Won't start....... Ahhhh....... GL1500, it is fixed now. Bad Transistor in ECU - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 46 (permalink) Old 07-02-2015, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by chris301up View Post
I removed the air cleaner assembly from my GW 1500 SE and, although it started briefly whilst removed, it cut out and now won't restart.

Plenty of fuel in tank and battery fully charged but won't have it.

It seems as though fuel is not getting to carbs. Have removed fuel lines and sucked through and they seam fine?

Am I missing something??
Did it start and run before you started down this path outlined in this thread?

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post #12 of 46 (permalink) Old 07-02-2015, 06:28 AM
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I have run some basic checks and can confirm there isn't any power (either when running or on start up) at the BLK/BLU wire to fuel pump. Also, there isn't an in-line capacitor fitted to my machine as far as I can see.

Seems to be a common problem with these machines?

Could the ECU be toast ?
It could be there is no capacitor if yours is a UK model, I have no info other than US models so there may be other things that are also different. Other than checking for connections you may have disturbed and with the info I have it does point to the ECU.

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post #13 of 46 (permalink) Old 07-02-2015, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
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Did it start and run before you started down this path outlined in this thread?
Yes. It started and ran absolutely fine.

Yes. I believe UK models, without the CB radio, do not have an in-line capacitor fitted.

I have found what I think may be a fix for the ECU, if it's found to be at fault?
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post #14 of 46 (permalink) Old 07-02-2015, 01:05 PM
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I bet you have a low voltage problem at the pump. I would start the bike with the jumper wire and with the bike running check voltage at the pump. If it's less than 10 or 11 volts that is the issue. Check again for a poor connection etc. and check at the ECU for voltage in the same configuration. If it's good at the ECU but not at the pump you know it is a connection issue.
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post #15 of 46 (permalink) Old 07-02-2015, 03:34 PM
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Yes. It started and ran absolutely fine. ... etc ...

I'm betting that somewhere in moving stuff enough "pull" was exerted that a connection that was maybe not locked or marginal .... was pulled loose.

I've had it happen with other circuits and the only way to eliminate it is checking all.
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post #16 of 46 (permalink) Old 07-02-2015, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by chris301up View Post
Yes. It started and ran absolutely fine.

Yes. I believe UK models, without the CB radio, do not have an in-line capacitor fitted.

I have found what I think may be a fix for the ECU, if it's found to be at fault?
Thanks, I saved that for future reference.

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post #17 of 46 (permalink) Old 07-02-2015, 06:56 PM
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To go out in left field with this. Could something have happen to the bank angle switch and it is not letting the pump turn on? I know that's not where you were working but......
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post #18 of 46 (permalink) Old 07-02-2015, 06:59 PM
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As mentioned but no reply that I see(may have missed when scrolling through?). Have you checked all fuses?
Can't remember right off if there are any connectors that the airbox may hit or have to unplug.
There is a ground that goes under the radio. Not sure if that is just for radio or not? There are several connectors on left side when you remove the left fairing?
I don't have wiring diagram in front of me to see what may cause the fuel pump not to work.
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post #19 of 46 (permalink) Old 07-02-2015, 11:27 PM
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Take the fuel petcock off the gas tank and see if fuel flows freely.\
Not sure on Goldwings but on all my past bikes fuel pours out when pet **** removed as yu would expect on a Goldwing.

Not much info in manual regarding fuel tank, just removal or pinched breather at te gas cap.

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post #20 of 46 (permalink) Old 07-03-2015, 03:14 AM Thread Starter
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Just an update.

Firstly, to answer a few questions. There isn't any fuses or relays controlling the fuel pump on later 1500 models. Have by-passed the Petcock valve and fuel flows freely, either when sucked or using the jumper wire

Secondly, have started the bike using the jumper wire, removed it, then tested the voltage of the BLU/BLK wire at the ECU = Zero volts. Took readings at various points along this wire and nothing.

Re-connected the jumper wire and got battery voltage at the ECU. This, in my opinion, indicates the fault is within the ECU module?

Have ordered a replacement transistor and will install this and see what happens. Have nothing to loose at this stage so may as well give it a go!
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