Plastic Carb Button Repair - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-26-2014, 01:07 PM
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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-26-2014, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronko37 View Post
Well day 2 went well until I destroyed my cap. I got a little carried away with the dead blow seating the new button into the cap.
You've got a lathe "well several" so why not just make a fixture to press the button in instead of using the BFH.

Advise given here is free and comes with no warranty "Caveat emptor"

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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-27-2014, 10:49 AM
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That was my first thought: thread the cap so the expansion won't burp the plug out.
An extension of this could be to thread the outside and make it a cap.
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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-27-2014, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the thoughts guys. Gettin some good discussion goin now. I dont think there is quite enough room for cutting threads. The total depth of the bore is only about .115". The you put a .025" gasket on top of that. Couple that with it being internal threads to a shoulder, i dont see that happening.

As far as pressing the button in place, that was my fault. Two light taps and it sat right in place. I wanted to make sure and began beating the hell out if the poor thing. Shoulda never happened. Good call AZ on the solder. I wasnt sure if it would stick or not. Im gonna try another attempt this week. Use a .002" press fit and some good Krazy glue. I'll keep you posted.

In the meantime i was able to take one of my spare cv slide sets and get it on my bike to replace a broken button set. Was glad i was able to get it done without pulling the carb rack again.

If you go fast enough your never in one spot long enough to get hurt
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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-29-2014, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
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Well, I have the new button installed and I did it without destroying the cap this time, lol. Now I just need to to the final machining on the top of it to smooth it all in. I'll keep you posted and take some pictures of the final result.

If you go fast enough your never in one spot long enough to get hurt
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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-29-2014, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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Success!

I got the button made from aluminum installed and machined. I did not do any fancy work, just enough to creat the correct vacuum and make the top look good. The counterbore for the vaccume goes beyond the top of the cap so it is necessary to have the boss on top that you see to accomodate the vacuum area. I put a small 45 degree chamfer on it to dress it nicely and viola. Here are some pictures of the final result. Now I just need to find a new cap to replace the one I smashed and complete my spare carb rack.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Carb Button Repair 001.jpg (82.2 KB, 77 views)
File Type: jpg Carb Button Repair 002.jpg (68.3 KB, 76 views)
File Type: jpg Carb Button Repair 003.jpg (150.9 KB, 80 views)

If you go fast enough your never in one spot long enough to get hurt
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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-29-2014, 04:33 PM
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Man, that really looks good! Must be nice to have all those toys to play with.

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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-30-2014, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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Must be nice to have all those toys to play with.

With these old bikes, I don't know what I would do without my machine knowledge and access to a shop to make stuff. I made new holders for my front turn signals as well so they would thread into the headlight ears. The bike had none because there was a fairing on it that we took off. I don't dig the 70s vetter fairings at all. Not my bag.

Thanks for the reply!

If you go fast enough your never in one spot long enough to get hurt
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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-02-2014, 09:55 AM
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Couldn't you have

Sealed off the bottom with paraffin (like my mom used on top of jelly) and then filled the remaing void from the top with a good steel filled epoxy (like JB Weld)?
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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-04-2014, 07:36 PM
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Nice work.

Off and on for a few years I have been thinking of a way to fix these, but in a way that would accomplish two things: 1) Be a way so that someone could buy a kit and do it themselves at home with tools they might already have (like Randakk's great float pin kit). 2) Appear to be factory original, at least with a normal glance.



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