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Single Carburetor - which one?

155K views 593 replies 66 participants last post by  AZgl1800 
#1 ·
I'm running the Weber 32/36 Prog. right now.
What do you use?
What would you use?
Why?

My next project will be the Solex 30PICT-1 like the one below.
 

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#77 ·
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LD, Not trying to sound smart, but I'm curious:shock:!! Why the 110 tape?? Also Guys, on your electrical heat set ups for heating, will there be very much pull to heat from the battery? I do like the hand grip idea, variable heat and the 12v blanket idea!! CapMid, will that have a rheostat on it also?? And for the snow:tongue::D, will get ours soon enough;)!!! This morning I was sittingon acold aluminum wet bleacher at my Grandsons football game 39', so dang foggy you could hardly see the field:cheeky1::cheeky1:!! During Half time, I went to the truck and warmed my feet up:shock::shock:!! Could have used a heat blanket then :gunhead:!!! :waving:Bob (Man I love Spellcheck:D)
 
#80 ·
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I have been out to Phoenix International Raceway twice for Nascar races. Don't really care for crowds that much, and there is absolutely NO padding on those seats. They really limit what you can bring in, so you are stuck with little cushions that will fit into see-through plastic packs, plus maybe two bottles of water. Any thing else you have to buy.

Only good thing is our seats were at the west end under that big metal awning that the spotters stand on, so we had shade most of the day. Would not have been able to stay otherwise. A hundred and such in the shade with no shade is not an experience I pay to endure.
 
#81 ·
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What I bought is rated @ 6.7 amp current draw... 120 degree heat... with a small regulator circuit and a fairly long power cord with led indicator in a cigarette lighter power plug.... $53

I've cut out the heating element wire and separated it from the power cord. I haven't measured total length but I guess it at 50' or so.

I'm still tossing around various ideas on controlling its function, but I am leaning towardsincorporating it into the fans temperature switch, making it fully automatic to the bikes temperature needs. Once a predetermined (as yet undetermined) value is reached at the switch it will shut off (but may never turn on) depending on the coolant temperature. No variable control, just on or off. Electrical input to the manifold will be at the bottom rear using a fine waterproof automotive jack like this:
 

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#82 ·
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My reason was you could plug it in at night like the
diesels and be ready to go in the morning. as for the carb.
i.m useing its a new 30tict-1 for a 40 horsepower 1200cc vw.
the main jet i've change from metric to thousants of an inch
so you can go to hardware store and buy what size drill bit
you want to drill the jets,the breather is a washable life
time(if you dont hit with a air hose) offset for the vw with
hose for crancase. got to go. the leaves are falling in the smokies.
 
#85 ·
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There's always the programmable auto-start w/timed auto-shut-off features that some alarms have...

Could be utilizedadditionally for bikes left in neutral on centerstand.
 
#87 ·
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I went today for a 30 minute ride and didn't turn on my heated plenum but I must say since I brought my maintenance up to date she ran good in 45' weather. Since my plenum is cast aluminum it holds the coolness more. On my next ride I'll posts again. I will say the coolant lines that were coming up were so hot I couldn't hold my hand on it:shock:!! Still have to try my Weber/Holley out, to many Honey Do Stuff:(:(!!! :waving:Bob
 
#91 ·
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This is an article someone wrote at the GL1200 sight called "is your single carb too small"?

Today I had a Solex 31 PIC 7 tested on a carb flow bench.
A small company 200 miles from here has simulated the GL1000 engine by some data they have gathered somewhere (61kW, 1000ccm, cam angle, valve diameter etc...)
The result:
The carb is far too small:
At high rpm the speed of the air is too high, so there are some saturation effects and the main jet stops working properly. The full throttle enrichment jet cannot compensate this effect properly. Even with different jetting the maximum horsepower to be reached is 45kW.
The man said that this must also happen on CI setups with Holley, when the carb has about the same size. Enlargening jets is a poor compromise. The results are too high idle rpm, too rich cruising range and too weak top end mixture. And a bad mpg.
He said the minimum size for a GL1000 single carb is 36mm, but he would never recommend this. He said the best way is a Weber carb 2bbl where the secondary opens mechanically after the primary having comletely opened.
We call this "register carb", don't know the english word.
The reasons: Webers are mechanically solid, available everywhere, easy to adjust and jets can be exchanged from above. A small primary brings low and stable idling, a lot of low end torque and good cruising mpg. The bigger secondary together with the primary can even increase horsepower to calculated 70kW.
The man is 60 years old and was tuning carbs all his life.
He developed carbs in former times at the Pierburg plant.
So lets think about concentrating on 2bbl carbs or injection, I will finish my tests with my carbs, but will use also the carb the man recommended:
Weber 34DMTR, 25/27 or even a little larger.
Sorry, Ron, that I cannot bring better news.
Ray(end article)

I can attest to the Weber 28/30 working very well in a GL1000.It has all the low end power you need and extra boost when the secondary is opened.
Warmup time is very close to the stock units.I never ran a choke cable into the Weber.I reach under and hold it open for about 10 seconds and turn the cruise control/throttle lock to run the engine at a higher idle,then let choke off completley.
The throttle lock is just like pulling the choke nob because the Weber doesnt need a long choke cycle but needs help with a slightly opened throttle until engine warms some.
This is a really sweet setup once you get all your ducks in a row and understand the differences of the Weber and the stockers warmup characteristics.
Throttle response is superb and idle is very steady.

