Gl1500 carb rebuild - Page 6 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #51 of 161 (permalink) Old 02-21-2016, 12:47 PM
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Carb work

I too use vinegar as it is a mild acid, but I follow it up with a baking soda solution as a neutralizer. Being that this bike is 28 years old, I think that you should be prepared to replace alot of rubber components. Unless the slides have been replaced, I'd "almost" bet you that they will have cracks in the diaphragms. Also be sure to pull up the rubber boot and inspect the formed rubber hoses coming off both the front and rear of the intake manifolds. Check those hoses at their bends for soft spots, they'll suck holes in them at that point. The other items that I'd automatically change if they haven't been would be the insulators. All of these rubber items get hard and brittle over time and won't seal very well at all, causing vacuum leaks and lean running conditions. The last thing that you want is to have to pull the carbs a second time, so be through and do it right the first time. Plus you can't adjust the jets or sync. the carbs if the system is not sealed tight'
If the recall has been done, just a good "through" cleaning and rebuilding with new wear items should do the trick.
Look at Partzilla's website under your year and model, then look under "cylinder head" to find the hoses etc... Good Luck!

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post #52 of 161 (permalink) Old 02-21-2016, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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Insulators on the carbs to intake manifold were nearly rock hard. Replacements already here. The diaphragms were perfect.
The the accelerator pump was not squirting gas after noticing it while idling and giving it throttle. None of the other hoses are brittle. In the past the autopetcock has been troublesome even after a rebuild. I bypassed it to determine if that was the problem. Indeed it was back then as the fuel starvation from idle was eliminated. The left carb had some trash in the slow speed jet and the main jet.
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post #53 of 161 (permalink) Old 02-21-2016, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXRLGL1500 View Post
The the accelerator pump was not squirting gas after noticing it while idling and giving it throttle.
That's something you should have checked before reassembly
http://www.randakksblog.com/honda-gl...-pump-details/
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post #54 of 161 (permalink) Old 02-21-2016, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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Spiralout:
THANKS for the heads up on that. I missed it. But I can still check this. The carbs are assembled but not to the heater plate or the upper nozzle plate. In fact I just replaced the orings on the check valve. That would be an easy check especially right now.
David
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post #55 of 161 (permalink) Old 02-24-2016, 07:30 AM
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I wish I had the time and garage space to do this to my 88. Has anyone tried just richening up the pilot screws to see if it helps at all with the stumble? I know it works for my virago bike. Also, does anyone know how many turns from soft seat until the screws fall out? With my virago it's like 9. Anyway, nice work David!
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post #56 of 161 (permalink) Old 02-24-2016, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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I think if the pilot's were more accessible folks might try it. BUT you cannot even see them, I do not know how I am going to reach them to sync the carbs once its all back on. I could barely see the isolator clamp screws to get the carbs off. Maybe run a hose over the end of the pilot screws and use it to twist the pilots. ????? maybe?

However that being said mine were already a little over three turns off the seat. What I found with my 88 is without all that work was just turn the idle speed up from 600rpm (i think that is it) to 800rpm. It put engine rpm past where the stumble would occur. This never bothered me at all. In fact you never had to give it any gas to get the bike rolling from a stop. Just let the clutch out and it would start to roll.

Stopped on the carbs for the moment, the spring on the rod that pushes the accelerator pump took off to parts unknown during re-assembly. Waiting on a replacement. I have rebuilt carbs before but nothing with this much stuff hung all over the outside of them, nor in such a da$% tight limited work space.

I viewed the link spiralout sent and the accelerator pump thru the checkvalve is working. The accelerator pump nozzles are clear as I could blow air thru them. So it is now clear.
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post #57 of 161 (permalink) Old 02-24-2016, 09:44 PM
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600 RPM? Geez, no wonder you have a stumble. Look in a book and find out what Honda suggests for an idle speed.

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post #58 of 161 (permalink) Old 02-25-2016, 12:16 PM
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the 1500s should be idling at about 800 up to 1100.

Personally, I set both of my 1500s at 1100 RPM as that provides plenty of electricity for brake lights, etc... when you are stopped 'way too long'.

It also helps keep you from 'stalling the engine' if you drop the clutch too hard on take off.

~ John


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post #59 of 161 (permalink) Old 02-25-2016, 04:25 PM
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Idle speed for the 1500 is 800 RPM +/-80 to keep the computer happy and fuel mileage in check.
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post #60 of 161 (permalink) Old 02-25-2016, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriverRider View Post
Idle speed for the 1500 is 800 RPM +/-80 to keep the computer happy and fuel mileage in check.
that is too slow for me, I don't like it at 800.....
I don't much care what the book says.... I do it my way, and it works.

~ John


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