Lowering the GL1000 - Page 4 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #31 of 187 (permalink) Old 11-24-2011, 11:19 AM
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The design looks really really great & fits the frame smoothly.
But one thing confuses me
The bars coming from the rear axle are welded to the frame.
Wouldn't that make the rear end ridged?
Or worst yet brake off on a good bump due to the angle of them.
If so, why are you mounting shocks?

"otherwise I guess I am still missing the point."
What point are you missing, I don't see any.


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1st GoldWing GL1100 Interstate
1989 GL1500/6 (NEW)Still have runs GREAT
Now:1993 Gl1500SE Future Trike

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post #32 of 187 (permalink) Old 11-25-2011, 05:58 AM
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RB pointed out some risks by linking to a NGW post, which is actually at http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtop...=16&t=8517and zimco pointed out that this is not his first rodeo



Personally I think asking questions/defining risks is a good idea but if I were RB I would have put some more text arroundthe linkand possibly read the thread again as zimco strikes me as the type to measure ten times and cut once.



Having said all that, I think it's just a good idea to be aware of any risks when working on any bike. Ironically enough I am at the level where I will do grunt work like swapping an engine in 1975 by myself (with a cheap floor jack no less) but other stuff like timing belts, brakes, etc. scare me





Got my 1985 GL1200A on March 16th, 2010 and I love it.
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post #33 of 187 (permalink) Old 11-25-2011, 06:20 AM
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nofixedaddress wrote:
Quote:
RB pointed out some risks by linking to a NGW post, which is actually at http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtop...=16&t=8517and zimco pointed out that this is not his first rodeo
Personally I think asking questions/defining risks is a good idea but if I were RB I would have put some more text arroundthe linkand possibly read the thread again as zimco strikes me as the type to measure ten times and cut once.
Having said all that, I think it's just a good idea to be aware of any risks when working on any bike. Ironically enough I am at the level where I will do grunt work like swapping an engine in 1975 by myself (with a cheap floor jack no less) but other stuff like timing belts, brakes, etc. scare me
I agree " zimco strikes me as the type to measure ten times and cut once."
RB may have been referring to this link, http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=37811
OK i think I understand the point
However I check these links because there may be some info or ideas I can steal.
And I like looking at pictures more them words.
Like the fiber glass tail the guy made for is GL1100.
I don't have a GL1100, got a few ideas on maybe making another part in the future.
I was a mech. for over 35 years & never worked on my bike, let the dealer deal with it, I RIDE!
But because of this forum & a few links to others, I went & built 2 GL1500 Trike with molding a fiberglass body & all.
I Thank everyone on these forum giving the info & push to do it.
I would never go on a forum as I didn't understand them & can only type with 2 fingers & spelling sucks.
But thanks to the newer computers & spell checker I braved it.
At 61 I'm am a hobbyist & enjoy trying anything once & fix it twice, as you can see from posts.
3nd time I give up & start over.
Learn from my mistake hopefully.

USMC, Vietnam Combat Vet. 69-70,
GWRRA 78111
PGR 255645
1st Bike Honda Dream 150 Dream Bought in \'68
1st GoldWing GL1100 Interstate
1989 GL1500/6 (NEW)Still have runs GREAT
Now:1993 Gl1500SE Future Trike

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post #34 of 187 (permalink) Old 11-25-2011, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
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Skip,

You made a great point and I may have confused you with my terminology, this is going to be a hardtail.
when I talk about the shock mounts I am really referring to where the shocks used to mount on the swing arm.

I referred to them as shock mounts because I don't know what else to call them, maybe I should say rear swing arm mounts.

Although the swing arm won't swing anymore either.

I am using the mounts because there may be a need in the future to service the drive shaft and I want to be able to remove the swing arm.

Of course "normal" choppers are chain drive and all of this is not necessary, but that makes the job interesting.

I also do usually measure 10 times but that is because I keep forgetting the dimensions and have to measure the piece again. Even then I don't always get it right, but I am not afraid to tear it all out and start over again.

I am always learning, and I don't consider myself an expert on anything.

I know I will make more mistakes in the future, I just hope I see them and get them fixed.

If you see any please let me know.



1967-69 Vietnam Vet
Life Member DAV
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1996 GL1500 SE Trike
1980 GL1100 Naked and Low
(1) 1975 GL1000 (being lowered)
(5) 1975 - 79 GL1000 Parts bikes

"Never try to teach a pig to sing
It wastes your time and it annoys the pig."

"You can also follow me on my blog Zimco\'s Garage"


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post #35 of 187 (permalink) Old 11-25-2011, 09:18 AM
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"I also do usually measure 10 times but that is because I keep forgetting the dimensions and have to measure the piece again."
WELCOME to the CRS club. ("Can't Remember Sh#t")

I'm working in the Garage & need something in the basement I know is there.
So I walk over to the basement which is about 20' away, open the door.
Then I have to try & remember why I came to the basement & what I needed!
So I go back out to garage & try to figure what I was doing that I had get from the basement.
Isn't fun getting smarter as we get older.
That's why I keep coming back & edit my post also.

By the way this setup looks a lot better then the 1st try.
Third times a charm!

Sit back & think about longer then to build it.



USMC, Vietnam Combat Vet. 69-70,
GWRRA 78111
PGR 255645
1st Bike Honda Dream 150 Dream Bought in \'68
1st GoldWing GL1100 Interstate
1989 GL1500/6 (NEW)Still have runs GREAT
Now:1993 Gl1500SE Future Trike

To many projects to finish
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post #36 of 187 (permalink) Old 11-25-2011, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
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Skip,

I just realized that I didn't answer all your questions.