The setup could probably be moved into many different model years in little time with minimal jetting changes.It fits up nice in the GL1000(no frame cutting)and the VW manifold sits close to the water tubes,so there is some heat exchange though not too much immediate effect.


Cheers,
Flatfour
 
#92 ·
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This report has been around for a while. Valid... probably, but where's the flow data? If someone took the time to set-up a flow machine to a GL 1000s specification, why was the flow data never shown for this carburetor. This has done nothing but create speculation, as too many noobs take the written word for gospel and stories evolve fromopinion to fiction to fact. The data would end that.

Still, this for some is nota major concern, as the reported info assumes a owner wants 7k+(?) RPM with total efficiency. Many just want simplicity instead. Don't get me wrong as I would love to find a rebuildable 28/36 for the joy of simply just having it, let alone using it.

Hey, if one rides hard then a two barrel is the way to go, IMO.
If one just rides, then a single barrel is adequate.
If one wants simplicity, depending on the individual, a single barrel is the only option that makes sense.

Many carburetors for many reasons, yes, but its the claims I question.
 
#93 ·
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I have the 28/30 on my '78 now. I can also attest to the short choke cycle and quick warm-up. Mine is on the CC manifold with the water heating/cooling jacket. I haven't had it out yet to ride, cause my mufflers are shot and I just have the headers mounted with nothing after the collectors.

Wife says it isn't too loud - she could still hear the tv, with just one door and a short hallway between her and the garage.

Idle settled in at 1050 on the tach, no loading for the time I had it running - about 5 minutes, maybe ten. and would pick right up to 6500 or so with the throttle twisted.

I did have the Junkyard Wing out twice. The 28/30 ran up fine through the gearing with not stutters or bogs. Not having plates on the bike, however I couldn't take and run down the highway. It did have plenty of GO! in first and second up to redline though.

I expect the '78 will be the same.
 

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#94 ·
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What did you have on before?... the 32/36?... I can't remember.

If so, I think you'll be happier with that carb once it's set-up.

This is opinion though, as I've not tried anything other than my 32/36, so I'm interested in your findings 78.....
 
#95 ·
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Hi Guys, when we were testing over at GoldWings BackYard, the way was just putting some carbs on and hoping for the best:D! Which Ican say was probably not the best way but fun,...some few knew how to jet a carb properly and others like myself kinda learned along the way. That's backyard thinking:cheeky1::cheeky1:!! Any way we shared what we thought we knew and some also came up with some neat stuff;). But like in anything you have to do a little experimenting. I guess we never thought of using flow charts, I still don't know how to even understand one:(! But it was fun,.. all I can say is we tried:cool:. I too also agree about the simple way is a single barrel, have run my CI set up for going on ten years now. But would also like the 2 barrel, just to say I could:D. I will say I did test the 26/27Weber, but found that it made the bike run hotter and could never get the jets right for a good read on the plugs. Once I thought I had every thing dialed in , then the carb would run rich and foul out the plugs:shock:. I finally went back to my original CI and rode instead of testing!! Wife is giving be the Evil eye, gotta go back latter and keep up the Good Work,....:waving:Bob
 
#97 ·
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badorderbob2 wrote:
...when we were testing over at GoldWings BackYard

For whatever reason, they won't let me join over there.

I tend to pave my own way anyways, but teamwork has a mutual benefit for those involved. It's also mutually destructive if allowed.

So, with that being said, I choose to post my thoughts here and thank Steve for the opportunity to continue doing so.
 
#98 ·
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There is not a lot of activity on BackYardGrill anymore for some reason.

However, if you go back to the end of the archives and work your way forward, there is an awful lot of information in the different threads.

I had the stockers on the '78. Wouldn't hold an idle - removed and cleaned.

cutting out at 50 mph - removed and cleaned.

ran good, but #3 started to flood at idle - removed and replaced by 28/30 webber.

Hah! Runs Good!
 
#99 ·
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Sorry for the mishap CapMid:(,...but hope youmight use any information found there:cool:!!! But for now in the next few days I'm planing to mount my Weber/Holley :)and was hoping someone might have an idea where tobuy some MainJets; 136, 137, 138. Since I don't have excess to a Dyno, I'll have to read the plugs and try to get spot on; unless someone else has another useful method/idea???Any help will be most appreciated :waving:!!! :coollep:Bob
 
#100 ·
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There was an interesting bit that came up today on NGW. They were talking about vacum signal and generating enough vacum to properly draw fuel out at idle. Since thae later cams give a fair bit more vacum this might be the way to go if you had idle problems.
 
#101 ·
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I dont disagree with you Captain.The initial expense may be far cheaper going one barrel vs two.I was just looking at that article and thinking it was pretty right on in the respect of the suggestions made that a little larger than a 26/27 would be a good start.

It sure had my attention.With what ive experienced thus far with the 28/30 Weber on my 77 GL,its caused me to scan the web for another setup to equip my naked 75 with the same setup.
It will be a lot easier the second time around.The cam difference between the 2 years are my only concern.

Flatfour.
 
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