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-   -   GL1200 Stator Replacement video (https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/10-reference-faq-forum/373213-gl1200-stator-replacement-video.html)

wingnut 07-26-2011 02:18 PM

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There will be an article with pictures to follow later this week.

[flash=560,349]http://www.youtube.com/v/yftM2G8hvy4[/flash]




Anim8or Earl 07-27-2011 10:31 AM

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Good work, thanks.

wingnut 08-02-2011 03:45 PM

imported post
 
This page shows me replacing a burnt out stator on a Honda GL1200 Goldwing. The engine first has to be removed from the frame first (article and video HERE), this page shows the stator swap out once the engine has been removed from the Goldwing. No special tools are needed for this job and the procedure for stator replacement on a GL1200 is very similar for the GL1100 and GL1000. I made a video clip of the GL1200 stator being replaced, it is at the end of the page.
Click the thumbnails for a bigger image.

Rear view of the Honda GL1200 Goldwing engine. You can tell this is a 1984 GL1200 engine because the pulse generators are at the back of the engine. Honda put them on the front of all GL1200 Goldwings (and the GL1500) under the timing belt covers from 1985. That means the Goldwing engine doesn't have to be removed on 1985 and later models for pulse generator replacement. Remove the pulse generator cover, the 10mm bolt holding the cam and remove the cam. When refitting the cam later, make sure to turn it so it engages properly, before refitting the bolt.


https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...gine_small.jpg https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg
https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg


Removing the rear engine cover bolts, 8mm and 10mm. Some of them also go down through the clutch cover, so I removed that too seeing as the gasket seal is probably broken once those bolts are out.


https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg


The clutch slave cylinder is held on with three 8mm bolts. Remove the slave cylinder and the clutch pushrod. The pushrod presses against the clutch plate when you squeeze the clutch lever. Note the right way up for the pushrod. I don't think it is possible to fit it the wrong way up. Neat trick if you can manage to do that. https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...orout/ROFL.gif


https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg
https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg


Clutch cover off, followed by the rear engine cover. The rear cover on Goldwing engines is usually stuck on the gasket, a few taps from the wooden handle of a hammer will break the seal. When you lift the cover, watch out for the dowels so they don't fall into the engine and get lost. The output shaft may come out with the cover, if it does just put it back in place.


https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg


A look at the old and new stators. The owner of this Goldwing gave me an aftermarket Chinese stator to fit. Surprisingly it worked! I hope it lasts.


https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg


Remove the circlip and push the stator plug in.


https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg


I have replaced a lot of Goldwing stators and always had to attack the screws with an impact driver.


https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg


The old Goldwing stator removed. Looking at the remains, you can clearly see the old caked up oil. I believe that regular oil changes can extend stator life.


https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg


These shots are just to show how the starter motor is connected to the engine.


https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg


With the stator out of the rear cover, clean up any dirt inside. Scrape off the old gasket about now.


https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg


Fitting the new stator to the cover. Whoops I missed a bit of the old gasket. https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...t/banghead.gif I will get to that shortly.


https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg
https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...clip_small.jpg


A new gasket fitted to the cover. I also used some sealant. Probably not entirely necessary, but I really don't want to be pulling the engine out of this GL1200 again for want of 50 cents worth of sealant. Tap the cover down onto the dowels. You didn't lose the dowels now did you?


https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg


Note the way the clutch cover fits, the way the arrow points.


https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg


Some things to note when refitting the GL1200 engine. These are also mentioned in the engine removal article HERE.

The front sub-frame/mount that the plate sits over should have the deep end of the welded bush to the front.


https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg


Some grease on the manifold o-rings keeps them in the manifold grooves while you position the manifolds and bolt them up.


https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg
https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg


When refilling the radiator after the initial engine startup, don't forget to burp any air out of the radiator by blipping the throttle a few times.


https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg https://www.goldwingfacts.com/images/...1200_small.jpg


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