The arms you see in the pictures are also going to be supported by a set of lower arms that will come from where the frame was cut at the bottom.

Also there will be two more tubes that will come off the top portion of the frame where I have ground off the original bars.

The top tubes will act as the seat & fender mounts also.

After my dizzy spells I had 2 teeth removed which kept me out of the garage, I am finally getting back into the swing of things today.

I hope to clarify things as I go along, right now I am still welding and grinding the two swing arm mounts so they look right. I can't weld them on the frame until I get the lower bars bent so everything fits right.

Once all the bars are in, the corners will have gussets, this I hope will make the bike stronger than the original.

I am hoping this design is much better than the original design that I started with, and had to remove.

Thanks for your interest, it keeps me going and makes me want to build every piece the best I can.

Thanks again everyone for your interest.

1967-69 Vietnam Vet
Life Member DAV
Patriot Guard Rider

1996 GL1500 SE Trike
1980 GL1100 Naked and Low
(1) 1975 GL1000 (being lowered)
(5) 1975 - 79 GL1000 Parts bikes

"Never try to teach a pig to sing
It wastes your time and it annoys the pig."

"You can also follow me on my blog Zimco\'s Garage"


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post #37 of 187 (permalink) Old 11-25-2011, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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It was so good to get out in the garage today.



I filled and ground down the middle tube for the right side.



Then I tacked the tube in using a long bolt with the head cut off and a nut welded so I could get the bolt angle at 90 degrees.



I then tacked the lower tube in.

there is one more tube to go in above the middle tube but that will have to wait until I get the left side filled and ground, and maybe until I get the gas tank set up installed and the seat location where I want it.

1967-69 Vietnam Vet
Life Member DAV
Patriot Guard Rider

1996 GL1500 SE Trike
1980 GL1100 Naked and Low
(1) 1975 GL1000 (being lowered)
(5) 1975 - 79 GL1000 Parts bikes

"Never try to teach a pig to sing
It wastes your time and it annoys the pig."

"You can also follow me on my blog Zimco\'s Garage"


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post #38 of 187 (permalink) Old 11-26-2011, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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Saturday turned out to be a productive day.



I ground the middle left swing arm mount and tacked it in.



I then bent the Lower tube for the left side fitted it and tacked it also.



I used the magnetic levels to check that the frame was level and that the bars were also level.

The side tubes also matched the angles from left to right, so I figure all is pretty square.
Just Like me.





I started removing the original support tubes from where the top shelter used to be.
One thing I have noticed is that Honda doesn't use gussets at the corners but doubles up on the tubes inside at the ends. This makes removing the tubes difficult, because both tubes are welded to the frame.



When I grind I have to be careful not to cut into the frame tube but remove all of the extra welds.



This is the rough grinding on the frame right side shelter tubes.



1967-69 Vietnam Vet
Life Member DAV
Patriot Guard Rider

1996 GL1500 SE Trike
1980 GL1100 Naked and Low
(1) 1975 GL1000 (being lowered)
(5) 1975 - 79 GL1000 Parts bikes

"Never try to teach a pig to sing
It wastes your time and it annoys the pig."

"You can also follow me on my blog Zimco\'s Garage"


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post #39 of 187 (permalink) Old 11-26-2011, 07:39 PM
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I see , lots of progress . With the faux tank frame cut off now , will you extend the "backbone " down to the point your Inclinometer is mounted or go all the way to your new crossmember where the upper swingarm tubes attach ? ITs looking good so far .

Mike
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post #40 of 187 (permalink) Old 11-27-2011, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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Onawingandaprayer,

Yes - - - - Just kidding.

I will extend the center tube (back bone) but to where I don't know yet.

I may have to put in some new cross members, rather than use the existing ones.

Some of the variables that have come up in my mind are where and what is going to be used as an air filter. I would prefer to use the stock filter housing, but it may be to tall.

Also the angle of the fuel tank and which tank.
I have two tanks in my stock, this bike is low budget, I am trying to use things I have or that I can make.

I think I have more than enough room to place the electrics in the rear on brackets that I can make.

Right now the tank and seat placement are top priority.

I have another problem I have been mulling around in my mind and maybe some of the members can help with it.

I would like to take about 2 inches off the top of the front fork tubes, lowering the bike down in front.

This will I think change the steering geometry, but I don't know how much. I have been trying to read up on the subject again, but so far it is not sinking in as easy as in past years.

I can achieve the height I want by simply moving the tubes up in the triple trees. Once I see what I want to accomplish I will know how much I want to cut off the tubes.

I have been reading about the rake and trail and how it affects the steering, But it has been so long since I built the Harley chopper with the springer and also a Honda with an extended front end that I have forgotten so much.

I do prefer the heavier front end where the bike tends to go straight at speed, but with the bike being a heavy one to start with I may want to keep the steering feeling like the stock steering.

In a nutshell what happens if I take lets say 2 inches off the front tubes, as far as wobble?

Do I need to slightly rake the neck and leave the tubes, I don't want to touch the neck if I don't have to?

I know how to measure the rake and trail and I guess I will have to do that, after I move the tubes up then go from there.

Help is always appreciated.



1967-69 Vietnam Vet
Life Member DAV
Patriot Guard Rider

1996 GL1500 SE Trike
1980 GL1100 Naked and Low
(1) 1975 GL1000 (being lowered)
(5) 1975 - 79 GL1000 Parts bikes

"Never try to teach a pig to sing
It wastes your time and it annoys the pig."

"You can also follow me on my blog Zimco\'s Garage"


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