Gl1500 carb rebuild - Page 7 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #61 of 161 (permalink) Old 02-25-2016, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by DriverRider View Post
Idle speed for the 1500 is 800 RPM +/-80 to keep the computer happy and fuel mileage in check.
Fuel mileage?
..at idle?
Consumption differences of 200 rpm at idle are near irrelevant.
If they're relevant, I'd like to know how that's figured into the fuel stops..
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post #62 of 161 (permalink) Old 02-25-2016, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by CaptainMidnight85 View Post
Fuel mileage?
..at idle?
Consumption differences of 200 rpm at idle are near irrelevant.
If they're relevant, I'd like to know how that's figured into the fuel stops..

I didn't even bother to comment on the fuel mileage aspect, as it was so totally ridiculous to even consider.

.the only downside to having a higher idle, is the engine braking effect is "slightly less", and that is the ONLY downside to an idle of 1100 RPM.

I have done this on two 1500s for the exact same reason. The stock alternator keeps humming along just fine, and has never, ever, left me in the dark. The 1500 only benefits from a bigger alternator if you add on a lot of extra lighting, and I never do.

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post #63 of 161 (permalink) Old 02-25-2016, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainMidnight85 View Post
Fuel mileage?
..at idle?
Consumption differences of 200 rpm at idle are near irrelevant.
If they're relevant, I'd like to know how that's figured into the fuel stops..

I didn't even bother to comment on the fuel mileage aspect, as it was so totally ridiculous to even consider.

.the only downside to having a higher idle, is the engine braking effect is "slightly less", and that is the ONLY downside to an idle of 1100 RPM.

I have done this on two 1500s for the exact same reason. The stock alternator keeps humming along just fine, and has never, ever, left me in the dark. The 1500 only benefits from a bigger alternator if you add on a lot of extra lighting, and I never do.
True, however...

Let's input this new engine-brake infodata into DriverRider's mix and say one cancels out the other.
Less engine braking consumes less fuel while rolling versus the higher consumption of a 200 rpm increase at idle while still.
...there's always a quasi-solution to the nil aspect of things..
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post #64 of 161 (permalink) Old 02-25-2016, 06:48 PM
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Carb cleaning "mix" I used...

I know that you have already cleaned your carbs but I wanted to chime in with what I used for my cleaning. I use this for all my cleaning on the bike when it comes to grease and filth. Just don't get it on your paint. It's very strong stuff and will eat the prints right off your fingers. It does burn your skin quickly. I get this at Walmart.





I used this as a 50/50 water mixture in my parts washer. It does an incredible job. Let it soak for 15 minutes and then use a tooth brush and then rinse well with fresh water. Dry with a clean cloth, blow with air and dry cloth again.





Check out the results here... https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/...+magic+fingers


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post #65 of 161 (permalink) Old 02-25-2016, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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Guys,
This stumble was ALWAYS JUST off idle letting the clutch out. It was actually set to about 900=950. I never had to give the bike any gas to get it started rolling....really a nice feature. Probably works at 800 too if the stumble had not been there.

I meant the idle was set past where the stumble was actually happening. Actually have forgotten what the factory idle setting was.
RPM wise. The idle was set correctly when I bought it and within 6mo had set the it up faster when I discovered that I could set the idle faster and past where it was causing me a problem. This bike would have eventually killed me if I had not done so, especially with the nature of the markland floorboards and that awful brake pedal arrangement. After setting the idle up never felt a need to go into the carbs until last year when the carbs started acting up. As for mileage intown it was always mid 30's and hiway upper 30's.... sorry for the confusion but I did indeed misstate the rpm settings.
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post #66 of 161 (permalink) Old 02-25-2016, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by AZgl1800 View Post
I didn't even bother to comment on the fuel mileage aspect, as it was so totally ridiculous to even consider.

.the only downside to having a higher idle, is the engine braking effect is "slightly less", and that is the ONLY downside to an idle of 1100 RPM.

