1984 Aspencade electrical drain - Page 3 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 08:51 PM
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Dave, not sure what pulling the voltage regulator will tell me. Is there something else Iím missing like testing it?
If your problem goes away the regulator is bad.
You don't have to know the how and why.

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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 09:28 PM
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Get a good one the stuff on Ebay seems to not be good especially the made in China junk.
You can find some oem Honda ones from salvage yards: https://www.ebay.com/itm/84-85-86-87...8AAOSwdU1cyINh


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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 09:51 PM
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Dave, not sure what pulling the voltage regulator will tell me. Is there something else Iím missing like testing it?

It will tell you if that is the problem. The regulator is the only thing that can have power to it at all times if as you said you already tried pulling all the fuses in the fuse box.

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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 10:15 PM
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Dave, not sure what pulling the voltage regulator will tell me. Is there something else Iím missing like testing it?
A bad diode inside will cause the problem. The diodes job is to allow current to flow in one direction, its a one way street for electricity. If a diode goes bad the current flows both ways. That starter relay needs to go too.
The arrow show the direction in which the flow travels, the line crossing in front of the arrow is the blocker and nothing should back-flow. By unplugging the regulator/rectifier you'll know where to lay the blame for the drain.
If you view the pic of the regulator you'll see 3 yellow wires, a pair of green and a pair of red and a lone black. The yellow goes to the stator, green is ground and red to battery.
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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
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Removed the voltage regulator/rectifier and the 14.3 v drain is still present. Any others ideas?
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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 09:44 AM
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Removed the voltage regulator/rectifier and the 14.3 v drain is still present. Any others ideas?
We need an amp reading, voltage is almost meaningless. Do you get a spark when connecting the battery?

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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockinroland View Post
Removed the voltage regulator/rectifier and the 14.3 v drain is still present. Any others ideas?
Unplug the regulator, leave everything alone for a day, if the battery isn't dead when you come back the regulator is the problem.

Advise given here is free and comes with no warranty "Caveat emptor"

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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 01:30 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, always get a spark when connecting the negative battery cable.
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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 05:35 PM
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Yes, always get a spark when connecting the negative battery cable.
Ok then you have to start disconnecting things until the short goes away.

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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 12:38 AM
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If you have a drain it will be in amps not voltage. The battery fully charged, but not while being charged should be close to a static 13.7 volts.


Connect a multi-meter in the amp function between the battery and the bike, (start on a high amp setting). all power to the bike must run through the meter. Do not try to start while using a amp-meter. this should tell you if there is a constant drain.



Clocks and such may pull a few milliamps, but if your batter is dead in an hour or so, you may have a bad battery or a short.


Charge battery while disconnected from bike, disconnect from charger, wait at least 48 hours, hook up to bike, bike should be able to start just fine. If it does not, the battery may have an internal short. Get a new battery.

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