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Gl1500 carb rebuild

36K views 160 replies 23 participants last post by  TXRLGL1500 
#1 ·
Its been awhile since I last posted. Ol Blue has been parked since last february. The accelerator pump on the carbs I believe are shot. Simply had no funds to affect a repair especially since my Dodge decided to drop second gear very far from my driveway this year.That alone was a 3k repair (diesel truck). Just put doing anything with the bike further and further back. Anyway, getting ready to order parts and wonder if it would be advisable to install the #60 jet(s) out of the later model 1500's to help eliminate the off idle stumble? Any advice would be welcome.
Thanks
David
 
#36 ·
Do you have any experience with this? Boiling an aluminum alloy or brass in an acidic solution seems to me like it would discolor them. The only carbs I've ever HAD to boil in water were ones that sat so many years that they were gummed up and impossible to disassemble otherwise. Normally, carb cleaner and compressed air is plenty.
 
#37 ·
used it for other stuff in my electronics shop, can't recall if I used it on aluminum, and, that might not be a good idea.

however, Simple Green is neutral and I used that a lot on anything and everything in my UltraSonic cleaner.
 
#38 ·
TXRLGL1500, There was a Product Update for the 1988 Gold Wing. (1988 GL1500 Carburetor Vent Hose Routing)

This only applied to 1988 Gold Wing's up through vin # 1HFSC2200JA004107.

You can tell if this Update was performed by opening the fuel filler door. If you see a "Vacuum Fuel Valve, the product update was done.
 
#39 ·
John
I have put a very mild solution of vinegar in the water. Less than a couple of oz. or so. What I have discovered its does not discolor anything. I used it full strength on some exterior parts and the bottom of the float bowl. I agree it is acidic but do not think I have mixed it strong enough to eat anything up. Its in the pot now going to boil it out for about four hours or so. Then attempt to pop the slow speed jet out and blow everything out with air compressor. I have used simple green and purple power on other things and both products are excellent. FYI: There is a great cleaner my wife and I have used on EVERYTHING
that can be purchased at the Dollar Store...its called "Simply Awesome". Its cheap and works incredibly well on ANYTHING
and biodegradable

Dboher
Just did a search...yes the update was done. I had bypassed the autopetcock a couple of years ago when gas was not getting by
the valve. Rebuilt the valve and things were fine for awhile and it started failing again. Bypassed it and left it that way. Going to go back using the autopetcock again.

The reason I am not using carb cleaner as I have in the past its just way too smelly. Everything I do in the garage (odor wise) comes right in the house.

Once I get this all sorted out back together am going to consider selling ol' blue. Thinking 1800. Wife is adamant about not selling this bike but need something a bit more uptodate. And its not her working on it.
 
#41 ·
Did the limiter mod. Also since I am replacing the idle jets to the #60 from the #50, anyone have any ideas as to the number
of turns the pilots should start out at. I determined the existing turns were 3 to seated. So if I am richening the idle should I dial them back to 2 turns out? I do not have a manual for any of this.
Thanks
David
 
#42 ·
Do the math for yourself.:smiler: When going from the 50 to 55 jets mixture screws get turned in one turn to 2 1/8 turns initial. 60 jets are very large and overkill in comparison to the OEM which is why I recommended the 58's.

I would start at 1 1/2-3/4 turns out initial point and adjust out from there. You do not want a teary eyed exhaust smelling gas hog.
 
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#43 ·
DriverRider:
I purchased the #60's directly off Honda Direct Parts for a 1990 GL1500 as that is what the jet size was for that year. They are not aftermarket. Also several have commented on the fact they were successful in using jets for that year (searched this forum). I do appreciate your comment and chiming in here on the initial turn settings for the Pilot adjustments. Since I have no manual....oops... yes I do now. John (aka:AZGL1800) was very gracious in sending me his library of information. Which included a complete manual!!!
Big Thanks to Him!
David
 
#44 ·
RUBBER
19050-MT2-010




I recently purchased the heat rubber matt from Western Honda . I needed to replace hoses underneath and the rubber was in pieces . Still working on the cooling system. So it will go on last!
Just in case you are replacing yours also
 
#46 ·
The jets came today. So was able to get the cleaned right side carb back together. The left side is now apart and will boiling it out this evening.
Noticed there was some fine sandy junk in float bowl and the idle jet had some junk in it as well. Still have to find some heat resistant vacuum line. The stuff at Oreilly's is for windshield wipers cleaner. Does anyone think that might work? It looks like I will not need much. I have only two short pieces I had to destroy to get them off the carbs. Also still have to change the leftside subfilter.
I will post some pictures of the progress a bit later. There is a striking comparison of how the carbs looked after cleaning.
 
