "uh...dunno...never done that".

Nicholas.

1995 GL1500 SE (Green)
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post #27 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-15-2012, 10:15 AM
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Great pictures and documentation. I am now doing the 2nd clutch in my 98. Yea Yea I know shouldnt happen. My own fault for playing . Anyways, just a note to add. Just for safety, I also take the battery out before taking the alternator out. Dont want to fry any wiring. By the way, its not a 2hour job by any means.
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post #28 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-22-2012, 09:14 AM
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Well finally have my clutch back in. I did make some clutch pack tools. Used some Large pvc fittings and modified them for both alignment and installing the
spring circlip. I did take a few pics of the assmebly and the clutch pack and will try to u/l them later. Pain the the butt for sure. But should be on the road today after I clean up and do a few test. So if someone would like to see my tools then pm me and we can figure it out. Not one to just do the picture thing but having to make a could of tools took some thinking. Much better than buying the tool from honda for sure.
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post #29 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-24-2012, 05:25 PM
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Just completed a clutch job on a '89 GL1500 - just thought I would throw in a few thoughts:
- this job is somewhat straightforward...until you get the clutch pack out. Breaking loose the big nut can be difficult, just do like the man says and whack the breaker bar (I used a small sledge hammer) and it will give.

- once you get the clutch pack in hand, now it is fun time. The little cup that secures the C-clip is delicate, do not try to push down on it. I finally used a clamp from an old VTX windshield... it could be opened up to the right diameter to just be outside of the 'cup' while it offered an opening to eyeball what I was doing on the C-clip. This is similar to a fork seal driver (search for this on ebay)PM me I have photos. I then used a 6in C-clamp with a metal bar across the top of the windshield clamp and a metal plate on the opposite side of the clutch pack. Spring will move easily, but if your fixture is too close to the cup, you may have to push it down a bit to get the space to remove the C-clip. Big hint here; use a good set of C-clip removers... junk ones will just drive you crazy.

- once done replacing clutch plates, take your sweet time and line those boys up CAREFULLY. You probably want to reassemble the clutch pack, then depress the spring to allow you to wiggle the friction plates around. If you do it right, the clutch pack will slide back with only minor bumping/wiggling into place. Probably by the time you get to the last two friction plates it will be time to get a dowel to tap the outer plate tabs to get them to line up. If you are lucky the clutch pack will slide in smooth.... probably you will end up like me tightening up the center nut and putting pressure on the pack to "get in there" while wiggling/tapping/begging it to slide in. When the final plate lines up it will slide the last inch and you will be relieved...trust me.

I spent a total of about 10 hrs doing the job over 3 days. I also spent about 10 hrs thinking about how to accomplish some of the harder jobs. Bottom line; this is not a job for the feint hearted, but if you like a challenge this one will make you proud when completed.

Helpful Hint; while you have it in hand, make sure to disassemble the slave cylinder and clean out behind the seal... it needs it, trust me.

I have owned more bikes than shoes....
\'75 GL1000 -Antares Red
\'76 GL1000LTD
\'76 CB750F
.....with the throttle screwed on there is only the barest margin, and no room at all for mistakes... that\'s when the strange music starts HS Thompson
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post #30 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-24-2012, 05:47 PM
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CrystalPistol likes this.

I have owned more bikes than shoes....
\'75 GL1000 -Antares Red
\'76 GL1000LTD
\'76 CB750F
.....with the throttle screwed on there is only the barest margin, and no room at all for mistakes... that\'s when the strange music starts HS Thompson
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