GL1000/1100/1200 Single Carb Conversion 2 Barrel 32DFT Progressive Runs Excellent - Page 125 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1241 of 1299 (permalink) Old 08-10-2015, 03:19 PM
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When it comes time to do so, I intend to take lots of picture and write it up in detail what I did...that did or didn't work...and put it on a separate thread.

CaptainMidnight85,

To answer your question, manifold volume didn't enter into the equation on the size of the tubing, but use the smallest possible tubing. I'm afraid it's way above my noggin to go figuring manifold volume. What I do intend to do is weld a section to the bottom so that radiator water (anti-freeze) comes in direct contact with the manifold. I don't even know if that would work for proper heating for this carb. I suspect it will work somewhat.

I really do agree with the fellow that said that there is no way you can beat the OEM carbs with a single carb, but...well... Tinkers gotta tinker. Its who we are.
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post #1242 of 1299 (permalink) Old 08-10-2015, 04:39 PM
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I believe that of the two choices, the one providing for a smaller volume will give better performance.
I've built one using the material in the pictures.
1-1/2" X 3" X 1/8" rectangular aluminum tubing.
I use the same 1-1/2" round tubing as with any of my other manifolds.
Adding a coolant chamber is much easier to add to this compared to a Empi plenum.
I no longer have one (a completed manifold) to show though.

This type of manifold (without a coolant chamber) can be bought today.

I forgot to add the pics and editing them in from a phone (or at least my phone) ain't happening. I'll try and get them in later..
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post #1243 of 1299 (permalink) Old 08-11-2015, 12:40 PM
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Actually I may order the Jbugs manifold. I have just been concerned on how I would get heat since I don't have an aluminum welder. When the carb gets here Friday or Monday, I will decide for sure.

Does anybody know the OD size of runners on the Jbugs manifold?
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post #1244 of 1299 (permalink) Old 08-11-2015, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZgl1800 View Post
okay, that is why I "appointed you" the thread Moderator
I still think it would be neat for him to chronicle his own efforts in a separate thread.
Just keep it linked to this one, and this thread to his thread also.
i agree, the main, important, relevant, fresh current info goes here, rather than a messy hard to read, everything for everyone deal

anything big time that may come from another thread can easily be summarized here,

too much stuff going on in this one

i'm not clear if a manifold or more specifically, an ideal runners setup has been identified to go with this (empi) setup?

i remember cm85 talking about someone else building him manifolds (pretty sure one welded piece, maybe stainless steel) that required a high degree of skill to make, but, i think this thread is based on what westgl went with

are there other threads to look at where someone has gone with this setup, from start to finish?

not for this thread but, can't say i've seen or read of 32/36 success stories, and i mean humming with no issues in a quick read from a-z, any links?

not much beats current easy to read proven results from others with pix, vids, updates etc

it would also be good to have one post/thread that covers all parts required and where to get, helps deal with important basics that otherwise, are repeated over and over again, all over the place

someone able to edit/maintain the first post could keep it up to date with any new developments, then very important info and basics required are in one place, one click away for anyone

last question, what engine(s) is this setup and thread intended for? i'll assume stock, pretty sure i remember westgl having done this on 1100,

edit - ok, title sez GL1000/1100/1200 Single Carb Conversion 2 Barrel 32DFT Progressive Runs Excellent

has this worked on all 3?
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82, going over it

had a hog in there for a bit but basically,
back in the saddle after a ~ 24 year break,
at the time, had an oncoming made a left turn deal

Last edited by pdbro; 08-11-2015 at 03:13 PM.
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post #1245 of 1299 (permalink) Old 08-13-2015, 12:58 PM
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Video?
You want video?
This is Tom's Motorcraft 740 carburetor described in this thread on my heated manifold just the way he sent it to me.
All I did was tune it.
All of his carburetors are calibrated the same way.
He tells everyone to heat their manifolds for a reason.
This bike runs fantastic as a result.

Too bad I couldn't really open it up.
...more to come.

Ya'll still think this carburetor of Tom's needs to be recalibrated after you get it because of what others refuse to do elsewhere?
Better heat your manifold pdbro. You'll have all of the same drivibility and tuning problems that are prevelant on all of the other conversions elsewhere if you don't.

My 1050 RPM idle is clear at the end of the video due to applying heat to my manifold.
How am I going to get that 1050 idle at the beginning of the video when the engine was at ambient temperature? If you can answer that different than I, then you've a puzzle (of your own) for the rest of us that has been solved.

https://youtu.be/KsGhd5fa6NQ
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post #1246 of 1299 (permalink) Old 08-13-2015, 01:49 PM
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Steve, I watched that all the way through.
A very impressive, smooth operation from the induction system.
And a rock solid idle as you noted above.