#49 ·
Still have to find some heat resistant vacuum line. The stuff at Oreilly's is for windshield wipers cleaner. Does anyone think that might work?
Windshield washer hose= throw it in the trash. Get real vacuum line from a NAPA or similar.
 
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#50 ·
John
I pulled the carb out of the distilled water and mild vinegar solution. It was probably too mild and there was not much progress. The one on the left in the picture had been soaking for 5-6 hours.
So dumped 1/4 gallon of "Simply Awesome" cleaner in with that much distilled water and the results was amazing. After which
I blew the carb body out with compressed air then did a warm water wash with mild detergent and repeated the compressed air treatment.

DriverRider:
Got it! I thought so too
 

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#51 ·
Carb work

I too use vinegar as it is a mild acid, but I follow it up with a baking soda solution as a neutralizer. Being that this bike is 28 years old, I think that you should be prepared to replace alot of rubber components. Unless the slides have been replaced, I'd "almost" bet you that they will have cracks in the diaphragms. Also be sure to pull up the rubber boot and inspect the formed rubber hoses coming off both the front and rear of the intake manifolds. Check those hoses at their bends for soft spots, they'll suck holes in them at that point. The other items that I'd automatically change if they haven't been would be the insulators. All of these rubber items get hard and brittle over time and won't seal very well at all, causing vacuum leaks and lean running conditions. The last thing that you want is to have to pull the carbs a second time, so be through and do it right the first time. Plus you can't adjust the jets or sync. the carbs if the system is not sealed tight'
If the recall has been done, just a good "through" cleaning and rebuilding with new wear items should do the trick.
Look at Partzilla's website under your year and model, then look under "cylinder head" to find the hoses etc... Good Luck!
 
#52 ·
Insulators on the carbs to intake manifold were nearly rock hard. Replacements already here. The diaphragms were perfect.
The the accelerator pump was not squirting gas after noticing it while idling and giving it throttle. None of the other hoses are brittle. In the past the autopetcock has been troublesome even after a rebuild. I bypassed it to determine if that was the problem. Indeed it was back then as the fuel starvation from idle was eliminated. The left carb had some trash in the slow speed jet and the main jet.
 
#54 ·
Spiralout:
THANKS for the heads up on that. I missed it. But I can still check this. The carbs are assembled but not to the heater plate or the upper nozzle plate. In fact I just replaced the orings on the check valve. That would be an easy check especially right now.
David
 
#55 ·
I wish I had the time and garage space to do this to my 88. Has anyone tried just richening up the pilot screws to see if it helps at all with the stumble? I know it works for my virago bike. Also, does anyone know how many turns from soft seat until the screws fall out? With my virago it's like 9. Anyway, nice work David!
 
#56 ·
Tyaston
I think if the pilot's were more accessible folks might try it. BUT you cannot even see them, I do not know how I am going to reach them to sync the carbs once its all back on. I could barely see the isolator clamp screws to get the carbs off. Maybe run a hose over the end of the pilot screws and use it to twist the pilots. ????? maybe?

However that being said mine were already a little over three turns off the seat. What I found with my 88 is without all that work was just turn the idle speed up from 600rpm (i think that is it) to 800rpm. It put engine rpm past where the stumble would occur. This never bothered me at all. In fact you never had to give it any gas to get the bike rolling from a stop. Just let the clutch out and it would start to roll.

Stopped on the carbs for the moment, the spring on the rod that pushes the accelerator pump took off to parts unknown during re-assembly. Waiting on a replacement. I have rebuilt carbs before but nothing with this much stuff hung all over the outside of them, nor in such a da$% tight limited work space.

I viewed the link spiralout sent and the accelerator pump thru the checkvalve is working. The accelerator pump nozzles are clear as I could blow air thru them. So it is now clear.
 
