GL1500 fuel pump replacement with - Napa P72190 pump is easy fix - Page 6 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #51 of 65 (permalink) Old 07-21-2015, 10:07 AM
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Location: Cedar Mountain, NC
Model: 98 GL1500SE - "Black Dog"
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Air Hose??

I've decided to carry a replacement pump with me. I understand the replacement instructions, but I'm curious about the "air hose" that no one seems to be worried about not replacing.

Where does that fitting inside the tank lead to? It's not a tank vent. So where does it go?
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post #52 of 65 (permalink) Old 12-24-2015, 08:45 PM
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Location: Monroe, Louisiana
Year: 1997
Make: Honda
Model: GL 1500 SE
Posts: 10
Just an after action report.
My 97 SE was hesitating on acceleration and recently began trying to quit at
highway speed.
Using this thread, I replaced my fuel pump with the....
Carter pump P72190 this afternoon.
Purchased on Amazon for $41.
Some new fuel line, a couple of clamps and a 90 degree brass elbow cost me another
$25.
I took time to clean up all the electrical connectors, nuts etc.
The rubber gasket looked perfectly fine so I re-used it.
Everything went smooth until I needed to determine which of the leads (cut from the stock pump)
was positive and which was negative. The Carter pump has a + & - for the leads.
(if that was covered earlier I missed it)
So I hooked it all up outside the tank and turned on the key and tried my best to determine +- voltage
but was unsuccessful using normal testing techniques. Yes I did hit the starter.
Each wire appeared to supply current when one probe was on ground. Reverse the probes and the current reversed
on both.
So I just touched the leads to the pump and it appeared to kick in so I hooked it up what way and
put it all back together.

Of course it was not correct so I had to drain the tank again and reverse the leads and everything worked
perfectly. Test ride was perfect and it's running with much quicker throttle response and the hesitation
is gone. I have not had it on the highway yet.
(I had already replaced the coolant temp probe suggested on another thread which corrected a perpetual rich
issue.)
Now, it's getting a petcock rebuild whether it needs it or not.
Slowly but surely I am getting her road ready.
I've already done the fuel and air filters.
I plan on replacing the timing belts, radiator hoses and alternator before spring.
MikeB
97SE
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post #53 of 65 (permalink) Old 12-24-2015, 09:10 PM
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wonderful report Mike,

glad your new acquisition is going to be road worthy come spring.

I don't recall if anyone mentioned the wiring for the Carter pump. I do remember that it has separate leads.... IIRC, one was red, the other white?
or maybe it was Black and White.
Black is positive in the car world, and white is negative

.

~ John


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post #54 of 65 (permalink) Old 12-26-2015, 03:43 PM
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Year: 1997
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Model: GL 1500 SE
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Hey AZ,
There was a black and blue wire to the the stock pump. I know black is "hot" in house wiring so I went with that and it turned out to bewrong. The Pump I got only had screw terminals with a nut so I had to crimp my own connectors onto the wire ends. The old pump was factory wired so it had no markings. I was afraid to put 12 volts to it since I didn't know if I might damage it. In retrospect I should
have tested it in a bucket prior to reinstalling everything. It would have saved me 20 minutes or draining the fuel again and pulling it back out. I have attached some pics or the pump and the coolant temperature probe I replaced just in case it will help someone.
MikeB
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post #55 of 65 (permalink) Old 12-26-2015, 05:17 PM
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yeah, reverse voltage on a DC motor will not hurt it, and with the pump sitting in a small container of fuel, you would have known within 2 seconds which wire is for +12

I am always trying to guess what a "black wire" is.... sometimes it is ground which is usually the case on DC systems.

other times, it is the HOT wire in A/C systems... which I always thought was a stupid thing to do... why in the hell didn't NEMA fix that back in the dark ages???

In my house, the electric is all black, every single strand if it is not part of a piece of Romex. the electrician was an idiot... he pulled in a circuit, hooked it up, and moved on.... to hell with documentation or colored tape.

I have spent days of tracing out the wiring in my house, and using a Tapewriter to label the switches. and I still have more than half of them to go.

24 circuits, all black, no labels.

~ John


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post #56 of 65 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 09:09 AM
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This replacement pump appears to be the answer. I am wondering what is the most miles someone has put on since changing to the carter pump? I see the thread is a bit old but hopefully someone will see and reply as my pump is no longer pumping gas
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post #57 of 65 (permalink) Old 05-31-2017, 01:39 PM
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For starters, I just want to thank everyone for their suggestions/issues on replacing the fuel pump. First issue I had was that I couldn't find the replacement fuel pump suggested, however, I found one from O'Reilly Auto Parts with the same specs. It's the Import Direct E16061 (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...keyword=e16061), and the strainer I used is a Delphi S13011(total cost $61.98 + tax). The pump didn't have clearly marked terminals, so I did a "bucket test" to determine polarity. (BTW, in DC voltage, black is ground(-), colors are positive(+)). While I had the bracket out, I decided to test the fuel level sensor(it was bad as well). Used the 99 Civic brake lever sensor for that too(about $3 at salvage yard)! Looks like I will get the fuel light at around 1.25 gallons. I've only run one tank through (but not a continuous run), though that will change shortly.
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post #58 of 65 (permalink) Old 05-31-2017, 03:00 PM
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while you are good at getting the fuel pump out of the tank,

why not calibrate the Fuel Gauge?

empty the tank of fuel, then fill it with exactly 3.0 gallons of fuel...
turn the key on and wait for the gauge to settle, and it will NOT be at 1/2 tank

reach inside the tank with you right hand to the upper left portion of the tank,
grasp the float arm and raise or lower it to make the gauge move to the 1/2 tank mark.

bend the float arm so that it stays there when you release the float.

you will be glad you did, because the LAST 3 gallons of fuel will be very easy to view.
When the tank is empty, the gauge will be at the very bottom red line.

the Low Fuel light should come on when the gauge is at the 1/8 tank level or there abouts.

~ John


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post #59 of 65 (permalink) Old 05-31-2017, 09:19 PM
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Thanks for the tip! Funny thing about my gauge, with a full tank, it's pegged to full, but when it has just one gallon(measured amount while on the center stand), it's well into the red zone. So, there must be another way to calibrate the float sensor. I added about a 1/4 gallon, and the fuel light went off. I think when I've run this tank out, I'll try to adjust the float one way or another. While I don't like the thought of bending the arm, it may be the only way I can fix it.
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post #60 of 65 (permalink) Old 05-31-2017, 09:57 PM
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The float is attached to a variable resistor. The fuel tank is shaped a lot like a pear.
You can't hurt anything by bending the float arm. And it don't take very much of a bend.
The low fuel sensor is fixed at the 1 gallon level, you can't move it.
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