UPDATED INFO How I did it - Poorboy Conversion for 82 GL1100 - Page 4 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #31 of 285 (permalink) Old 12-21-2011, 12:14 AM
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Todd,....could you tell us how much amps your putting out,.......MERRY CHRISTMASBob
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post #32 of 285 (permalink) Old 12-21-2011, 12:50 AM Thread Starter
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The alternator I used is 55amps, thats the same as750 watts or 2 1/2 times the stock output. More power than I have been able to use up so far.



The Alternator taken from the car in the wrecking yard issmaller than the one you will get from the auto parts store. The one from the store will fit the car but it is bigger. If the one you choose doesnt have a removable rear foot then it isnt the one I used.



I will do an update on the how to in the new year with some better pics and maybe even tell you about some of the other mods I have done for my comfort or convienience.



Ride safe, Todd
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post #33 of 285 (permalink) Old 12-21-2011, 01:20 AM Thread Starter
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littlebeaver wrote:
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I have a question about the spacer at the crank, tell me more about where you got that from, I'm leaning more and more towards this conversion I declare...
Hi there Martin,

the spacer on the crank I made myself to get me by until my machinist could fit me in. I made it from a piece of 1" thick aluminum plate using my drill press, a belt sander and a few other "Mac Gyver" tricks. It is straight and true but not the final version.



I plan on using the drawing to have one turned on the lathe. The pulley drawing came from Joe Wiggins, my apologies for not giving credit when I wrote this article in the first place. I didnt know who made the drawing at the time, it was dan filipiwho set me straight on where it came from. thanx Dan and sorry it took this long to give credit where credit is due
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post #34 of 285 (permalink) Old 12-21-2011, 10:55 PM
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well I thank you for showing your work here, I have an 81 model and its probably going to get this mod. next year some time.

1981 Honda Goldwing 1100 Interstate
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post #35 of 285 (permalink) Old 12-22-2011, 03:01 AM
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You should sale a kit

82 gl 1100 Ok not naked anymore. Have pics, Now working on paint.


My name is Wayne
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post #36 of 285 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 09:07 AM
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BUMP!!
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post #37 of 285 (permalink) Old 02-19-2012, 04:52 PM
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badorderbob
Is that like Wrong way Ron?

Stu
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John 14:6 Psalm 118:19-29
CMA Wings of Eagles-Escondido, Patriot Guard Ryder
+2008 Cabernet Red ABS/Airbag bought 6/2013 @16,000
+1983 ASPENCADE Barn find @36,000 to be sold
+1976 CB750K6 @25,000 was Dad's
Previous bikes
-1999 GL1500 ASPENCADE Red Sold barn find restored
-1999 GL1500 SE(@57k)(totaled by cagger @105,000) Feb 2013
-76 CB750K Red(new) sold @ 45k
-75 CB750K Blue(new) 9,000 mi Before cousin totaled it.
74 CB450 Burnt Orange(new) 9,000 miles sold
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post #38 of 285 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 01:16 AM Thread Starter
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[align=center]UPDATE after two years in use[/align]

[align=center][/align]

[align=center][/align]
I have recieved a number of requests for pictures and/or clarification on some of the details of my version of this conversion. I have been using this set up for two full riding seasons,well over 30,000 miles virtually trouble free. The only thing I have had to do was tension the belt after it stretched a bit in the begining and I changed the blade type fuse for a 50amp circuit breaker.



When I pull the trailer for camping there is a full sized deep cycle battery in there, I use it to power various items around camp like area lights ,pump for the air mattress, 12volt water pump,and 12volt cooler among other items for my comfort.



In the morning when I hit the road again the alternator recharges the deep cycle battery as I head down the highway. This is why I put the 50 amp circuit breaker in the charge line instead of the blade type fuse, better connection and if it does "blow" because of load demand to recharge the big battery it will just reset it self and continue charging as needed ( i saw it do this once in two years, it was a long night in camp). The rest of the bike is still protected by a 30 amp blade fuse at the starter solinoid (sp)





Here are a few pics with a brief description , hope this answers some of the questions.




This pic shows just how much /how little of the alternator shows after the lower fairing is reassembled.Those three holes in the tin lower cowl are mount holes for my cup holder.

The upper fairing is off for other work I am doing right now.






same description ,different angle (sorry ,turn head sideways)






Better pic of how the new motor/alternator mount fits together






Mount and tin heat shield together prior to installation






Heat shield and mounts bolted up (turn your head sideways)








Alternator mounted showing tensioner adjustment at top of pic.






details of my crank pulley, version 2 will have a 3 inch pulley to help with the idle speed charging, Why 3 inch and not 4 inch? In an effort to keep the rad in as close as possible the clearance of my crank pulley to the timing cover is very tight as seen below.................. (again turn head sideways)






From crank bolt center to the edge of thehead of this bolt is just over 3inches

As you can see if I use a 4 inch pulley it will interfere with the inner bolt holding the timing cover on, unless you either omit this bolt or modify it or make room behind the larger pulley. I prefer to use a 3 inch pulley ,that way I can still use all the timing cover bolts and dont have to remove the new crank pulley to service/change the timing belts.

With the 2inch pulley or 1:1 ratio it charges just above idle (1300+ rpm) I believe that the new 1.5:1 ratio will allow it to charge at idle. (950rpmx1.5=1425rpm)












This is what the alternator from the 1988 Pontiac Firefly 1.0liter turbo looked like when I pulled it from the car,except it wasnt clean and it wasnt painted black. See the unpainted rear foot? Its just stamped steel and it unbolts like this..............






This way there is no cutting and grinding needed. I have tried to get a new one from the auto parts store with no luck. The one they all (Napa, Lordco and Canadian Tire, hey its a small town) put on the counter looks just like the one for the Geo Metro,which is just a little bigger and has the rear foot molded in the the rest of the body. Funny little side note, I once pulled a guy over that was driving a Sprint/Firefly just so I could look under his hood at his alternator to make sure the one I got wasnt just grafted in there . He was a little surprised at my request but let me look any way. sure enough it was the same alternator that I pulled from the wrecking yard. Of course I had to explain why I wanted to look at his "hotrod" engine. They are out there you just have to dig a little.



I suppose you could use whatever alternator you want , but the measurements I have provided work for this alternator (may work for others, I dont know)



I hope this clears up any grey areas, if you need more info or pics just PM me. I am on line most every evening and I always check in on this site.



Ride safe,Todd
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post #39 of 285 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 07:36 AM
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thanks for the up date. looks like a good winter thing. heated gear , lights , and so forth.

1979 gl1000 dressed --back to naked
1980 gl1100 interstate --side lined
1983 gl1100 interstate the fastest color--RED
retired trucker---going to see it again ----on 2 wheels---love it--love it

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post #40 of 285 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 07:36 AM
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Thanks Todd. That helps alot.

Stu
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John 14:6 Psalm 118:19-29
CMA Wings of Eagles-Escondido, Patriot Guard Ryder
+2008 Cabernet Red ABS/Airbag bought 6/2013 @16,000
+1983 ASPENCADE Barn find @36,000 to be sold
+1976 CB750K6 @25,000 was Dad's
Previous bikes
-1999 GL1500 ASPENCADE Red Sold barn find restored
-1999 GL1500 SE(@57k)(totaled by cagger @105,000) Feb 2013
-76 CB750K Red(new) sold @ 45k
-75 CB750K Blue(new) 9,000 mi Before cousin totaled it.
74 CB450 Burnt Orange(new) 9,000 miles sold
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