I have done this on two 1500s for the exact same reason. The stock alternator keeps humming along just fine, and has never, ever, left me in the dark. The 1500 only benefits from a bigger alternator if you add on a lot of extra lighting, and I never do.
What is ridiculous is your lack of knowledge on how a computer managed engine relies on engine parameter inputs in determining best operating characteristics for fuel efficiency and emissions.

The ECM relies on two primary inputs being manifold vacuum and engine RPM for application of Air Jet Controllers and Shot Air systems which lean mixtures out on deceleration in addition to ign timing changes, closed throttle manifold vacuum being an absolute number with increased base RPM changing this number. When you jack base idle RPM's up you in essence trick the computer into thinking the engine is not experiencing a true closed throttle deceleration hence little or no application of AJC injection into the carbs. Closed throttle decel and static manifold vacuum is calculated at the specified base RPM by the Engineers who design these things for everything to work properly and efficiently. Multiply this affect every time running down the road in which throttle is gently closed even at highway speeds and it adds up considerably in fuel consumption.

Simple question. Put full tanks of fuel in two 1500's and let them idle till empty with one at 800 RPM and another at 1100 RPM. which will run out first? Won't even be close.

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post #67 of 161 (permalink) Old 02-25-2016, 09:45 PM
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bad comparison, obviously the engine running at 1100 will run out of fuel first,


My 1500s have never idled for more than a minute or two at most, that will never effect fuel consumption.

end of discussion.

~ John


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post #68 of 161 (permalink) Old 02-25-2016, 09:58 PM
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This thread helped motivate me to take a stab at my stumble, so my carbs are out on my shop bench now. If you David, or anyone else knows the best place to get the #60 jets and also where and how much vacuum line to get, that would be awesome. I also need to rebuild my leaking petcock. Thanks
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post #69 of 161 (permalink) Old 02-25-2016, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Magic Fingers View Post
I know that you have already cleaned your carbs but I wanted to chime in with what I used for my cleaning. I use this for all my cleaning on the bike when it comes to grease and filth. Just don't get it on your paint. It's very strong stuff and will eat the prints right off your fingers. It does burn your skin quickly. I get this at Walmart.

I used this as a 50/50 water mixture in my parts washer. It does an incredible job. Let it soak for 15 minutes and then use a tooth brush and then rinse well with fresh water. Dry with a clean cloth, blow with air and dry cloth again.

Check out the results here... https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/...+magic+fingers
Tim
Tim, I think you cheated and bought new carbs to show off to us
those things are immaculate.

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post #70 of 161 (permalink) Old 02-25-2016, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXRLGL1500 View Post
Guys,
This stumble was ALWAYS JUST off idle letting the clutch out. It was actually set to about 900=950. I never had to give the bike any gas to get it started rolling....really a nice feature. Probably works at 800 too if the stumble had not been there.
Setting the mixture correctly and not by the FSM procedure (which causes it to be lean) will help with the off idle transition stumble some, too, and let you set the idle lower.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DriverRider View Post
The ECM relies on two primary inputs being manifold vacuum and engine RPM for application of Air Jet Controllers and Shot Air systems which lean mixtures out on deceleration in addition to ign timing changes, closed throttle manifold vacuum being an absolute number with increased base RPM changing this number. When you jack base idle RPM's up you in essence trick the computer into thinking the engine is not experiencing a true closed throttle deceleration hence little or no application of AJC injection into the carbs. Closed throttle decel and static manifold vacuum is calculated at the specified base RPM by the Engineers who design these things for everything to work properly and efficiently. Multiply this affect every time running down the road in which throttle is gently closed even at highway speeds and it adds up considerably in fuel consumption.

Simple question. Put full tanks of fuel in two 1500's and let them idle till empty with one at 800 RPM and another at 1100 RPM. which will run out first? Won't even be close.
Makes sense to me and round 2 was a disappointment being your explanation was ignored and your example was attacked instead before the discussion was "ended".
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Oh, ya. Beautiful carbs
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