I also watched the next video on a '77 that is just pretty awesome also.
A car dealer manager picked it up and kept it for himself.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bby16uumMAI

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post #1247 of 1299 (permalink) Old 08-13-2015, 02:35 PM
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Thanks, it does work great. That 16" Lester lets it rev really well on the highway around here. If I run a Comstar or a Spoke wheel, I get too much speed going. I've been trying to finish-up what I'm finding with the valvetrain. Those factory inner springs don't hold up at all. I break them regularly sustaining the RPM's that I do. I've some in the old engine that I think I'm going to settle on.

The only weak area on a factory engine appears to be those valve springs. All else has held up so far with the exception of the v/springs.

I see the bike as High Performance.
Any bike that can hold RPM like this one does is high performance in my book.

As a side; ..the DCD 28/36 I have for it gives a noticeably different experience compared to the DFT32/M740 of Tom Langdon.
Tom's carb works as described and seen in the video though, so no worries of my sidenote. I do see others trying to convert their DFT's into a makeshift DCD. It's unfortunate that the venturi's are fixed. Modifying the fixed venturi's is not the answer ...even if actually accomplished.

I would suggest to any prospective High Performance Conversioneers interested in a top-level conversion of their bikes engine to consider the actual expenses invovlved.

The conversion in this thread works as described for the purpose intended.
Most don't realize that us Conversioneers are really searching for higher performance. Higher Performance don't come cheap...

I seriously doubt anyone is willing to get off of which springs you've chosen, would 'ya?
...I didn't think so...
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post #1248 of 1299 (permalink) Old 08-13-2015, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Why you need to heat your intake manifold
new related topic here
https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/...ml#post4153530

one more..
what is the best, easiest intake runners setup with the westgl scc? ..that includes heat

https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/162-altered-induction/578690-what-best-easiest-intake-runners-setup-westgl-scc.html#post4153762
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82, going over it

had a hog in there for a bit but basically,
back in the saddle after a ~ 24 year break,
at the time, had an oncoming made a left turn deal

Last edited by pdbro; 08-13-2015 at 06:56 PM.
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post #1249 of 1299 (permalink) Old 08-15-2015, 01:24 PM
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Again, heat can be added later.

This thread provides for a good, basic conversion that keeps a bike reliably ridden day-in and day-out.

A decently constructed manifold using the Empi plenum with Tom's Motorcraft 740 is a good start for anyone.
That's what this thread offers; a good base conversion.

Performance can be tailored once the basic conversion is assembled and working correctly, meaning; as near a steady idle without heat as possible. Nothing is really definitive as to what a near-steady idle is.
Aside from my own effort of pretty consistent duplications, all manifolds will have variations relating to each other exactly, even my own duplicates.

Recalibrating the carburetor is not necessary at all.
Applying liquid coolant to the plenum floor is necessary to idealize the efficiency of the calibration it has as shipped.

In selecting a carburetor for use from the Weber formula's for the engine I use, the DFT32 has a suggested starting point in calibration for the dynamics of my engine nearly exact to what Tom Langdon has in his Motorcraft 740's.
I verified the calibration through use of my DCD 28/36.
The actual calibration of Tom's M740 falls within the window of calibrated parts to use for a initial calibration on a GL1000.

...the calculated calibration assumes the use of a heated manifold, as the carburetor is designed for use on a induction system using a heated plenum space beneath the carburetor.

This is a given and not practiced by most.

The carburetor is calibrated for a heated system but works very well otherwise. It works extremely well for what we're doing here with it heated or not.
Heat is the bonus plan..

Not all heat is one in the same, so don't buy into that craziness.
Tom specifically states and mentions to each buyer of his carbs to have coolant in intimate contact with the floor of the plenum. Others can "discount" the advice of a retired GM induction designer that sells them their actual carburetor.
I chose to follow his advice to the letter of the word.
I chose to follow the advice of Weber as well in applying heat.
I chose to follow Chris Hodgson as well in applying heat.
I chose to follow Lancia in applying heat.
I chose to do what others have already done.

I even chose to do exactly what Honda themselves have already done in a single carburetor application.

What I've done is nothing new, but it does appear to be the strongest conversion going outside of one of Chris' because I follow direction well-enough.

Wait until I get to showing where my nitrous manifold comes into play here with this basic conversion.
5 shot from 2 stages.
You ain't seen nothing yet....
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post #1250 of 1299 (permalink) Old 08-15-2015, 04:37 PM
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If I take water off the bottom cap, (the cap with 2 screws just above the drain plug on a 1200) run it to one side of my manifold heater, where should I go with the outlet from the manifold back to the radiator?

Or else, where is the best place to take the water from, and return it to, the radiator?

I am probably getting way ahead of myself as I won't be working on the manifold until next week, but I do plan to do the water work as I go.
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