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Single Carburetor - which one?

155K views 593 replies 66 participants last post by  AZgl1800 
#1 ·
I'm running the Weber 32/36 Prog. right now.
What do you use?
What would you use?
Why?

My next project will be the Solex 30PICT-1 like the one below.
 

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#52 ·
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CaptainMidnight85 wrote:
I'm excited BM, but this weather is a bit hard for me to plan around. Weather forecasting is accurate enough, but I continually dismiss it with less than appreciated results.

I was hoping to spend time on it this weekend, but the girls bikes are being put up for the winter and each has their turn with me on prepping, and performing their own maintenance tasks for the hibernation.

Solo prep is not an option for eitheryet. :cool:
By all means, get them gals bikes stored properly and they'll have a trouble free wakeup in the spring.
 
#53 ·
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You may have to consider either oil or coolant heaters like cars use for fast warmups. If the block is already warm from that kinda thing then you should be all set. Maybe a block heater itself.

Wouldn't have it's being a 1200 instead of an 1100 or 1000 would make that much difference.

Been a while for me, but I don't remember using any thing like that for either my Type 3 squareback or the '64 bus I used to own.

I do remember having to sit and let the bus idle before taking off, About a minute or so.

The type 3 was throttle body injected, I think, but didn't have to wait long before running.
 
#54 ·
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Those ran exhaust heat didn't they?....
 
#55 ·
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When living in Independence, Mo years ago I rebuilt the engine in a 66 type 2 VW bus. All I ever used for it in the winter was a dipstick heater for the oil. Made it a whole lot easier to start in the mornings.

I did goof up at first on the plug wires when I put the engine back in. Barely got it in before a big snow storm moved in for New Years Eve so I rushed it. Thought it started fine so I drove it to a family gathering 15 miles away New Years Day and made it to the location just fine even though it felt under powered. Well on the way home got 5 miles from the house and ran out of gas which was a full tank when we started out that morning. Got a ride home for all 3 of us, grabbed a 5 gallon can, got it filled and got back to the bus. Filled it up and and drove it home. 2 days later when the snow cleared I re-checked the plug wires and found I had two of them crossed. After that back to 25 miles to the gallon.
 
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#56 ·
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The used exhaust heat to warm the interior of the vehicle.
The bus must a had the tube under the intake, but I don't remember. That vehicle was back before 1979.

The type 3 didn't have that tube. The center air-distributor sat right down almost on the block. I think it was warmed just from the heat rising from the block itsself.
 
#57 ·
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CaptainMidnight85 wrote:
Those ran exhaust heat didn't they?....
Yes, the intake manifold had a smaller crosstube that pulled heat from the exhaust. It was sealed and a completely separate tube so the exhaust fumes couldn't enter the intake manifold.


Pre 67 buses ran heater boxes built around the exhaust pipes as did the bugs. 67 and later ran heat exchangers molded around the exhaust pipes. I found the older style heater boxes actually warmed the car faster than the exchanger models. All this was before the type 3 buses.

The heat exchangers were completely enclosed so less chance of exhaust fumes entering the cab of the bus or car.
 
#58 ·
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Well, my goal is to have something that isstand-alone and independent of other power sources which would give manifold heat immediately at engine start-up while away from home. In all reality, my electric heating ideashould be considered supplemental to passive heating of my manifold, but I've gotta take it one step at a time.

Edit:
I'm certain that "immediately" won't be a literal act, but I'm shooting to get as close to it as possible.
 
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#61 ·
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I've bought a 12V electric blanket and have removed the heating wire running through it....
 
#62 ·
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CaptainMidnight85 wrote:
I've bought a 12V electric blanket and have removed the heating wire running through it....
Cool, that should work too! Plus it is variable heat.
 
#63 ·
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This is my primary reasoning for the PVC/Gasoline Permeation testing..... :shock:...:cheeky1:
 

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#64 ·
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The grip heater idea would make it a contained package.
Still a little warm up time.
Are you trying for warm feet or start up and ride off right away?

In cold weather I usually start the bike and let it idle while putting on my helmet and gloves. That is a minute or so.
 
#65 ·
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I need lots of heat...
It was below freezing this morning...


Edit:
It will be contained as a unit, embedded within the manifold itself. Nothing visible or accessible aside from a electrical connection point (automotive grade) such as you would see on any sensor.
 
#66 ·
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Though I am running the Type-3 manifold on it right now, I do not like the set-up. I'm not complaining, I'm moving to something I think will be better.
 
#67 ·
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78AZWING wrote:
Don't think its possible.
Cars and trucks don't have immediate heat either, takes 5 or 6 miles before warm air starts coming out. Or warming up while cleaning snow and ice from the windows so you can see.
Actually, Jeep 2nd generation 258 6's use electrical pre-heating on their intake manifolds. I've thought of many avenues. This piece mounts to the bottom of, and throughthe intake directly beneath the carburetor/throttle body. Appears to be about the right size for a Type-3 manifold, but I haven't pursued one to find out. I'm going PVC.
Edit: Once engine gets to NOT, it shuts off... It's dependant on the CTS..
 

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#68 ·
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Where would it go?
If memory serves right there isn't any where to mount that to the manifold.

My jeep uses the F-head 134 ci 4 cylinder. Carb is mounted directly to the head on that one. My old pickup was a '51 and had the same engine. My wagon was a 51 that some previous owner mounted a 283 in with the jeep tranny and rear end. Real fast up to 50 or so, but that was about the top end in that one. My first one was a 47 cj2a with a flat head four..

Never had one with the 258 in it so not familiar with the intakes and pre-heating on them.
 
#69 ·
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Here you go. Most 2nd generation 258's came with them. I've never heard of one going bad or becoming faulty, except for the occasional vacuum leak at the O-ring.
Should be a inexpensive junker find, be it a yard or a backyard. I have not searched for one.

Edit: Chrysler/Jeep P/N J3242601 "Early Fuel EV or Evaporation" '83-'86 - no longer available. Part of Chryslers attempt at maintaining exhaust emissions compliance.

Sidenote: The recommended Weber replacement (with adapter) would've been the 32/36 @ 300 CFM or the 38/38 @ 390 CFM. Holley 2300 @ 350 CFM also. The factory Carter BBD's were prone to clogging and electrical servo failure.
 

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#70 ·
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Weatherman was right... it's snowing.
 
#71 ·
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recomended replacement for my carter is a solex one barrel. Don't remember the number, but I can get one for something like 90 to 120 depending on which reputable dealer you use.

Reputable IS open to interpretation.

67 degrees here. Actually good mechanicing weather now.
 
#72 ·
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I am using a 30 tict- 1 round bowl VW carb.on the kit that
I sell. I going with heat tape they put on water lines to keep from frezing 110/115 volt,going to wrap the water lines
on top of engine. As you can tell by looking at my web site
ldwingnut.com ,I have plenty of room.
 
#73 ·
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Low temperature throughout the night: 21 degrees
Current temp: 26 degrees
Snow covered ground... but roads are clear. Not much snow really.
RR bike prep set for 2:00 pm this afternoon in unheated garage...
Bought a big kerosene heater and its out there cooking now. :)

We're living like Vikings them RR's and I...
But we love it.
 
#75 ·
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Stopped snowing.. but ...C O L D... out there.

Why not just get a couple of used ones and rebuild them? $20-$30 each via Samba and kits are cheap...

You're going with duals?
 
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