#58 ·
the 1500s should be idling at about 800 up to 1100.

Personally, I set both of my 1500s at 1100 RPM as that provides plenty of electricity for brake lights, etc... when you are stopped 'way too long'.

It also helps keep you from 'stalling the engine' if you drop the clutch too hard on take off.
 
#59 ·
Idle speed for the 1500 is 800 RPM +/-80 to keep the computer happy and fuel mileage in check.:)
 
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#64 ·
Carb cleaning "mix" I used...

I know that you have already cleaned your carbs but I wanted to chime in with what I used for my cleaning. I use this for all my cleaning on the bike when it comes to grease and filth. Just don't get it on your paint. It's very strong stuff and will eat the prints right off your fingers. It does burn your skin quickly. I get this at Walmart.





I used this as a 50/50 water mixture in my parts washer. It does an incredible job. Let it soak for 15 minutes and then use a tooth brush and then rinse well with fresh water. Dry with a clean cloth, blow with air and dry cloth again.





Check out the results here... http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums...date&order=desc&page=1&query=mr+magic+fingers


Tim
 

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#69 ·
I know that you have already cleaned your carbs but I wanted to chime in with what I used for my cleaning. I use this for all my cleaning on the bike when it comes to grease and filth. Just don't get it on your paint. It's very strong stuff and will eat the prints right off your fingers. It does burn your skin quickly. I get this at Walmart.

I used this as a 50/50 water mixture in my parts washer. It does an incredible job. Let it soak for 15 minutes and then use a tooth brush and then rinse well with fresh water. Dry with a clean cloth, blow with air and dry cloth again.

Check out the results here... http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums...date&order=desc&page=1&query=mr+magic+fingers
Tim
Tim, I think you cheated and bought new carbs to show off to us :wink2:
those things are immaculate.
 
#65 ·
Guys,
This stumble was ALWAYS JUST off idle letting the clutch out. It was actually set to about 900=950. I never had to give the bike any gas to get it started rolling....really a nice feature. Probably works at 800 too if the stumble had not been there.

I meant the idle was set past where the stumble was actually happening. Actually have forgotten what the factory idle setting was.
RPM wise. The idle was set correctly when I bought it and within 6mo had set the it up faster when I discovered that I could set the idle faster and past where it was causing me a problem. This bike would have eventually killed me if I had not done so, especially with the nature of the markland floorboards and that awful brake pedal arrangement. After setting the idle up never felt a need to go into the carbs until last year when the carbs started acting up. As for mileage intown it was always mid 30's and hiway upper 30's.... sorry for the confusion but I did indeed misstate the rpm settings.
David
 
#70 ·
Guys,
This stumble was ALWAYS JUST off idle letting the clutch out. It was actually set to about 900=950. I never had to give the bike any gas to get it started rolling....really a nice feature. Probably works at 800 too if the stumble had not been there.
Setting the mixture correctly and not by the FSM procedure (which causes it to be lean) will help with the off idle transition stumble some, too, and let you set the idle lower.
The ECM relies on two primary inputs being manifold vacuum and engine RPM for application of Air Jet Controllers and Shot Air systems which lean mixtures out on deceleration in addition to ign timing changes, closed throttle manifold vacuum being an absolute number with increased base RPM changing this number. When you jack base idle RPM's up you in essence trick the computer into thinking the engine is not experiencing a true closed throttle deceleration hence little or no application of AJC injection into the carbs. Closed throttle decel and static manifold vacuum is calculated at the specified base RPM by the Engineers who design these things for everything to work properly and efficiently. Multiply this affect every time running down the road in which throttle is gently closed even at highway speeds and it adds up considerably in fuel consumption.

Simple question. Put full tanks of fuel in two 1500's and let them idle till empty with one at 800 RPM and another at 1100 RPM. which will run out first? Won't even be close.
Makes sense to me and round 2 was a disappointment being your explanation was ignored and your example was attacked instead before the discussion was "ended".
Oh, ya. Beautiful carbs
 
#68 ·
This thread helped motivate me to take a stab at my stumble, so my carbs are out on my shop bench now. If you David, or anyone else knows the best place to get the #60 jets and also where and how much vacuum line to get, that would be awesome. I also need to rebuild my leaking petcock. Thanks
 
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