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1st motorcycle

2K views 16 replies 11 participants last post by  FredFromArnold 
#1 ·
Howdy guys,

So I recently just bought my first bike, a 77 Goldwing. Before the other day it hadn't run since 1989 so that was a small victory. It was a barn find.

Anyhow it looks pretty decent besides the rusted out muffler and the flakey chrome on the valve covers.

Current battles with it are unsticking the clutch and getting the engine to run without having to give it throttle. The clutch won't disengage so I can't shift gears without grinding. I tried revving it up good then slamming on the rear brake with the handle pulled in and it immediately stalled. I've replaced the oil/filter and coolant. I'm really trying to not have to remove the engine to get to it.

I'm really trying to not have to rebuild the carbs either. The gas was drained when it was parked so I'm hoping that they arent gummed up with only 21000 miles. Randakk recommends a Yamaha additive, i might try that.

This is a project bike that I'm trying to turn into the backup for my car when I'm working on that and ride mainly around town. I'm trying to do this as cheaply as possible.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks guys
 
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#4 ·
Hello Star, I'm just around the sound from you in Puyallup. Welcome.

I don't want to dampen your parade, honestly. I've found "barn finds" to be some of the most challenging projects. Typically not a good thing.

Thirty years ( a third of a century...) without running, in my opinion, is a mess that will need to be sorted out. Either get ahead of it, or be fighting gremlins on a perpetual basis. I say this with nearly four decades experience of sorting out various "barn finds".

To take this on as your first bike is admirable.

Anything related to belts or seals should be considered end of life. So, belts, diaphragms, etc. need to be at the head of the list for rebuild/replacement. You should consider the carb diaphragms toast.

I'm far from an expert on the charging system, but you'll need to dig into that also.

It's my understanding that if you need to get into the alternator, the engine needs to be pulled. Most common cause is stator failure. Prevent that if you can.

Don't mean to be a buzzkill. You are working on a tight budget, and things like this can eat you alive.
 
#5 ·
Right on! Its nice to have someone nearby! So I usually work on classic cars so I'm very well used to this kind of stuff. My DD is a 65 Ranchero and my other project car that I bought and sold was a 61 Studebaker Lark, that i brought back from the dead.

It seems to be charging currently. After I have it run the battery level doesn't drop on the charger, it goes up. Its when I'm cranking it to start is when it drops lol.

Its not very far gone. It was free spinning when i got it, and after changing the timing belt to the Gates one and replacing the idlers with the Gates ones I decided to try to crank it up. And it did once i got all 4 sparks firing. Initially the front plugs were only firing. After taking the coil off and putting it back on it magically worked :).

What I've done so far:
•New battery
•Oil/filter and collant change
•Replaced front caliper lines
•Bled front calipers
•Replaced front pads and got front calipers to stop dragging
•Bled rear but the diaphram under the res leaks so that needs replaced/rebuilt
•Changed and upgraded timing belt and idlers, respectively
•Got running kinda
•Got new shocks to replace the blown out adjustable rear shocks, they should be here next week

What I know I need:
•Rear rotor and pads (its really grooved)
•Carb rebuild, will use Randakk kit unless you all recommended otherwise
•New plugs
•Maybe new points, they look clean and good though
•Valves adjusted
•Muffler, it's rusted out, gonna replace with car glasspacks
•Tires
•Rear brake res rebuild
•Air filter
 
#10 ·
Right on! Its nice to have someone nearby! So I usually work on classic cars so I'm very well used to this kind of stuff. My DD is a 65 Ranchero and my other project car that I bought and sold was a 61 Studebaker Lark, that i brought back from the dead.
Good to hear. Sounds like you've done your homework, and know your way around the business end of the wrench. A friend of mine is an example of the other end of the spectrum. Nineteen years later, his "project" has disappeared into the weeds.

I got a new to me bike a couple months ago. Although it was running, your punch list is eerily familiar to the things I took care of with mine.

Good luck, and keep us posted!
 
#8 ·
Welcome!!! I'm sort of in the same boat, but my bike's only been out of action for about 18 months... Sounds like yours is in good hands though! I'll be following along, keep us posted on your progress!
 
#9 ·
:welc:

On the clutch you might give a few more tries on unsticking it with the throttle-brake method. First adjust the clutch cable a little "Too tight" for maximum release on the clutch pack.

Grooves on the brake rotor won't hurt anything, and with low miles the rotor can't be worn down to out-of tolerance. With the scarcity and cost of these rotors I'd simply replace the pads. They'll wear-in to match the grooves nicely! Plenty of small grooves on my 1100's rotors, too (but has over 100k miles). Small grooves are actually pretty normal. :grin3:
 
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#13 ·
Hallo StarDiero75

Welcome on this nice forum. Wish you al the best.
And good luck with your Wing.
 
#15 ·
Thats what ive read man, these bikes are great! I can't wait to get mine rolling.
Currently i believe the fuel gauge doesn't work but the temp does. I haven't filled the tank up enough yet to really see if it does work.

What's the fix for the gas guage if it doesn't work?
 
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